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Found 34 results

  1. hey guys, Recently acquired a 2004 KTM 250 EXC. I'm looking for more power, better response. I've searched, but can't find an answer. What year heads and CDIs from 250SXs will fit my 2004 250 EXC? thanks for the knowledge.
  2. The bike has spark at the plug when grounded on the engine but not much. I have a wr250f so I compared the two. The wr has much more, bright blue spark, yz - you can barley see the spark. I switched plugs and coils between the two bikes, same result. The bike will start and run for 30-60 seconds and then die. If you crack the throttle it dies. I have checked the ohms from the stator. It all checks out with my multi meter to be within spec. I have check all connections, disconnected the kill switch. Nothing makes any difference. I have researched and read every article. Before I start buying parts and switching them out I'm open for suggestions. When the bike quit and we got it hope, I noticed that there was a hole on the radiator hose and there was no water in the bike. I figured it had run hot and melted the piston. I checked the valves. They were spot on. Pulled the top end off. The piston and cylinder looked okay. The oil rings showed wear so I put in a new piston and rings hoping. When I got it back together it was still the same. You can get it to start after several kicks but not for long. Could the heat have caused something to happen in the electrical system? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. From all I have read the cdi rarely goes out on these bikes. Thanks, Darrell
  3. I have a KX125 with a YZ engine, and when I bought it the ignition system worked, but it didn’t have a kill switch. I went in and took off all the tape, and this is where I am. I’ve labeled a few things, I’m not sure if what I labeled as the ground wire IS the ground wire, but there is also a wire that looks like it was cut. It’s still connected to the cdi box connect though. Any help to find where I should wire the kill switch would be greatly appreciated. If you need any more pictures or information just ask! Thanks 🙂
  4. Hello u guys I have to do a full service on my 2006 250 exc, it’s an eu model. I have a big big scratch on the cylinder, and I don’t want to reuse it. i’ve seen some things that I can do with it One of my wishlists it’s a 300 upgrade, and I need to know what do I need to change to a 300 convertion, and if you can tell me which other upgrades I can do with it, from newer models, like an electric starter, mapping, and other stuff, just because I don’t know if the parts of the newer models like a 2011/12/13 cylinder fits my engine. please let me know if you can help
  5. hey all, i recently purchased a cheap Chinese 110 frame from a guy for 80 bucks without knowing the brand and was thinking it would be perfect for a motor swap seeing i had an old xr70 motor my friend gave me when he swapped it out for a 125, the motor came out of a 99 or 2000 xr70 and only has 2 connectors coming from the stator while the previous motor had 4 I've looked online for a replacement and am having a hard time finding a replacement harness with only 2 connectors for the bike has anyone ran into this same problem? I've never ran into this problem when swapping motors but I've never swapped an older name brand motor into a Chinese frame. any suggestions? id rather avoid splicing wires because i would have no clue what i would be doing lmao
  6. Hi all, I have a 1993 XL600R which has a snag or maybe 2. The engine has recently been fully rebuilt, but the problem existed beforehand and was not the reason for the rebuild. I mention this so that we can discount any mechanical issues. Fault symptom#1, The bike will start and run no problems whether hot or cold. It performs really quite well apart from a couple of issues. I have noticed that if I really snap the throttle open quickly, the engine will bog momentarily, (and would probably die if I didn't close the throttle), so for example if I was riding along in 1st or 2nd and wanted to get the front wheel up to pop it over a log or something, unless the bike was up at mid range RPM, the engine will falter and die, and I have to close the throttle and then open it more progressively. It will even hesitate at mid range revs, but not significantly. Not much use off road! Carbs have also been fully rebuilt and jets sorted etc. It will also do this with the choke on, so I don't think it is a lean cut or carb problem, also doing a plug chop and the plug is a perfect colour. I'm thinking ignition and not enough advance? Fault symptom #2, The bike doesn't like revving out in top gear, although sometimes it will! It will hesitate and I have to back off the throttle and maybe then I can get it to rev out. However sometimes it just revs cleanly right through... I have measured the stator resistance and that is within 80 ohms of where it should be. The pulse generator on the other hand is down at 380 Ohms cold, and 450 hot, the Honda book says it should be 510 - 570 but doesn't say hot or cold. Is mine showing too much of a difference? I have no way of testing the CDI box and it is an early one with the circular plug. How many £££ to replace it :-/ Anyone shed any light on the problem? Thanks in advance, Mark.
  7. I recently rebuilt a 2001 CR250. It ran when I bought it but it had a crack in the left side of the crank case near the flywheel cover, I'm guessing oil got in when I ran it (like an idiot), and it bogged down and shut off on me after 15 minutes of riding and wouldn't start back up. I since replaced the left side crank case, painted the frame, and put her back together. I did a spark test and got no spark. Forgot to sand down some grounding spots so I did that. Didn't want to take the whole motor out so I sanded as best as I could between engine and engine mounts. Still got nothing. I assumed from my research it was the CDI. Bought an aftermarket HPI CDI box. Still nothing. Got an electrosport stator that came with the wiring harness and pick up coil, still nothing. Got a new kill switch and ignition coil. STILL nothing. Put an extra ground harness from a bolt on the crankcase to a sanded spot on the frame.. annnd nothing.. Anyone have any suggestions? I used a multimeter (when I had access to one) on the old components, they seemed to read just fine.. Is it even worth my time getting my hands on another multimeter to test an all brand new electrical system? Desperate here and trying to avoid taking her to the shop someone please help!!
  8. I have a 2002 Ktm 125 sx here the stator keeps burning out on it, I first bought the bike with no spark and thought it was the cdi that was making it have no spark so I bought a cdi unit for it and the bike still had no spark so i bought a brand new stator, then it burnt out, I read online that the coil can back back too much current causing the stator to burn out so I then got a new coil for it and had to purchase a new stator ?and then tried them all together new cdi new stator new coil and YES the stator burnt out again ? does anyone know what to do from now I am debating to just take it to a shop ?
  9. Long time listener, first time caller here. I have a 1989 Honda NX250 that has a no-spark issue after idling for about 10-15 minutes, or sooner if the bike is ridden. I believe it first developed the issue in the summer of 2018, but it was inconsistent and I attributed it to flameout + flooding. The bike would usually start back up with no problem after no more than 30 minutes. Later into the 2018 season the problem was happening more and more often and taking longer to start afterwards. At this point I still thought it was a carb issue and, perhaps, flooding. Over the winter I pulled the carb to clean, inspect and set float height. I also checked compression, valve lash, cam chain and swapped in a new plug. All were up to spec and the bike has always run great, so it was at this point where I started thinking it was a spark issue. I have since confirmed that each time the bike dies it is also losing spark. I thought "ok, hmm, cdi is a common problem for this era of Honda" and, even though the stock CDI tested good, I decided to buy a new one (Ricks). But, of course, the problem has not gone away. I started going over everything with a multimeter (to no avail) and have since, one at a time and in order, replaced: -pulse generator (OEM) -cap and ignition coil (OEM) -stator (Rick's) I replaced the stator today and the problem persists as described. I am pulling my hair out from frustration. I'm guessing perhaps the rotor signal passing by the pickup may be losing magnetism, or there is a break somewhere in the harness that is getting resistance buildup after warmup. I've attached a wiring diagram image and one of the bike in question. Any positive input is appreciated, folks! Love the forum! Great update!
  10. so acquired a 2001 crf250 with everything but a bottom end. I was able to buy a 1999 motor for 500$ but got no spark and came to realize there was an extra plug. so I did some research and found out the cdi for a 99 with two plugs is different than the cdi for an 01 with just one. so is there a way to use the 99 ignition and harness with the 2001 cdi? it's around 800 dollars for the 2001 ignition which kinda sucks. or 200 for the cdi from a 99
  11. my question is if XT 600 43f 86 cdi work somehow in XT550 5Y1 83
  12. Hi all, Will from Melbourne in AUS and I am pleased to finally join ThumperTalk. I'm 9 months into a custom build transplanting an '81 XR500R into a '81 CB250RS and I'd like some advice. I'll start with my question which is a fairly simple one, and then follow up with an answer to some anticipated questions which might help understand what my issue is and what may be causing it. MY QUESTION: Does the CDI box or CDI black box igniter (shindengan) from the CB250 run the XR500? or put in a different way, does the xr500 motor need its original cdi box (which is a round metal box) compared to the rectangular rubber one off the 250, in order to fire? Thanks in advance, Will -break- MY PROBLEM: I can't get the XR500 started, even though it has just had a full-rebuild inc. bore/piston/valves/hydroblast, spark, good fuel, carb-kit, and it was built using torque wrench and some precision around building it which is why I'm surprised it didn't fire straight away. ANSWERS to potential Questions are; 1) What has been blended together between the two bikes? 2) Why on earth am I building a cbxr500rs...? 3) More depth around the issue please? 1) What has been blended together between the two bikes? First off, I used the cb250 wiring loom because it was complete and ready to run the lights which the xr doesn't have. The cb250 & xr500 motors share side covers, and some other parts. Because I want a lighting system and given the XR doesn't have an alternator or wiring for a lighting system, I used the alternator from the 250 which bolted straight into the 500 replacing its original magneto. The Alternator from the 250 is also a bit lighter so it may improve performance. I used the side cover and wiring from the 250 on the same Alternator side for 2 reasons: i) because it was in better condition and, ii) had the wiring plug to go straight into the loom from the 250 as well. A perfect match so it seemed. On the right side, given I had just replaced the pulse-generator wire from the 250 before it died, which cost $100 bucks, and the side cover was once again in better condition (and matched the 500), I used 250 right side cover and its pulse generator on the xr500 which also means it can plug straight into the loom as the xr500 motor had no plug on the end which saved me mucking around. Motor/Running Gear: cb frame & front Yend, xr motor, xr carb, xr rear-wheel to retain ratios, 2 into 1 exhaust from the xr500 which has been custom modified to be 2 into 1 into 4 under the seat! (for looks mostly, although careful attention to pipe diameter taken to retain back pressure and exhaust velocity). The XR500 motor has a new 10.5:1 piston, stage 1 bore to 89.25mm, valve-grind/resit/lap and hydroblast, all new other parts plug/gaskets/oil/seals/carbkit etc etc, xr500 sprocket, weld another row of bars above the frame to accomodate the carb and seat, custom fab on frame/seat etc to accommodate. May make an airbox for it if I think its required. Wiring: cb250 Loom (xr had none), lights etc from the cb250, Regulator Rectifier from the 250 (of course because it is designed for the power of the alternator), but I used the Coil from the 500 motor which is smaller, as the bigger one from 250's was stuffed, Fuses from the 250. *However, I used the CDI box off the 250 (not the 500) because it could plug into the loom, and this is where my question lies? 2) Why on earth am I building a cbxr500rs...? Well, I'm sentimentally attached to the cb250 which I built as a learning project 5 years ago, and I read the xr500 motor fits in the frame and saw someone in the UK which transplanted it I was pretty intrigued. When the cb250 finally died it was a perfect opportunity to hunt for a donor bike and put the xr500 motor in, and also a perfect opportunity to do any modifications/upgrades and servicing to the cb bike which I had originally built on the cheap and now happy to sink money in it. 3) More depth around the firing issue please? It has spark, but won't fire and start even though it seems it really really wants to. Given a fair amount of precision went into building the motor I'm surprised it didn't fire in the first couple of kicks and I've since spent a bit of time trying to get it started to no effect. I'm tempted to check ignition timing using one of those lights, although the one I have is not designed for bikes but cars instead and is a pain the ass to get rigged up!
  13. So i have a 2009 kx450f with efi and I'm trying to hook up lights and turn signals and all of that good stuff to make it street legal. I know I need to tap into the bikes power supply to power all of this but I don't know where that would be. Should I go through the cdi or the efi and if so where would that be.
  14. My 2004 klx 125 flooded the bottom and with gas so I went and rebuilt the petcock and carburetor with new float assembly etc. when I put it back together and tried to drive it sometimes the bike would have fire and sometimes it would not. When it would fire and run after a minute it started to choke out and die like something with erratic spark. If the RPMs were kept high enough it will still run but very badly and I attribute that due to the amount of rotations being a enough to keep the engine running even though it is skipping some timing spark. Sometimes even cold it has no fire. When it does it runs like a brand new bike. It decides this completely at random and is definitely spark related, it backfires occasionally. All adjustments are setup properly. Something is failing. After the crankcase was flooded with gas and it ran for a little while before I noticed it coming out the crankcase vent tube into the airbox ......a mixture of gas and Oil until the entire bottom end was full. My question is whether or not running gas through the oil could have shorted the stator or pick up?? I know it's more likely that it overheated from lack of lubrication and one of the components were too hot, but what's the chances of it shorting out? I figure it's not a CDI since it comes and goes and a CDI will basically die and never come back. I'm trying to figure out what it is because it's an intermittent problem and it's making it harder to troubleshoot. When I have spark everything is correct when I do not have spark sometimes I get a good reading from everything and sometimes I don't get a reading at all
  15. I was trail riding, possibly some puddles deep enough to soak all electronics.. it died - could not get it started.. no spark! I tried to test all electrical components but i am without service manual ... and do not know specific SPECS. I def. dont want to spend $500 on new CDI box - if it might not be that.. so What sort of readings should i be getting for the coil ?? and also the rectifier and the stater and anything else i need to test ?? Youtube is not really helpful. :/ Can anyone point me in the right direction? or does someone have a Service Manuel they would be willing to email or show me a link? thank you in advance!!! I JUST WANNA RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ESMX786@gmail.com
  16. Hey guys, I’m in the process of building a 02cr125 from the ground up. Have just about all the parts now, thing is I can’t find a stator to save my life(build). I ordered one off ebay(regulator rectifier) and it came w/o a stator plate. I ordered a flywheel off eBay as well. Both of which, I don’t really, 100% know if they are the correct item. My question is, does anyone know where I can find a stator/flywheel assem. for a 2002 CR125 complete? Does ANY other years interchange? I know according to part numbers on oem-cycle, the 02 is the only year listed for compatibility. I emailed Ricky stator but they didn’t have one for 2002. Can I use a 05-07 assembly? I’m not using it for headlights, just to get the bike started. Many help would be great. I’m new to bikes and am trying to feel my way. Thanks
  17. Hey all, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what voltage the white signal wire operates at going into the coil pack? Is it a low voltage 12V line, or is the coil capacitor inside the CDI making the white wire a high voltage line? Or is it just a relay switch line? I'm getting curious reading from my oscilloscope (sadly I never took a signal sample so I can't show you, I can get that this weekend), but I was getting 0.4V AC on the spark pulses... which was confusing since I was expecting 12V AC. Maybe my cheap scope it just retarded? I'm wondering how it should read? The white wire I'm referring to plugs into the spade connector on the pack.. like in image. Thanks for any help!
  18. I have a 2006 YZ125 that I bought new back in 06, I have went through the whole bike recently and everything is in good shape. Checked all the electrical system and it is up to spec. cleaned the carb spotless inside and out. Stock jetting always worked fine where I live. So for about 4 years now I haven’t ridden the bike but a few times and now I noticed that the bike isn’t running right when you snap the throttle it hesitates too long and just doesn’t have the throttle response it had before. Also when I looked at the head it was pitted some from detonation. I have read in here that a few people have had cdi trouble on the YZ125 and 250, if you have can you share your expirence of a bad cdi with me? I’m hesitant about buying one cause you can’t return electronics even if they are faulty also if anybody has a cdi box 2005-18 they would sell let me know, thanks
  19. Has anybody purchased/used one of these Arrowhead IHA6017 cdi boxes?? I tried 2 different ones of these on a 1987 and 1994 XR200R, and the bikes won't even start. Bikes just pop and backfire, had to put the old cdi's back on. I noticed when I ordered the boxes they stated "advance ignition curves" in the specs. The box is also much bigger than the stocker and won't fit in the rubber mount. I didn't mess with moving around the timing to try and get these to work....I just sent them back.
  20. I got a 2008 wr450 and I lost spark so I checked the Cdi and it has 12volts goin in and the 4.6 volts comin out so does that mean the Cdi is bad?
  21. Hi folks. Just FYI, I did do a search on this subject and found nothing so decided to post the question. I have two of these 1985 250 XR's and both have the same problem...no spark. I am wondering if anyone knows the correct ohm readings for the alternator/stator test, the pulse generator coil test, cdi test and coil test and more importantly, the procedures to test them? I have swapped out all the parts (except the pulse coils) between the two bikes and still nothing. The stators "look" good. I am leaning towards it being the pulse coils on both bikes but what are the odd's? Tried Google with no luck on any worthwhile information. Thanks for any help. Sure would hate to part them out on fleabay but may need to. Pulse coils are hard to find and ain't cheap!!
  22. Hi guys ! My bike is a 2003 DRZ 400 S. I'm looking for a wiring harness for that bike. That seems quite simple... but : I first bought a 2003 DRZ 400 E (electric start) harness from a US seller on eBay, but unfortunately the small harness CDI plug doesn't fit my CDI unit (2 female connectors on the harness, 4 male connectors on my CDI unit). I thought it was because the E model harness does not fit the S model, or because the US bike model harness does not fit a european model. So... I bought a DRZ 400 S harness, from an Italian seller this time... and this harness... still doesn't fit... Same small CDI plug problem I watched DRZ 400 CDI units pictures on the internet, and it seems that all CDI units I saw have 4 connectors on the small plug... so I'm pretty lost. Maybe it would be easier for me to by a new CDI unit but... from what bike ??? So guys, do you know why there is different types of CDI small plugs... and different wiring harness CDI plugs ? Thanks a lot ! JP.
  23. 2013 KTM 300 XC: Electrical Troubleshooting Advice badly needed for fairly new KTM owner who just reinstalled electric starter parts. WARNING! Long read and some Electrical knowledge required. Comment or PM with details please! Issue: INTERMITTENTLY not getting any ignition spark (wire or cap), but most times when moving the CDI/ECU box around I'm able to get spark again! But sometimes it goes out longer as if the CDI box was in some kinda protective mode. Background: bought bike without E-starter kit. It had a Baja Designs voltage regulator and stator mod for DC voltage (unknown to me during initial troubleshooting) to run lights I didn't get with bike. Installed E-starter and new battery but it wouldn't start with E-start on cold engine, only by kickstarter. But it would not produce more than 13.4 Volts with bike running. I even de-modded the stator back to OEM standard (AC v) and OEM voltage regulator. But not much improvement. Then I started having the no-spark issue, especially after E-start attempts, which I attributed to a combination of bad stator/pick-up coil and ignition coil since some of the readings were borderline off. I decided to get a new stator and voltage regulator and while at it new ignition coil. Installed all the new stuff and it cranked much stronger and even E-started it a couple times on a somewhat cold engine. Then it would lose spark again. I tested everything I could with a multimeter (ohms) and it passed the continuity tests as per the manual. However, I haven't found any data on troubleshooting the CDI box. I know I got continuity between pins 2 (ground, br) and 11 (pick-up coil/CPS, gn) in the CDI box. Not sure if CDI pin 11 should be grounded to pin 2 internally or if any other terminals should be grounded to each other in the CDI. All wiring harness wires have continuity and no shorts. I even moved them around while checking. Wiring harness connector to CDI was a little questionable cuz it slips out a little on one side but even while pressing it I'm still not getting spark at the ignition when cranking (intermittently). I'm leaning toward CDI box with a slight change it could be the connector. Thoughts? guidance? recommendations? New Parts: OEM stator, OEM voltage regulator, OEM ignition, Neuron starter, Shorai battery Used Parts: CDI/ECU box, bendix, wiring harness, starter relay Thanks AC
  24. Hey TT, Just trying to revive a tired old 85'XL600r. Having a first start issue after 10 years of sitting? Bike kicks and has good compression, adjusted valves at TDC, replaces the stater to a Ricky Stator, new battery fully charged, getting a strong spark off the plug to the engine ground, shot some starting fluid and kicked, kicked, kicked. Nothing. If a CDI is bad will I be still getting a spark that maybe is just hitting at the wrong time? Ordered a new CDI but waiting for it. Going to try a new plug today, just because they are only 2 bucks. Seems like good gas, compression, and spark I should get something? On another note: I removed all the smog stuff -will that affect the performance or timing?
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