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Found 12 results

  1. here's a video of the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAg_f3MKFBs I apologize in advance for the poor quality. I purchased this DRZ used and immediately I realized how poorly this thing was maintained. I bought it thinking it just needed a carb rebuild, and that certainly is not the case. it runs and idles well following the carb rebuild but I immediately stopped running it when I realized the rads were empty. It had milky oil, and no coolant in the radiators making me think the headgasket is completely shot. I will be replacing the headgasket with an oem suzuki gasket but before I get to that the more pressing issue is that it will not hold coolant even when not running. I have been attempting to fill it with water from the radiator cap. Unfortunately any water I put into it immediately runs through the expansion tank and spills onto the ground. leaving almost nothing left in the radiators. I have checked my clymer's manual and all the hoses appear to be arranged in the correct configuration, however something must be seriously wrong for it to be pissing out all the coolant like this. There are no leaks around the water pump or anywhere else on the bike for that matter. I apologize if I'm missing something simple/stupid here, but I have done research and can find nobody else talking about this specific issue. Tried contacting the previous owner who promptly told me to F*** off. I would appreciate any help or advice.
  2. So I bought a used 2014 Honda CRF450R for my son. Replaced engine oil and gear oil before our first ride, only to discover gear oil was milky and dark grey coming out of the bike. Engine oil was dirty, but fine. Called local shop to ask if the milky grey transmission oil was evidence of coolant in the oil, and they said maybe: change the oil out, go ride for a few hours, and empty oil out again. If oil is just a little grey colored after riding, that can be OK: the steel clutch plates can turn the gear oil a bit grey in color. If it's milky again, they said I've got coolant in the oil -- and first suspect is water pump shaft/bearings/seal. SO, I follow their advice, used Honda oils, and we go for a first ride. 80 degree weather, and got into some gnarly rocks in a canyon (unexpected) at about the two hour mark. Slow speed 1st gear stuff, lots of clutch work to get through some tough sections with boulders, and my son stops and says that clutch seems grabby and he's having a tough time. I get on the bike myself to get it through the section, and see if in fact it's not behaving well, and sure enough the clutch is kinda grabby and seems a little finicky as I try to get it out. Hmmm. Once out, I stop and inspect: bike is dripping same grey colored milky oil through the tranny breather tube onto the dirt. Bike is hot, which could be why clutch is acting up. However, nothing coming out of water pump weep hole, and no coolant drip. We decide to let the bikes cool down, and after enough time I open radiator cap and sure enough the coolant is low, not even showing coolant at top of fins. I assume there's a coolant leak mixing into the transmission oil, so we ease the bikes back to the trailer and head home. Here's where it gets interesting. Tonite I drained both the engine oil and transmission oil. Both looked completely fine, fresh and barely dirty. No milky grey color gear oil, not milky at all. Inspected clutch plates, they look fine too. I then pulled the water pump cover and the propeller off, and while I didn't pull the engine case off and inspect the water pump shaft (because kick start lever was frozen on and I couldn't get off), shaft did not appear loose to me. It could be leaking coolant through seals, I suppose - but if it was, the gear oil would be milky again (right?)... which it wasn't. So - I've concluded, correctly or incorrectly, that the milky oil from the engine case breather tube (emptying out below swing arm) that was dropping milky oil on the ground in the canyon was residue leftover from old oil getting pushed through the tube. I've assumed this because new tranny oil was clean and not milky or grey colored. I'm not sure where else it would have come from, since both engine oil and transmission oil were like new... but I'm scratching my head as to where the coolant went, why the loss. I checked the coolant level before we rode, and it was just above the radiator fins before we started, but was below fins after our ride. Anyone have suggestions or ideas? I'm not sure where to go from here... thanks for any advice you can offer. (I'm not much of a mechanic, pretty inexperienced, and maybe the problem is obvious to those with more experience).
  3. What’s up everyone. So I know this has been touched on a lot. I’ve read lots of different forums but can’t quite find an answer to my problem. So I’m fairly new to the riding world. I’ve always rode friends bikes a couple times a year on camping trips or occasional weekends. I’ve never owned my own bike til now. I’m by all means a novice rider. I’ve recently purchased an 07 CRF450R. Probably not the best beginners bike but I couldn’t pass the deal. Anyways I’m having issues with the bike overheating. I’m assuming it’s because I’m riding trails that are pretty tight and like I said I’m a new rider and not riding as fast as a more experienced rider would. Therefor I imagine the radiators aren’t getting the proper air flow. That being said is there anything I can do or add to help stop my bike from puking all the coolant out of the overflow tube? I’ve read a lot about Evans coolant but not sure if that’s the way to go for my situation. Last thing I want to do is start melting things from the inside out. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks guys and gals!
  4. Greetings I recently purchased a 2010 ktm 250 xcfw champions edition. (aren't all 2010s champions editions?) I am having a few issues with fuel and coolant that may be related. Relevant modifications: Previous owner had installed a quick shot 3, and an FMF F4.1, but claimed the bike had stock jetting (more on this later). Also claimed the bike got new piston and rings recently. First ride went mostly well. Exception being the bike needed an exceptionally long time (several minutes of riding with choke on) to warm up before it would idle with the choke off. Is that normal? That and I think the silencer was more of a loudener and practically made my ears bleed after a few hours. For the second ride I installed the factory silencer for everyone's sake and assumed the jetting would be fine since previous owner claimed it was stock. Bike ran fine until I came to a stop and noticed quite a bit of steam rolling out of the crank case vent hose.... Assuming the head gasket just went, I shut the bike off and called it quits. So I ordered and installed a new head gasket and lower cylinder gasket. Piston looked pretty new and so did the gaskets. I also could not find a "bad" spot on either gasket where coolant was making its way into the oil/crankcase. Here's where I may have messed up. When reinstalling the timing chain tensioner, I don't think it properly "clicked" back into place because the bike would not run after reassembly. I pulled the valve cover to find the exhaust cam had skipped 1 tooth. So I reset that and was more aggressive with the tensioner and got it to properly seat. Bike fired right up and seemed to be ok compression wise. I put new oil in, rode it for 5 minutes and then changed it again to somewhat flush out the coolant contaminates. Does anyone think the piston struck any valves if they were only 1 tooth off? Wouldn't I have heard them clank together when trying to start it or felt the extra resistance when kicking it over? (Bad battery at the time so no electric start) Took it out for a third ride with new head gasket and fresh oil and it seemed harder to start and wouldn't idle properly with or without choke. After gently riding it for several minutes it would still not run properly. It had a surging idle and would sporadically die. If throttle was applied it would sometimes respond or sometimes die. Then I noticed the steam beginning to exit the crank case vent hose again. It seemed to run ok anywhere above 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Great power response and felt smooth. Anything less and it was dying or surging up and down. So I installed a new water pump shaft seal, and side cover gasket hoping that was the cause of the coolant leak. Then I went after the carb to see if something had become clogged. A complete disassembly and cleaning revealed a surprisingly clean carb with the following jets: #172 main jet, #45 idle jet, and #85 starter jet. Needle jet clip was on the 5th position from the bottom. Nothing seemed to be clogged or malfunctioning. I inspected the intake boots for cracks/leaks and everything seemed to be fine there. After reassembly there was no improvement. I then tried every combination of air screw and qs3 adjustment possible which didn't seem to even phase it. The only thing different I noticed is after several minutes of poorly running and attempting to tune it, if I put the choke back on it would almost instantly begin to rev up uncontrollably high until I turned the choke back off. And then to top it off I still have steam coming out of the crank case vent. I'm hoping the steam is somehow leftover coolant from before and not something like a cracked head or anything. I gave the head a good look over when I had it off for the head gasket but I wasn't really looking for cracks back then. Any ideas on where to go next? Could these issues somehow be related? Sorry for the giant wall of text but if you made it this far thank you. Any thoughts, ideas, jokes are welcome.
  5. I am having a few problems with my rm85 #1- it almost feels like it is running on choke in first and second gear. I believe this is due to the fact that a.) the plastic linkage on my powervalve is obliterated. b.) I believe my governor gear is also bead because whenever I pull off the powervalve cover, the rod going into the case on the gear won’t move up or down when revved, but is very easy to move by hand. Almost feels like it isn’t attached to anything. #2- (building on #1) first and second gear feels very low on power. I was under the impression that an 85 two stroke would be a lot more powerful than a125 four stroke which is what I used to have. I believe this problem is also linked to #1 but I am just not sure yet. In 3, 4, 5, and 6 gear it feels perfectly fine, but in 1st and 2nd I feel like I should be able to pop a wheelie pretty easily but just can’t. #3- (also very likely linked to #1 and 2) the throttle feels very sluggish when I turn it in about the first 1/4. When I try to flick it all the way, it seems as if it will bog out for a split second but it picks itself back up. #4- I have a mysterious leak of coolant somewhere around my powervalve- I’m thinking it could be the o ring on the cylinder head is bad. Other than these issues, it runs pretty well, I would say a little on the rich side because it does like to leak a bit of oil from the exhaust, but hopefully I can fix that with the clip on the needle. Keep in mind though my descriptions may not be entirely accurate because I’ve only ever had four strokes. Anyways, if there is anything you think would help, just let me know please-thanks in advance!
  6. So previously I had an issue of coolant leaking out of my head on my 2001 rm125 (between the cylinder and head) as well as the head studs. I took the head off and resurfaced it until it was flat with no wobble against glass. I put it all back together today and rode around for like 7 minutes, then when I stopped I noticed coolant leaking out of every single head stud. It continues to leak but slower after the dirt bike is shut off. This is all with new o rings in the head from the tusk kit. What is my problem? Please help, I’ve been facing this issue for two weeks now waiting to ride with my friends. the picture included is of the head after I resurfaced it. added: there is an overflow tube at the top of my radiator so if there was excess pressure I would assume that it would come out if that tube and not the head studs
  7. Hi, I have an 04 CRF250R that's puking coolant only when it's not running. This only started happening after I had gotten back from a week long vacation I noticed a sizable puddle of antifreeze on the floor, the bike had be sitting for about 2 months prior to the vacation only being started up every other week. I'm super confused since it was super sudden, before I tear it apart I wanted to know if someone else might know what might be going on, it has to be either the water pump seals or radiator cap.
  8. Hello I just bought a drz400 and I’m wondering what this coolant issue can be. I haven’t had time to go anywhere yet so I have only been able to ride around in my backyard so only 1st and 2nd gear. However I noticed after a quick ride that the coolant overflow get fluid in it and when I shut off the bike their is a slow coolant leak coming from the bottom (still haven’t found where). I have no white smoke from exhaust or coolant in oil (just did oil change) so I am unsure to decide whether it is a head gasket yet. I did notice however when the coolant was going in the overflow it had some bubbles. And when the bike is cold all fluid in overflow goes back inside to radiator. Any guesses on what this could be?
  9. So I bought a bike half disassembled with the rod seized (stupid I know but i got excited it was a cheap dirt bike) I tore it all apart and found the coolant o ring was ripped. I bought all new bottom and top end rebuild kit and put it all back together. I tried to start it up and it wouldn't go I had good compression but I think i had the clutch improperly adjusted I drained the oil so I could pull off the clutch cover and out pours most of my coolant with it... Is it possible the brand new water pump seal is bad? Or maybe the case is cracked honestly idk. Or since it leaked that much before the bike was even started is it probably that o ring didnt get put in right. I didn't see any oil in the coolant but since it never ran I don't think it would have any pressure to get it up there. Thanks in advance for any answers I get its my first bike ive ever owned and I would really like to ride it XD
  10. I've got a 2007 kx250f that keeps leaking coolant from the overflow tube. I've replaced the radiator cap thinking it was just that because the old one was so weak, but it didn't solve my problem. I put the coolant just above the fins inside the radiator to allow for expansion like it recommends but it still leaks quite a bit, I didn't know if you had to purge the system somehow to get all the air out or if this could somehow be a head gasket problem. Thanks
  11. I have a bad leak in Coolant, also Transmission Oil, so I am replacing the bearings/seals/gaskets on the Right Engine Case I am also replacing the Impellar shaft, since it has grooves - but when inserting the Impellar shaft, it has rotational play, meaning it can rotate forward and back very slightly - rather than very snug Is this OK - or should it be very tight, and if it needs to be tight - what part do i look to replace? The large gear that it inserts into? Here is a video to better show the question:
  12. Hello I just bought a drz400 and I’m wondering what this coolant issue can be. I haven’t had time to go anywhere yet so I have only been able to ride around in my backyard so only 1st and 2nd gear. However I noticed after a quick ride that the coolant overflow get fluid in it and when I shut off the bike their is a slow coolant leak coming from the bottom (still haven’t found where). I have no white smoke from exhaust or coolant in oil (just did oil change) so I am unsure to decide whether it is a head gasket yet. I did notice however when the coolant was going in the overflow it had some bubbles. And when the bike is cold all fluid in overflow goes back inside to radiator. Any guesses on what this could be? Quote Edit
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