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  1. I took a close look at the chain on my stock 2007 Honda CRF230F and found something strange. I'm thinking about breaking the chain to install a master link to make cleaning easier. Anyway here's a pic of a piece of rubber I picked out of one link. I'm guessing it's time to replace the chain even though the bike has very few miles on it. If so should I go with the stock chain (DID 520 X110 I believe) or something better. I don't do a lot of riding now but intend to start riding a lot more soon. Mostly easy trails and moderate speeds. No balls out racing mode. I'm too old old for that. 🙄
  2. Hello Do I need to elevate back tire to adjust y chain on my DRZ 400? I'm serious Also, Bike was biught second hand: chain is reaching limit BUT front and rear sprocket still look really good..looks can be deceiving I suppose. Is not changing the sprockets the stupidest thing I could do to a new chain? I think it is but I'm a child of generation WHY..... Thank you in advance
  3. Hello I am very new at dirt biking I just got a chain ordered it has a 122 links in it it's for a TTR 125l Yamaha 2007 I moved the back tire all the way to the front of the adjusters then I cut the chain to make it fit I have enough slack in it what I'm wondering is do I have to have 122 links in the chain for the bike to run well or is it okay to run the chain shorter since I moved the back tire closer to the front so my question is does it matter how many links are in a dirt bike chain???????????
  4. Okay so I had my thumpstar up for sale on gumtree and it sold fairly quick. The same day the person who bought it calls and said it’s stopped working and is falling apart, I was Nice enough to refund their money but am now stuck with a bike that has stripped and gone through 3 kickstarters in a month, I am embarrassed to even try and sell my bike again as I’m scared the same thing will happen again. In the bikes defence the kick starters were cheap Chinese crap ($10 from eBay) but my mechanic said even the bad ones should last at least a couple months. I now bought a more solid one hoping this problem will stop, the shaft itself is still in good condition so I don’t know why it’s doing this, could I be bolting it on wrong or are there any tips to make it less likely to strip? Also they came back and told me that the chain guide (roller) thing popped off, and it done it a couple times for me aswell, how can I get it to stay on the bloody bike!? Thanks for listening to my rant the
  5. Good Day, Can anyone recommend a replacement chain, and both front and rear sprocket to replace the OEM's? No hard riding done at all, half street and half dirt...just lazy rides on roads and trails. Brand names, etc. Thanks Chargerman
  6. Hi I've got myself a KXF250 2017 that I'm looking to change the gearing on, currently running 13/50 and the bikes got a huge hit of power off the bottom end and I'm looking to smooth out the power so I don't get that big hit all at once. I've been doing a bit of research and I'm thinking of dropping to a 48 rear, with only going down 2 teeth will this really make that much of a difference? I've also been toying with 14/48 to really try and smooth it out, what's people take on this? Long winded one but all advice is appreciated just can't seem to find answers to these questions anywhere Thanks
  7. I know this is a reach... Anyone happen to have step by step assembly pics of xl600r engine? I have the manual, but it's not always super clear. I've gotten this far with manual and my own experience, but I'm hitting a wall on this side of the engine. Total basket case. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
  8. Hi all, Looking at changing the chain & both sprockets on my 2002 200 exc. Currently running 14 f 42 r sprockets (this is what came with the bike) I ride green lanes with occasional easily ISH hill climbs and I was wondering if anyone would suggest a different gearing for the 200 exc? Cheers
  9. I've been riding my 2002 400s with stock 15/44 gearing for a while now. Unfortunately I find myself having to do a lot more highway than I would like to, to get to where I want to ride the dirt. I'm building the bike into a light adventure bike and I don't ride any super technical trails (I don't want to completely lose that ability though) but I do like some so-cal mountain trails. I anticipate a lot more highway miles in the future in order to reach the trails I'd like to ride, also meaning I'll be adding a little weight, camping gear etc.( I am a 150lb rider) I saw a 43t rear sprocket available, would 15/43 make any noticeable difference in my highway rpms (65-75) and how much damage would it do to my abilities on the trail. I would also like to know the same for 15/41 and if anyone can let me know what changes in chain would need to be made. This will be my first time experimenting with a gearing change on any bike that I have owned. Bike has 3/3 mod done, stock exhaust and a JD Jet Kit.
  10. Hello, I am looking to replace my chain and sprockets. I had no issue on learning what I need and deciding my parts for the front and rear sprocket. But the chain, seems to be an issue. I read in the handbook that I need to use the same as stock (DID 520MXV T-Ring). But I can’t seem to find that anywhere. If someone could link me or guide me to the best chain for my 2005 CRF250X, that would be greatly appreciated. rhanks in advance!
  11. Hello, a few weeks ago I noticed my chain guide had fallen off. No luck on finding it or any pieces. So I bought a new one (which was hard to find), but it didn’t come with bolts or anything. Where can I find what I need, hardware wise to get the new guide on. UPDATE: I went to make sure the guide fit my bike (since i bought it from ebay) and it actually doesnt. the wholes are too close together compared to the bracket on the bike, as well as the guide being just short of wide enough to go around the bracket (otherwise id drill a new hole). So if you guys know what i can do for a chain guide, that'd be awesome! thank you in advance.
  12. I bought a new chain and sprockets for my 04 cr125 and I cant figure out how to make it fit. Its too long so I was going to take a link out but then it'll be too short. Ive moved the adujster blocks from all the way forward to all the way back but it won't work either way. Chain and sprockets are all stock sizes.
  13. Hello, i have a question about chaintension, we're getting snow here so riding season is over. So i did the usual post season maintanence, oil, valve gap and clean air filter. When it came to my chain the sliders were worn all the way through and the roller tensioner pushed the chain agains the swing. So being the cheapskate i am decided to make my own slides out of some old snowmobile slides, wich works great. But the tensioner still pushes up against the slider, wich i guess is fine. It did that before, but i can't seem to get the tension right. I can get 3-4 fingers in on the top of the swing and the tension feels good, not comfortable tightening it more. But the tension under the swingarm seems a bit loose to me. I don't have a chainguide either so im a bit paranoid of the chain hopping of the rear sprocket. My question is really, how loose is dangerously loose on a dirtbike when it comes to chaintension?
  14. Any "good" reason why to choose the higher priced 520ERV3 over the 520VX2? ERV3 = $128 (Amazon.com) VX2 = $67 (Amazon.com) The ERV3's do have a higher tensile Strength of 8,650 lbs. vs. the VX2's 8,210 lbs. But the ERV3's have a "wear life index" of 3100 vs. the VX2's 3500 (whatever those units mean??). Seems guys are happy with the VX2's. Just wondering if there is a compelling reason to spring for the top of the line ERV3's? I'm not racing, just want a durable long-lasting chain.
  15. I'm back with another post... I thought I could handle this myself but after 3 days of messing with this I am at a loss. When I pull my front brake, I get a rattle noise coming from the front sprocket area. The same happens if I bounce the suspension. My chain was a little loose so I tightened it as tight as I could safely go. It was annoying messing with those spacers on the rear tire by myself but I finally got everything back together (including having to make a new gasket for the cover >.>). I thought that would be the end of it but the noise persists. The front sprocket itself has a little wiggle play to it but the bolts are tight so I assume that is normal. Does anyone have any idea what this is? It is driving me nuts that I can't ride my bike because I'm afraid I'm going to break something yet the thing that appears to be making the noise doesn't seem to want to stop. The front sprocket area was always a little noisey when the bike is off but I figure it is supposed to be that way. I have not had this issue before and it only does it when I brake with the front or bounce the suspension. Not from engine braking or rear brake. I have put 1000 miles on the bike this summer and it hasn't made this noise once... now it does it every time. I am 99% sure this is coming from the sprocket area and not the front brake area. I can feel vibration on the footpeg Please help me. Lol. I got laid off and can't afford to send this bike to a shop.. besides there is no shop here and I'd have to rent a trailer
  16. Hello all! I winter-commute cross-town in my city; Uppsala, Sweden. Our city loves salting the roads in the winter. So much so that the chain and sprockets on my winter-commuter basically needs a bi-yearly replacement. It's either that, or face a chain sandwiched in three layers around the front-sprocket, much like what happened this year in early spring at rush-hour... No amount of cleaning and oiling the chain helps unfortunately. Besides, a daily wash with kerosene and re-oiling is just not practical when the thermometer shows -15 centrigrades... Flushing the chain with water daily to get rid of the salt, is obviously not a solution in winter for physical reasons (the whole effing bike freezes in an icy armour...). Replacing chains and sprockets bi-yearly is a cost that runs up fast, so even if a stainless-steel chain would be more expensive to buy, I'm thinking it'd still be cheaper in the long run if I could extend the replacement with a year or rather two. However, have you ever heard of stainless steel motorcycle chains? Or are they as rare as the fabled unicorns? Generic rusty motorcycle chain from https://pixabay.com/p-555162/?no_redirect. PS. This is no troll posting. It's a real problem for me. DS.
  17. 2008 yz450f backfiring issue. Minnesota, 0-1,000', 70°-90°. Bought my friends '08 YZ450F w/ 167hrs, ran fine last time he rode it and the entire 3 years of ownership. He's never done any internal engine work or even messed with the carburetor other than cleaning it. Last time he rode it the rear wheel hub broke on the sprocket side and the chain jammed the front sprocket and stopped the engine. It hasn't been ridden or even started since-about 3 months ago. I bought it for a grand and threw my yz250 wheel on and thought it'd be ready to go... nope! 😩 starts right up, idles good, revs good, rides good until the exhaust is hot then it backfires like a mf (any throttle pos. but way worse wide open) and eventually dies until its cold again. New Air filter w/ fresh oil. Fresh 91 gas. Oils good, coolants good. Cleaned the carb, couldn't get to the a-pump or needle clip bc the screws were too tight. 75 PSI of compression. New spark plug, gap was good, insulator was mostly visible with a light grayish layer, electrode and outer ring had a light black layer, center electrode had the slightest bit of white residue. New plugs insulator was completely clean and the electrode and ring was black after 10 mins idling, 10 mins riding and messing with the fuel screw and idle. There was an air leak at the exhaust clamp, sealed that. There were cracks in the carburetor-engine intake boot, replaced that. The main jet was a JD170, replaced that with the standard 160 jet even though according to my friend the jets haven't been changed in 3+ yrs. The pilot jet is a JD48, standard is 45. Idles best 1/2 a turn out on the fuel screw with either jet, runs the same with both. Put the JD170 back in since that's what he always had in it. There was slack in the timing chain, tightened the tensioner. Timing is good I think? Cams lined up properly but the crank is just the tiniest bit past the timing mark. If I jump a tooth on the cams then the crank is further past in the other direction. Is this what the issue is?? How can I adjust the timing at the crank? Is that even a thing? Idk what else I can try at this point other than forcing my way into the accelerator pump to clean it Plz send help
  18. I have this spark plug o ring left to install, and I cannot for the life of me figure out where to put it and I don't want to chance it and install it the wrong way. will someone please tell me where this thing goes.
  19. Alright, so I just got done rebuilding the top end on my 07 KX 450F and as I am getting ready to install the top of the cylinder head I notice I have one last piece remaining that I can't account for. I mark everything and take several pictures so I can make sure everything is put back together perfectly, but somehow this piece evaded me. I showed where I think it goes in one of the pictures I provided. Can someone tell me if I am right or if this piece goes somewhere completely different?
  20. Hello, I posted a couple of weeks ago about DOT tires for the 450X. I went with the Michelin AC-10 tires which on the road seem good. a little light but good. they have not seen dirt yet because i am trying to make the bike street legal which so far is a breeze. (have not gone to DMV yet) Any way was looking for advice on front and rear sprocket combos that will give me a good combination On/Off of the road. want the torque when need but need to keep out of the way of traffic without rpm winding to high. Thoughts??
  21. Beware. Long story long. Juicy horror bike story. Learn from my mistake. DONT BUY WITHOUT TITLE! Once upon a time.. I rode my brothers Chinese 125cc bike before Xmas 2020 and was instantly hooked. Eager to ride again, I went shopping. I couldn’t afford new (so I thought), so I ended up testing out so much used trash. Eventually found an affordable and running 2006 CRF250R on OfferUp. Drove 60 miles to check it out. Owner was hesitant to sell from the go and once it was out the garage it wouldn’t kick over. I thought great another waste of time. He asked if we’d help him bump start it. But once it went, it WENT. He was asking $2300. Said it had a new Wiseco crank & piston and was just cold to start. It was a Real clean bike but I did notice there was a small leak from the shift shaft.. Also noticed the chain had at one point ripped through and caused some damage to the crank cover and interior frame. Nothing serious I thought. I had a mechanic friend on FaceTime listening and looking over the bike while it idled. He said it sounded good. Once it was warmed up I killed it and was able to kick it over 1 time and run it around the neighborhood for 5 minutes. Before cashing out and loading it in the truck the seller tells me he misplaced the CA title during the move (we in AZ) but he would provide a “Bill Of Sale” (come to find out is useless unless notarized) and help w title transfer. With the required repairs and no physical title, I low balled him down to $1500. He wasn’t budging until I pulled out the $10 bills stack.. inching close to xmas I’m sure it helped persuade him. As we loaded it in the truck he said with tear full eyes he’d buy it back if I ever needed to sell it. I thought I was getting away with a deal, little did I know I just inherited a curse from hell. Once I got it home I couldn’t kick it over for the life of me. With no one around to help me bump start it, it sat in my yard waiting to be touched. New to bikes, I grabbed the manual and watched 20+ hours of YouTube before deciding to tear it apart. I went and bought an air compressor and a boat load of tools. Off came the plastics, seat, sub frame and carb. The jets were clogged and it needed a thorough cleaning. Seals were still good. Then the first of many horrors began. I removed the chain guard and found the real leak! The crank case knob that holds the chain guard was busted off! What was left was a tiny hole in the crankcase. It was just enough to spit out a few drops of oil but over time I knew it was going to be an issue I’d have to take care of by removing and splitting the case to replace it. For now, JB weld would do. With the carb refreshed and shining, back in it went. To my surprise still wouldn’t kick over. For two weeks I kick it over until my calf is tripe in size. Still nothing. The parts guy at the bike shop suggested checking the valves. Back to YouTube I went. A week later the top end is off and I’m searching for shims. Exhaust L & R are to spec .010, L intake is .005 and the R intake has zero clearance. I remove the current shim there and it clears to .016 (waaay to much clearance) but all the compression is back and it fires right up. Quick Carb adjustments and its idling perrrfect. “FINALLY, what a great investment” I thought! I called Honda and asked what shims would work, they told me it’s too big of a clearance for shims and that if it’s running to “just ride it!”, “but eventually it’ll need a valve job”. So off I went, tearing up the desert. Man this bike was fast. “And I did it myself”, Id say to myself. $400 in gear and Three trips later, it was still running like a champ. Then I had the great idea of getting it titled and registered. The MVD passed inspection, no stolen record, no liens, no salvage title! Temp plate and registered! I Received my tags and began the rest of the title process. A week later I return to a different MVD office to pick up my title. They process my application and while waiting for the print out I’m approached by the police wanting to know where I stole the bike! I show proof of purchase and registration and ask what the hell are they talking about. The MVD has already inspected the bike and registered it to me. The fuzz say that while processing the title, MVD noticed a stolen vehicle report coming out of CA from back in May 2020. But how! How did it not come up when they registered it to me a week ago! The police ask where the bike is and I said at home. When I arrive home a new set of officers are waiting at my door to “recover the stolen bike”. I’m appalled. I ask for proof of this report and confirmation of the VIN. They said they didn’t need any so long as the CA authority dispatcher confirms it. While waiting for the tow truck, the officer tells me that he’d sure love to have a nice dirt bike like mine. Didn’t think anything of it until later.. So off they went with my bike. I began the process of hunting down who &%$#@! this all up. I head to the MVD where the original inspection was passed/performed. They reprocess the title paper work and VIN and tell me they do not see a stolen report! They process and print me a duplicate title and tell me to go get my bike from the tow yard! Ecstatic, off I went to get my bike. At the yard I show my ID, registration and my title. Exactly what the sign on the wall says is required to recover property from the yard. The guy at the desk desk says this is an unusual circumstance and will have to have the bike inspected, that it’ll be a few weeks but if it passes ADOT inspection the bike would be returned without fees. In the meantime I make a report with ADOT and ask if they can expedite the inspection process. I also contact the confiscation officer who tells me I may never see the bike again because the investigation could take years. I also speak with the CA law enforcement office who took the stolen vehicle report and confirms the VIN.., but also tells me that the person who made the report was not the register owner! Bwaaa tf! in the meantime I speak with an Autotheft Authority Agent who tells me this is a unique case that is really fishy and that I was not at fault, that the MVD and reporting police agency screwed up. They suggest it could have to do with insurance fraud and suggest I continue to press on and investigate it in attempt to get my bike back. Two days later, an ADOT enforcement agent calls me to tell me the bike passed the VIN inspection, again. I ask if I can get my bike back, they say it’s up to the yard but they don’t see why not as I am the registered and titled owner. When I return to the yard they say they spoke with ADOT and are giving the previous owner 2 weeks to come get the bike. I argue that I just spoke with them and they have no right. The yard manager tells me if I continue to fight this he will make sure I never get my bike back! At this point I’m so pissed! But must be patient.. I patiently wait the two weeks and return to the yard to pick up my bike (02/04). Upon arrival I see the yard manager on the side of the building sitting on my bike. I enter the office where I’m told I must pay for the tow and storage fees. The yard manager comes in and sits there pointing his camera at me (picture attached). I argue I’ve the fees, then pay them and load up my bike. That night at home I inspect the bike. It had rained a bit over those two weeks so I wanted to make sure nothing had happened while it sat outside. The bike kicked right over, Idling just like before. The next day I take it for a test run. 30 minutes into my ride I hear a ”tink tink” like a rock kicking up into the engine, then the bike seize’s up. The Kickstart won’t budge. I immediately think of that &%$#@! yard manager sitting on my bike on the side of the building. I walk my bike 3 miles back home. Today I plan to pull the engine and begin the inspection. I really hope I don’t find any evidence of sabotage. If anyone has a PDF service manual they can email me, I would be greatly indebted to you and will donate to your beer or oil funds. Thanks for reading my story. All comments and suggestions welcomed.
  22. Chain fell off 3rd gear WFO on my 2003 YZ250. Around 100 hours. Also took out top chain guard bolt along with the lower chain roller. What are your thoughts on fixing or replacing the case?
  23. So my negligence has left me with several hooked teeth on the balancer drive sprocket (directly behind the flywheel on crankshaft). I need some help on replacing it. 1.) The manual states that i need special tool 09917-23711 (ring nut socket wrench) in order to remove the old one and torque down the replacement. I've seen the Suzuki branded tool for $114 - 180. There's also an undbranded one on ebay for $60. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Cranksh ... 2630!US!-1 If I can help I'd rather not have to purchase a tool I'm only going to use once. Does anyone have one they can lend me if I put a deposit on it? 2.) The manual also states that I need a Conrod Holder #09910-20116, I'm guessing that would stop the crank from spinning during removal and reinstallation. Is there any way I could get around this as well? I've seen a youtube video of someone locking up the piston by feeding a shoestring through the sparkplug hole. I'm not sure I trust that not to go wrong and have dirt/fabric in my cylinder. If I put the bike in gear and ratchet strap the rear wheel to the frame or something more stout, like a tree, would that prevent the crank from spinning? 3.) Also part # 12662-37402 Suzuki balancer drive sprocket usually runs about $130 new. Does anyone have a used one in decent condition they'd be willing to cut me a deal on?
  24. I am trying to take my chain off, and I noticed their is a master link but there is no pin. I have tried pulling it out thinking I lost the pin or it fell off, but it won’t come free. Is this a different type of chain or is there anyway I can get it free?
  25. Second ride out on my 2014 kx450f first ride everything smooth, replaced my front sprocket and Chain roller (Rear chain cover is slightly rubbing on chain). On the lower left side i hear an occasional rattle when riding in all gears putting around. When I hit the gas hard and rip through the gears ur tends to go away. Also goes away when bike is stationary as well as just rolling in neutral. Chain and sprockets are new. could it be chain slap? Or worse something with my transmission? If so how would I go about fixing it considering it’s all new parts
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