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Found 11 results

  1. Does anyone know how to replace the “Charging Coil 1” on a 2007 yz250f? When using the multimeter, I received the following readings: Ignition Coil Primary coil resistance: initially .8 but settles at .3 - .5 - spec: .08 - .10 Secondary coil resistance: 5.7 - spec: 4.6 - 6.8 CDI Mageto Pickup coil resistance: 293 - spec: 248 - 372 Charging coil 1: no reading on multimeter - spec: 720 - 1,080 Charging coil 2: 52 - spec 44 - 66 Both the stop and neutral switches checked out last time I tested, but that was months ago. Spark plug was good, but I replaced it, anyway. The bike ran perfect last year and randomly wouldn’t give any feedback when kickstarting (no start button) after riding the prior day (last summer). It has been sitting ever since. Would you say the charging coil 1 is the issue here? I am trying to eliminate shop fees, so I would like to replace a small part rather than the whole stator/CDI unit if it is even possible. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
  2. So I was riding yesterday and saw my dash flickering/resetting. After I turned off the ignition, then back on, the bike would not start with the button for a second, just nothing on dash or neutral light on. Wiggled ignition key, then everything came back to life long enough to start it, which sounded normal, not slow. Coincidence? The bike ran fine all the way home, but dash kept flickering/resetting. Came out to start again, nothing. checked battery, 10V. Charged battery 3 hours, enough to use for diag I thought, but still tested at 10V from the charger. Put back in, nothing. Started pulling connectors, found that with key on, the dash and indicator lights came on when headlight bulb was disconnected. Simply touching headlight connector to bulb killed power to the dash. Would still not start, battery too low apparently. Curiously, the battery voltage went up to 11.5V after all my testing, engine was never started. Pulled connector to stator, tested all three phases, none continuity to ground, about 1.5ohms between the phases. Connecting my jumper pack to main terminals brought bike to life, dash, headlight, everything. My question is this: Could the battery be internally shorting? It is only about 3 months old, gel, and of a generic brand (TMS). Would this cause the dash of the bike to reset while running, and also keep it from powering the headlight now even when it is at 11.5V? I am guessing it is pushing out so little amps it is unable to power much of anything, but the 11.5 volts to me should be enough in a healthy battery to at least run a 9003 bulb. Thanks in advance!
  3. I need help, ideas, thoughts, anything that might help me with the issue I'm having. I purchased the 2021 Beta 350 RRS just two weeks ago. It has already been back to the service shop and they replaced the fuel pump. Today I just purchased a brand new battery for it. #1 - went for short run (4 miles) and bike just stopped running. Engine light came on. When I tried to restart it,, it acted like a dead battery.. Pushed it home. The next morning it started right up. #2 - I had the bike just a few days, I forgot and left the key on and the head light remained on which of course drained the battery. Napa charged the battery up and tested it (yes they used the correct charger)., Bike ran great for 45 minutes and died again mid-ride, pushed it home again. #3 - Bike was taken to dealership, they diagnosed as a bad fuel pump, which they replaced. Brought it home, took it for a ride, it lasted 3 miles, then I stalled it going up a hill, tried to start it and it acted like a flooded motor, it would turn, but not start. #4 - Bike started this AM, rode 1 mile and then back, all good. Got home, put on gear and it lasted 1/4 mile and died yet again. Went and purchased a brand new battery and took it out again tonight, only to push it home for about 1 1/2 miles. Once home, I attempted to start, it turned a few times then just died again. Symptoms: randomly dies during ride. At times it will attempt to turnover, but just not start. Sometimes it dies and attempt to restart sounds like a completely dead battery. Sometimes it sputters a few times before it dies, other times it just simply stops running. Engine light comes on within minutes every time before it dies. So before I shove this brand new Beta dirt bike up the dealerships ass, and just go buy a Honda instead, I thought maybe someone on here might offer some troubleshooting ideas. Thanks!
  4. I have a noco battery tender with a lithium ion mode, do you think it's best to charge these batteries with that? Can these batteries be charged with a regular charger? My dealer said it can only be charged with a lithium ion capable charger.
  5. My DR650se just killed two brand new batteries. I install them and within 3 rides both drain completely dead immediately and then the bike stalls out. What’s causing this?
  6. Can anyone tell me what these white connectors are on a 2012 WR450F with 6 wires leading into a metal plate are for? As you can see from the photos, one of mine has burnt out and now my bike isn't charging. Any idea how I can replace it as I can't find it on any parts diagram
  7. Hey guys. I have a 2009 KTM 300 XCW. I've replaced the regulator/rectifier and the stator but my battery is still dead after a ride. Anything else I need to check besides all the wiring? Thanks
  8. Hi All, I have a DRZ 400 SM (2008) in need of new stator assembly. I live in the UK and have had the bike since 2014. Had no issues with it until it was stolen and crashed. They cracked the side stator cover and it has had charging issues ever since. My local garage have identified a fried stator. So it needs replacing. (Cover being replaced too). A genuine Suzuki part over her is £520 ($658 USD) which is a price I'm finding hard to accept......so am looking aftermarket part. Recommendations would be greatly appreciated! I've come across RMSTATOR and Ricky Stator, but unsure of what to buy. Plenty of US and Canadian suppliers but not much over in the UK. But happy to pay for shipping in there is nothing local to me. Thanks a lot in advance!! Desperate to gt back running well. Ged
  9. Hey guys, I have a 2007 YZ450 and am about to install a LED headlight from Polisport. In order to accomplish this, I had to get a new stator from RickyStator to support the additional light wattage. Clearly I need a rectifier to "convert" AC to DC, but I am curious if I also need to install a battery. These bikes are kickstart only, so a battery would only serve to run the lights when the bike is off. The diagrams I have seen on this site show the rectifier connecting to the positive and negative terminals of the battery as a means of charging them. Is there a need for the battery? If so is there a way around this need? Thanks!
  10. Just installed a new Trail Tech 100 Watt High Output DC Electrical System for Yamaha WR450F 2003-2004 with a brand new battery (130CCA). I am getting 13.6VDC at the battery terminals with the bike at 5000rpms. The owners manual says that you are supposed to 14.1~14.9v @ 50000rmps on the red and black connectors (leads) under the tank. I forgot to check those before installing the tank back. Is 14.1~14.9v what I am supposed to get at the battery terminals as well? Thanks
  11. Hello, Im new here but I read TT forum pretty long time but I never had problems which I didnt know how to solve them:). I have a DRZ400S. I had a problem with no charging but I solved it, I cleaned connectors and it has 13,5V when idle. But when I blip the throttle voltage drops down to about 13V. I checked connectors and wires, everything is OK. I checked the stator, it has about 32V AC when idle. In revs it have simply 60-80V AC. There is 2,5ohms between all three contacts. No conductivity between stator and ground. And here starts the funny thing: I have two friends with DRZ: 1st: OEM stator, 13,5V idle charging, in revs drops down to 13V - no free power mod 2st friend: third party english stator for about 170USD, 14V idle charging, NO DROPS. - no free power mod. I checked this alternator: 25V when idle, and about 50-60V in revs and 1,5omhs. I borrowed regulator from 2nd friend and tested it on my bike, but same 13,5V and drops down. I dont know why the charging voltage drops down, 13V is very bad for charging a battery on long trip. I want to go about 3000-4000km trip in two weeks and I dont trust it :(. Thanks.
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