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Found 86 results

  1. I would like to start off by saying that I am a new rider and never been on a bike with an auto clutch. That's not to say that I wouldn't be interested in trying one out, even though I will probably never have one. I bought my first bike at 29 and a year later I'm still a pretty terrible rider, but it is still a blast. I bought a motorcycle to have fun and no other reason. So to the question, if someone can buy an auto clutch and it makes riding more fun for THEM then why not? A lot of people say that it prevents you from learning proper clutch skills etc etc, but what does it matter if you have more fun?
  2. Hey Thumper Talk community I've been all over the forums trying to find out what is going on with my 09 drz400sm clutch. So during the end last riding season I noticed my clutch lever started feeling poor. Just didn't give a very good feel but still functioned just fine. I thought the lever just needed to be adjusted. So in preparing for this up coming riding season here in Minnesota I started to adjust my clutch lever. No matter how I adjusted it at the lever/perch/cable area I could not get it dialed in. I then proceed to work on the clutch arm and see if that was the problem. From what I was reading the clutch throwout post needs to be rotated all the way counterclockwise, then the arm place in either the original position or parallel to the bike. I feel like I have tried every position and every time it leads little to no room in the cable to adjust it at the perch and wont fully disengage the transmission. The clutch lever has great feel but no slack in the line and will barely allow me to rotate the rear tire while the lever is in and in gear.(not fully disengaging) I started to think something inside the clutch was wrong even though it worked fine last season. I followed this clutch inspection guide and everything is in tolerance. I'm kind of stumped. I even tried to put everything back to how it was last season to see if i could get something but no luck. I have zeta levers and a replacement cable (original cable snapped). Both worked fine in the past. Let me know if you have any suggestions. I appreciate your time. -Justin
  3. I'm new to thumper talk and hope I can get some help here. I had my clutch cable break at the handlebar end while riding. I ordered a replacement and installed it as the repair manual says. I can't get the clutch to disengage. So I disconnected the cable at the engine end. With the bike on a stand and with the engine off I put it in first gear and no matter where I move the clutch lever at the engine the clutch won't disengage. I checked it by turning the rear tire by hand. I've noticed that the spring on the shaft of the lever has popped off but the pictures in the book don't show enough detail to see exactly where it should be hooked. It almost seems like it needs to be hooked and go a full revolution before the other end is hooked, to get any tension on it, but wont go that far. But that's a small issue. What could've gone wrong in my clutch to cause this? It seems odd to happen just cause my cable broke. The bike was towed a mile or so out of the woods in neutral after it broke. Even at that time I found it strange that I couldn't get it into first and ease out the clutch with the lever but I'm pretty sure the spring was popped off the lever at the time. Any help is appreciated since I'm supposed to take the family riding this coming weekend. Thanks!
  4. I got a Clake 2 system (easy pull hydraulic clutch + left hand rear brake) but I can'y get the clutch to work properly. I'm pretty sure that I've bled out any air but the slave doesn't seem to move the stock clutch actuation arm enough when the slave unit is in the stock bracket that held the OEM clutch cable. This is on a 2017 YZ250FX. It seems like the movement arc of the end of the clutch actuation arm doesn't allow the rod from the slave cylinder to move straight in and out without binding. Has anyone put a Magura hydraulic clutch or a Clake 2 or Clake Pro Lever on a 2014+ YZ250FX or YZ250F? If so, did you use the stock bracket for the slave unit or did you make or buy a different bracket?
  5. Hey guys, I just picked up a 2014 kx250f with 3 hours on an entire rebuild for 1700 (not running). When I got home, I was able to get the bike running, however when I come off the clutch from first, the bike stalls no matter the RPM. Is this a clutch issue? Or perhaps electrical? When I tore into the top end I did notice my exhaust valves were off spec so could this be the culprit? This is my first FI bike, so any advice helps. Thanks in advance
  6. I have a 1985 kx80 and recently replaced the clutch plates and springs. The clutch basket is not grooved. I've put everything back together, and now the clutch won't disengage/engage when I pull the clutch lever. I put everything back together as per the service manual. I've even replaced the clutch cable. What am I missing on this???
  7. We picked up a used 2016 CRF125 Big wheel that is in pretty solid shape. One thing I've noticed is that when shifting into any gear, releasing the clutch lever and then giving it some throttle I get a fairly noticeable "jerk". It feels like maybe the clutch is engaging late even though I've fully released the lever. I don't have a ton of experience with bikes and I'm comparing the feel to the CRF230 we own which is fairly smooth when switching between speeds. Any advice would be appreciated.
  8. I am in the process of replacing the clutch plates and springs on my 2014 YZ450. I noticed that there are quite a few visible grooves /notches on the hub and basket. What do you guys think, are they bad enough that I should replace both parts? I dont want to ruin new plates but also dont really want to drop alot of money on hub and basket, if i dont need it. Thanks!
  9. Hi all! This is my first post on the forum so sorry if I'm in the wrong thread. I pulled a 2002 cr80 off the beach that I found abandon there and I recently got it running, but the clutch needs to be replaced/fixed. I can get all of the screws for the clutch cover off but one is behind the foot peg so I can't get a ratchet or wrench back there. Any ideas?
  10. 2010 yz250f Alright, I was riding and I noticed that when I pulled in the clutch the bike still wanted to move. So I looked it up and found out that it could be your clutch basket or that it could be the cable needs adjusted. So I spent an hour adjusting the cable all different ways just to find out the the problem still occured. So I bought a whole new clutch with low hours used on ebay after I saw that my basket had some decently bad grooves and some nasty plates. Well I get it all installed and it seems as if the push rod is not going to Its full extent but I may be wrong. My cable like I said may need to be adjusted again because I bought a new one after I replaced everything. So guys, what are some signs that I need to buy a new push rod? Are they a pain in the ass? Should I just have my mechanic do it for I was thinking $100?
  11. im trying to replace my clutch plates and my crank case cover will not come off its stuck above the oil filter the whole case is open expect above the oil filter. I've tried hammering around the case I hammered the metal studs around the case to slowly open it but the one stud broke don't want to break the case I need help I want to ride!!!
  12. I purchased a 2004 yamaha yz250f in non running condition with a bunch of new parts including new friction plates, discs, and springs (basket is in good shape without really any grooves). I got the bike running. The clutch is hard to squeeze in and has a weird feel to it. When u start the bike up and put it into gear it stalls instantly even when warm. New clutch cable and the plates are in right with a friction plate at the beginning in end. Adjusting the cable didn't help.
  13. Hey guys, Background: I was riding my dirt bike and it was running great. I went to pull in my clutch, and it took about half of a pull for it to even engage. I realized the issue and kept riding, but about one minute later i had lost my clutch completely. it was all slack, as if there wasn't even a cable connected. if i came to a stop in first gear with my clutch lever all the way in against my handlebar, it would stall out as if i wasn't holding the lever at all. A stretched/frayed cable was my first thought, but upon digging deeper into the problem i am rather certain it is nothing lever/cable related. First i drained my trans oil, no metal chucks, shards, nothing came out. Then I took off my flywheel cover, and removed the necessary components to remove my Clutch Lifter Lever. Surely i thought i was going to find that the pin had broken where it pushes on the Lifter Rod, but that was not the case either. I removed the clutch cover, and nothing was abnormal. I have the correct amount of steel/fiber plates in the correct order, none are cracked. None of the bolts/springs were loose on the Pressure Plate, and neither was the lock nut holding on the clutch basket (which also has the lock washer and thrust washer trapped behind it). The Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter seem to be in correct condition. My buddy was even generous to let me tear apart his same exact bike and compare the Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter, which checked out to be the same, except his clutch works great while mine doesn't. I did not check his Lifter Lever because of the hassle it is to take that off and set the timing again after etc. I have had multiple people check that all of the components were in there, and checked with my manual at least a dozen times. Everything is there. There are five pictures below, the first two are pictures of my Lifter Lever. I have ordered a used one of these in hopes that it could somehow solve the issue, even though nothing seems to be wrong. Our best guess is the pin that comes in contact with the Lifter Rod spun, but it is not loose by any means and does show any visual signs of that happening. The third picture shows the distance between the Clutch Lifter and the surface of the Pressure Plate which i measured with my calipers and is .150" The fourth photo shows how far I need to lift my lifter lever up in order to remove the slop and start to disengage the clutch. I have almost no travel, because the Lifter Lever comes in contact with the casing (about 1/8 inch gap between the two in picture). In picture five, this is where the Clutch Lifter should be, which is .040" from surface to surface. To my understanding, there is .110" of slop between all of these components, but everything seems in the right condition, and no signs of broken pieces. The fifth picture is how the manual and my buddies bike shows it to be, and how i believe mine should be. Does the orientation of the pin on the clutch lifter lever look correct? it seemed to compared to the pictures i googled. I am completely stumped. Has anyone had similar issues? Please let me know if you need better clarification, its a very hard problem to describe over a post. Thanks in advance. Austin
  14. Hello, i have bought few weeks ago a clutch lever of MIDWEST for my ktm enduro 690 2008 year , after the replacement i have notice that the shifting is not as smooth as it was with the original shift. time to time it can be hard for a second to shift a gear but a quick release and pressure will resolve it , it may be my squeeze strength but i have no such experience with the old original clutch level of magura . anyway the old cluch lever was having a spring attached to it , in the instruction of the new clutch there is a statement to disregard the spring from the setup. may it be that the old clutch was more smooth because of it ? also when adjusting the midwest clutch lever i notice that if i squeeze the bolt in the front to much my clutch start slipping at high speed as it was squeezed . my question would be : is anyone experience such problems or similar with that clutch lever (it seems like it not fully COMPATIBLE with the bike) ? i own ktm enduro 690 , 2008 model
  15. Time Left: 7 days and 14 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    CLAKE one light clutch $350 shipped http://www.clake.com.au/onelightclutch/

    $350.00

  16. I bought my 2009 Yz250f about 5 months ago and it is my first bike. When i bought it had a rekluse clutch in it and the previous owner took very good care of it and gave me the stock clutch along with the bike. But now i want to challenge myself a bit more with the stock clutch. I was wondering if it is going to be hard to remove the rekluse clutch and put the new clutch in? Am I going to need to buy any new parts? Thanks!!
  17. Wasn't sure wether or not to post this in the off-road or mx but whatever. so, when i'm trying to shift my bike (ktm with the hydrolic auto adjusting clutch) i use all my fingers which is a habit i'm trying to get out of. but when i only use two or one finger i can't pull the lever in to the bars. so now the main question IS IT OKAY TO NOT PULL THE LEVER ALL THE WAY TO THE BARS WHEN SHIFTING?
  18. I recently bought a used yz85 2002, runs well starts first kick every time, but i've noticed it has a problem with the clutch. When i pull the clutch in and start it while in gear it grabs and will drive as if im not touching the clutch. So i held the bike in place with clutch in and kept revving it and then it worked and idled, but then i let go of clutch and it stayed slipping and would not drive at all till i stopped the bike and went to neutral and back to first. I dont know what the problem is, my friend told me i have weak clutch springs and to replace it but someone online said that there might be grooves in the basket, please help though Ive never heard of a problem or had a problem like this with any of my bikes. thanks, payten.
  19. Time Left: 4 days and 23 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking to pick up a Clake two or pro lever, thanks for reading.

    $999.00

  20. So I ordered new clutch plates and springs for my 1986 Kx 80 and today I tried to change them. The clutch cover came off fine, however the bolt in the centre of the clutch WILL NOT BUDGE. I've tried ratchets, torque bars, and multiple impacts. The Bolt either doesn't move or the impact jumps off the head of the bolt, I need any suggestions or help. I will leave a picture of the manual page about the clutch if that helps you guys understand, thanks.
  21. what should i consider before buying a used recluse clutch !? in https://rekluse.com/ you can find the product which is suitable for your bike model and then looked for the same model used one !? i have found a second hand rekluse clutch ( z-start pro ) which has been used on a 2009 suzuki rmz450 . what should i check before buying and installing it on my bike (2011 yz450f) . is it just ok to take it out from another bike and do the clutch spring adjustment and use it on my bike !? Or they are designed specifically for each manufacture !? ?
  22. Hey guys, been reading the forum for some time, as i started riding a wr450f 2008 a year ago. My clutch is veryy graby so i took it apart and filed the basket and boss grooves and did the swiss cheese mod to the boss. Now the thing is that i want to assemble it back and I cant get the basket to enter enough to lock basket and boss with the nut. Is there a trick to put the basket right?
  23. I noticed today that there is some play in the clutch arm on my 2004 KX250. It moves maybe 1/8 inch up out of the case. No side to side movement and the clutch seems to be engaging fine. I tried taking the clutch basket out and looking at things but everything seemed to be okay. Maybe I'm not looking for the right things? Any idea as to why this may be happening? Thanks for the input!
  24. Looking for some help. I bought this bike blown up, rebuilt and bought new parts and put it all together but used the clutch that came with it. The bike runs really good. I went for the first ride and few days ago after some heat cycles and was just putting around my yard. When I first set off the clutch was working as it should, smooth feel at the lever, no lurching as I put it in gear or anything out of the ordinary. When I stopped and went to set off again tho, the bike tried to jump as I put it in gear and then the grab at the lever was gone. The clutch won't disengage. Has anyone else had a similar issue? I have been reading and many people said this was due to the plates sticking or grooves worn into the basket. When putting mine together I used a diagram and am quite sure it is together as it should be and the basket is not grooved. Could this be due to the oil? I was using 10w40 Castrol, should I try some atf type f? It's like there is suddenly more space between the pressure plate and the plates, I don't get it
  25. I'd like to say that I really appreciate all the help from this forum. It is amazing. I tried searching for a previous post on this problem and cure but didn't find a match. Found something close which leads me to think that the fix will be more costly. So I'm asking to see if there's a chance at making this easier and less costly. My son's yz 85 recently had a problem with the clutch not disengaging. Checked the cable and it moved freely but noticed the push lever wasn't always returning back with the spring action. The spring looked intact. Thought there might be something in the clutch keeping it from moving back. Not sure what would do that but took it apart anyway. Everything inside looks good. The plates, fibers, basket, hub both push rods, ball. Some wear on the fibers but good. With every thing out the push lever still wouldn't move freely. So on the left side I took the chain cover off and see that the chain must have gotten so loose that it started to hit the crankcase where the push lever is. I guess it's pushed the case in enough that it's binding the lever. Whose case is I have to change the crankcase. Has anyone ever experienced this and is there an easier/ less expensive fix? I haven't tried to remove the push lever yet. From other posts it sounds like it should come out fairly easy. Thanks for all the help!