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Found 269 results

  1. I had a problem with my bike yesterday and need some insight. I have a 2012 Husky te310 with under 6,000 miles. Mostly used off-road. I've read about all of the clutch issues. Here's what happened. Last Saturday I road all day on trails in 90+ degree humid weather. Bike performed great. I did notice some clutch drag in 1st gear when stopped and difficulty finding neutral unless I blip the throttle. On Tuesday I rode the bike to work on mostly highway. Another warm day, but not as bad. On the way home I was cruising at about 55 mph, which is high revs for this bike, and all of sudden I get a Fail message on the dash and the bike feels a little rough. I slow down and take the next exit. When I pull in the clutch, there is no pressure, it just moves to the grip. However, I can still shift, both up and down but am afraid to stop. Eventually I have to stop and the bike stalls. It won't restart. I push it off the road into a shady area and get of. I hear a weird noise coming from the clutch cover - like gurgling. I let it sit for maybe two minutes and turn on the key. No fail warning and the bike starts right up. Clutch seems fine and I ride home. Today it seems back to normal, but I didn't ride it. What's going on? Just a worn clutch? Over heated? Low hydraulic fluid? The fluid is to the top. I saw no leakage around the clutch cover. Please share your thoughts or ideas. Thanks.
  2. About 6 months ago my bike started acting up. I found it hard to get the bike in neutral while it was running. No matter how I adjusted the clutch. Sometimes it would get better but only for a day or two. The clutch got harder to pull as well. I then read on here to replace the clutch cable before trying to fix anything else and that solved my problem for about 4 weeks. Nice and light clutch pull, gearing wasn't clunky and I could get to neutral with no hassle. The past week the clutch pull stiffened up so much that I think I pulled a tendon in my finger from riding it. Neutral issue is back and worse. I can adjust the cable so that I can get the bike in neutral at least but my hand is taking a beating. So apart from a new cable. What would be the next step in trying to fix this problem? It's making riding really miserable.
  3. Hey, I have a question. But first let me tell you that I am new to dirt biking, so I don't know anything. I purchased a 2001 YZ 125 in October and the seller said that he just changed the Piston and Clutch. I took it out in Gorman (OHV Riding Area) and like I said I am new, so I kept stalling the bike because I was learning and just let go of the clutch. But then when my dad got on, he said it is my fault for just letting go of the clutch lever, but also the clutch plates are a little bad. I can start the bike, let the clutch out 90%, and ride. Like shouldn't it start to move when I am half way of letting go of the clutch lever? I've seen videos of people holding their clutch lever half way and are moving 10-15mph. I can ride it perfectly fine now... But just wondering, what's wrong with it?
  4. Was out for a short ride today to try out my new proshotcam gopro mount and on the way back, close to home luckily, the bike (2015 yz250f) acted like I accidentally clicked it into neutral. Thinking this was the case I pulled in the clutch and clicked down to first, and went to start going again and it revved with out moving, or barely moving if that, hard to tell I was in sand. So I shut off the bike and while there I tried to click it into a different gear or neutral which didn't work the first couple tries then it did but felt different than normal. When the bike was in gear it could be rolled without the clutch in but made a funny noise coming from the tranny area. The bike seemed fine in neutral so I started it. It idled fine and revved fine, all normal noises. Then upon clicking it into gear it started to make a funny noise in the tranny area again so I just shut it off right away. So it shifts into gears fine but will not engage the engine and the wheel, so it won't drive. I'm going to split the cases and see what the problem is, but was just wondering if anyone had any idea. Something wrong with the gears, shift fork, shift cam, or did the tranny bearings go? Thanks
  5. Hey guys, been reading the forum for some time, as i started riding a wr450f 2008 a year ago. My clutch is veryy graby so i took it apart and filed the basket and boss grooves and did the swiss cheese mod to the boss. Now the thing is that i want to assemble it back and I cant get the basket to enter enough to lock basket and boss with the nut. Is there a trick to put the basket right?
  6. Hi all! This is my first post on the forum so sorry if I'm in the wrong thread. I pulled a 2002 cr80 off the beach that I found abandon there and I recently got it running, but the clutch needs to be replaced/fixed. I can get all of the screws for the clutch cover off but one is behind the foot peg so I can't get a ratchet or wrench back there. Any ideas?
  7. So I took my txc to the sand dunes for the first time and I made sure that my bike was ready, by that I mean antifreeze was checked, air filter cleaned and so on. But when I was riding there my bike was overheating in the first 20 minutes. The fan was working it's butt off and I could hear a swishing noise when I put my ear up to the radiator which I don't know if that is normal. Also my clutch wouldn't engage so I couldn't shift when I was riding but as soon as I stopped the bike died and the clutch would engage again. And my friends bike was doing just fine, his fan didn't even turn on and I want to know if anyone else with Husqvarna is having the same problems or even anyone with the same model?
  8. I just installed a new Radius Rekluse clutch on my 2016 Beta 350RR. I'm having trouble adjusting the Free Play Gain so that I can use engine braking. Either I get too much free play or or not enough. I recently installed the same clutch on my KTM 530 and I can get the engine braking so I know it can be done. Any tips? should I use the heavier springs in the Rekluse disc pack?
  9. I'd like to say that I really appreciate all the help from this forum. It is amazing. I tried searching for a previous post on this problem and cure but didn't find a match. Found something close which leads me to think that the fix will be more costly. So I'm asking to see if there's a chance at making this easier and less costly. My son's yz 85 recently had a problem with the clutch not disengaging. Checked the cable and it moved freely but noticed the push lever wasn't always returning back with the spring action. The spring looked intact. Thought there might be something in the clutch keeping it from moving back. Not sure what would do that but took it apart anyway. Everything inside looks good. The plates, fibers, basket, hub both push rods, ball. Some wear on the fibers but good. With every thing out the push lever still wouldn't move freely. So on the left side I took the chain cover off and see that the chain must have gotten so loose that it started to hit the crankcase where the push lever is. I guess it's pushed the case in enough that it's binding the lever. Whose case is I have to change the crankcase. Has anyone ever experienced this and is there an easier/ less expensive fix? I haven't tried to remove the push lever yet. From other posts it sounds like it should come out fairly easy. Thanks for all the help!
  10. Looking for some help. I bought this bike blown up, rebuilt and bought new parts and put it all together but used the clutch that came with it. The bike runs really good. I went for the first ride and few days ago after some heat cycles and was just putting around my yard. When I first set off the clutch was working as it should, smooth feel at the lever, no lurching as I put it in gear or anything out of the ordinary. When I stopped and went to set off again tho, the bike tried to jump as I put it in gear and then the grab at the lever was gone. The clutch won't disengage. Has anyone else had a similar issue? I have been reading and many people said this was due to the plates sticking or grooves worn into the basket. When putting mine together I used a diagram and am quite sure it is together as it should be and the basket is not grooved. Could this be due to the oil? I was using 10w40 Castrol, should I try some atf type f? It's like there is suddenly more space between the pressure plate and the plates, I don't get it
  11. Hello all, I am attempting to reverse bleed my KTM's clutch per the advice of a few forum posts (syringe filled with fluid going straight into slave cylinder bleeder), and due to normal bleeding not having any noticeable effect on my clutch feel. I have run in to a bit of a problem however, when trying to force new fluid through the slave cylinder bleeder it is completely stopped. I had that maybe my lever was still partially engaging the clutch so, I adjusted the lever outwards and tried again; still did not allow fluid through. I removed the lever; still did not allow fluid through. Removed the master cylinder's plunger; still would not allow fluid through. After these did not work, I removed the slave from my bike repeated the above steps, and it still was locked up. At this point I'm assuming it is a slave cylinder issue so I decided to do things the old fashioned way and just use anger fueled force. With the bleeder CLOSED and the master cylinder still completely taken apart, I've tried pushing on the slave cylinder itself and it barely moves. However, I do notice some air bubbles appearing in the reservoir when doing so (virtually no fluid flow though). When the bleeder is OPEN and I try pushing on the slave cylinder, fluid comes flying out of the bleeder (as expected I suppose). Also, when I try staring at my bike and waiting for it to fix itself, nothing happens. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance guys/girls.
  12. I purchased a 2018 TX 300 in November and I been hearing about the magura slave cylinder failure on FE/FC/FX 450/501 but I was wondering if the 2 stroke models were having the same problems
  13. When my bike is not running, I noticed if I put my bike in gear and squeeze the clutch all the way in and roll the bike, the clutch is not fully disengaging and it is turning the engine over. Last week I took it out for a ride and noticed I also cannot start it in gear without giving it a good amount of throttle and if I stop in gear with the clutch squeezed all the way in, the bike will stall. I have no clutch slippage issues or any other problems I can recognize other than the clutch not fully disengaging. I figured it was likely a stretched cable and they're cheap so I put a new motion pro cable in this morning and adjusted it properly and I'm still having the same issue, I have not rode the bike with the new cable but I put it in 1st gear and tried to roll it with the clutch squeezed all the way and it was still turning the engine. What else could be my problem???
  14. Hey all, I'm new to this forum. I bought a 2001 CR250 a couple weeks ago, and it worked great. I bought a new clutch lever off of ebay and installed it. The lever must have been a wrong one, because I no longer had any free play. The lever was clamped tight against the perch, and even after I loosened it all the way (from both adjustment points) it would not loosen up. I took it off and installed the stock lever again, but there is now almost no free play again. The hand adjusted one is almost as far as it goes, and the other one is adjusted as far as it goes. I have enough free play, but I can't loosen it out any more. Also, since putting the stock lever back on, when I try to start the bike in first gear (with the clutch lever pulled all the way in) the bike pulls forwards fairly hard. Why does it do this?? I don't get why it worked perfectly before, but now it's all wack. Any help is appreciated.
  15. I had a moment of jackass and broke a dog off my clutch basket on my RT180 trying to break the crank nut. To my utter disappointment there are none of these available online that doesnt come without the whole engine. So what can I do? I guess I'll stitch it back together let the chips fall. Anyone ever do this? or would you?
  16. 49cc lifan clone clutch is stuck and electric start isn’t able to start engine. Drains oil and removed cover. Now how to pull clutch. Anyone have a rebuild video? Just for the record the screw adjustment on the cover was lose when I got it. When I pulled the part that was attached with the three screws. The gasket on the back of that part seemed torn. Is this needed to build some pressure? This bike is a single gear automatic with no clutch levers.
  17. Do the Hinson Clutch covers scratch up and wear out easy? Looking to buy one just don't want it to scratch all to hell after the first ride since it is pretty pricy. Thanks.
  18. i have a 2004 yz450f and i am having issues with my clutch, i have to float the gears to ride it because the clutch wont work at all, i dont know whats wrong with it, i tore apart the clutch basket and all the friction plates look fine
  19. Whats up everybody, Just want to hear everyones preference on clutches. My clutch is gone, and in looking to replace am trying to figure out OEM vs Aftermarket. I see a lot of good things about Barnett but would love to hear about what TT riders think. I am a woods/trail rider and will probably never do MX, which I am not sure would affect which clutch would be best for me. Thanks homies
  20. Hello all. straight into it. I bought a 02 yz 250 a few months ago, got it home and realized it wouldn't stay in first gear. i stripped it down and replaced the 3 shift forks. Got it all back together but it still popped into neutral. The clutch fibers and plates were all stuck together so i replaced those and its still doing it. Ive got a arc perch and lever coming just because the one on there is a cheap piece of greatness from china. Any ideas on what could be causing this issue. Im at a loss. attached are pictures of the progress. And i added a couple pics of it together just because who doesnt like looking at a beautiful dirt bike.
  21. I am in the process of replacing the clutch plates and springs on my 2014 YZ450. I noticed that there are quite a few visible grooves /notches on the hub and basket. What do you guys think, are they bad enough that I should replace both parts? I dont want to ruin new plates but also dont really want to drop alot of money on hub and basket, if i dont need it. Thanks!
  22. Hey guys, more 85 CR250 talk! So my clutch has been a total B**** to pull riding and I swapped out clutch cables, and while better wasnt great. When i pulled the clutch/waterpump cover off to check corrosion (see my radiator talk thread) I also checked the clutch. The previous owner threw in an aftermarket clutch pack with those BS tight springs and i saved the plates and swapped to OEM. The outer clutch basket was pretty grooved (1-2 mm valleys) and i took my file and ground them smooth. I reinstalled everything and when i operate the clutch im noticing that the 2 most outer plates are the only ones actuating. Is this just cuz theres no load right now, or did i install them wrong/or really eff up the basket with my file hackjob.
  23. I just bought a 2005 Honda crf250 and I replaced the motor oil but the old motor oil had really small dirt/grit looking stuff in it, it wasn’t magnetic or anything nor did it look like copper. I’m thinking it’s clutch but I’m not sure, I’m not sure what it is so I really need help you can kinda see in the second photo what I’m talking about. the clutch lever was setup really weird where the person riding before me definitely burnt some plates PLEASE HELP
  24. Just bought a 2000 KX 250 two-stroke for a great deal when looking for a project bike. When I put the bike in neutral which is a little hard to find, it jumps into first gear by itself and trys to takeoff no matter if I squeeze the clutch lever or not. When I first started the bike it basically did a burnout in my garage with no throttle applied and the clutch lever pressed then it just stalls out eventually this happened for about five seconds. Attached are some pictures of my clutch disk and clutch basket from what I researched today the basket should not look this bad , but do you guys think? Is the clutch the source of my problems or is it something internal and would I need to split the case.
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