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Found 35 results

  1. My bike has been running noticibly hot latley, then I noticed my coolant was low. This is the first time I've had to change coolant on my Yz450f and I'm not sure what I should go with. I have some Preston 50/50 lying around, but I'm not sure how safe that is for my bike. I've heard good things about engine ice and water wetter, but I want something that is available locally. Also, I live in south Florida where it is always hot, so I don't need a coolant that goes very low below freezing. Thanks for the help.
  2. Hey guys Recently took out my 2005 WR450 for a few hours and came back, parked up, all was fine and have left it for 2 weeks. I went back to the bike today and the oil is very milky and the coolant bottle empty. I started to drain the oil and fill up the coolant but to my amazement the coolant was going down so quickly it was actually pouring straight out of the oil sump.... So my question is, what could be the problem? maybe broken seals or gaskets somewhere? Thanks
  3. Good evening all. Ever since I got my drz, I could always smell the faint smell of something sweet and I couldn't quite pinpoint it. Later on I found something sticky and sweet smelling down by where the water pump seal is and it clicked that the smell is probably coolant. Correct me if I'm wrong. Anyways, when doing an oil change, I notice that the oil itself smells sweet as well. When I check the rads, they are a little low but don't have any oil mixed into it or milkyness as far as I can tell. So my question is this. Other then a leaky head gasket, how else if at all, could coolant get into my oil?
  4. Working on my buddy’s 2017 Ktm 250xc-f. With 67 hrs on it. For a while now we’ve been smelling coolant . We saw a drip near hoses above exhaust. So we tighten up or replaced anything that looked bad. .. just last night he started it and we smelled again so we looked closely and noticed it leaking from the valve cover gasket . I pulled the cover and there was traces of coolant all around cams and can caps. Not leaking bad enough to make oil milky though or doesn’t look very low in rads after 1 ride. I was assuming head gasket so we tore it down but I’m now seeing any imperfections that stand out. Anyone got any ideas ???
  5. K so I am getting so frustrated with this bike? the problem is when I looked down at my piston with a camera there was absolutely no carbon buildup on the piston and it still looks new. What could cause this? The bike is a 2001 cr80r. (Thanks)
  6. Hello. My CRF450R 2011 have leaking (oil with coolant) from water pump drainage hole: I install new mechanical seal (7), oil seal (16) and new bearing (15): Filled new coolant and run my bike, all was fine, but after 15 minutes I got heavy coolant leaking: Disassembled again and noticed that "head" of mechanical seal is disconnected: What's can be wrong? Looks like problem with slight tightening (torque) (12 N/m) of impeller (part #6)? Sorry for my bad English.
  7. Hi All, I'm a new to the bike, it's a 2010 450 RR. I'm looking to change to Evans waterless coolant. (Side note: I'm hoping it'll run a little cooler.) I'm not sure where the drain bolt is. Can anyone tell me where to find it? Thanks, Chris.
  8. I've been using EVENS water-less Coolant since i started riding and loved them. I just bought a new bottle of the same stuff and i'm comparing what both the old stuff looks like and the new stuff. the dirty bottle and yellow coolant has been through two years of use. the clear stuff and clean bottle are brand new and never used. It's pretty crazy to see how much dirt and abuse the old coolant has gone through. At this point i'm wondering if it is still as strong as brand new coolant? or if it's damaged. EVENS says they will outlast your bike. At the end of the day i'd rather that clear stuff going in my 450 rather then the yellow stuff :/ What do you guys think? Do you think it still stands up to brand new EVENS coolant or do you think it's lost some of it's touch?
  9. This month I want to discuss three easy ways to improve engine cooling for your dirt bike or ATV and explain why they are effective. As improvements are made to an engine that increase its power, the amount of heat the engine will create will also increase. Effectively removing heat from the engine and cooling it is very important as the power output of the engine goes up. The cooler an engine runs, the more power it can produce. There are three ways that the aftermarket attempts to improve the cooling system of a particular engine. 1. Increase flow through the cooling system. 2. Increase the cooling capacity of the radiators. 3. Increase the pressure of the cooling system. Let's dive in. 1. Increase flow through the cooling system The flow through the cooling system can be increased by installing a water pump impeller designed to increase the flow rate of the coolant. The reason increasing the flow rate of coolant works is because the rate of heat transfer from the engine to the cooling system is directly proportional to the mass flow rate of coolant. This is thermodynamics jargon, but there are two key parts to consider. First, how much coolant is flowing, and second, at what speed the coolant is flowing. The more coolant that flows and the faster it flows will reduce the temperature difference between the point where the coolant enters into the engine and where it exits. This next part is not quite as intuitive. When the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet is reduced, the average coolant temperature is lowered. When the average coolant temperature is lowered the engine will run cooler. This is why fitting a water pump, which increases the flow of coolant through the engine, improves cooling. 2. Increase the cooling capacity of the radiators Radiators consist of a series of tubes and fins which run from the top to the bottom of the radiator. These are often referred to as the radiator’s cores. As coolant enters the radiator it moves through the series of tubes and heat is transferred from the coolant to the fins. Air passes over the fins and heat is transferred from the fins to the air. This transfer of heat from coolant to air is how radiators reduce the temperature of the coolant. Coolant temperatures can be reduced by upgrading radiators in three ways, by increasing the frontal area of the radiators, by making the radiators thicker, or by using materials with better heat transfer properties for the cores. For all practical purposes, increasing the radiators’ frontal area and improving the core materials is rarely a viable option for dirt bike applications. This is because there is little room for the radiators to begin with and they are susceptible to damage, making the use of expensive core materials a risky affair. Unfortunately, both of these options are better improvements to make before resorting to increasing the thickness of the radiators. Increasing the thickness of a radiator is not as efficient of an improvement as increasing the frontal area of the radiator. In order for thicker radiators to cool more effectively than their stock counterparts, airflow past the radiators is key. When the thickness of a radiator is increased, air must travel a greater distance through the radiator before exiting. The speed the air is traveling plays a big role in determining how quickly the air heats up as it moves through the radiator. If the air is not traveling fast enough through the radiator, the air temperature will rise and equal the coolant temperature before reaching the end of the radiator. Once this happens, heat transfer stops and whatever portion of the radiator remains will not help with cooling. In order for a thicker radiator to be effective, air must flow quickly enough through it so that the exiting air temperature is at, or better yet, below the coolant temperature. In conclusion, benefits from adding thicker radiators will be more prominent in applications where speeds are relatively high. Whereas in applications where the bike is hardly moving, improved cooling may not be noticeable. 3. Increase the pressure of the cooling system The last alteration to the cooling system that can be made is to install a high pressure radiator cap. As coolant temperature increases, pressure increases inside the cooling system. The radiator cap is designed to be the pressure release point in the cooling system in the event that too much pressure builds up. This can occur as a result of overheating or a blown head gasket for example. By designing the radiator cap to be the weak link in the system, other parts of the system, such as seals, don’t end up getting damaged from being over pressurized. The radiator cap features a plug and spring on its underside. The spring is designed to compress once a certain pressure is reached, at which point the plug will move upwards and uncover a pressure release hole where excess pressure will be vented. The coolant’s boiling point and ability to conduct heat are necessary factors in understanding why a high pressure radiator cap can help improve engine cooling. Water alone boils at 212°F (100°C) while a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze boils at 223°F (106.1C). Radiator cap pressure designations are usually advertised in bar, with most stock radiator caps designed to withstand pressures up to 1.1 bar (16psi). The more pressure a fluid is under, the more difficult it becomes for the fluid to vaporize, and the higher its boiling point becomes. When water is under 1.1 bar of pressure, the temperature water will boil at is 260°F (127°C) while a 50/50 antifreeze mix will boil at 271°F (133°C). By installing a radiator cap designed to withstand higher pressures, an additional increase in the coolant’s boiling point will be seen. High pressure caps are usually designed to withstand 1.3 bar (19psi) of pressure. This 0.2 bar (3psi) increase in pressure over the stock system will increase the boiling point of water or antifreeze by 8.7°F (4.83°C). This will then bring the boiling point of pure water or a 50/50 antifreeze mix to approximately 269°F (132°C) and 280°F (138°C) respectively. While this small temperature increase alone won’t do a lot for your engine, coupling a high pressure cap and using coolants with better heat transfer properties can do wonders. Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) alone is not an inherently good conductor of heat. In fact, pure antifreeze conducts heat about half as well as water, while a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water conducts heat approximately three quarters as efficiently as pure water. This means a cooling system using a 50/50 mix of antifreeze would have to flow faster than a cooling system filled with pure distilled water in order to achieve the same cooling efficiency. What this means for you is significant cooling gains can be made by using distilled water and an additive called “Water Wetter” in place of an antifreeze-water mix. Water Wetter is an additive that improves water’s “wetting” abilities (another whole subject), adds corrosion resistance, and slightly increases the boiling point of water. A high pressure radiator cap in conjunction with distilled water and Water Wetter as the coolant is by far the best route to go for high performance applications where freezing is not an issue. For applications which must still be resistant to freezing, the antifreeze-water ratio can be altered in favor of mixtures incorporating more water than antifreeze so that the cooling efficiency of the mixture is improved. Just bear in mind the freezing point of the mixture as it is thinned with water will be reduced, so you will need to pay close attention to the environment you are operating in so that the coolant is never susceptible to freezing. A frozen coolant system can ruin an engine and makes for a very bad day! I hope you enjoyed this post on three easy ways to improve your engine’s cooling. One more thing before I wrap up! April is Autism Awareness month, and here at DIY Moto Fix we couldn't be more excited to announce that we will be donating 15% of all profits made in April to AutismMX. If you haven't heard of AutismMX, this amazing non-profit brings Autism awareness to the motorcross community. Founder, Matthew Dalton, created this non-profit after finding that motorcross was an amazing way to connect with his autistic son. At DIY Moto Fix this non-profit also touches a chord with us. Our filmmaker and photographer, Kelsey Jorissen, loved dirt biking with her autistic brother throughout their childhood. The Autism MX Project focuses on four areas: Autism MX Day Camps are days for ASD kids and families to have the chance to ride AMX’s little dirt bikes and quads and enjoy the sport of motocross. Team Autism MX Sponsoring amateur MX racers, riders as well as sponsoring AMA pro racers. Through doing so, they are getting out the word on Autism Awareness to millions. AMX Puzzle Piece Apparel from shirts, graphics, goggles, to help stand out and support Autism Awareness. AMX Ride Days for Autism Awareness AMX celebrates Autism Awareness and is a fundraiser for The Autism MX Project. So for the entire month of April - if you buy a book, a video, even a poster - 15% of that purchase will go towards AutismMX and their amazing cause. Thanks for reading and have a great rest of your week!
  10. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone-Extended-Life-Prediluted-Antifreeze-Coolant/16879961?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227017563295&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40840067792&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-78653338832&wl5=9007323&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16879961&wl13=&veh=sem is this coolant good to use in a drz400?
  11. hey so i encountered a problem so i drained all the coolant, and checked the valves on the bike and it was all in clearance, put it all together filled up the coolant, fired up, let it sit in the garage for a bit noticed coolant leaked out the over flow and i went ahead and topped it off and let it sit for a while and i just looked at it there was what looked like probably most of the coolant that was in the bike on the floor anyone have any idea what i should do next? the store is closed so i can't buy anymore coolant atm i use engine ice.
  12. I’m new to this forum, I recently bought a 2009 CRF450R. The bike is in reasonably good condition, and supposedly has around 30 hours on an engine rebuild. While the bike is running there seems to be coolant very slowly seeping it’s way out between the left side case cover, and the engine. At the top, right by the head (not from the head). Now my first thought would be to take off the left side case cover, and ispect the gasket and surfaces. However this is my first 4-stroke and my big question is, why is there coolant there at all? As I said all I’ve had in the past are two-strokes so any input from you four-stroke guys is much appreciated.
  13. I recently replaced water pump and seal after I noticed that my '02 CRF450R was spilling coolant on easy trail rides. After the water pump swap (which was successful), I noticed the same problem. It's interesting - the bike only spits coolant (I mean a LOT of coolant) after passing anything above 1/2 throttle. The bike makes this weird 'gurgling' noise, like trying to suck through a straw when your glass is almost empty. This is weird because I properly bled/ burped the radiators with coolant, and filled them to normal operating levels. The coolant spills through overflow hose. anyways - I swapped the radiator because I thought maybe the bike was running hot. I purchased oversized radiators, bought a 1.6 radiator cap (with a temp gauge) and bought engine ice. The bike runs very very cool - the temp gauge allows me to see this. Still, the bike shoots coolant out of the overflow after going above half throttle, making the same weird gurgling noise when it does. Bike has all of its power, top end was replaced not too long ago. I'm lost and don't know what is wrong with the cooling system in my bike. How do I make the bike stop shooting out coolant, and stop making the weird gurgle noise??? Any advice would help me!!! Thank you!👍
  14. I was sitting in class daydreaming about my bike when it occurred to me; Why haven't I seen more people running two radiator fans for hard enduro? I mean it's a bit overkill and might take away from learning to be a more efficient rider but there have to be people out there who do it? I might be mistaken. Is it for electrical reasons, or is it just not necessary? Just a thought...
  15. So, looking for a little wisdom. I just rebuilt my bike last night and finished at 12:30 this morning. Last night i wanted to make sure i could get the bike to fire up and make sure everything is okay and begin the break in. As luck would have it, the HG is leaking coolant. what would y'all recommend i do. I have a cosmetic gasket because i have a cylinder works 269cc. P.S. it was running for 15 minuets with me modulating the throttle when i noticed it. It was a VERY small little line but its still leaking coolant with less than 20 minutes in the the motor. Thanks -Brandon
  16. Hello, today I started to do further research on my issue. I have a 04 yz250f and I feel as if it’s overheating I say this because when the bike is in nuetral coasting or idle coolant flows out the overflow. So now I’m pretty sure I know what’s wrong and it’s that I’m too lean the bike backfires on deceleration but the throttle response is perfect. Also, the motor seems to remain at high rpms after the clutch is engaged. I took the carb apart and this is what I found. (I do trail riding, I know the radiators are getting enough air flow I’m not going slow enough for that to be the issue that’s what I think at least) Main jet—178 pilot jet-72 Jet needle groove position-4th down Pilot Screw Adjustment- The bike stays running at about 2 turns out but to have more throttle control best would be 3-3.5 basically all the way out. P.s I’m not very familiar with these carbs so if you can leave some information on how theses things work and what I should do, the bike starts up first kick clutch engages every time the bike just gets extremely hot.
  17. I recently bought a 2002 YZ125. I just rebuilt the top end and took it out on the first ride. When I got to the trails and went to unload my bike I noticed some drops on coolant on the bed of my truck and a little bit on the frame.(the bike had not been run at all that day). When I started riding I would check every couple of minutes and noticed it was still happening. just a couple of drips a minute coming from the bleeder hose that runs from the top of the radiator. After a little while I stopped and let the bike cool and checked the coolant level to make sure I wasn't losing too much. After checking I went back to riding and it seemed to have stopped so I figured maybe it just had something to do with the radiator cap and somehow taking it off and putting it back on had solved the problem. However today I had the bike in the bed of my truck and once again found coolant dripping from the bleeder line coming from the top of the radiator(bike had not been running). Has anyone else had this happen? Is it a problem? If so how much is it going to cost
  18. Hi everyone, I have a 2002 YZ250 2 stroke that has recently had its top end replaced (within past 6 hours of riding). After taking it out of the garage to run it, I kicked it over and noticed a coolant leak coming from the cylinder base gasket towards the exhaust port. It had no problems prior to this. Two rides previously it may have been flooded by water a little; however, after a new spark plug and oil change it ran just fine again for another ride. What is your opinions? Should I change the base gasket, rebuild the top end again, or is there a simpler solution that i am missing? Thanks.
  19. I just got done replacing the head gasket and rings on my 2008 ktm exc and when I started it up for the first time it was blowing a lot of white smoke out the exhaust and even continued for a minute after shutting the bike off. I know thats typically a sign of a bad gasket but I just replaced it. I torqued all the bolts down corrrectly and I saw no problem with the head. Could it be something with the water pump? Or maybe i still screwed something up when putting it back together.
  20. I flushed my Suzuki RMZ 250 2006 air coolant to change to a better brand coolant. But when I pour my new coolant in it started leaking out of a air hole under my engine ? I don't know what's wrong or what I did wrong any advice on how to Fix ?
  21. Hello, I have an issue with my 2006 DRZ 400s. This is the first time posting. I have notice that when I am riding my bike at 60 to 75 MPH, I will start to get coolant going into the overflow bottle. In a 3 mile trip at 60 to 65, I will have about 5/8 " of fluid in the overflow bottle. At 40 miles or slower i never get coolant in the bottle. Fan comes on and off. I have checked, Fan works good, T-stat opens when it should, No air pockets in the radiator, did a test on the head gasket at top dead center and its good. Water pump is working good too. check in the radiators and both are clean. Running with the new stock radiator cap with 1.1 bar. The hot light works, but it's never came on. When i let the bike just idle, fan come on and off and i might get a spoon full of fluid in the bottle. I bought this bike used. I do not know if the carburetor as been re-jetted. Please help
  22. I've got a leaking radiator hose on my 1997 Honda CR125R. Could I just swap it out for a piece of garden hose and continue riding for a few hours? My bike isn't here right now, so does anyone know the typical ID of those hoses? I figure the coolant gets to about 200 degrees F, so would a garden hose stand up to those temps?
  23. Hey all, I'm getting ready to install my red silicone hoses. What coolant should I run for all street use? Thx in advance, Ken
  24. Hey everyone. Decided recently to try out Bel-Ray's Thumper synthetic for my next oil change and realized I should probably get some coolant at the same time. I ordered some of their "Moto Chill Racing Coolant" without too much thought. Has anyone had experience with this particular coolant? I keep hearing the bike requires a phosphate free coolant which this has no indication of, only that it is a silicate free propylene glycol mixture safe for magnesium and aluminium components. Any help much appreciated!
  25. All, Another question about my 2001 DRZ400e. As detailed in another thread, I recently got my head back from Fastheads for a valve job. I also installed a new piston and rings while keeping my existing cylinder. The bike finally starts and runs! Initially I noticed a frothy white oily mixture dripping from the end of the valve cover vent hose. I pulled the valve cover and didn't see any issues so I was hoping it was something leftover in the hose prior to the rebuild. I went to drain the oil and it was very thin and almost watery- grey in color. I could not see green coolant in the oil and it wasn't milky white, but it was definitely thin. When I ran it between my fingers you could tell it was watery. I drained the coolant and it had white bubbles in it - no evidence of oil. I also removed the hose off the water pump and again, green coolant with no evidence of oil. No white smoke out of exhaust. Runs clean. The head gasket I used was new as was the base gasket. Before I tear it down again I was hoping for some suggestions. thanks
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