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Found 9 results

  1. chris.scott664

    Valve Shimming Trouble

    Hey Guys, Doing my first valve shim on my 07crf250r. bike is real hard to start, i changed my oil and cleaned my air filter. even cleaned the carb..so im guessing its the valves. Measuring the exhaust valves were fairly simple; as in i could tell when the shim fit and did not. cant say the same for my intakes. im having a real hard time determining whether or not the shim is fitting between the cam lobe and the valve bucket. any tips or tricks from some anyone with more experience than i do? my exhausts are .23mm and .25 mm so one is just barely in spec and one is slightly out of. don’t know what my intakes are because i cant figure out how to measure them. in the pic i was trying to use .09mm shim. dont know if they help but i couldnt upload the video thanks in advance
  2. Ali S.

    2006 RMZ250 valve clearances

    I have an 06 RMZ 250 and I wanted to know the best way to calculate the shim sizes I need because I am adjusting my valve clearances. I am new to this and people are using different formulas so I was kind of confused.
  3. All, I'm new to the forum but I've been reading quite a bit. I've got a new to me Suzuki DRZ400e with a no start problem. I've never had it running so I have no baseline for what normal is for this particular bike but it looks great. It will turn over but not fire. I do have a good solid spark and I recently rebuilt the carb. I wouldn't be surprised at all if I screwed up during the carb rebuild and that's the source of my issues, however I do have a few questions. For the carb rebuild, I installed all stock jets with all stock settings and I felt pretty good about the rebuilt. Not my first carb rebuild but certainly the most complicated. Through all my attempts to start the bike, the spark plug has remained dry. I tried starting fluid tonight and all it did was pop and backfire out of the carb and start a small blue fire. It did not come close to starting. I also checked my valve clearances and I'm getting some out of spec readings. I was expecting between .10mm-.20mm on the intake and between .20-.30mm on exhaust. What I found was my exhaust valves were in spec but I was getting a max of .457 and .406 on the intake clearances. 1) First question - the pop and backfire out the carb. Is that indicative of bad timing, bad valves, a stuck valve....or what? 2) Regarding the Keihin FCR 39 carb -The airbox and filter are removed and I'm looking down the air intake of the carb. When I rotate the throttle, I don't see any squirt of fuel at all when I attempt to start it. Should I be able to see a mist of fuel spray down the carb throat when I turn the throttle? 3) Regarding valve clearances, could a max of .457 and .406 on the intake clearances cause a no start condition and could it cause the pop and backfire? 4) Even with those valve clearance specs should the bike have started if the carb was ok? 5) Lastly, my cam sprockets are off a bit. I read they were each supposed to be "straight up" but I don't know how specific that should be. On the left sprocket, the number 3 is more at the 11 o'clock than straight up and down. The right sprocket with the number 2 is perfectly centered straight up. In looking at the lobes, I read they should be at 10 and 2. The exhaust is at 10 but the intake seems to be at 3. Seems consistent with the sprocket being slightly counter clockwise. Help please!
  4. FloydIN

    Pistone Bore Clearance

    HI. I have CRF450r 2007. (Sorry for my inglish. I am from Georgia. Tbilisi ) thanks . I want to by Wiseco or same piston. My bike bore size is 96.03 mm (I do not know for sure. Car engine master told me). I am interesting about clearance between bore and Wiseco piston. What clearance will be between wiseco piston and my bike bore ? What size of same piston i need tu buy for my baike bore size? What is the real size of wiseco piston for crf 450r/ or maby will i buy another brand piston. When i look to my cylynder, i see good hone and it looks like new. mayby engine master is vrong about size.
  5. I just finished rebuilding the top end on my 2001 wr250f. The bike has an Athena 290 big bore cylinder and piston. I never checked the valve clearance before the rebuild. After rebuilding, I checked the valve clearances. All three intake valves have zero clearance. I cannot get my .03mm gauge to slide in. The exhaust valves are only slightly on the tight side with .015mm each. I double checked and made sure I wasn't on the exhaust stroke. I have zero clearance on all valves on the exhaust stroke. I even tried turned the flywheel back and forth from TDC and measuring to see if my timing was off, causing the zero clearance. These test also had zero clearance on the intake valves. Have all three of my intake valves worn down to the point where there is no clearance? When I had the head off, the bottom of the valves looked decent. Slightly blackened, with a small amount of carbon, but I didnt notice any major wear, chips or cracks. Anyone got any idea what's going on here? Thanks in advance for your guys' wisdom.
  6. RockyMtnMark

    Valves: To Adjust or Just Ride?

    Good Morning, Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S. It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011. I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt. Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm. Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30 My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down. My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec. They are no more than 25 microns out of spec. My question is, do I really need to shim these? Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses? As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80. Thanks!
  7. First off, im sorry if i word this oddly or come off as a dimwit, ive just been working on my bike for a long time now and my brain is shot. Im just wondering how you guys measure valve clearance with feeler gauges. Is it supposed to move under the cam with some resistance? Or almost no resistance? Or alot of resistance? Im shimming my intake valves and i have taken my bike apart and put it back together like 5 times now trying to get the clearance into spec. One of my intake valves seems fine, but if i press hard i can fit a .17 feeler gauge under it. But i have to give it some force, and its not easy to get back out either. Does forcing a feeler gauge in to a space mean anything or should it slide in fairly easy. Also, if i WERE to run with one intake valve at .17 clearance what would that do to my engine?
  8. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    Hi everyone, I recently got a 1990 DR250 that had the engine swapped from a DR350, presumably 90-93 model. It was missing the decompression lever and cable, and the previous owner used it that way. I put on a decompression lever and cable, then adjusted the valve clearances. My problem seems that either the decompression lever will work and become engaged by the lever, and click back when it hits TDC but with no compression overall, or I have high compression but the decompression lever does nothing. Ive tried to adjust the exhaust valve to the manual spec and even play around with increasing or decreasing the clearance. So it seems either I can kick it with no resistance and no combustion, or nearly impossible to kick but a sputter hear that it wants to start. Am I doing something wrong, or am I missing something?
  9. Johnlckhrt

    Valve Question

    Im wondering if valve clearance will generally tighten or loosen over time? My bike has been hard to start lately, and running weird when warming up. Yesterday i couldnt even get the thing started and ive never not been able to start my bike. I figured maybe my valves need to be shimmed. I bought the bike 2 years ago and have never shimmed the valves so maybe its time i thought. So i got the bike into the garage took the valve cover off, set it to TDC and checked my clearances using the same feeler gauges i used when i put a top end in the bike last year. The exhaust valves seem to have stayed about the same, but my intake valves are too tight for me to fit my feeler gauge into now. Im just wondering if this is normal, i would assume over time valves would get looser as opposed to tighter, but you never know so i thought id ask you all.
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