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Found 33 results

  1. Parker_B30

    Electrical Problems

    Recently I was riding my 2005 250X and the headlight quit working. The bulb appears to be fine so I checked the voltage at the headlight plug in. I got a reading of 3.5V which does not seem right. I also do not have the tailight in because it does not work and was wondering if this would cause problems. My starter does not always work either, sometimes it starts right up and other times it just turns over but will kick start first try. Lastly is there any brighter headlight bulb that can be put in without modifying stator? I have looked at the PIAA 70023 but did not know if this was a good option. Any help is appreciated.
  2. DirtRider250x

    CRF250x fuel tank to fix CRF250r

    Just wondering if a larger honda crf250x fuel tank will fit a 2011 crf250r without any modifications Cheers
  3. Hey guys, I've recently purchased a 05 crf250x and noticed a loud noise coming from the top end. It looks like it is the auto decompression thing. From the 2 videos (linked below) does everything look good? When riding if I am low rpm, the top end makes a horrible noise but it seems to go away once I open it up. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Also it looks like it is running aftermarket cams, Hot Cams it says on them which I presume isn't standard. Video 1): Video2): Thank you! -Sean
  4. Parker_B30

    Hard start CRF250X

    Hi everyone, I just recently bought a 2005 CRF250X with 96 hours on the stock motor. Rode it allele bit when I got home and began realizing its got some issues. When I got it it was harder to start than it seemed like it should have been, and I just figured it was the carb needing cleaned as it hadn't been ridden very much the past two years. I have put about 4 hours on the bike since I got it, and gradually it has been getting harder and harder to start. It is mostly harder when hot but also when cold. The people told me the valves had been adjusted in the last two years but did not have any proof of it. Is the hard starting a sign of the valves being shimmed enough to sell then after I've ridden it for a few hours going out completely? Or could this be that the carb is in fact very dirty and needs re-jetted to make it run correctly, the people did say it was running rich and can tell as once and awhile it blows black smoke. And it blows a slight bit of blue smoke start up so wonder if ultimately it needs a full rebuild and if so what the cost of this would be? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  5. Parker_B30

    Hard start CRF250X

    Hi everyone, I just recently bought a 2005 CRF250X with 96 hours on the stock motor. Rode it allele bit when I got home and began realizing its got some issues. When I got it it was harder to start than it seemed like it should have been, and I just figured it was the carb needing cleaned as it hadn't been ridden very much the past two years. I have put about 4 hours on the bike since I got it, and gradually it has been getting harder and harder to start. It is mostly harder when hot but also when cold. The people told me the valves had been adjusted in the last two years but did not have any proof of it. Is the hard starting a sign of the valves being shimmed enough to sell then after I've ridden it for a few hours going out completely? Or could this be that the carb is in fact very dirty and needs re-jetted to make it run correctly, the people did say it was running rich and can tell as once and awhile it blows black smoke. And it blows a slight bit of blue smoke start up so wonder if ultimately it needs a full rebuild and if so what the cost of this would be? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  6. I recently bought a 2005 crf250x, and am looking to get a lexx exhaust. Does anyone have experience with jetting these? I will be riding from about sea level - 1,500 feet. Bike has top of airbag cut off, Boysen accelerator pump, and all stock motor. I was thinking starting with 155 main jet, 42 pilot, and 2 turns out on fuel screw. Also what is the procedure for getting the idle jet out, will i need new seals for the carb? And how should I proceed with needle? I was wanting to just buy individual jets to save on price or is it worth it to get a JD kit? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  7. Carman

    Hotcam identification

    I'm trying to figure out what cam is in my 06 250x. On the end opposite the timing gear it says SF057 HOTCAMS 1196 im not sure if it's a stage 1 or 2 any help is appreciated
  8. GregWB

    Swing Arm - Grease Nipples

    Has anyone fitted grease nipples to the rear suspension component and swing arm to CRF250X? Compared with my old XR350R, is ain’t a step backwards not being able to grease the CRF.
  9. Hey guys I have a crf250x 2005 and I recently changed the both oils (the tranny and the engine) and I put 10w-40 in both cause that’s what the manual said and when I changed it my bike sounded quite than usual and when it idols it sounds like it’s cutting in and out. It’s also got the stock exsaughst and header with the spark erester taken out What do I do to fix this???????
  10. I enjoy riding flowing single track and double track with some small technical sections, nothing insane. I'm also way too cheap to spend thousands of $$$ every riding season on maintenance and rebuilds. I've owned a dual sport 1987 XL185 that was underpowered but predictable and a 1991 YZ125 that was overpowering and exhausting in technical stuff (though I'm not a fan of 2-stroke exhaust and noise). I'm 6'1" and 200 lbs with riding gear. I've narrowed down my choices to Honda CRF250L (heavy and underpowered but low maintenance), Honda CRF250X (smooth power but expensive maintenance), Husky TE250 (smooth power and easier maintenance than CRF250X), Husky WR125 (super light weight and easy maintenance but 2-stroke) and KDX200 (cheap, lightweight but 2-stroke). I realize that the CRF250L is more road oriented and closer to my vintage XL185 - I'm considering putting on more aggressive tires and raising the bars. I like that the CRF250L engine has a 8,000km service interval though it is greatly underpowered. I don't mind trailering a bike, so road worthiness is not a deal breaker. I'm concerned the CRF250L will be cramped for my 6'1" size and I've read that the rear suspension is too soft and sags significantly for anyone over 180 lbs. The CRF250X seems like the best choice for single track and woods riding but I've read that rebuilds can be expensive and complicated. I've ridden the CRF250X a few times and it feels slightly bogged down at lower rpm. The TE250 frame and design look easier for rebuild/maintenance and people have said it is more agile (I've raced mountain bikes most of my life so I appreciate a maneuverable bike). I'm only considering the 2-stroke WR125 and KDX200 because they are super lightweight and should have a smoother power delivery and better low-end grunt than my old YZ125 on the trails. I'm not a fan of the sound or smell of 2-strokes but if it makes the riding experience that much better I would consider a 2-stroke. Hoping to get some feedback before the spring riding season.
  11. Kenneth Crawford

    Help my 250x is acting up

    Hi guys, I am new to this forum. Hopefully you guys can give me some insight or have experienced this yourselves. I have a 04 crf250x bike has been running awesome for some time now. I took her for a spin today and while I was riding noticed the clutch lever didn't feel like it had the same spring to it, almost like the clutch was hanging up. As I was riding I touched the adjustment sleeve up near the perch. It was hot, so much so it melted through my glove, I pulled over immediately and found that the cable was smoking behind my headlight/number plate and it eventually caught on fire! I turned the bike off, and it seemed to stop but I fired it back up to get it to my house. When I got to my house I shut the bike off. I pulled the front number plate off and found some of the insulation on the wires had been melted. Now the bike won't start, kick or button, with the button I don't even get a click. I checked the main fuse and it wasn't blown. The clutch pulls no problem aside from the fact it's insulation melted off as well. Before I start tearing it down is there anything I should start with that may be easy, it does have the original clutch, but I have been good about keeping up with the fluid. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, Ken
  12. I am wanting to start riding dirt bikes again. I am 15 years old 6 foot 150 pounds and i now have a raptor 250r all modded out and had a ttr 125 that was modded. I have been riding dirt bikes and 4 wheelers since i was little so im not a beginner and want to know if the crf 250x would be a good choice. I ride mostly trails and like to ride aggressively.
  13. naromando

    Piston, Rings, Valves Rebuild Help

    I have a 2009 CRF250X. It was in dire need of a new piston, rings, valves, springs, and reshimming; the bike had zero compression prior to doing this work, I let it go far too long. I couldn't get valves back into tolerance by just shimming either. I did the job myself and this is the first time I've done any of this, just teaching myself from YouTube and the service manual. I did have the valve seats done by the local shop to make sure that was done right since the valves ate into the seats pretty well. I finished the job and it runs again. It will only start by using the kick start though. The electric start turns the engine over, but it won't start even after the bike is warm. Also, it stalls after sitting idle for a little bit in neutral. I tried adjusting idle screw and it will stay running if I have the idle high enough, but then it is set too high for normal use. Other than these 2 issues, the rebuild seems to have been successful! I'm looking for help on what you guys think the issue could be that it doesn't want to start with the electric starter, but will with the kick start??? And also reasons it could be stalling at idle after a job like this??? Where should I start?
  14. MNThumper250

    Decarbonizing a 4 Stroke Dirt Bike HELP

    I recently did a valve check on my CRF250X. All the valves were in spec except for one exhaust valve, which was WAY out of spec. I think there is supposed to be a .010-.012 gap to be in spec, but mine is at .018, which is much too loose. I think there might be some carbon build up on the valve, so I was trying to research some decarbonizing methods. Right now I'm trying to decide whether: A. use some sea foam and add that to the tank B. take off the air box and use a spray bottle of water with the bike at high RPM's or C. take off the head and check/clean carbon manually. Last riding season I checked the valves and all were in spec. I then installed the JD jet kit (much richer jetting), which is why I think this is probably a carbon build up issue. Any advice/suggestions?
  15. Fitz2017

    CRF250X/450X Valve Adjustment

    I'm looking to pay someone in the Denver metro area to teach me how to adjust the valves on my Honda CRF250X. I'm tired of taking the bike to the dealer every few weeks and paying to get it done. If you know what you're doing with Honda 4-strokes and want to make $300 to teach me how to do this, let me know. Or if you know someone with Honda 4-stroke experience who wants to earn some $, let me know. The YouTube videos make it look easy, but I don't feel comfortable taking the engine apart to that extent, yet.
  16. Casey Rogers

    Kill switch not working 2005 Crf250x

    I have a 2005 crf250x and one day it wouldnt turn off. Later i was riding and i dumped it and it started working. Next weekend on the next ride half way through I hadent dumped it sense the last time and it stopped working. I got a new kill switch and did the clutch saftey by pass and it still isnt working. The battary termald are tight and all the connections I can see are in. What could it be? My next step it taking off the gas tank and inspecting the wire and seeing if they are pinched. Thanks
  17. Ever been bored or really ticked off by not being able to reach your fuel screw for trailside adjustments? Well, I decided to do something about it, and not spend a bunch of money to boot! Parts liste included: Short length of brass tube. Short piece of old, broken speedometer inner cable. Nut from the rejects bin. I welded the nut to the speedometer cable inner and soldered the other end to the fuel screw using the brass tube as a connector. I didn't need or fab up a holder for the end, but I wouldn't be too hard. My DIY flexible fuel mixture screw works great and the price is right! I highly recommend this mod. Cheap, but effective DIY fuel mixture screw
  18. So I’ve got a 09 crf250x and from every angle I’ve been shouted that the airbox mod will be the best thing in world along with a jd jetting kit. At this time I’ll being using the stock exhaust, so I’m wondering if doing these mods will void the registerablilty of the bike. I’m in nsw Australia. Also, anyone with experience with this mod, does it make it louder? As that is the main issue with getting is registered. I’m planning on doing the mod this afternoon so if someone could let me know ASAP that’d be awesome cheers
  19. Ferhuagarz

    High RPM Scraping Noise 2011 CRF250x

    I have a 2011 CRF250x, I've always been on top of maintenance, never really flogged the bike. From about this time last year the bike developed a sort of rubbing/scraping noise coming from the left side of the motor only when it was 3/4 throttle or more. I thought it might have been drivetrain so I pulled over, put it in neutral and did the same thing (3/4 throttle and more) while sitting still and it did the same thing. The bike sat in the shed for about 6 months and then I took it out to see if I could figure it out. I pulled the valve cover off and everything seemed normal, nothing loose, valves still in clearances. I also pulled the cam chain tensioner out, I wasn't game enough to go further so I put it back together and started it. No noise. It was fine, I rode it for about 1-2 months with no noise at all. I had to get a friend to ride it to get it inspected for road worthy and the noise is back. I've tried taking the cam chain tensioner out again and it hasn't worked this time. The noise has also become worse and at lower RPM (more like 2/3 throttle now). I'm wondering if this has been experienced by anyone else also and how they fixed it. I'm not game enough to continue riding it as I'm not sure whether the noise is something going bad. I'm keen to fix the problem as I've been without a bike for so long, I just don't have the money to pay someone to dig around the bike for me. Thanks in advance
  20. JacksonDRZbeast

    CRF250X Converion to SM Tips

    I am currently in the thought process of purchasing a crf250x and converting to supermoto to get it registered for road use. Just wondering if anyone has converted and what tips you would have for me to maybe make it easier? I already have a set of SM wheels off my drz that will fit with new spacers. Any advice will help!
  21. Hi everyone, I am a 5'5 150lb 16 year old. I have ridden 4 wheelers all my life and just recently sold my 400ex and am looking to get into dirt bike riding as thats what most of my friends ride. I cannot decide a good bike to get as a beginner because of my height. Two of friends have WR250f and two of them have CRF150R. We ride mostly trails and some Motocross. I like the size of the 150r's as I can easily touch, but do not want the high strung high maintenance motor. The problem with the WR is I can hardly touch the ground which scares me everytime I go to stop. I would like a CRF250X, but do not know if it will be too much to start on or if it will be too tall, I am not afraid to buy lowering links, shave seat foam, and slide forks up until i get more comfortable on the bike. I have considered 230's but think i want better suspension for hitting jumps. Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks.
  22. Connor Wright

    What oil can I put in my crf250x

    Hey I’ve got an 05 crf250x I was wondering what engine/transmission oil I can put in it cause the manual says ether 10w-40 or 20w-40 I don’t really know what the numbers mean anyway I wanted to know whether I could put 15w-40 in it cause I have access to it at home but I don’t know if I should put it in the bike or not.
  23. my 06 250x is in for a rebuild and I'm not sure what crank to use. I rode mostly trails with some roads, never at or near rev limiter and maintain it well. i got over 200hr out of the stock engine (valves,piston,rings etc) and i am only rebulding it because its winter and its smoking. valves are still good. i run a stage 2 cam and a jardine full exhaust, ccc mods and backfire screen removed. the stock crank has a little bit more side play than id like and for peace of mind i want to replace it and all the gaskets and such. i have a top end already to go with kibbklewhite ss valves a and cam chain as well as every other little gasket and oring and clip i need. with the cam and pipe should i run an 08 13.5:1 r piston? I've heard these are better. also im not sure which crank to use. will a 2mm stroker add much power? is OEM better than hotrods? I've heard hotrods are poorly balanced but that was on old posts and I've heard nothing recent. I'm mainly concerned about longevity and reliability. the bike won't be getting driven all that much but as my second bike i don't want to have to work on it all the time. its the classic "do it once and do it right". overall i would like a little bit more power but mainly more bottom end torque. it will be my bike for traveling with slower quads and maybe a couple big trips (>800km) and friends to drive. sorry for the long post but i can't find much recent info on this.
  24. Caleb Breaux

    Pissed at Honda

    So I've got 2015 crf250x. I did many of the ccc mods and now it runs like a champ. Starts on first kick/push and I love the suspension and feel. What I hate about the bike is how hard it is to work on. Specifically the carb. For anyone who doesn't own a 250x/450x the carb sits right behind a large portion of subframe and is nearly impossible to access. I have a after market fuel screw and I still can barely get to it with my hands. If you actually wan't to clean the carb you have to lift the whole sub frame to get it out. Now my throttle cable is seized up (probably from sand) and I am going to have to replace. I'm not mad that the cable seized, it happens, things go wrong grit gets in places its not supposed to be and parts wear out. However where my throttle cables attach to my carb is completely inaccessible. So I am going to have to lift the sub frame again! This is not that big a deal but the last time I tried to get the airbox boot back on the carb it took 5 hours and a shit ton of grease. Carb work is something that is common on all dirtbikes. Even just for maintenance. It should not be that difficult to access it. It seems like honda doesn't want owners to work on their bikes anymore. Don't even get me started on trying to find a current service manual (because the bikes don't come with them anymore). I looked at several buddies bikes because I was curious as to how they are layed out, and for the ktm, yamaha, and suzuki the throttle cable fix wouldn't take more than 30 minutes. But its going to be an all day process for me. I'm so pissed right now I'm thinking about selling my bike and switching makers because I feel like this is going to become a recurring problem. What do you guys think? Any honda guys out there gonna convince me otherwise?
  25. digitalzombie

    Clutch drag adjustment?

    I have a 2008 CRF250X, it is my first dirt bike. I feel like there is something wrong with either the clutch cable, its adjustments or the clutch pack/pressure plate. Here are the symptoms from different scenarios: 1) Bike is cold, it is in first gear, moving the bike forward or backward is extremely hard while the clutch lever is pulled in. Rear tire is trying to move the piston it feels like. Once I get it going it gets a bit easier to roll. 2) Bike is cold, it is in neutral, when I start the bike and let it run for a minute or two, get on the bike pull the clutch, hold the front brake and put the bike in first gear the bike instantly stalls while jerking forward. 3) Bike is cold, it is in first gear, I try to start the bike with the clutch pulled in, it jerks forward a bit but starts. Once the bike starts and oil is flowing around it does not jerk any more and bike can be almost freely pushed around while it is in first gear and clutch is in. So to me it feels like when the bike is cold and engine not running, no matter how much I pull the clutch, it does not fully disengage the drive train. Once the bike starts it looks like the clutch starts to work fine. Is this normal? Is it a worn or badly adjusted clutch cable? Is the clutch bad and needs service? Not enough oil in the tranny? Wrong oil in the tranny? (Shell Rotella non synthetic)
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