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Found 27 results

  1. hickskateboarder

    2004 EXC to SX Applicable Years

    hey guys, Recently acquired a 2004 KTM 250 EXC. I'm looking for more power, better response. I've searched, but can't find an answer. What year heads and CDIs from 250SXs will fit my 2004 250 EXC? thanks for the knowledge.
  2. DarrellH3

    2008 YZ250f Weak Spark

    The bike has spark at the plug when grounded on the engine but not much. I have a wr250f so I compared the two. The wr has much more, bright blue spark, yz - you can barley see the spark. I switched plugs and coils between the two bikes, same result. The bike will start and run for 30-60 seconds and then die. If you crack the throttle it dies. I have checked the ohms from the stator. It all checks out with my multi meter to be within spec. I have check all connections, disconnected the kill switch. Nothing makes any difference. I have researched and read every article. Before I start buying parts and switching them out I'm open for suggestions. When the bike quit and we got it hope, I noticed that there was a hole on the radiator hose and there was no water in the bike. I figured it had run hot and melted the piston. I checked the valves. They were spot on. Pulled the top end off. The piston and cylinder looked okay. The oil rings showed wear so I put in a new piston and rings hoping. When I got it back together it was still the same. You can get it to start after several kicks but not for long. Could the heat have caused something to happen in the electrical system? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. From all I have read the cdi rarely goes out on these bikes. Thanks, Darrell
  3. Hi all, I have a 1993 XL600R which has a snag or maybe 2. The engine has recently been fully rebuilt, but the problem existed beforehand and was not the reason for the rebuild. I mention this so that we can discount any mechanical issues. Fault symptom#1, The bike will start and run no problems whether hot or cold. It performs really quite well apart from a couple of issues. I have noticed that if I really snap the throttle open quickly, the engine will bog momentarily, (and would probably die if I didn't close the throttle), so for example if I was riding along in 1st or 2nd and wanted to get the front wheel up to pop it over a log or something, unless the bike was up at mid range RPM, the engine will falter and die, and I have to close the throttle and then open it more progressively. It will even hesitate at mid range revs, but not significantly. Not much use off road! Carbs have also been fully rebuilt and jets sorted etc. It will also do this with the choke on, so I don't think it is a lean cut or carb problem, also doing a plug chop and the plug is a perfect colour. I'm thinking ignition and not enough advance? Fault symptom #2, The bike doesn't like revving out in top gear, although sometimes it will! It will hesitate and I have to back off the throttle and maybe then I can get it to rev out. However sometimes it just revs cleanly right through... I have measured the stator resistance and that is within 80 ohms of where it should be. The pulse generator on the other hand is down at 380 Ohms cold, and 450 hot, the Honda book says it should be 510 - 570 but doesn't say hot or cold. Is mine showing too much of a difference? I have no way of testing the CDI box and it is an early one with the circular plug. How many £££ to replace it :-/ Anyone shed any light on the problem? Thanks in advance, Mark.
  4. I recently rebuilt a 2001 CR250. It ran when I bought it but it had a crack in the left side of the crank case near the flywheel cover, I'm guessing oil got in when I ran it (like an idiot), and it bogged down and shut off on me after 15 minutes of riding and wouldn't start back up. I since replaced the left side crank case, painted the frame, and put her back together. I did a spark test and got no spark. Forgot to sand down some grounding spots so I did that. Didn't want to take the whole motor out so I sanded as best as I could between engine and engine mounts. Still got nothing. I assumed from my research it was the CDI. Bought an aftermarket HPI CDI box. Still nothing. Got an electrosport stator that came with the wiring harness and pick up coil, still nothing. Got a new kill switch and ignition coil. STILL nothing. Put an extra ground harness from a bolt on the crankcase to a sanded spot on the frame.. annnd nothing.. Anyone have any suggestions? I used a multimeter (when I had access to one) on the old components, they seemed to read just fine.. Is it even worth my time getting my hands on another multimeter to test an all brand new electrical system? Desperate here and trying to avoid taking her to the shop someone please help!!
  5. Diogo Silva

    250 EXC ‘06 upgrades

    Hello u guys I have to do a full service on my 2006 250 exc, it’s an eu model. I have a big big scratch on the cylinder, and I don’t want to reuse it. i’ve seen some things that I can do with it One of my wishlists it’s a 300 upgrade, and I need to know what do I need to change to a 300 convertion, and if you can tell me which other upgrades I can do with it, from newer models, like an electric starter, mapping, and other stuff, just because I don’t know if the parts of the newer models like a 2011/12/13 cylinder fits my engine. please let me know if you can help
  6. nick98065

    Chinese frame

    hey all, i recently purchased a cheap Chinese 110 frame from a guy for 80 bucks without knowing the brand and was thinking it would be perfect for a motor swap seeing i had an old xr70 motor my friend gave me when he swapped it out for a 125, the motor came out of a 99 or 2000 xr70 and only has 2 connectors coming from the stator while the previous motor had 4 I've looked online for a replacement and am having a hard time finding a replacement harness with only 2 connectors for the bike has anyone ran into this same problem? I've never ran into this problem when swapping motors but I've never swapped an older name brand motor into a Chinese frame. any suggestions? id rather avoid splicing wires because i would have no clue what i would be doing lmao
  7. So i have a 2009 kx450f with efi and I'm trying to hook up lights and turn signals and all of that good stuff to make it street legal. I know I need to tap into the bikes power supply to power all of this but I don't know where that would be. Should I go through the cdi or the efi and if so where would that be.
  8. Hi all, Will from Melbourne in AUS and I am pleased to finally join ThumperTalk. I'm 9 months into a custom build transplanting an '81 XR500R into a '81 CB250RS and I'd like some advice. I'll start with my question which is a fairly simple one, and then follow up with an answer to some anticipated questions which might help understand what my issue is and what may be causing it. MY QUESTION: Does the CDI box or CDI black box igniter (shindengan) from the CB250 run the XR500? or put in a different way, does the xr500 motor need its original cdi box (which is a round metal box) compared to the rectangular rubber one off the 250, in order to fire? Thanks in advance, Will -break- MY PROBLEM: I can't get the XR500 started, even though it has just had a full-rebuild inc. bore/piston/valves/hydroblast, spark, good fuel, carb-kit, and it was built using torque wrench and some precision around building it which is why I'm surprised it didn't fire straight away. ANSWERS to potential Questions are; 1) What has been blended together between the two bikes? 2) Why on earth am I building a cbxr500rs...? 3) More depth around the issue please? 1) What has been blended together between the two bikes? First off, I used the cb250 wiring loom because it was complete and ready to run the lights which the xr doesn't have. The cb250 & xr500 motors share side covers, and some other parts. Because I want a lighting system and given the XR doesn't have an alternator or wiring for a lighting system, I used the alternator from the 250 which bolted straight into the 500 replacing its original magneto. The Alternator from the 250 is also a bit lighter so it may improve performance. I used the side cover and wiring from the 250 on the same Alternator side for 2 reasons: i) because it was in better condition and, ii) had the wiring plug to go straight into the loom from the 250 as well. A perfect match so it seemed. On the right side, given I had just replaced the pulse-generator wire from the 250 before it died, which cost $100 bucks, and the side cover was once again in better condition (and matched the 500), I used 250 right side cover and its pulse generator on the xr500 which also means it can plug straight into the loom as the xr500 motor had no plug on the end which saved me mucking around. Motor/Running Gear: cb frame & front Yend, xr motor, xr carb, xr rear-wheel to retain ratios, 2 into 1 exhaust from the xr500 which has been custom modified to be 2 into 1 into 4 under the seat! (for looks mostly, although careful attention to pipe diameter taken to retain back pressure and exhaust velocity). The XR500 motor has a new 10.5:1 piston, stage 1 bore to 89.25mm, valve-grind/resit/lap and hydroblast, all new other parts plug/gaskets/oil/seals/carbkit etc etc, xr500 sprocket, weld another row of bars above the frame to accomodate the carb and seat, custom fab on frame/seat etc to accommodate. May make an airbox for it if I think its required. Wiring: cb250 Loom (xr had none), lights etc from the cb250, Regulator Rectifier from the 250 (of course because it is designed for the power of the alternator), but I used the Coil from the 500 motor which is smaller, as the bigger one from 250's was stuffed, Fuses from the 250. *However, I used the CDI box off the 250 (not the 500) because it could plug into the loom, and this is where my question lies? 2) Why on earth am I building a cbxr500rs...? Well, I'm sentimentally attached to the cb250 which I built as a learning project 5 years ago, and I read the xr500 motor fits in the frame and saw someone in the UK which transplanted it I was pretty intrigued. When the cb250 finally died it was a perfect opportunity to hunt for a donor bike and put the xr500 motor in, and also a perfect opportunity to do any modifications/upgrades and servicing to the cb bike which I had originally built on the cheap and now happy to sink money in it. 3) More depth around the firing issue please? It has spark, but won't fire and start even though it seems it really really wants to. Given a fair amount of precision went into building the motor I'm surprised it didn't fire in the first couple of kicks and I've since spent a bit of time trying to get it started to no effect. I'm tempted to check ignition timing using one of those lights, although the one I have is not designed for bikes but cars instead and is a pain the ass to get rigged up!
  9. My 2004 klx 125 flooded the bottom and with gas so I went and rebuilt the petcock and carburetor with new float assembly etc. when I put it back together and tried to drive it sometimes the bike would have fire and sometimes it would not. When it would fire and run after a minute it started to choke out and die like something with erratic spark. If the RPMs were kept high enough it will still run but very badly and I attribute that due to the amount of rotations being a enough to keep the engine running even though it is skipping some timing spark. Sometimes even cold it has no fire. When it does it runs like a brand new bike. It decides this completely at random and is definitely spark related, it backfires occasionally. All adjustments are setup properly. Something is failing. After the crankcase was flooded with gas and it ran for a little while before I noticed it coming out the crankcase vent tube into the airbox ......a mixture of gas and Oil until the entire bottom end was full. My question is whether or not running gas through the oil could have shorted the stator or pick up?? I know it's more likely that it overheated from lack of lubrication and one of the components were too hot, but what's the chances of it shorting out? I figure it's not a CDI since it comes and goes and a CDI will basically die and never come back. I'm trying to figure out what it is because it's an intermittent problem and it's making it harder to troubleshoot. When I have spark everything is correct when I do not have spark sometimes I get a good reading from everything and sometimes I don't get a reading at all
  10. Hey all, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what voltage the white signal wire operates at going into the coil pack? Is it a low voltage 12V line, or is the coil capacitor inside the CDI making the white wire a high voltage line? Or is it just a relay switch line? I'm getting curious reading from my oscilloscope (sadly I never took a signal sample so I can't show you, I can get that this weekend), but I was getting 0.4V AC on the spark pulses... which was confusing since I was expecting 12V AC. Maybe my cheap scope it just retarded? I'm wondering how it should read? The white wire I'm referring to plugs into the spade connector on the pack.. like in image. Thanks for any help!
  11. mauleyG

    2002 Honda CR125 STATOR!

    Hey guys, I’m in the process of building a 02cr125 from the ground up. Have just about all the parts now, thing is I can’t find a stator to save my life(build). I ordered one off ebay(regulator rectifier) and it came w/o a stator plate. I ordered a flywheel off eBay as well. Both of which, I don’t really, 100% know if they are the correct item. My question is, does anyone know where I can find a stator/flywheel assem. for a 2002 CR125 complete? Does ANY other years interchange? I know according to part numbers on oem-cycle, the 02 is the only year listed for compatibility. I emailed Ricky stator but they didn’t have one for 2002. Can I use a 05-07 assembly? I’m not using it for headlights, just to get the bike started. Many help would be great. I’m new to bikes and am trying to feel my way. Thanks
  12. Jamie Surdyka

    2013 RMZ 250F NO SPARK

    I was trail riding, possibly some puddles deep enough to soak all electronics.. it died - could not get it started.. no spark! I tried to test all electrical components but i am without service manual ... and do not know specific SPECS. I def. dont want to spend $500 on new CDI box - if it might not be that.. so What sort of readings should i be getting for the coil ?? and also the rectifier and the stater and anything else i need to test ?? Youtube is not really helpful. :/ Can anyone point me in the right direction? or does someone have a Service Manuel they would be willing to email or show me a link? thank you in advance!!! I JUST WANNA RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ESMX786@gmail.com
  13. Tnewsome525

    YZ125 cdi problems?

    I have a 2006 YZ125 that I bought new back in 06, I have went through the whole bike recently and everything is in good shape. Checked all the electrical system and it is up to spec. cleaned the carb spotless inside and out. Stock jetting always worked fine where I live. So for about 4 years now I haven’t ridden the bike but a few times and now I noticed that the bike isn’t running right when you snap the throttle it hesitates too long and just doesn’t have the throttle response it had before. Also when I looked at the head it was pitted some from detonation. I have read in here that a few people have had cdi trouble on the YZ125 and 250, if you have can you share your expirence of a bad cdi with me? I’m hesitant about buying one cause you can’t return electronics even if they are faulty also if anybody has a cdi box 2005-18 they would sell let me know, thanks
  14. Animalreedy

    2008 wr 450 no spark

    I got a 2008 wr450 and I lost spark so I checked the Cdi and it has 12volts goin in and the 4.6 volts comin out so does that mean the Cdi is bad?
  15. Hi guys ! My bike is a 2003 DRZ 400 S. I'm looking for a wiring harness for that bike. That seems quite simple... but : I first bought a 2003 DRZ 400 E (electric start) harness from a US seller on eBay, but unfortunately the small harness CDI plug doesn't fit my CDI unit (2 female connectors on the harness, 4 male connectors on my CDI unit). I thought it was because the E model harness does not fit the S model, or because the US bike model harness does not fit a european model. So... I bought a DRZ 400 S harness, from an Italian seller this time... and this harness... still doesn't fit... Same small CDI plug problem I watched DRZ 400 CDI units pictures on the internet, and it seems that all CDI units I saw have 4 connectors on the small plug... so I'm pretty lost. Maybe it would be easier for me to by a new CDI unit but... from what bike ??? So guys, do you know why there is different types of CDI small plugs... and different wiring harness CDI plugs ? Thanks a lot ! JP.
  16. Hey TT, Just trying to revive a tired old 85'XL600r. Having a first start issue after 10 years of sitting? Bike kicks and has good compression, adjusted valves at TDC, replaces the stater to a Ricky Stator, new battery fully charged, getting a strong spark off the plug to the engine ground, shot some starting fluid and kicked, kicked, kicked. Nothing. If a CDI is bad will I be still getting a spark that maybe is just hitting at the wrong time? Ordered a new CDI but waiting for it. Going to try a new plug today, just because they are only 2 bucks. Seems like good gas, compression, and spark I should get something? On another note: I removed all the smog stuff -will that affect the performance or timing?
  17. Hi folks. Just FYI, I did do a search on this subject and found nothing so decided to post the question. I have two of these 1985 250 XR's and both have the same problem...no spark. I am wondering if anyone knows the correct ohm readings for the alternator/stator test, the pulse generator coil test, cdi test and coil test and more importantly, the procedures to test them? I have swapped out all the parts (except the pulse coils) between the two bikes and still nothing. The stators "look" good. I am leaning towards it being the pulse coils on both bikes but what are the odd's? Tried Google with no luck on any worthwhile information. Thanks for any help. Sure would hate to part them out on fleabay but may need to. Pulse coils are hard to find and ain't cheap!!
  18. riverside21

    Arrowhead IHA6017 cdi box

    Has anybody purchased/used one of these Arrowhead IHA6017 cdi boxes?? I tried 2 different ones of these on a 1987 and 1994 XR200R, and the bikes won't even start. Bikes just pop and backfire, had to put the old cdi's back on. I noticed when I ordered the boxes they stated "advance ignition curves" in the specs. The box is also much bigger than the stocker and won't fit in the rubber mount. I didn't mess with moving around the timing to try and get these to work....I just sent them back.
  19. luke8500

    1994 YZ125 CDI

    Hi all, I have a 1994 yz125 that has a problem thats got me stumped. It went from running great to only hitting powerband some of the time and just gargling and bogging the rest of the time and now it will only run for 5 minutes at best before it dies like someone hit the kill switch and like it lost spark. Then it wont start back up till it sits for a few minutes then itll only run for a few min again. The engine was rebuilt over winter and still starts cold in a few kicks. Ive replaced the coil and tried unplugging the kill switch. The carb was super cleaned and completely rebuilt with new parts. Ive tried many new spark plugs also. Im thinking its either the stator or the cdi box. The only cdis i could find for that bike were used and on ebay and way too expensive. My question is could i take a cdi off a different year and modify the wires and plugs to fit or do i have to find a cdi box from a 1994. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated Thanks Luke
  20. jbenn43457

    XR250 no sparks

    My XR250 was working fine, then would not start. No spark. I took the coil to be tested, no reading on secondary coil. I got a new coil, lead plug cap. On testing, I thought I got sparks at the first attempt with the ht lead to ground, but now there is nothing. I converted the bike to have a dc regulator rectifier and a battery to run the lights and horn etc, and this has been fine for a year or so. I never messed with the ignition side of the wiring, so the bike still started without needing the dc circuit switched on. any ideas really appreciated
  21. Josh the squash

    Yz125 bogs

    Okay, so I have a 2000 yz125 that I recently rebuilt the engine on. I bought the bike blown up and not running so I don't know how it used to run. After the rebuild I ran heat cycles and rode the bike and broke it in and it ran perfect once I started riding it hard it rad great for a day then it started bogging at about 3/4 throttle then once I got to full throttle it went away. The more I rode it the worse it got. To the point when I got it to full throttle it would just bog and almost felt like it was "skipping" or trying go go. It would cut in and out of going and boging really fast. Then I rode it down the road and eased on the throttle all the way to full and it didn't bog or cut out. I tried putting a leaner main jet in the carb and didn't do anything. Plus it's 20 degrees out here in Michigan so I wouldn't thing jetting is the problem. Maybe I didn't check the reeds good enough or something electrical. Also I took the tank off and the ignition coil was loose and about to fall off the bike and the spark plug looks cardboard brown. I tightened the bolts o the cool and thought that was the problem for sure but it wasn't. Put it all back together and still didn't work right. Also tried unplugging the kill switch. Need some help.
  22. Hey there! I'm new to Thumper talk as a member but have read many help topics over the years, time to bite the bullet and get on board! Well To start I'm not new to working on bikes, Ive always done all the basic work on my Yamaha's, 3 to be exact. YZ250F, WR450F and now a WR250F. I'm also an HVAC Tech by trade so the electrical trouble shooting experience helps. I just bought this 2002 WR250F and It only started once and ran for about 30 seconds, sounded good. After that it wouldn't start, it gave a few false burps but nothing. Popped a few times on third kick with out starting but I was guessing it was fuel I dumped in by opening the throttle. I got spark! To my knowledge, what i was told by seller and from what I've seen upon opening it up, it has a 290 big bore kit, new valves- (I checked clearenses, intake in spec .13, exhaust say's .17-.22 I have .23) Not sure if thats a determining factor?? It also has newer cams and a decompression cam. NOTE, I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH 290 BIG BORE KITS, JETTING REQUIERMENTS etc... This may be the entire issue.... I took my carb off my 2002 YZ250F and put it on this bike because I know it works. I wanted to try and get it going since the carburetor that came with the bike was in a thousand pieces when i bought it. (Parts needed and on order, waiting). There is not much difference but...??? So i guess this is where the rest comes in. I went through the entire electrical system and ohm'd out everything accept the CDI box. see pictures. I couldn't find anything in the manual as far as checking ohm's. ?? I would think it would say but I didn't see anything. So here I am, is it just the carburetor? I mean it did run, it started with out the choke on like second kick and ran for 30 sec hand off throttle! I kicked my brains out two separate days checking different things and nothing after that. Please help! HAHAHA! Thanks!!
  23. Dr.dualsport

    dr350 bad CDI?...

    Hey guys, The 1999 dr350se crapped out on me while riding a week ago and I don't see anything left to try other than to test my CDI. Now in the manual they give that table of values to measure with the Suzuki Pocket Tester and they say every other multi meter is useless for this purpose. Is that true?... Do I really need to take my whole bike in to a dealership just to test the CDI? I did the tests with a multi meter anyway and about half of the tests were outside the spec range, I just want to be sure my CDI is actually toast before buying a new one based on my test. The problem with the bike: At first I just noticed flooding, backfiring, hard starting, shaky idle etc... She would run fine right off the clutch but as soon as I hit 4000 rpm it would bog so bad the bike would basically die on me. If I could manage to push it past about 5.5k rmp the bike becomes rideable again, but there is still a noticeable studder. I pulled the airbox and carb, cleaned and oiled the air filter, gave the carb and jets a full overnight soak and then put a new viton gasket in the needle seat before I put it back on the bike. I got some low end power back in first and second gear but did nothing for the bog. After messing around with the carb for days, I am somewhat confident that the problem is not in there... Jetting was fine before, diaphragm is fine (tested both visually and by blowing air in the carb and seeing the slide lift) float height is fine. I raised the needle clip one position, did not help. I also pulled the cylinder head cover and checked the timing just to be thorough, it looked fine. Ignition coil tested fine as well. Spark plug is BLACK, its running super rich in the mid range. If I stick a hose down the plug hole and blow air to dry up the flooding in the cylinder I get about a quarter cup of gasoline to spray out, but it only happens when I try to ride the bike not when idling or sitting. Can a misfire cause flooding like this? It would make sense right? If I am trying to run in the mid range but the plug is only firing, lets say, every fourth ignition stroke, then all kinds of fuel would be collecting in the cylinder? Please let me know if I am on the right track with the CDI, I am open to any and all suggestions
  24. Hi Guys this is my first post. This is my go to forums for the DRZ SM. Well to get into it, I replaced a my stator that went out with a RM stator, I also replaced the RR at the same time cause you know why not do both. I reinstalled everything exactly how it was taken out. It was all plug and play. After starting the bike that night it idled just fine, gave it a few revs... all was good!! Next day I decide to ride it around the block to do a road test. Went down the block thought all was good drove maybe 100 ft. turn corner give it gas and ..... POP!! headlight blows up bike shuts off smells like burning plastic. I push it back to my garage pull seat back off. I notice inline fuse was blown. I replace it start bike back up.. pop it blows instantly. I noticed smoke coming from large CDI plug. Pull it off sure enough the orange and white stripe wire is melting and hot as hell. I'm baffled. I am by no means a mechanic but I am decently inclined to do most jobs, I hate electrical. Can anyone tell me where I may have gone wrong...? I can upload pictures for anyone. I really need the bike up and running for MLK 2018 Miami!!
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