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Found 36 results

  1. 2008 crf250r, in the process of finishing up a top end rebuild, and after installing the timing chain onto the cam I deciding to hand crank the engine slowly with the kickstart to see if everything was alright. There is a distinct knock that sounds like it is coming from somewhere in the cylinder each time I turn the engine over. What would be causing this sound?
  2. Hi all, Hoping someone can help. Basically I require the bush/bearing that sits in the crank arm on the small end. (the bush sleeve, bronze, brass thing, whatever you call it) Im based in the UK and Im having a hard time of finding a replacement. long story short, the bike acquired an oil leak while on a long journey and ended up running low on oil. I've stripped the engine, and everything is good apart from the piston and cylinder. I can't feel any play in the small end rod bush but it is marked and I'm changing it more for peace of mind than anything else. ps: I realise the bush maybe marked due to the softer material insert? I'm used to looking at cranks without this bush. (connecting rod) example
  3. I have the option of either installing SKF bearings or Koyo bearings . I was told by my local parts / Bearing retailer that SKF makes high quality brgs . Koyo have also earned a great reputation being a trusted brand as well . I'm seeking the opinions of the forum on this choice . Thanks for your input on this matter ! Application : 1984 YZ 250L
  4. Hello there, today I just finished putting my bike together for the second time now after it keeps seizing up I originally pulled it apart because the shift drum cracked and transmission was damaged the bike ran fine before I pulled it down it never missed a beat. I went to put it back together after I rebuild the transmission and put new crank barings in when I went to start it, it just wanted to seize up I thought this might have been the Piston because it seemed a bit old at 168 hours so I got a new one put it all back together same issues it idels fine but when you go to accelerate at wants to seize up, then it gets hard to kick. no it's not the timming like 10 million people have said it's some weird bottom end issue could be the crank or rod even tho they were perfectly fine before it was pulled down. when it seizes up you just put it in gear and pull it back and it's fine again so confused on wtf is happening please help. cheers blake
  5. So I've 3d printed the crank truing stand, I'll upload that to thingiverse soon, may make some improvements first. It uses skate bearings. The crank is well within spec. maybe .04mm max at the very ends of the crankshaft. I've never trued a crank before, this is my first time measuring one even. The manual shows where to measure it. I'm curious if it's even worth the trouble to try and get it perfect, probably not obtainable. Obviously I can't smack the crank on these PLA stands
  6. That’s &%$#@! up ..... And that’s &%$#@! up So as you can see my first rebuild has come to a halt just as I was buttoning it up as I was going to install the stator and saw that I installed the crank backward.... yup ... and the engine is torqued and red loctite’d to the frame .... yup... I did that. So I’m just wondering what parts I should replace to be safe or if I can just rip it apart flip the crank throw in a new gasket and call it a night? Thanks for any advice guys I feel real dumb right now lol
  7. Been looking for after market crank for 99 rm125. Seems like no one makes aftermarket. Engine is apart and searched the part number it’s a wiseco for 2000-2003.. supposedly it doesn’t fit. bit is for sure 99, checked vin on frame and engine. can I rebuild the wiseco crank to put a pro x con rod? Lower rod bearing blew (rod seized) cranks spins free. Any feedback will help..
  8. Good day. I've come across this image of a Honda CRF450 Rally engine. What draws my attention is the piece of equipment next to the crank case guard. What is it exactly? Is it used like a chain lubing system? Why would it need to be planted in the direct vicinity of the front sprocket otherwise?
  9. Hi guys, I got a kx 85 2001 and i have a problem.. since i got it, sometimes its hard to start but since 2 days, i've started it but died when i went for a ride and wouldnt start anymore. So my problem : the bike crank but is really hard to start (if it start).. and if it start, it die.. and again hard to start. -Spark is good, air filter is clean, jetting seems okay (needle look pointed and carb clean), after a lot a cranking the gas get out by the overflow of the carb (so i have gas with good ratio 40:1) and the motor was replaced recently at 135psi of compression. Another thing, a got spooge from the exhaust. Now i am checking for the reed valve, they're not broken but i see a really little gap with my light and if i turn over the plate, its really worse. So do you think they were already turned by someone else ? Does a really little gap can cause a hard start/bogg like this? Should i change them for new ? Another idea on what i should look?? Thx !
  10. Hello guys, I am need of some serious urgent help. I have a bike that is a 1996 model kx250. The bike has a hole in the right side crank case where the kicker is. I used JBWELD the 1st time to patch it and it held up but it has gotten a lot worse over the time. I am dire need of the case to fix it. I did a little research (google & local kawasaki dealer/customer support) and found out that no other cases from other models will work with the 96 model. I have search Ebay for nearly 2 days now non stop with no luck of finding the right side (found the left) or even a set of cases for that model. If anyone could help me out and maybe enlighten me on some people selling cases, please do link them below!
  11. Based on suggestions from the thread YZ250 Mods Out of Gate post about adding a flywheel weight, I'm considering a flywheel such as this MSR model in 9oz or 11oz (not sure). I have never installed a flywheel weight before and was looking to purchase a flywheel puller. Looking at them, I thought, geez, those sure like like that old Shimano bicycle crank pullers I have, per picture. Think I can use one of these to install a flywheel weight?
  12. Hi, 01kx2500 Long story short......i THINK I have a crack in my crank case. The symptoms were lots of smoke, burned up the capacity of the transmission oil in three hours ride time. I sent the bottom end to a local dirt bike shop and he replaced the crank bearings (one bearing was shot) and seals (one seal was disfigured). He and I confirmed the crank (previous owner installed a weisco crank) was still good (no up and down play). Put the bike together and still burned tranny oil. So I assume cracked case. Haven't taken it apart yet to verify because I'm afraid of the bottom end. Anybody here want to take a look at it with the assumption of making a weld?
  13. Last time I had my valves adjusted I had a shop do them, so I will preface this by saying that I may have adjusted them incorrectly myself because I do not recall this noise, and the kickstart problem that has come with it, after the previous adjustment. However, after completing what I believed to be a successful valve adjustment (I used the crank lock method to ensure I was at TDC) I immediately noticed this very loud ticking noise coming from the front right side of the engine that was not there before. This noise is separate from the normal noisy clutch sound that will go away when the clutch is engaged. This noise itself however, seems to subside when I pull in the decompression lever. The throttle response on the bike felt good when I rode it, and the electric start works just fine. The only noticeable issue (which is what is making me decide not to ignore the noise) is that my kickstart now feels like a brick wall and harshly snaps back at me, whereas before it would kick over the bike fairly effortlessly in no more than two kicks hot or cold. I will post a video of the bike riding and of it running while in the garage. Any suggestions for how to fix this are appreciated. Thanks in advance to all! Garage (rip kickstart/excuse the monologue): https://youtu.be/wG3lT3gixMw Riding (everything seems fine): https://youtu.be/ylqQpcufWzA
  14. I just traded for a 2004 crf450r that has a bad crank. I am new to 4 strokes and their engines, so i am a bit scared to try to do this myself. If i were to send it to a dealership, about how much would that cost to get a crank replaced? And if i were to do it myself, would i need any specialty tools?
  15. Bought new in 1997, my Suzuki DR650 motorcycle in 2014, with 20500 Km on the clock experienced unpredictable catastrophic 3 rd gear disintegration. Eventually in December 2016 the Small Claims Court of South Africa, with Suzuki Auto South Africa defending,the court awarded me my damages claim for the repair of my Suzuki motorcycle. For more details visit www.harryterezakis.blogspot.com
  16. Alright good news. Had saved up a bunch of money expecting to owe a significant amount for taxes.. Turns out I don't owe nearly as much!! Time to put the money to good use and build a nice performance motor for my drz. I am planning on doing a full 470 kit from ebay (Stage 2 cams, +4mm Crank, 94mm Piston/Jug) Has anybody else done this big of a displacement change? If so how bad will this hurt my reliability? I know it wont be nearly as reliable as stock, obviously.. just wanted to get a few opinions before I jump into ordering everything. Also, if I follow through with it I would be doing the MX39 carb swap. I am running a new Yoshi RS-2 full system, but will swap to MRD if it will make a significant difference. Thank you guys, Brad
  17. long story short 5th gear started making grinding noises (sounded like metal on metal). first to second was extremely difficult and notchy. bike was surging as well. decided to take apart the bike (stopped short of removing the motor and splitting the case), noticed that the countershaft sprocket was lose and that the clutch basket was making this noise. based on other youtube videos im assuming my crank shaft bearing is done? thanks in advance for any advice.
  18. Picked up an 04' YZ250 with a cooked engine for $400 the other week, appears that the previous owner attempted a rebuild and advanced the timing WAY too much and detonated until it fried a hole in the piston. Pulled the cases apart last night only to find a Wiseco crank installed. Crank threads on the flywheel side are flattened out as well. Im a huge fan of Ken O'Connor's work and I have followed his guides through several YZ250s with tremendous success. I rebuild these engines 100% with OEM parts, albeit using a Wiseco piston. So heres the issue, honestly for what it costs to rebuild the crank and have it trued ($110 after S&H) and the parts ($160) as well as having the threads fixed, or even sourcing a scorched crank off of ebay ($50). It looks like its worth it to just purchase an OEM one from the factory ($285). Anyone had any experience with this? Not 100% sold on it making it to me with the precision that Ken has put into the cranks he's fixed for me. Realistically its one of the few OEM parts im not certain of the precision of. Any feedback would be helpful.
  19. Hey guys! Quick question on my left side crank case (stator side). After my rides if you pull the cover off I am finding gear oil. Which shouldn’t be there. I am not sure if it is coming from or could come from the clutch arm or what seems to be a wheep hole? See pictures and let me know if any of you have ran into the same problem, and how you fixed it. All info would be greatly appreciated. - Jarod
  20. My bike has a weird knocking noise. Can anyone tell me what it is? And also is anything else wrong with the bike you can tell from the sound? I just got it it is a used 2006 kx85. Here is the video of the sound.
  21. I just bought it and it was starting up first kick every time, then all of a sudden when I was riding it, it would just bog down after giving it gas and eventually quit. So I thought it was out of gas and put more in. It wouldn't start up so I cleaned the carb out and tried it and it still wouldn't start. When i tried push starting it, it would start up and run as long as I was pushing it but it sounded bogged down still especially if I gave it gas and eventually it would quit when I got too tired to keep pushing it. Choke makes no difference. Seems like theres a good seal around the air boots, so what could this be??
  22. I am needing the crankshaft collar that goes on the primary drive of the crank. Yamaha has discontinued this part. 90387-2513A-00 COLLAR The previous owner put an 01 crank in my 2000 bike....not knowing I ordered the crank for a 2000 but am missing the parts to put it together. Crank is all installed already. Does anyone have this part kicking around!!!! THANKS!
  23. Heres the noise. Sounds like its coming from my top end..,
  24. Tldr: look at the bottom, told the whole story of my crash in the first few paragraphs Hey all. I Was riding my 2011 Yamaha wr450f on the road earlier to get to some trails, 10 minute ride on some back roads from the 8-9 acres of private land I offload my bike at and start my day of riding I was riding to my trails and decided to hammer on the gas through a sharp left turn, which I've taken going 50-60mph through a bunch of times. Stupid I'm sure for the curve of the turn and with the speed limit 25 through it, but It's a backroad, not many people go on it whatever. Anyways, to the crash. I take the turn going 50 mph, then speed up to 60mph going through it. I Leaned in to the turn too much, don't have great tires for the road on my street legal wr450f, and was going way too fast so I slid on the left side of my bike on the pavement. I slid like right alongside the bike probably 20 feet. Got some road rash, torn up a bit, most of my body got small things on road rash tbh, mostly my left side. Anyways tldr my long story, crashed my wr450f at 60mph on the pavement, only messed up my clutch lever slightly and got a decent sized hole in the crank case. I rode it home with the hole in the case probably less than a mile as soon as I got up from the crash. I was just wondering, based off the pics I'm posting if I can JB weld it together for a hare scramble I have august 20th, or if I should just get a new aftermarket or OEM one? Any opionions would be great. Pic of the crack in the case isn't great, crappy lighting, but it's maybe an inch, half inch long, the biggest part of the crack to the top of it, right near the shifting pedal, whatever it's called. It bent in and poked a hole in the case. First pic is one of the oil that's leaked on my garage floor since I've had it sitting there for 12 hours, then the other 2 are of the crack in the case, not the best quality like I said
  25. Thought I would share my bike rebuild I did on my 2001 CR125. The bike was in a rough shape when I bought it. Here is the only pictures I have when I bought the bike. I didnt take before pictures. The picture does not do enough justice on how bad this bike was. Sorry about the quality it is the picture the guy send me and he had a filter on it. Got the bike back and started working on it right away. It would start only by bump starting and would not go into the powerband so I started to tear the bike down.(I did a compression test and it was at 60PSI cold) after i pulled the motor I found the cylinder to have a crack in the exhaust side and pits all down the cylinder. It had a Wiesco piston and crank. The pits down the cylinder, the walls were scored. The steering kept grabbing while turing so I tore apart the steering stem and found the shape of the bearings... Took the dremel and cut out the bearing it would not break loose due to being rusted bad. On the frame and swingarm I took the sand paper to and sanded it down from 600 grit to 800,1000,2000,3000 grit. Then on the pipe it is a pro circuit pipe that was black and I took a sandblaster to it then sanded it down. I used a torch on the seams to give it the blue tint. Have the bike completly tore down cases were not split this time the crank seemed fine no slop in it move freely figured it would be fine for awhile... front and rear shocks were rebuilt no shock oil was in either front or rear shocks, soaked the chain in gear oil for 2 weeks and let air dry for 2 days, cleaned up the case halves with wd-40 and a scotch brite pad. I wish I would of took before pictures of everything the cases were caked in cow manure and grass took a long time to get the stains out of the cases and swing arms. Was time to put the bike all back together piston and cylinder came got a oem cylinder and wiesco piston. I did not put in a new crank more to that later. Got the bike back together did not buy any plastics or look good things yet I planned within a month after the build to get all the plastics and graphics. I wanted to focus on all money going in to the bikes motor and more important things. Went to do a break in cycle on the bike ran great had no signs of anything going to fail started first kick, clutch worked great after I used it a bit but then was riding down a gravel road still during the break in cycle and the bike locked up on me that ended the break in cycle. Took it back and started to pull the motor and found that the crank locked up on me. Split the cases pulled the crank and decided to split the crank apart to see out of curiosity what it was and found the big end bearing to be shelled. The marks on the crank were from splitting the crank used a air hammer to split it. Ended up going with a OEM Crank and another Wiesco Piston. scored the piston bad with the chunks of the bearing, cylinder was fine no scoring. Big mistake not replacing the Crank after the crank locked up I looked up wiesco cranks and they say they do not last at all. Got new plastics, seat cover and graphics also and finished up the bike project. I spent plenty of time on the bike making it look good and cleaning it up. It was my first bike rebuild I ever have done.
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