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Showing results for tags 'cr250'.
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That’s &%$#@! up ..... And that’s &%$#@! up So as you can see my first rebuild has come to a halt just as I was buttoning it up as I was going to install the stator and saw that I installed the crank backward.... yup ... and the engine is torqued and red loctite’d to the frame .... yup... I did that. So I’m just wondering what parts I should replace to be safe or if I can just rip it apart flip the crank throw in a new gasket and call it a night? Thanks for any advice guys I feel real dumb right now lol
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Hi there, I have a 2002 Cr250 with a brand new top end. Running 91, 44:1 golden Spectro, 400 main, 30 pilot with a aftermarket pipe and silencer (Buds Hgs racing. The bike has perfect throttle response and runs strong. Brand new spark plug aswell. When I try to rev 1st and 2nd gear out it sputters really bad and has 0 to little power in 1st and 2nd. When I shift up into 3rd and above the thing takes off like a rocket ship. The air fuel mixture screw is 2 turns out. I’m not sure what to do. Any help/suggestions would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Was wondering if anyone knows of a diagram that shows the thickness and inner diameter size for each washer. I think I have it right but I want to be sure. And does it matter what direction the washers face? I'd imagine it does being that each thrust washer has a smooth edge and a sharper edge. I face the smooth edge of the thrust washers outwards if you know what I mean because if they are the other way around it wouldn't seem right. If anyone that has experience with this stuff can chime in that would be awesome
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Having trouble with the rc valve. works fine with 12v supplied to it. Took readings from the cdi and it is a constant 4 volts no more no less when revving up the engine. How many volts should that vary when revving the engine? All the way up to 12? Thanks in advance!!
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I have a CR250 and a CRF450R - I am 6'5" amateur I find it impossible to position feet on pegs in a way that I can easily extend foot to hit rear brake My longer legs result in sharp angle with foot, so I end up standing in a way that the foot does not cover rear brake (toes on peg, nothing over brake) When I try to practice rear brake tap (on wheelies, or in mid-air jumping to lower the front) - I notice my foot has to lift up, reposition, then tap = much slower I am wondering if there are adjustments to my rear brake to make it sit lower - another possibility seems I could bend the rear brake to physically sit lower Not sure if this is a common issue amongst tall riders, did not find much info on brief search - thanks in advance for any help
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Hey guys, I've got a mysterious leak of tranny oil coming out of the "weep hole" at the crankcase seam near the oil check bolt. I say it's a mystery because the Honda house mechanic and an old school CR250 friend have never seen it before. I don't feel like it could be a major engine problem since the bike runs like a bat outta hell! I was hoping it could just be a gasket that's shot. There's also a little oil that comes out of the weep hole inside the stator cover...seems related. Any of you Honda 2-stroke connoisseurs have any ideas? I appreciate any feedback
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Hey all, does anyone have a PDF service manual for a 95 or newer CR250. Doing fork seals and a few other maintenance items and would like to review the manual. I cannot find anything online regarding the forks on the 95 and older models. Not sure exactly how to bleed the inner fork cartridge. Thanks 🙂
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Got my 88 Cr250 was idling odd so I cleaned the carb and tried adjusting the idle but can't get it perfect and now ithe will wind up like it's about to snap into powerband but it acts like it almost hits a rev limiter and gets some power but definitly does not sound right, any help much appreciated.
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So, I took a trip into the local Honda store recently, had my 1992 CR250 in the back of the truck.. Next thing you knew, there was 3 employees out there looking at the bike. A guy recently had restored the same bike, and was in aw that this bike was in better condition. He told me that to a collector, with the parts on it and hte condition, that it's worth a min of $7500.00. I still don't really believe it, but if that's true.. I will be selling it to get a CR500, since I am a bigger guy... I'll miss her, but a collector would take the best care of her. I've kept this bike in mint condition since I bought it in 1996 for $2400.00. The guy who raced it had just rebuilt the engine, and babied this bike, even above all his newer CR's. Apparently there is about $4k worth of work done to the engine, polishing the insides etc. (dunno, I am not a mechanic). He said that he did a Dyno test on it, showing it to push a little over 50HP (can't remember if he said 55, but I know it's in that area). I haven't changed anything on it, other than the pipe. Went with pro circuit since that's what the suspension / silencer is. Anyways, that's my longer story short... here are a couple pictures for you guys. Any comments and feedback are more than welcome!
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01 CR250 project I started around Christmas. I do powder coating on the side so literally everything is powder coated on the bike. Runs & rides good just been playing with the air screw a little. Some of the pictures didn't show up as thumbnails but did show up a s a link, not sure why. Enjoy, forum lurkers -
1995 cr250, had cylinder bored and sleeved with la sleeve. Sleeve not installed right and ports on cylinder do not match sleeve ports turned about 1/8 from being lined up. Can it be fixed or is it permanent? Please give useful advise, much appreciated.
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Would anyone know the best gearing for desert, long ranges, I have 13/49 and I feel I can go faster, anyone know what I should use for more top speed?
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I recently bought a 2001 Cr250r that needed more than I thought in work. It ended up being a full rebuild on the engine and mostly every bearing on the bike. My current problem is that I have a small ding in one of the ports on the cylinder. I don’t have much money to spend on this bike so I don’t want to have it replated if I don’t need to. I was hoping I could just hone it. If anyone knows anything about that please help me out 1.can I still use my stock piston after it’s honed(it’s new) 2. Will honing it and maybe sanding hurt the bike. I want it to be as reliable as it can with the least money.
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Hi! I'm thinking about buying an 03' CR250 and the seller did a rebuild, new piston, pro circuit exhaust, new crank, carburetor, spark plug, all new bearings and some other smaller things (seals etc.), on the picture bellow you can really see she's a beauty... okay so the problem is that after the rebuild the bike goes into false neutral every couple of shifts eg. every 10 min of riding. It didn't do that before the rebuild so any ideas? Also the bike is selling for $1450 and the price isn't final so that's why I'm so interested. Thanks in advance, ulajemuzica
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Hi all, I have a question that i haven't found some clear cut info about. Id just like to hear it from the community.... my mate and i are honda CRF boys , and sadly when we were recently on an out ride in the South African landscape, his engine came to a halt & seizure! what a day it was getting the bloody thing back to the car! Anyway we are young adults at uni who dont really have a lot of mony spare! we managed to find a way to rapidly replace the bike and to save money. We found a running 2004 yama yz250 2t and the guy traded us a seized 2005 crf250 for this- he specialized in chop shopping Honda and obviously saw value in this trade. it obviously came with its quirks.... this yz250 has: -1998 yz 250 motor -CDI from an 80cc yz When we first took the bike to the track it would not start. I noticed the following: -small holes in the expansion chamber (a few, none bigger than the tip on an Aux jack)- what is the impact of these small holes on the bike? ( i will use fire-gum to fix) -muffler does not tightly fit to the end of expansion chamber. FYI, fuel mix was 50:1- recommended by the oil we used- i have been told that old Yamaha are better with more oil? 25:1? So leading up to my question: when we eventually got the bike started (Bump start) it really ran lumpy, and bogged when the accelerator was pulled and eventually died. when i get the chance to look at the bike, what is the impact of holes in an expansion chamber?- could this be a reason for starting and power issue and bogging under acceleration?? Could this be because of a CDI from an 80cc? Could this be Fuel Mix? Spark Plug? apart from those questions, i am going to change the spark plug anyway- i can assume that maybe this could be due to a faulty plug?- maybe?? anyway, this is what i know. perhaps you guys would be able to add to my theories or tell me something more that i could investigate? thanks, Luke
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Hey all, I'm new to this forum. I bought a 2001 CR250 a couple weeks ago, and it worked great. I bought a new clutch lever off of ebay and installed it. The lever must have been a wrong one, because I no longer had any free play. The lever was clamped tight against the perch, and even after I loosened it all the way (from both adjustment points) it would not loosen up. I took it off and installed the stock lever again, but there is now almost no free play again. The hand adjusted one is almost as far as it goes, and the other one is adjusted as far as it goes. I have enough free play, but I can't loosen it out any more. Also, since putting the stock lever back on, when I try to start the bike in first gear (with the clutch lever pulled all the way in) the bike pulls forwards fairly hard. Why does it do this?? I don't get why it worked perfectly before, but now it's all wack. Any help is appreciated.
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Hello everyone, first post, glad to be here. So I bought a cheap 1990 CR250R that had a cracked case (someone ran a loose chain without a case protector). Long story short, engine is back together and ready to go back in the bike.... however... one weird thing came up during the rebuild. It seems that the bike has a 9 disk clutch basket in it. Tryed stacking only 8 (as the manual intructed) and no go, clutch slipped when everything was buttoned up (like easily by hand). My question is this, where did this clutch come from? (It looks like the stock clutch exactly aside from the # of disks) Was there an old school modification that used a different clutch assembly? Does the stock clutch have a habit of slipping? So many questions, hope yall can help answer some of them. Thanks in advance! Ian
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Hey Guys! I Don't usually post questions like these but after trying to troubleshoot for 3 months straight, I am reaching a breaking point haha. Issue: While on the track (Usually straightaways before a jump) my bike makes some weird clacking/pinging noise that almost feels like it slows me down a bit and it also hangs on idle after being in high rpms sometimes when i'm in the air. At first I assumed it was just running lean and having a bit of Predetonation so I enriched the metering rod in my Lectron Carb, however the problem persists and my bike spooges quite a bit too with other rich symptoms like a black spark plug. I have messed with both my metering rod and power jet but to no avail. I am also running Premium 91-93 which I stated in my order for the lectron so they should have set the baseline for the carb! My stock Mikuni carb also had this issue of having lean symptoms but spooged a lot. I also checked my trans oil level to see if my right crank seal is blown but the oil still came out of the oil check hole so I ruled that out unless the leak is slow enough. After getting back from the track, I removed my ignition cover to find a little bit of oil of which I cant determine its origin (Trans fluid or premix). It looked a little red which is confusing because both my premix and my trans oil is red. it seemed to be leaking out of that small weep hole at the bottom of the case but i'm not certain. I suspected that my left crank seal was worn so I started the bike and did the old trick where you spray starting fluid behind the flywheel and look for a rise in the idle. The idle barely rose so I did not come to a firm conclusion and now i'm completely lost as to why my bike makes this clacking and pinging while at mid to WOT and would like to know if anyone could chime in and help me out! thanks guys! ps: here are some pics of the bike 1.) Thats how much spooge after about 1 hr of riding 2.) The ignition side of the case (with the cover off) 3.) and the bike itself! sorry for the vertical pics!
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I'm having a little bit of a problem with my 2002 cr250 and I hope you guys can help me figure it out. Every time I wash my bike water ends up in the carb,reeds I do use a power washer but I don't get too close to any of that stuff, it makes the bike idle really high when I first start after a wash and hard to start at first. TIA.
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I've been doing quite a bit of reading on the subject but just looking for more insight on my particular setup: I have an 01 CR250 with a 38mm Air Striker from JD Jetting. It currently has the factory(JD) jetting in it: #7 slide, 45 pilot, 175 main, blue needle on #3, air screw 1.5-2 turns out. The bike has a fresh top end(did it when I installed the carb), Boyesen carbon fiber reeds, FMF Gnarly pipe, and a fresh-packed FMF Shorty silencer. The idle/pilot seems to be pretty close, although it may be a bit rich. I've noticed the air screw doesn't seem to have much affect when adjusting it. The other issue I've noticed is a slight bog when I get on it at lower speeds/RPMs. IE: Making a slow, tight turn in first gear and then getting on the throttle coming out of the turn. There's no sputtering/etc, just a bog/hesitation. I'm assuming the needle will play a big part in fixing this, but does this indicate a rich or lean condition? Also, I'm setting this bike up for single-track/enduro/woods riding. Any advice on jetting/needle combos that'll give me the cleaner part-throttle/low RPM response I'm looking for? Edit: My altitude is around 600-700 above sea level(Chicagoland) and the current temps are in the 60s-70s.
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Hi all, I am new to this forum. I have a 2005 cr250 that I bought a couple weeks ago and I'm rebuilding the top end currently. A wiseco piston was in it originally and it ran well so I ordered another wiseco kit. As many of you know, you have to drill 2 holes in the piston to lubricate the exhaust bridge. My question: how are you guys usually drilling the 2 holes and how do you clean up the burrs? Can you do it with a hand drill? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
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Hey I have a 96 cr250 and the rear compression damper nut came off and I can't get it back on, any ideas?
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Hi, I have a 1993 Honda cr250r. Everything on the bike seems okay expect for the shifting. The bike can shift from neutral to first but, wont go any higher. I don't really know what it could be, maybe the shift drum or the forks. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi, I have a 99 Cr250 that I want to replace the clutch basket on. Figured I go with wiseco since they have a nice warranty. On their website they want like $270 for the basket kit then on eBay I could buy one for $170. I just not sure why the eBay deal is a $100 cheaper and if I should buy it. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Clutch-Basket-For-Honda-CR250R-CRF450R-CRF450X-/390928120937?nav=SEARCH http://www.wiseco.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ItemID=WPP3009&ModelID=123&ModelYear=1999&AppID=5959
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I recently rebuilt a 2001 CR250. It ran when I bought it but it had a crack in the left side of the crank case near the flywheel cover, I'm guessing oil got in when I ran it (like an idiot), and it bogged down and shut off on me after 15 minutes of riding and wouldn't start back up. I since replaced the left side crank case, painted the frame, and put her back together. I did a spark test and got no spark. Forgot to sand down some grounding spots so I did that. Didn't want to take the whole motor out so I sanded as best as I could between engine and engine mounts. Still got nothing. I assumed from my research it was the CDI. Bought an aftermarket HPI CDI box. Still nothing. Got an electrosport stator that came with the wiring harness and pick up coil, still nothing. Got a new kill switch and ignition coil. STILL nothing. Put an extra ground harness from a bolt on the crankcase to a sanded spot on the frame.. annnd nothing.. Anyone have any suggestions? I used a multimeter (when I had access to one) on the old components, they seemed to read just fine.. Is it even worth my time getting my hands on another multimeter to test an all brand new electrical system? Desperate here and trying to avoid taking her to the shop someone please help!!
