Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'carburettor'.
Found 9 results
-
Hello, Can someone tell me the manufacturer part number for the Mikuni carburettor for a 1996 Yamaha PW 80? Failing that, a picture of the inscriptions on the side of the carb. Would be interested if anyone has an original, OEM one for sale. Thanks, Alan -
Hi all, I am after a bit of advice on how to cure the running problems I’m having on my 2009 250 EXC-F The problem I am having is the bike is difficult to start once hot both off electric start and kick, spluttery when giving small blips off idle and will sometimes stall and also gets lots of pops, bangs and occasional flame on deceleration Mid range and top end performance feels good Carburettor is clean and currently set to stock factory settings and I have also tried a taffmeisters jetting kit with not much effect I get very little response from the fuel screw and the bike will continue to idle when all the way in and revs don’t seem to increase when backing the screw out incrementally to 2.5 turns out Valve clearances have been checked and are in spec Leak down test shows less than 10% leakage Air filter is clean along with new CR9EIX plug Any advice would be much appreciated Cheers Adam
-
-
Hey everyone, it seems I've done a full circle from one of my older posts, I now have my idle screw stuck in my carburettor, When I was putting it in it didn't want to go all the way in and didn't get to the point where it was making my bike idle, so I put it in as far as I could using pliers on the outside of the screw and I tried to swap it out for a new one and couldn't remove it using the same method. I have just tried using a screw extractor and it's stuck in there so tight that it was just drilling into the screw. Any ideas on how to remove it would be greatly appreciated, cheers
-
I have an idle issue I just can't seem to solve after having the carby apart several times. I finally gave in and orders an O-ring set for the middle of the carby but am having an issue getting th body separated on account of the epoxy joining it together and I am worried I might crack of break something if I use too much force. I've removed the 4 screws. Does any have any tips for separating the halves on the carb body?
-
I have just done a top end rebuild on my Yz250f as I bought the bike as a non runner and the bore needed replating, but when I first started it it ran like a bag of nails, checked jets in carb and they where a 205, and a 45. I changed these for standard sized jets and now it runs much better but after about 20 seconds of the bike idling the exhaust header pipe glows red. Is this normal or do I need to adjust the jetting? Thanks
-
Hello Riders, I’ve a 2006 DRZ 400s, recently got a new top end, carb done, new stator coil and battery. The bike runs smooth in city, but I took it to Big Bear (CA) trails and on inclines and altitude the bike started stalling. Once stalled it wouldn’t start easy, after a few kicks in could get it running but it would kinda start dying which made me rev it more. I increased the idling and the fuel mix to make it rich but problem wasn’t fixed. Surprisingly when I can to staging area at sea level the bike was perfect, button start and responsive. Fellow riders were of the opinion it’s the float valve but it’s all conjectures. Any ideas if you’ve faced similar situation? And what could be the root cause? Thanks and stay safe! Sekhon
-
Hi people, My bike (2009 Husqvarna wr250) has been running like a dog lately. It won't hit band when its cold and it's just generally not running like it should. I took my reeds out and there is a slight light gap between some of them, roughly .07mm gap. It's not a huge gap but I'm not sure if there's meant to be a tolerance of some sort as it does not state such a thing in the workshop manual. From what I know reeds should be dead flat with no light gap at all. However, I will be replacing them just in case. Some people who I have spoken to have advised making sure thet the carburettor jetting is set to standard. I have the Husqvarna workshop manual and have found the "standard jetting". Problem is it's just a whole heap of numbers and codes so I have literally no idea what it means. The only thing I understand on it is that the pilot jet should be set on the second slot which it already is. I was hoping someone on here could make sense of it. I have attached images of the husqvarna manual jetting information. Thanks for the help in advance -Ryan
-
After doing the basic mods to the ttr 230 (changing the main jet to a 130 and pilot jet to a 38, removing silencer in exhaust and the air box mod) the bike now does not want to start. I bottomed out the fuel mixture screw and took it back 1.5 full turns and it will not start. The bike was working fine before the mods. What have I done wrong? EDIT: I’ve adjusted now so it’s 1 turn rather than 1.5 and it starts now, but when I rev it a bit, it cuts out. I then immediately stop revving it and it returns to idle and then idles normally. Any help is greatly appreciated.
