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Found 6 results

  1. Hi All, I have a 2005 CRF450X and I attempted to change the fork seals and fork oil this weekend for the first time. It didn't go well and I am trying to understand what happened. I have always taken the forks to a local mechanic to do the fork seals and oil, this was my first attempt at it. I ended up breaking off the threaded end of both dampers (left and right forks) while removing the adjuster bolt on the bottom of the forks. A picture of the damage is attached. I have a few questions for those that are familiar with this process. Any thoughts are appreciated. Is the damper rod supposed to spin freely (both clockwise and counter clockwise) in the damper? Damper rods on both the left and right dampers spin freely by hand now. I am not sure if I damaged them or if they are supposed to spin. In thinking about what happened it seems to me the push rod would normally spin so that you could unscrew the adjuster bolt from the bottom of the fork. Once the adjuster bolt is unscrewed you would compress the fork to push out the rod to have access to the lock nut to unscrew the adjuster bolt from the end of the damper push rod. If the adjuster nut was torqued to tightly to the lock nut could that cause this issue? Thanks for your thoughts.
  2. I was going to service my forks with new oil and new seals that I had laying around and went to soften the rebound screw like I always do and believe that I went a turn too far. it clicks but doesn’t stop. I’ve taken the inner tube out and used a flat head screw driver to turn the D shaped push rod and it will stop like the clicker is on it going clock wise with the-flathead but going counter cw it does not. Any advice on what happened? I know I need to replace the adjuster screw since it won’t stop on the soft setting but where the push rod sits in the oil chamber or piston type thing is that messed up? Thx in advance
  3. Not sure if this is in the right forum but, I am looking to purchase a Scotts steering Damper kit and wanted to know if or where I can get a Coupon Code to use on the Scotts Performance website. They do have a space for a code when you go to check out, but i cant find any codes!! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
  4. In an effort to redeem myself from dredging up an 11 year old thread yesterday I decided I would contribute some much sought after info to this forum. I am in the midst of a complete tear down and refresh of an '07 WR450. I started with the chassis, bearings, wheels, and suspension--and will work my way into the motor last. I am currently re-springing, sealing, and valving my fork, as the prior owner was much heavier and had it set up for him. All is smooth and easy until I get to removing the base valve (compression) to release the damper rod from the lower fork tube. In the past I had luck just shooting it with an impact and the assembly would be free. Not on this fork.... So I set about ordering the Motion Pro damper rod fork tool (Part # 08-0117) BUT that tool only works on 47 mm and under forks. The WR is 48 mm. And of course there is no chance of a dealer having the OEM Yamaha tool--or me paying the exorbitant amount for that piece of tooling. (OEM part #'s 90890-01494, YM-01494) Then it is off to the forums and Google to try and find some answers. I discover that many, many, bro's have asked about what tool to use, or a DIY trick such that they can remove the damper tube and base valve. Many suggest that having the fork leg fully assembled, with springs and all, then loading the upside down leg and shooting it with an impact driver will release the base valve from the damper tube. I definitely believe this and many report having success with that method, though it often requires an extra set of hands. I aint down with that....especially when it comes time to put it all back together and I am going to want the tool to assure that assembly is torqued to spec. So I set off to Home Depot with a fork lower, and my 2 year old. First to the plumbing aisles. First the kitchen and toilet stuff, no luck there. Then into the pipe aisle, 1-1/4 black, or galvanized pipe looks really close but the OD is too big. Time to get creative. Think about what other applications around the house use tubing, or pipe?.....preferably thin walled. Immediately I head to the closet and storage/shelving aisle....thinking clothes hanger rod. I take the 72" piece of decorative pipe and stick it into the fork leg in my cart, while the 2 year old amuses himself with my vernier caliper. Booyah, lets take this to the register, search over. I am very confident from eye-balling it that I can make the tool from this piece of closet hardware! I take the 72" piece and use a pipe cutter to chop off a 12" section from the end without the label sticker or barcode. (shit, I may just return it doubting the clerk is gonna measure) From that piece I make a trace of the OD of the 1-5/16 closet rod circle end. Then I divide the tracing up into equal parts by drawing a tic-tac-toe, or hashtag #### across it. Mark off 4 of the "boxes" on the end with black marker, and use a hacksaw and cut off wheel to remove all BUT the marked pieces. Leaving me with 4 prongs that resemble a "castle". Clean it all up with some filing, and grinding. Then I bored a 3/8" hole through the non-castle end to pass a piece of rod through to use as my handle. I fish the homemade tool around for a second, and it locks right into place! Then while holding the tool I shoot the base valve, 14 mm allen, with a cordless impact and it comes right out. I can't say for sure...but I do not think it was very tight and a "regular" hex wrench or allen socket would work just fine. Also I decided to take some measurements of the damper tube and its tooling receptacle should anyone ever want them. The outside diameter of the tube that protrudes above the flange for the removal tool is ~28 mm The 4 slots that the teeth of the castle tool will fit into are about ~15 mm The distance between the tool slots, when measured on center of 2 parallel holes is ~30 mm The inside diameter of the lower fork leg is ~46 mm It took me 45 minutes in the Depot to look, 20 minutes to fabricate the tool, and the material cost about $20. I have enough left over closet rod to probably make 7 more of these things! If I don't return the remaining 60" to the store...PM me with your address and like $6.10 shipping and I'll cut you off a piece! LOL I really hope this helps many people, and let me say...I can't believe how easy and well it worked! Check out the pics for clarity. You're welcome...
  5. The oem bushings were tight and hard to take off. I took them off to replace them with new pivot works bushings so I carefully expanded the bushing and got it on easy without stretching it at all and now the bushing is not even as tight. Do these need to be tight on there? I put it on the only way it could go and it seems like the gap in the bushing got bigger.
  6. Hey Everyone! We know that there may be some of you that want to know more about how our stabilizers work, well here is a quick look inside the adjustments of our base model System 3. I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have. Would love to hear your feedback or ideas on improvements that could be made to the stabilizers.
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