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Found 14 results

  1. Hey guys, about finished with my 89 cr restore. Well, mechanically. Its still looks like it fell out the ugly tree and hit every branch on the way down, buuuut, I just went to slap my exhaust on and break in the fresh top end, ans realized I left the expansion chamber on the back burner and its caked in carbon, and covered in splooged all inside. My question to you fine people is this: best solvent/method of cleaning the inside of an expansion chamber. This thing has been hammered by years of an idiotic owner who couldn't mix gas correctly nor maintain his investment. Either way, its the Works pipe which they no longer make for the CR, so I would REALLY like to refurb it to brand new. I heard the heat method is no good for stainless expansion chambers, and although I am a welder, I'd rather not cut into the pipe itself. I also have too much pride to pay someone else to do it. So, any ideas? Thanks!
  2. Im rebuilding an old 01cr250r and just curious whats something i could use to clean the motor inside and out? Also would it be best to go with a wiseco bottom end or and OEM. thanks
  3. So I just went out and got me a new 2018 450, I have only ridden it once and due to the break in process I haven't been able to ride it hard at all but I noticed that my black moto boot left a nice black mark on the rough part of the frame by the foot peg. I tried a very hard brush and some soap with a lot of elbow grease and had no luck. Any tips to help keep this beautiful bike looking its best will be greatly appreciated.
  4. I know there have been multiple threads about this already, but I am new to this and would like advice, I am thinking of cleaning it with an oxalis acid bath. Any tips on this, and is oxalic acid okay to use to clean other parts of the bike, like the stock ktm silencer, kick start, carb, etc??? Info please. Thanks.
  5. Off-road riding means getting dirty, not just the rider but also our machines…and while we take a quick shower and we’re ready for a night out, our motorcycles don’t have it as easy! There are many different schools of thought when it comes to how to properly wash your dirty/muddy/sandy motorcycle after riding, so we took a look at some of the popular techniques and did some investigation into “what’s right and what’s wrong” when it comes to cleaning your ride. Although most of our readers are pretty sharp, most of us aren’t detailing experts so we reached out to some industry experts for their insight and advice and they are quoted here. #1: YOU’RE HARMING THE EXPENSIVE FINISHES ON YOUR BIKE Modern motocross bikes (and even older more exotic machines) can have a myriad of different types of metals and plastics that can present a problem when you want to quickly wash your bike after a day in the dirt. Materials like titanium, aluminum, magnesium, carbon fiber and hard/soft rubber may have different requirements when it comes to cleaning. We spoke first to Boris Mahlich at Motorex who stated “Certain cleaning chemicals are harsh on the finishes, glossy and matte finishes in particular and metal surfaces. Aluminum, magnesium and titanium in particular are susceptible to staining, etching and corrosion from harsh cleaning agents not suitable for such metals. Another thing to consider (is that) rubber seals which can dry and crack when continuously cleaned with harsh cleaning products or solvents.” “Solvents and cleaners that are overly acidic or alkaline (high and low pH values) are not good. Stay away from extremely alkaline cleaners and extremely acidic cleaners typically used for industrial and household applications.” Andrew Hodges at Bel-Ray offered this insight: “Highly caustic chemicals can damage certain surfaces if left on for too long, so it is a good idea to either spot check a cleaner before applying it, or checking with the chemical’s manufacturer for their usage guidelines. Solvent based cleaners can also have a negative effect on some painted and plastic surfaces.” Brian Wilkinson of Slick Products said: “Any cleaning product that does not have a neutral or low pH of 7-8 should be used with caution. High alkaline products are very corrosive and will etch soft aluminum and will discolor those expensive anodized parts on your bike.” In talking to these experts, it seems a safe way to go is to use cleaners that have a neutral PH not too high or low, and stay away from your rubber components where possible. #2: YOU AREN’T USING THE RIGHT PRODUCTS ON YOUR MOTORCYCLE Walk down the automotive aisle at any big-box or automotive store and you see many offerings in the vehicle washing section. They are cheap and have great marketing…in fact I use them on my power equipment, but not on my motorcycles. What are the pros and cons of using some of these more popular mainstream “general purpose” products such as Power Purple and Simple Green? We asked our experts their honest opinions and here’s what they said. Hodges: “General purpose cleaners usually fall into that highly caustic group I mentioned before so using them should be done with care. They are generally very good at cutting through grease and soils, but they don’t stop there. So if they are left on a surface for too long it will eventually start affecting the surface. If a part such as a plastic guard has any surface defects in the clear-coat, those highly caustic cleaners can get under the clear coat at the damaged area and spread the damage. So, they can be used, but there is more generally more risk in doing so compared to a buffered, surfactant based cleaner.” Wilkinson agreed and added: “The simple answer is that (these products) are not designed to be used on motorcycles. Industrial and household cleaners often have higher pH making them more corrosive on soft aluminum. In some cases etching and discoloring will occur in seconds while other cases corrosion tends to slowly occur after every wash.” “In addition, do not overlook the fact that a motorcycle needs lubrication (and) using a degreaser as an overall bike wash will strip lubrication from bearings and pivots points. Unless you’re a professional mechanic who takes their bike apart every week to re-grease you should be using a product like our Off-Road Wash that removes heavy dirt and mud without stripping lubrication.” Other industry experts mentioned they were concerned with not only potential harm to the end-user of these more aggressive cleaning products, but also the effects on the environment as a whole. As with all off-road chemical products, it’s important to not only remember proper application and usage, but also think about where these products may end up, so always observe proper containment and disposal requirements. #3: YOU AREN’T PROPERLY WASHING YOUR MACHINE Is there a right and wrong way to clean your bike? We’ve always felt as long as it looks clean at the end that what matter, right? Well, we’ve heard a lot of different advice when it comes to washing your bike. Use pressure washer, don’t use pressure washers, stay away from all seals, never wash o-ring chain, etc. Some of these tips seem to make sense and some may be based on old-school habits that die hard so we asked the panel their thoughts on this topic. Eddie Cole from Matrix / 1.7 Cleaning Solutions offered some tips on washing your motorcycle correctly: “It's best to let the motorcycle cool down before washing it and lube the things right away that need to be lubed after washing. (Don’t) get water into the exhaust system and into the air filtration system, there are exhaust plugs and air filter covers on the market (that are) designed to keep water out of those areas, and use a Spray and Shine with rust preventing agent.” Cole continued: “We think it's (also) important to dry the motorcycle properly and make sure everything is dry and in working order and we recommend cleaning the air filter right away before restarting (making sure to) remove the exhaust plug before starting the bike. Check that that the controls, brakes and the throttle are in good smooth functioning order before starting and/or riding the bike again.” Hodges from Bel-Ray elaborated on mistakes they see riders make when cleaning their machines and this includes: “Not spot checking cleaners on aftermarket parts before coating the entire bike in cleaner. If the parts utilize a unique or uncommon surface finish, this can be problematic for cleaners that are designed for the more typical surface finishes. These parts may need some more individual attention for cleaning. Using a pressure washer to rinse the bike - the pressure washer risks pushing water and displacing lubricant or flooding into places you don’t want water.” He continued: “Thinking that a bio-based cleaner is fine to just drain into the soil or a drain. Just because it is bio-based doesn’t mean it isn’t detrimental to the environment. Water based, biodegradable cleaners are generally safe for that practice, but any solvent based cleaner (bio or not) should be disposed of properly.” Wilkinson from Slick added: “The worst mistake is a permanent one. Since being at Slick Products we have so many customers who used a product that (has) caused damage and want to know how to fix it. You can't un-corrode metal, so when you spend $8-$10K on your dirtbike don't spray a $2 cleaner on it.” #4: YOU MAY NOT BE USING A MOTORCYCLE-SPECIFIC CLEANER Some products made “for motorcycles” can be expensive when compare to their automotive counterparts, so we’ve been somewhat reluctant to buy them as frequently and figure many of our readers feel the same. We asked the experts what makes their off-road products “motorcycle specific” so we could gain some insight into what products to buy and why. Hodges from Bel-Ray went first: “Bike Wash is a water-based, buffered, and the cleaning power is based on surfactant technology. It penetrates and lifts grease and soil from surfaces allowing for easy rinse off. A short time on the surface is all it takes for the dirt to be loosened, so by the time you spray the last area of the bike or ATV, you can begin rinsing the first area and work your way around. Unless the machine is extremely dirty, it usually requires no scrubbing or physical cleaning.” Hodges also mentioned the Bel-Ray Foam Filter Cleaner & Degreaser is designed specifically to remove dirt and the high tack filter oils common in motorcycle and ATV applications. Mahlich from Motorex explained: “Motorex products are engineered and designed by our in-house laboratory in Switzerland specifically for motorcycle applications. That means they are not industrial products that may just work on a motorcycle. The sole purpose for these products is for the care and maintenance of your motorcycle and that is what they are designed to do.” Cole from 1.7 Cleaning Solutions offered: “1.7 Cleaning Solutions were developed specifically for motorcycles, we spent months interviewing and testing with the top mechanics in professional racing to develop a product line to meet their professionals needs and expectations.” “We needed a multi-purpose cleaning product that would attack the dirt, oil, grease grime quickly but leave a bright finish when dry. The wash needed to work and be compatible with plastic, aluminum, steel, magnesium and titanium without harming or attacking powder coated finishes, anodized finishes or chrome, (so) we developed motorcycle specific products for specific purpose that include our Formula 1 Wash Degreaser for motorcycle finishes, our Formula 2 Spray and Shine for the complete motorcycle (plastics, motor, suspension and components) that gives a factory "new look shine" and light silicone lubricant finish. Wilkinson of Slick added: “We have worked very hard to create specially formulated non-corrosive cleaning products designed for motorcycle riders, by motorcycle riders to offer a faster, safer, and easier cleaning experience. Each one of our cleaners serves a unique purpose in the cleaning process to help maintain the life, look, and value of your bike.” #5: YOU AREN’T DETAILING YOUR MOTORCYCLE BEFORE STORAGE Many riders wash their bikes and stick them in the garage…don’t. Putting a motorcycle away for any length of time makes them susceptible to oxidation and corrosion and that’s not good. This is more of a problem for riders in colder climates with shorter riding seasons like the Northeast and there is more than one school of thought on how to put your bike away. So we asked the experts why and how to clean your motorcycle before storage. Hodges from Bel-Ray offered: “A thorough cleaning is always a good idea, but more importantly it’s what you put on rather than what you clean off when storing a bike. Cleaning the chain and applying fresh chain lube with strong anti-rust properties is the first and easiest thing to do.” “A rubber preservative for any external hoses or seals is a good idea for long term storage (and) cleaning grease and grime from electrical contacts and applying a non-conductive protectant or grease to electrical terminals is advisable. Any protective surface coatings for plastic, metal, rubber or vinyl surfaces can only help in preserving the condition of the bike.” Mahlich from Motorex added: “To keep metal finishes from oxidizing while a motorcycle is stored, cover the surfaces with a protective spray. Motorex Moto Protect is formulated to protect all painted and metal surfaces from corrosion and oxidation. Simply spray the surfaces leaving a thin protective film that will ensure your motorcycle comes out of storage looking as good as it did when it went into storage.” In conclusion, by observing some simple protocols and using common sense when cleaning your motorcycle, you can keep that factory look and that not only makes you feel good but also preserves your hard-earned investment for future resale. Today’s motorcycles are expensive and use exotic materials that are important to the overall look and function of the machine, but there are products available that can not only clean your ride properly, but help preserve these materials so they can perform as they were originally designed. Have a though to share? Hit us up in the comments section below!
  6. Its a 03 crf450 . I can't get my intake boot back on my carb for the life of me after taking the carb out and cleaning it. Im getting so worked up over this damn thing. Anyone ever have this problem before.
  7. Hello Team: I just bought a 2008 WR250r that has only 567 miles on it. It's bone stock and runs fine. Sounds a little weak when it tries to start up and when I turn the key it I don't hear it priming up. It's been sitting in a garage for years. I know it needs new tires (they are barely worn but have turned plastic-y from age) and the bike is super grimy around the typical areas from sitting idle for a long long time. All recall work performed. Fuel pump and Stator.. I'd love some advice on what my priorities should be to get this puppy a fresh start to life. What are the priorities here? Should I take it in for inspection? What would you all do? Also, can you recommend a great cleaner to get this puppy de greased and spangly again? (I'd like to give it a good cleaning first) Any input would be greatly appreciated and thanks! TMD
  8. Hopefully I will not have to make any more posts after this but I have questions about the 04 wr snorkel. Before it's suggested yes I did read the free mod guide on super Moto junkie and he shows the snorkel being removed but does not explain or show how. I tried removing the two bolts on top and the battery but it still doesn't even budge after that, is it molded in place? Also what is deemed as a clean or dirty air filter? I don't know what is supposed to be normal, upon looking at mine there was a good amount of thick black grease that I wiped out so I have no idea how long this one has been used or last cleaned. I bought a no toil filter to replace the current one since I just did a rebuild and why not have a clean one in there. But if someone can enlighten me on details it would be much appreciated.
  9. Hey guys me being an idiot took my ignition case off and when I put it back on didn't put the stator wire seal back all the way inside of the bike so After I went and rode herd some sloshing around and it was all wet in there from puddles.any ways you guys can think of cleaning it all out so there's no rust? just spray some type of cleaner in there?
  10. I recently received new graphics for my bike, what's the best way to clean the plastics? I'm looking for a solution with no aftermarket cleaning kits, etc, just common items like Brakleen, brillo pads, etc.
  11. Hey guys! The title says it all. I pulled the bottom end out of my YZ, and figured while that was off, I my as well pull all the axels and anything that was rusty and clean them. I didn’t think to take a before picture, but these pipes were solid rust. I thought there’s no way I’d be able to save em. THEN, the pops said “ this stuff is worth it’s weight in gold” and boy o boy, was he right. This metal rescue brand rust remover is absolutely phenomenal and I’ll never use anything else. When I say these were solid rust I mean they had flakey rust falling off them. Now look at em. I am not endorsed or payed in any way by this company. You can leave bolts or anything overnight and a brissle pad with some dawn the next morning , OR 48 hrs after and they will look this good. It’s unreal stuff and I had to share!
  12. Wondering how i could keep my gear true to their colors? I am planning on buying this gear right here, (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1590/77640/ONeal-Racing-Mayhem-Lite-Blocker-Split-Jersey?c=382) and am already seeing it the yellow/white will be brown after 1 ride/wash in the machine. I currently have a turquoise jersey and after 5 rides its got brown spots, etc all over it and looks like crap after paying $35 for it. I use tide detergent only with washing instructions from the tag, no bleach or "degreaser cleaner" of any sorts added. (Just a note that "might help" is that I don't ride track but instead woods riding where the mud is thick and like concrete when it dries.) If anyone has any gear cleaning techniques that could get my gear looking better after rides so it lasts longer, i would appreciate it. Thanks.
  13. So I purchased an engine off a classified site and brought it home. Took it apart and here I stand haha. So I understand how it all works together for the most part. However I would like to take the head apart a little further for some deep cleaning. I can’t seem to figure out how to take the cam shaft and valves out. Also what does everyone recommend to use for cleaning the carbon off the head and valves? I’ve been using carb clean but it isn’t working real well. I’ll be replacing the cylinder and the piston. They’re worn and scraped and in my opinion just need replacing. I’ll post some pictures so you guys can see what I’m dealing with.
  14. Guys, Pulled the bike out of storage and runs, but is acting up a little. 1. Hard to start 2. Won't idle without choke until it's very warm. 3. Throttle lingers on release - so RPMS stay up. And if I adjust the idle higher, this becomes VERY noticable. 4. Lurching forward slightly. I figure it's time to clean the carb. Now, I've done carb cleans on Honda's, but this is my first KTM. Anyone have any how-to videos (Model specific). Searching YouTube and it looks like nobody has done one for this specific model... or least none that I can find. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
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