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Found 24 results

  1. Hi noob here, It has probably been asked before but cant find any real solutions on here so sorry in advance. Does anyone know where I can get a fuel controller in the uk for a 2013 crf250l. Been in touch with dobeck and they want a fortune to ship to the uk and then will get clobbered for import and vat. Cheers Nelly666
  2. I tried searching the forum for this specific question and found nothing about performing a valve clearance check on a 2017 CRF250L. I just purchased a 2017 CRF250L and have noticed how the new model varies from previous years on when you should check the valve clearance. On previous years it is recommend to check the valve clearance on the first service which is at 600 miles along with changing the oil and oil filter. According to both my Owners Manual that came with the bike and also the Honda Repair Manual, they both state that it is recommend to check the valve clearance at 16,000 miles and it does not mention checking the valves at 600 miles. Is this one of the changes that Honda has made to 2017 model? Also, the bike has 730 miles on it and I have changed the oil and oil filter. I have noticed that the bike started to make some "valve train" noise at about 150 miles. The engine noise is audible from 5,000 rpm to about 6,500 rpm after the engine is warmed up. The noise slightly dissipated after my first oil change and I started to ride it much harder, but the noise is still there. Not sure if this is normal for the engine. Found some people on other forums talking about this, but I found it difficult to find a solid answer. Any thoughts? Any feedback would help. Thanks.
  3. This is my first post here, been reading on TT for quite a while but didn't have a bike. I've been modding my 15 CRF250L over the past couple weeks and just ran into an issue. I am running a very similar set up as gnath (maybe others but his comes to mind) with the Rox 2" pivot risers, Pro Taper Evo bars, and the HDB hand guards. I have the 106 x 38/40 pattern ADVx top plate. Started installing the bars today and just can not get the HDB top plate to align with the Rox risers. Fiddled with it quite a while and noticed the Rox pattern is wider than the factory pattern. I think my issue is the anti-vibe Rox risers are machined different than the standard risers. I saw that the bottom of the pivoting part of the riser was touching so I broke out the grinder and took 1-2 mm off this area and was able to get the risers tight against the factory point - can't take more material off without getting nervous about the integrity of the risers. After this I still couldn't get the top plate to line up. I tried loosening the vibe attachment and tried bolting them in multiple arrangements but just can't get it to fit. I measured the bolt pattern with calipers and the Rox risers end up being 113/114 x 38. (3-4mm too wide per side) I'm thinking about calling a friend with a milling machine and trying to elongate the HDB top clamp 3.5mm wider on each side, basically making the bolt holes into slots. Anyone with experience with these that know if I'm somehow making this more difficult than it needs to be? I appreciate any advice you guys may have. I really like the anti-vibe part of the risers, ran them for about 100 miles with the stock bars (with the spacers to fit on the 7/8s factory bars) and love the feeling so I do not really want to go to solid risers if I can help it.
  4. 2016CRF250Lover

    13 thooth sproket change

    Hello Everyone, I Am trying to change my sprocket from a 14 tooth to a 13 tooth on my 2016 CRF250L to get a little more low end power since I ride about 80/20 dirt/road. I have watched some YouTube videos and I see it shouldn't be that hard. I was wondering though, Will I have loosen the back tire/chain tensioner? It looks to me like I could just take of the OEM sprocket off the chain and put the new one on but that's not what I'm seeing online. (Please do note I'm only changing the front sprocket). If anyone has a good/clear directions of how to do this change I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks! ALSO since I'm making a post anyway. Does anyone else's brakes sort off squeak/grind after riding a lot off road? It seems like dirt may have gotten in front brake. The brakes only have 350 miles on them so I know there not bad. Any info helps!!!
  5. The first year I owned my 250L, I gooned around in supermoto trim 100% of the time. If I wanted to ride off-road I would trailer my dirt bike since there are no extensive public trails within 1 hour of my home. 6 months ago I wore out my street supermoto tires again. Got busy, never ordered replacements so I swapped over to the stock wheels and tires. I started venturing further out to do more off-road. This eventually led to rim locks, better tires, skid plate, full RaceTech suspension and some supplemental luggage. The luggage I've been carrying is basic. Wolfman enduro tank bag, Wolfman fender bag, Wolfman bottle holder with 1L of extra fuel. I also ride with an off brand CamelBak. I carry basic tools, 1 spare tube and 2 spoons, phone, charger, air pressure guage, bike pump, zip ties, GoPro stuff. I'm getting bored of the local riding area and I want to start taking full day trips. I ride alone most of the time, I probably prefer it even. My questions: What is your must have gear for day trips that might also fit in my current bare bones luggage? I don't want more bags. I don't have rain gear except for my tank bag. I figure if it's calling for rain I'm not going and if it rains late in the day, I'm headed home. Bad idea? Do any of you trailer your bike to get closer to the action? Most of the riding I want to do is in the mountains of NC. I'm about 1.5-2 hours east of the roads I'm trying to get to. That's an extra 3+ hours of riding to get to the good spots and get home! What do you use for GPS? I use google maps on my phone typically. However I don't expect to have service in some locations. Does anyone use a device like the Garmin InReach? My wife would prefer I get one of those since I ride alone and will be on remote forest roads. Thanks for the advice.
  6. arthrodoc

    Windscreen

    Just posted in the marketplace: my very mildly used TCI adventure touring windscreen. Worked well, but I've since sold the bike so no longer need it.
  7. I know the throttle body is 38mm (2mm up from 2016) also a revised air-box, reshaped air boot, new muffler design and a larger-diameter exhaust head pipe. my question is can you install a big bore kit on this? i haven't seen anything stating that it will work for the 2017 model (my guess is it will but i'm not an engineer). Thanks for the help.
  8. I apologize if I'm just beating a dead horse. This question was probably asked a million times and I already read through multiple threads but I'm still a little unsure. Please help me decide which is a better bike for me. Maybe someone already went through similar dilemmas, skill development progressions and can relate. I'm new to motorcycles in general. I've been riding mountain bikes and would like to expand into dual sport. 36 y.o., 5'11', 175lbs, relatively fit Plan to ride single tracks, fire roads in the Rockies, probably up to a moderate level when I feel I'm ready. Would love to do some easier Moab trails to start. I like to get out of my comfort zone to challenge myself time from time. Commuting on local roads. Occasionaly cruise at 65mph to get to trails. Will be avoiding major highways for the most part. I've tested CRF250L ABS, WR250 and DRZ400S on pavement only, all 2017. My initial thoughts: CRF250L was the easiest to handle, very friendly throttle, clutch and transmission. WRR was in the middle, being slightly more aggressive. DRZ felt least nimble but with strong, easy to manage power. I could flatfoot CRF with a slight bend in my knees. The other two I can flatfoot in boots. All of these seemed like great bikes. However, I haven't ridden them in dirt and I'm not sure if I'll grow out of CRF too quickly with its soft suspension and least amount of power or WRR and DRZ will be too much for my skill level at this point. Thank you!
  9. Sacco

    Bike Repossession

    Well, I did everything that I could, but it turns out that I am just not able to afford to keep my bike. This is truly a sad time for me and now I'm trying to recoup some money on all of these parts I had bought. From my understanding, the classified section of the forum is down? I'm looking for a good way to post what I have for sale. Parts include: Full FMF exhaust with the megabomb mid-pipe, EJK tuner, and Racetech Suspension kit (Gold Valves, Spring kit, and rear shock) which was never installed. I weigh 165lbs and had the rear shock set up for enduro style riding. I will post pics of everything when I get home along with rough prices on everything that I have. I just wanted to put this info out there, and to see where the most appropriate place to post would be. Thanks in advance for any information that you can give me, and feel free to PM me if you want to make an offer on anything before I post again.
  10. Hello all. I just finished my first oil change on my bike, and it is also the first oil change for the bike in general. I filled the bike up with oil, started it up for about 20-30 secs and it went back down below min (im assuming thats the filter filling up) then i topped it off twice more and realized i over filled it slightly. when the bike is standing up you can just see a little air pocket at the top of the window. Is this enough over that I need to worry and try to drain some or will that be about close enough to be OK?
  11. I am considering buying a crf 250l dual sport. I like the size and seems like the perfect lil bike to whip around town in. Its my alternative to a scooter. Not to mention the price tag is very attractive. I'd like to make it into a scrambler. My buddy told me this would be difficult because this particular bike has a perimeter frame, and a metal gas tank wouldn't properly fit. Also the radiator is up front under the plastics and would stick out funny. Any ideas and could someone school me on what a perimeter frame is and why a cool looking metal gas tank won't fit? Any ideas on how to make this possible? I know the xr 650 could work but I like how small and cheap the 250 is. Thanks
  12. I'm looking to get into the dirt bike market. I currently have a bike for the road - a Suzuki TU250X. This has quite a low seat height - 770mm or roundabouts - and this is comfortable for me. I could go an extra few centimetres particularly because dirt bikes are generally more narrow (so my legs won't be as wide apart) and I'd have thick dirt bike boots on. The dirt bike that I do get needs to be road legal as I want to ride it in national parks etc. rather then just private property. There are plenty of road registrable dirt bikes out there but the seat heights are insane. Most being around 870mm - 940mm which is way to high for me. I'm 5'2" with an inseam of about 63cm (I think). So, as you can imagine it's hard finding something that fits - with most bikes leaving my feet dangling. I have been looking at the Honda CRF250L, as its stock seat height is smaller then most. It looks like something that is marketed at the weekend trail rider rather than hard core enduro or motocross rider and that's fine by me - I just want something easy to ride. Its stock seat height is 875mm and I want to know what the best ways of lowering it - I don't weigh too much so lowering the suspension is okay (I know it affects the ride). Does anyone have suggestions? I also see the Suzuki DR200S - with a seat height of 845mm (which is lower) but I have to say I'm not keen on the way it looks... Silly I know. Suggestions on lowering this one? Otherwise, are there any other suggestions of bike model and their lowering techniques.? I'd rather not have a bike less than 200cc's. 250cc-300cc's is ideal. Any help would be amazing. I have been looking for some time but I am striking out. Thanks in advance!
  13. Honda gave me the chance to come ride their new CRF250L and CRF250L Rally bikes recently out at JCRHonda HQ in Murrieta, CA. If you ever get a chance to meet the legend (11X Baja winner) Johnny Campbell and ride what is arguable the best trail bike in the world on about 120 miles of dirt and paved backroads then you'd best take it! This was truly a LOT of fun. That's right, I said trail bike but don't let that fool you. It is important to understand what these bikes are and what they're not. The CRF250L is the best selling dual sport bike in the US with about a 20% share (according Honda Powersports US) but at 250cc's one is not likely to be roosting, jumping water bars or scrubbing doubles/triples on an mx track. I liken it to their CRV SUV; definitely not a Baja 1000 contender but a capable and popular vehicle nonetheless. I have some experience with the Yamaha XT250 and had a ton of fun on that one as well. I'm also interested to see how this CRF250L and Rally replica versions do against the new Versys-X 300 and BMW's new Mini-GS. Interesting article here on those. CRF250L: $5,149 Description from Honda's press kit: Already popular with new riders for its great street performance and willingness to explore dirt roads, Honda’s 250cc class dual-sport motorcycle gets a number of important upgrades for the 2017 model year. The compact liquid-cooled DOHC 249cc single-cylinder powerplant produces smooth and consistent torque at low rpm to aid off-road work, yet the short-stroke engine also spins up excellent high-rpm performance for the street. Its chassis, which includes a long-travel 43mm inverted fork and single-shock Pro-Link® rear suspension, makes it equally at home on city streets or country trails. And with styling cues carried over from Honda’s incredible 2017 CRF450R motocross bike, the CRF250L offers the full package, whether the day calls for low-cost transportation, a weekday commute or genuine dual-sport adventure. Some key improvements over last year's model: 38mm throttle body (+2mm vs last year), 100mm longer airboot (better throttle response), two-chamber aluminum muffler (lighter, improved feeling), larger header pipe (+10mm to 38mm), new ECU, now with tachometer, LED bulb, available ABS, updated graphics, updated license plate holder and taillight, aluminum rims (less unsprung mass, better suspension handling).. I noticed the ample sized pegs and was told these are actually larger than what come on the CRF1000L Africa Twin. My Impressions All I really have to compare this bike to is the '16 Yamaha XT250. I can say that the CRF250L is a step above in design as well as performance; better suspension, smoother power, more attractive design and better ergonomics. On slight inclines (pavement) I topped out at 55 mph; flat pavement 65 mph was easy and downhill got it maxed at 79 mph! That pretty much met my expectations for a 250cc trail bike and my size (6'3" 240 lbs). Lighter riders at the press launch were reporting a lot more "fun factor" than I was. Seat was plenty comfortable with virtually no vibration. We had the pleasure of riding some pretty basic dirt but in the few challenging sections the CRF250L handled them with ease. I'm more an adventure or trail rider and a bike like this, and maybe more with the Rally version, seems like a popular option for a round the world traveler. I would seriously consider riding this bike all throughout Mexico and beyond given its simplicity, capability and rock solid reliability. On Instagram check out CRF250L riders: bybdk, gizmoinstas, sodem1990, patriot_usmc, sir.braaaps.alot Honda set us up with the REVER app (REVER.co) which I've used for two years now but up to now only to record my rides. We followed gps tracks via the REVER app and it was cool! I'm totally going to do that again with my gps tracks. Much easier and readable than my Garmin 60Csx! CRF250L Rally: $5,899 Description from Honda's press kit: Inspired by the factory CRF450 Rally machine raced in the Dakar by Team Monster Energy Honda, and based on the standard CRF250L, the CRF250L Rally is ready for weekend adventure or the daily commute. Featuring styling that evokes images of adventure and travel, the bike has long-travel suspension, large disk brakes (with available ABS), excellent weather protection and an impressive cruising range. Engine performance combines solid bottom-end torque with substantial top-end power. Some key distinguishing features (performance features identical to the CRF250L): 30mm longer fork travel (taller, 11" front; 10.3" rear), updated radiator shrouds (vertical split like 450 Rally), 2.7 gallon tank (vs 2.1), asymmetric LED headlights (matches look of 450 Rally), fuel gauge/tachometer, larger 296mm front rotor (for added weight), My Impressions This isn't obviously a true rally bike but a rally replica. It's certainly high on style but the protection the fairing provides from wind pressure and the larger tank (fuel range) are very attractive as well as functional features for me and my style of riding (more trail and adventure). This is NOT a Starbucks poser bike. It can get the job done even though I was feeling the extra ~30 lbs (ABS, fuel tank, etc...). You'll see later in the video that this bike was able to handle some tricky trail situations easily. This test was in the daytime but I know these lights will throw out a ton of lumens at night and really light up the trail (no need for aux lights). If I had anything negative to mention they're really small things... I'm not sure if it's the larger tank or how it's mounted but I did feel more vibration at higher RPM's than the base CRF250L. The brake and ABS lines loop up in front of the display and if you want to push the buttons on the display you kind of have to either reach over these or they're in the way of your hand coming directly at the buttons. The bike is +30lbs over the base model and when I consider adding panniers and gear then I anticipate even less oomph. Photo Gallery (check back soon) Video Details: Helmet: Icon Raiden Variant Deployed Com's: Sena 10C Gloves: RacerGloves Mickey Glove Boot: Alpinestars Tech 10 Pants: IconRaiden Arakis Jacket: FirstGear USA (prototype) Tires: IRC Tracking: SPOT Gen3 Navigation: REVER app
  14. Anyone heard this noise coming from under the gas tank when throttle changes? 250 miles 2017 rally. No mods.
  15. I am considering buying a crf 250l dual sport. I like the size and seems like the perfect lil bike to whip around town in. Its my alternative to a scooter. Not to mention the price tag is very attractive. I'd like to make it into a scrambler. My buddy told me this would be difficult because this particular bike has a perimeter frame, and a metal gas tank wouldn't properly fit. Also the radiator is up front under the plastics and would stick out funny. Any ideas and could someone school me on what a perimeter frame is and why a cool looking metal gas tank won't fit? Any ideas on how to make this possible? I know the xr 650 could work but I like how small and cheap the 250 is. Thanks
  16. So I have made some modifications to my 250L over the last few years, and I have never felt like I can get the speedo adjusted properly. In my experience everyone here is familiar with the 250L stock specs so I will leave them out. Below are the modifications that will affect the speedo, please let me know if I have left anything out that could be part of my issue. Front/Rear wheel are stock 17's for a CRF250M Rear tire size is 140/80-17 (Shinko 705) Sprocket setup is 14/42 (Still using a 106 link chain) I have used several tire size calculators to determine the tire diameter (see attached images) and I cannot explain why the tire circumference is LARGER with a smaller rim. Thoughts? As always, thank you in advance for the help everyone!
  17. Cameron Kraushar

    Adventure riding with the crf 250l

    Hey everyone, I have a couple questions to do with me crf 250l not the rally. I am planning to go on a trip from BC Canada down to panigonia. I have to 250l right now totally stock and I need to know what I should do for exaust mods, power mods, things like that. I would like to be doing more highway type riding the way down. While in Mexico I will be doing some dirt road riding. But I need to know what I should do to upgrade the top speed, or do I not need to. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks in advance!
  18. Hey guys! I'm back from the cross country trip! I've actually been back for a while, but, I've been busy.... I did get the EJK installed before the trip , and I'm glad I did so! It was almost night and day, anyways here is the link to my old thread for references Anyways now that I'm back, I've decided that the pipe is not for me, I also removed some packing from it for the wow effect, but I'm ready to just drop the two bros and pick up a full kit from a company (No offense @Ducky Dog and @gnath9 but I'll stay widely manufactured products on this build). So I guess, what is the best full kit, cost wise, and performance wise..... I don't want to pay more for something that doesn't give a great improvement over the competition... So what full kit would you recommend? Also I'd be willing to sell my slip on m7 for Cheap if someone wants it.... It sounds really loud, I can post a vid if anyone is interested! Thanks, Ethan
  19. Austin3103_S

    Crf250l or Wr250r

    I'm thinking of saving up for either the crf250l or wr250r. I would ride mostly to school and on trails around my place. I'm 14 6'3 and weigh around 140. And considering the wr getting discontinued, I don't have much choice on getting a brand new bike. But I would still like to have you guy's opinions on which I should get. Thanks
  20. Hey guys, this is gonna sound really funny, but I have never ridden a formal motocross bike... I have only ever rode a KX65 (if you would even consider it a motocross bike), but I am 270-280 pounds and 6'1 so I had my legs over the handle bars and shifted with my hand.... So I wouldn't really consider that riding (I only made it about 30 yards before I fell sideways cause the powerband wouldn't hit in first gear), but in my "stable" I have a 2012 TTR-125 (Rigged up suspension to make extremely stiff for the weight), my ol' 1982 Kawasaki KD80 (about 65 PSI compression or so (Legit can turn it over by hand while its on the stand) but once it warms up gets reasonable compression), the CRF2sexyL (CRF250l) (Has a Two Brothers M7 Slip-On, EJK, CBR250R friction plate, Barnett Clutch springs for a CBR300R, 13t sprocket, Some handguards, Seat Concepts Seat, getting it from the shop today with a Full Race Tech Suspension overhaul, and probably some other stuff I forgot about), an Orion 70 (Chinese bike for my little brother when he comes to visit), and soon to be a DRZ-400 (Not sure S or E, but will add FMF full pipe and whatever the DRZ needs), a soon to be a CRF150R (and a custom seat (The person who I am buying this bike for rented one and said it turned his buttucks into hamburger meat)), hopefully a WR450R in the next couple years (Going to be dual-sportified MAYBE) or maybe a KTM 500 EXC (I am hesitant to KTM for some reason, just don't like orange I guess)... I won't ride the CRF150R since it won't formally be mine, so what is a motorcross bike like compared to all of my trail bikes? I have always riden trails, but I have been riding at Durham Town (google it), and the TTR-125 doesn't have enough oomph, and the CRF250L still might not have enough suspension (they have some gnarly trails).... Do I need a true motocross bike? Or will the race tech be enough? Really I just want a comparison of power and suspension, etc.... Should be a fun topic! P.S If anybody wants to ride at Durham Town I live like 25 minutes away, we could meet and ride! Ethan
  21. Majstro_Vakr

    Majstro Vakr

    I'm a Mechanical Engineer researching modifications for a 2015 CRF250L, I have plenty of information from manufacturers but I'm particularly interested in owners experience and results for various mods. Just wondering about opinions on the best EFI controllers for the CRF250L (2013-2016), primarily on the stock bike (but modded bike info also welcomed) ie. actual results rather than manufacturer claims. How is fuel economy affected? Increases/losses in power? Too rich A/F ratio? etc............ Also, if possible the best settings for each mode used. From what I've read on TT, an EFI controller provides better results when working alongside air intake mods, aftermarket exhausts, etc. but feel free to correct me EJK seem to be a popular brand but I'm aware there are a number of others. Any information or opinions is greatly appreciated. MV
  22. Hey All, I'm looking at getting a new bike. At the moment, I own about 120 acres of land, that is a couple of kilometres/miles from a State Forest. This means I can register my bike, and ride from my place to the forest trails and back. Most of my riding will be off-road, however, I also need something that can handle a little bit of tarmac. What I am wondering is, I don't want to be spending a lot, should I go for the CRF250L, or the WR250R (however, I am worried it is a bit too much money), or would something else be better for that little bit of tarmac I have to go on? Cheers.
  23. How much of a performance bump is there when putting a full exhaust, ejk, and modding the air box on a crf250l? Are there any dyno numbers?
  24. I enjoy riding flowing single track and double track with some small technical sections, nothing insane. I'm also way too cheap to spend thousands of $$$ every riding season on maintenance and rebuilds. I've owned a dual sport 1987 XL185 that was underpowered but predictable and a 1991 YZ125 that was overpowering and exhausting in technical stuff (though I'm not a fan of 2-stroke exhaust and noise). I'm 6'1" and 200 lbs with riding gear. I've narrowed down my choices to Honda CRF250L (heavy and underpowered but low maintenance), Honda CRF250X (smooth power but expensive maintenance), Husky TE250 (smooth power and easier maintenance than CRF250X), Husky WR125 (super light weight and easy maintenance but 2-stroke) and KDX200 (cheap, lightweight but 2-stroke). I realize that the CRF250L is more road oriented and closer to my vintage XL185 - I'm considering putting on more aggressive tires and raising the bars. I like that the CRF250L engine has a 8,000km service interval though it is greatly underpowered. I don't mind trailering a bike, so road worthiness is not a deal breaker. I'm concerned the CRF250L will be cramped for my 6'1" size and I've read that the rear suspension is too soft and sags significantly for anyone over 180 lbs. The CRF250X seems like the best choice for single track and woods riding but I've read that rebuilds can be expensive and complicated. I've ridden the CRF250X a few times and it feels slightly bogged down at lower rpm. The TE250 frame and design look easier for rebuild/maintenance and people have said it is more agile (I've raced mountain bikes most of my life so I appreciate a maneuverable bike). I'm only considering the 2-stroke WR125 and KDX200 because they are super lightweight and should have a smoother power delivery and better low-end grunt than my old YZ125 on the trails. I'm not a fan of the sound or smell of 2-strokes but if it makes the riding experience that much better I would consider a 2-stroke. Hoping to get some feedback before the spring riding season.
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