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  1. Hello I am looking for a set of cases for a 05 KX250 2 stroke. Part # is 14001-0021. From what I can tell cross referencing parts, 06-07 are practically identical to 05 and have all the same internals. the part # for 06-07 is 14001-0065. Anybody out there who might have some lying around collecting dust? Kawasaki discontinued manufacturing these apparently
  2. 2007 drz400 Crank case filling with fuel. What to do or what parts do I need to get to fix.
  3. I recently bought a 1986 XR250R that had a broken shifter shaft. I already have the new part but i'm having some difficulty splitting the two crank cases. I have the top end completely dismantled and I was able to split the two cases about 3/4 of an inch but something is not allowing to split all the way. I haven't pulled the clutch and would prefer not to, I just need to know the simplest way to split the two cases I don't have any specialized tools or anything like that. Is it possible to pull off the flywheel to split the cases and ignore the clutch all together? Thank you in advance for any replies.
  4. So, I have what I believe is an 07 bottom end in an 08 bike (no gearshift sensor in the left case). The left case is trashed because of a chain break. The plan is to buy an 08 left side case and mate it to the 07 right side case. Will they fit correctly? (Also have the 08 trans and top end.)
  5. So I just bought a 01 CR125 and realized that the chain must have broke at some point and took a part of the case off. No oil is leaking and there is some jb weld on one of the bolt holes. I was curious if anyone was familiar with this repair? And how much it would cost in labor to replace the left side case.
  6. Hey guys I just bought a Crf150r that was locked up for 250$ lol. I got it completely tore down and the cases split. There was some damage with the piston and cylinder but nothing major. There was a bunch of nics in the underside of the piston like a bunch of metal got into the cylinder. Once I got the cylinder off though the crank spun very smoothly and freely and after splitting the cases nothing is damaged in the bottom end or missing that I know of. The only thing I am concerned about is on the inner part of the crankcase halves right in the middle all the way around where the crank goes, there is all kinds of scoring and nicks in the surface of the cases. It looks like it blew up in the past and the crank crashed into the walls around it and some kind of metal gouged it all up. I just need to know if the cases are able to be ran or not. I don’t see why they wouldn’t be able too because I don’t think it would affect anything but I don’t know much when it comes to engines lol. I just want to get someones opinion who knows what they are talking about before I put a lot of money and time into it just for it to blow up again. I’ll post some pics of it to help out and if u have any more questions about it just ask and I’ll reply quickly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And also what do u think happened to it? I think it blew up initially and some random mechanic down the road rebuilt it and it blew up right away again. All the parts - piston, head, crank, etc. look like they have very little run time and the crank is aftermarket. I also do know that it got rained in which is why the kid that I bought it from said it was locked up. The cam was very rusty and the cylinder had a pool for water sitting in it.
  7. Hi everyone I'm deleting my overflow bottle and noticed a hose coming from my crankcase breather #12 in the diagram Does this feed into the top of the overflow??? If so can I just re-route it to my new catch can? Appreciated Brett
  8. Hey Guys, I am continuing on my quest to modify my XR650L to the best of my abilities. I have seen some threads where people have taken the hose that comes from the oil separator out of the airbox and attached a K&N Filter to the end of it. This seems like a reasonable method to improve the quality of air passing through the carb. If somebody has completed this mod I would very much like to see it. I can't for the life of me figure out where i would put it and feel that it was securely attached. Also, there seems to be a very large selection of K&N filters available for the task. Does anybody know a specific size or part # that will work with this particular hose? Thanks
  9. Hey everyone, I am looking for a right side crankcase for a YZ125. Year 2005 or newer. If anyone has one or knows of where I could get a used one from I’d be very appreciative, thanks. I live in Colorado Springs, CO.
  10. Beware. Long story long. Juicy horror bike story. Learn from my mistake. DONT BUY WITHOUT TITLE! Once upon a time.. I rode my brothers Chinese 125cc bike before Xmas 2020 and was instantly hooked. Eager to ride again, I went shopping. I couldn’t afford new (so I thought), so I ended up testing out so much used trash. Eventually found an affordable and running 2006 CRF250R on OfferUp. Drove 60 miles to check it out. Owner was hesitant to sell from the go and once it was out the garage it wouldn’t kick over. I thought great another waste of time. He asked if we’d help him bump start it. But once it went, it WENT. He was asking $2300. Said it had a new Wiseco crank & piston and was just cold to start. It was a Real clean bike but I did notice there was a small leak from the shift shaft.. Also noticed the chain had at one point ripped through and caused some damage to the crank cover and interior frame. Nothing serious I thought. I had a mechanic friend on FaceTime listening and looking over the bike while it idled. He said it sounded good. Once it was warmed up I killed it and was able to kick it over 1 time and run it around the neighborhood for 5 minutes. Before cashing out and loading it in the truck the seller tells me he misplaced the CA title during the move (we in AZ) but he would provide a “Bill Of Sale” (come to find out is useless unless notarized) and help w title transfer. With the required repairs and no physical title, I low balled him down to $1500. He wasn’t budging until I pulled out the $10 bills stack.. inching close to xmas I’m sure it helped persuade him. As we loaded it in the truck he said with tear full eyes he’d buy it back if I ever needed to sell it. I thought I was getting away with a deal, little did I know I just inherited a curse from hell. Once I got it home I couldn’t kick it over for the life of me. With no one around to help me bump start it, it sat in my yard waiting to be touched. New to bikes, I grabbed the manual and watched 20+ hours of YouTube before deciding to tear it apart. I went and bought an air compressor and a boat load of tools. Off came the plastics, seat, sub frame and carb. The jets were clogged and it needed a thorough cleaning. Seals were still good. Then the first of many horrors began. I removed the chain guard and found the real leak! The crank case knob that holds the chain guard was busted off! What was left was a tiny hole in the crankcase. It was just enough to spit out a few drops of oil but over time I knew it was going to be an issue I’d have to take care of by removing and splitting the case to replace it. For now, JB weld would do. With the carb refreshed and shining, back in it went. To my surprise still wouldn’t kick over. For two weeks I kick it over until my calf is tripe in size. Still nothing. The parts guy at the bike shop suggested checking the valves. Back to YouTube I went. A week later the top end is off and I’m searching for shims. Exhaust L & R are to spec .010, L intake is .005 and the R intake has zero clearance. I remove the current shim there and it clears to .016 (waaay to much clearance) but all the compression is back and it fires right up. Quick Carb adjustments and its idling perrrfect. “FINALLY, what a great investment” I thought! I called Honda and asked what shims would work, they told me it’s too big of a clearance for shims and that if it’s running to “just ride it!”, “but eventually it’ll need a valve job”. So off I went, tearing up the desert. Man this bike was fast. “And I did it myself”, Id say to myself. $400 in gear and Three trips later, it was still running like a champ. Then I had the great idea of getting it titled and registered. The MVD passed inspection, no stolen record, no liens, no salvage title! Temp plate and registered! I Received my tags and began the rest of the title process. A week later I return to a different MVD office to pick up my title. They process my application and while waiting for the print out I’m approached by the police wanting to know where I stole the bike! I show proof of purchase and registration and ask what the hell are they talking about. The MVD has already inspected the bike and registered it to me. The fuzz say that while processing the title, MVD noticed a stolen vehicle report coming out of CA from back in May 2020. But how! How did it not come up when they registered it to me a week ago! The police ask where the bike is and I said at home. When I arrive home a new set of officers are waiting at my door to “recover the stolen bike”. I’m appalled. I ask for proof of this report and confirmation of the VIN. They said they didn’t need any so long as the CA authority dispatcher confirms it. While waiting for the tow truck, the officer tells me that he’d sure love to have a nice dirt bike like mine. Didn’t think anything of it until later.. So off they went with my bike. I began the process of hunting down who &%$#@! this all up. I head to the MVD where the original inspection was passed/performed. They reprocess the title paper work and VIN and tell me they do not see a stolen report! They process and print me a duplicate title and tell me to go get my bike from the tow yard! Ecstatic, off I went to get my bike. At the yard I show my ID, registration and my title. Exactly what the sign on the wall says is required to recover property from the yard. The guy at the desk desk says this is an unusual circumstance and will have to have the bike inspected, that it’ll be a few weeks but if it passes ADOT inspection the bike would be returned without fees. In the meantime I make a report with ADOT and ask if they can expedite the inspection process. I also contact the confiscation officer who tells me I may never see the bike again because the investigation could take years. I also speak with the CA law enforcement office who took the stolen vehicle report and confirms the VIN.., but also tells me that the person who made the report was not the register owner! Bwaaa tf! in the meantime I speak with an Autotheft Authority Agent who tells me this is a unique case that is really fishy and that I was not at fault, that the MVD and reporting police agency screwed up. They suggest it could have to do with insurance fraud and suggest I continue to press on and investigate it in attempt to get my bike back. Two days later, an ADOT enforcement agent calls me to tell me the bike passed the VIN inspection, again. I ask if I can get my bike back, they say it’s up to the yard but they don’t see why not as I am the registered and titled owner. When I return to the yard they say they spoke with ADOT and are giving the previous owner 2 weeks to come get the bike. I argue that I just spoke with them and they have no right. The yard manager tells me if I continue to fight this he will make sure I never get my bike back! At this point I’m so pissed! But must be patient.. I patiently wait the two weeks and return to the yard to pick up my bike (02/04). Upon arrival I see the yard manager on the side of the building sitting on my bike. I enter the office where I’m told I must pay for the tow and storage fees. The yard manager comes in and sits there pointing his camera at me (picture attached). I argue I’ve the fees, then pay them and load up my bike. That night at home I inspect the bike. It had rained a bit over those two weeks so I wanted to make sure nothing had happened while it sat outside. The bike kicked right over, Idling just like before. The next day I take it for a test run. 30 minutes into my ride I hear a ”tink tink” like a rock kicking up into the engine, then the bike seize’s up. The Kickstart won’t budge. I immediately think of that &%$#@! yard manager sitting on my bike on the side of the building. I walk my bike 3 miles back home. Today I plan to pull the engine and begin the inspection. I really hope I don’t find any evidence of sabotage. If anyone has a PDF service manual they can email me, I would be greatly indebted to you and will donate to your beer or oil funds. Thanks for reading my story. All comments and suggestions welcomed.
  11. So I recently bought a locked up Crf150r for 250$ that is in really rough shape. I got the bike completely tore down and be cases split and everything looks very new like it just got rebuilt. The only damage i found was the cylinder had a a nick at the top, the piston oil ring was damaged and the underside of the piston had a bunch of nicks and small gouges in it like something from the bottom end broke into a bunch of small pieces and went up into the cylinder. I split the cases though and all the bearings and gears and everything showed no signs of damage. It had a wiseco crank in it that also looked brand new. I think the reason it was locked up was something with the piston, cylinder cuz once I got those out the crank and everything spun very smoothly and freely. The only thing that I am concerned about and need help with though is on the inside of the crankcase halves where the crank goes, there is some damage right in the middle all the way around. It looks like the main bearing went at some point and the crank crashed into the walls surrounding it and scored it up. There is also lots of nicks and gouges but not too bad. I just need to know if it is ok to run the cases like that or if I’ll need new cases or to get them worked on. I wouldn’t think it would affect anything because it doesn’t come in contact with the crank or anything but I just wanted to get somebodies opinion on it who knows what they are talking about before I spend a bunch of money and time rebuilding it just to have it blow up again in the 1st hour. Any help will be greatly appreciate. I’ll try to figure out how to post some pics of it to help out.
  12. I am in the process of replacing my crank case seal on my 200 exc, however as I took the case off I noticed that their is a small hole in the back bottom chamber where the power valve lever sets. It looks Manufactured this way and would be impossible to drill a perfect hole in that location. Anyway anyone know why this is that way? It is a bit confusing as it would allow oil to get into the PV and into the Piston and burn/smoke/splooge like crazy IE same Symptoms as a Compromised crank case seal. Am I just over thinking it? Any input would be great thanks!! 1st pic is of light in hole 2nd pic is close of of pick tool through hole 3rd is the PV chamber and location of said hole.
  13. Hi guys! I hace a little question about hsq SMR 510 2005 right side crankshaft bearing. I get bearings that are sealed on both sides so seal can be removed as required. I know that they must be both open on crank side but i dont know if i must remove seal on clutch side too. Bearing on clutch side failed so i think if it wasn't because of lack of lubricatin. Bearing on ignition side was ok. Thanks for all answers!
  14. Hi there peeps, I have recently dented and cracked my left side crankcase cover on my 02 DRZ-400S and this has left me with a slow but steady leak of engine oil. Needless to say, I now cannot ride and want to purchase a replacement as soon as possible so I can get back on the trails. I hear this is a common occurrence, as the OEM covers are made of fairly brittle magnesium... gonna invest in a cover guard from thumpertalk as well to prevent it happening in the future. Anyways, I found a site that sells the cover for what I think is a good deal, however there are 2 versions of the same part and I am unsure of which one to purchase. I have attached a photo illustrating the location of the crack as well as posted the link to the website. My question is, do I need part 18-1 or 18-2? Many thanks guys http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3af14f8700220d0b72914/crankcase-cover
  15. Hi, i am just looking for some advice regarding what year crank cases will fit my 2012 Yz250f, at the moment there is a small crack in the main bearing housing on the right hank crank case and i am looking at a picture online of a 2006 right crank case and they look identical. i know a 2005 case wont fit because of a different sump but will the 2006 or above fit? Thanks in advance, Ben
  16. Hi, I am trying to replace the counter balancer shaft in my 2011 wr 450. Everything has been fine until I got to splitting the crankcase. The manual says that I should remove the right CC half (as I understand this is the one with clutch) first and transmission and crankshaft should stay in the left half. Well, the opposite happened in my case 🙂 I did remove the right CC half but the transmission and the crankshaft stayed in and I lifted them up with it. It looks like the crankshaft is stuck in the right CC half - I tried to pull it out with my hands but It doesn't want to move (for now I avoided using a mallet - will it damage the bearing?). This worries me a little cause the manual says that it should practically slide out without any problems and in the current situation I cannot remove the counter balancer shaft cause the crankshaft is in its way. If anyone could help me with the following doubts that would be great 🙂 1. How can I remove the crankshaft from the right CC half without damaging the bearing? Is it possible at all in my case? 2. Is it normal that the crankshaft is stuck in the right CC half and slides out the other side easily? Or does it mean that something is wrong? Manual says that I have to use a special tool to put the crankshaft in the left CC half but in my case it goes in without any problems. It is not loose and there is no free play, though. Just goes in without too much force. 3. Once I am done. How do I install the crankshaft in the right CC half when it doesn't go in easily? I will appreciate any help here. Thanks a lot!
  17. 2008 crf450r- Attached is a picture of deep grooves in my crank case from running too wide of an o ring chain. This is after 4-6 hours of total engine riding time. The groove is probably 2-3mm deep. I realize the mistake I made and I have switched to a Narrow DID x ring chain. My question is. How can I repair this to prevent further damage? I was thinking job weld and a piece of thin aluminum or steel sheet metal. Maybe a washer in welded to the case? How thick is the case in this area and should I be worried about it cracking in the future?
  18. Help for ideas on getting this part out. The bottom portion of the push lever was stuck in the engine. I was trying to remove to replace the lever and oil seal, but it broke half-way out. The part left in the engine is about 1.75" down the hole. Ideas? I've invested quite a bit into fixing this engine, buying crank and starter clutch, etc; don't want to give up now! Edit: Perhaps if I grind away a section of the lever's chase and grind away the bit that's stuck too? Would that be a bad idea? It would basically just add a big hole in the chase, and oil gets in there anyway; this would just expose it to more oil... Edit 2: The "tab" is only 3mm thick, and the thing spins but won't come out of hole, so tapping that tab would be very difficult... Edit 3: Added pic of the crankcase side, indicating where I'm thinking of cutting into the case to get to it.
  19. Hello, I am rebuilding a 1993 Kawasaki KX250 and have run into an issue after recieving a different year case than what I was expecting (1993). I believe the case I received is an 89? But Im not to sure. The case I recieved doesnt fit with the ignition system meant for a 93, so i couldnt use it even if i wanted to. After searching on ebay and other parts sites I cant find any 93 left engine cases, and the only one ive found is attached to a whole bottom end and is nearly 500$. Does anyone know if i can slide a 92 case on my bike? Or a 94? Just curious to see if thats even an option. Thanks, Kaelan
  20. Hi, my crankcase on the gear shifter side is cracked. I jb welded it last year but took it more apart this year and a additional screw hole fell out. I tried to JB weld it again I really doubt it will be strong enough to hold a screw. Anyways the manual says that they make these cases in a set from factory so always buy them together. Has anyone been successful in buying just one side and it still fitting ok? my side costs 81.00 but the other side is 100.00. I just bought piston and rings this could be over 300 dollars aren't engine about 500.00? Seems like I should just buy a new motor? Thanks for any help!
  21. Hello, So my buddy got a cheap broken down project bike (2001 Yamaha YZ 125) and we originally found that the piston had a hole on its side, and the side of the cylinder was all scratched up. We sent the cylinder to get nikasiled, got a new piston and head gasket and drained all fluids. We found that the crankcase was full of this brown milky oily substance that will not drain. We determined it's probably coolant that mixed with the oil, but we have no idea how to properly get it out. We're thinking that maybe the drain is clogged somewhere, but liquids have drained before... Has anyone ever seen this? How did you deal with it?
  22. im trying to replace my clutch plates and my crank case cover will not come off its stuck above the oil filter the whole case is open expect above the oil filter. I've tried hammering around the case I hammered the metal studs around the case to slowly open it but the one stud broke don't want to break the case I need help I want to ride!!!
  23. I need a clutch side crankcase for my 2002 yz 125, but people said that if you put crankcases that were from different bikes, it would cause problems, also I can’t find a set of crankcases or one for a decent price
  24. So I picked up a complete 2008 RMZ250 in really good condition super cheap. Has issues but seem fixable namely kickstarter function and possible water pump. My question after reading alot of this thread on crankcase issues and transmission issues is this... what should I definitely seek to do to remedy as many common issues as possible with this year/model? Also what is most common to look for in these when pulling the motor apart and rebuilding and what should I address regardless while I have the cases split? Aside from seals/bearings. I hear the "shift detent spring" is a potential pending VIN split as it was more of an 07' issue. Below is what I've dug up on this year/model please expand and explain why if possible. Worst case I'll be cleaning and parting out a bunch of parts or stuffing a different motor in the frame and getting experimental. List: Check for crankcase failures on right case via kickstarter and or clutch vicinity due to weak casting in cases Shift Detent Spring and tumble the transmission to fix occasional false neutral **sometimes going with different oil fixes it**
  25. Hello, I recently picked up a 2006 Honda CR125R coming from a 2008 Yamaha yz85. In my YZ85, I normally ran 10w30 oil in the transmission. I used some top notch expensive stuff once but could not afford to pay $25 for oil since I ride trails and change the oil pretty much every 3 rides. In my 2006 Honda CR125, could I run the 10w30? Or is 10w40 better since my bike is older? Like I said, I ride trails. I mostly stay in the first 3 gears. I would MOSTLY like to know if either 10w30 or 10w40 is better considering I have both in my garage. Any help is appreciated! Thanks
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