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Found 112 results

  1. Hey legends, So after successfully rebuilding my 2003 WR450F (Bottom and top end) with an 06 crank and flywheel upgrade as well as a 480CC Athena big bore...Everything was going well... On my 5th or 6th ride, the motor was well worn in and everything was running strong...I was out riding with mates when I noticed 5th gear start jumping in and out...It got worse and worse till the point where I did not use 5th gear anymore...At first i thought it might be the clutch but its only in 5th gear it does it .. :/ I did a little research and some people think ive damaged something inside the gearbox... Can someone help me out on exactly what I need to do to get this fixed? I really don't want to have to disassemble the engine again :'( Please help Thanks Ben @grayracer513 Can you help at all??
  2. Hello every one, I just bought a vor dirt bike from someone for 250 lol with no paperwork or anything of any kind, not sure what year or model all I know is it's a vor bike, please help I would like to find out everything I can about it and fix it up and I saw that the is a little lever by the clutch lever not sure what that is and I am having trouble starting it, please help me thank you in advance, if you could email me at cackaffen89@gmail.com that would be much better again thank you
  3. This is my fun, last week with the kawasaki KX250 date 1993, it is quite older, the only thing new is the exhaust FMF full, newly replaced. My team KTM Freeride 250 2015, Honda CRF 250 2003, CR250 2005. Of course I would love to buy a newer dirtbike, I love the Kawasaki brand, my goal is the KX250 date 2017. Please help me by sharing, like, and subribe youtube channel. Hope I will soon reach. My videos: My kx250 appears on the first video. MX Fails Complation - KX 250 date 1993
  4. Time Left: 26 days and 5 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    1991 DR250S Dual Sport STREET LEGAL, with only 2,263 original miles. This bike is extremely clean and very well maintained. Clean title. Bike is all stock except for the grips, tires, and mini rear turn signals. Has a Cheng shing rear 4.00" knobby, and a Shinko 244 front tire, under 1,000 miles on it. Everything on the bike works perfect. The pictures do not do this bike any justice, must see in person. Comes with everything in picture plus: -passenger pegs -the license plate bracket plastic (currently removed for a less bulky look, as seen in pics) -a cheng shin front knobby (the matching rear is currently on the bike) -a 4.60x18 Shinko 244 dual sport rear tire (brand new, 0 miles, matching front is currently on bike) -spare turn signals, new in box -original owners manual Located just outside Schenectady NY. Only selling because I'm looking to pick up a '01 or newer rm250, which would be the only trade. Price is firm. No spammers, no tire kickers. SOLD AS IS. local pickup only, if you really want the bike shipped, that is for you to set up and pay for.

    $2,000.00

  5. Hi all, Recently noticed a snapped bolt on the left hand side of my motor. I have attached photos. I believe its an engine casing bolt, however i'm unsure. I want to remove it and replace it however have thought about leaving it as nothing is leaking. What are your thoughts? Thanks
  6. Hey, I've had my 01 cr125 (picture one) for sale on kjiji for a while now...No serious inquiries until someone messages me pictures of a 01 yz450f (picture two) that he's willing to trade (evenly) for mine. He says the engine was fully rebuilt about 15 hours ago. Not sure if this is a good deal? Any known problems with the 450? It looks like its in decent shape? Thanks in advance.
  7. Is the dr250 any good of a street legal bike for cruisin down the back roads or around little towns? Around 60mph needed max. Any problems I should be aware of?
  8. My Grandson wants to learn to ride a dirtbike. He is 15 and never showed much interest til now. Mass. has an online,then a classroom course you have to take. Do you have to bring atv or dirtbike to 2nd part of training? FAQ's in info section mention skills test,and dont know what is involved. He is a newbie and I can teach him to ride,but no idea what the Ma. liberals have decided to include in training course,except to make money again,and not give us any riding areas for our taxes.
  9. With Ktm's new TPI in their 2 stroke, I was curious if it was safe to engine brake on them. I would think that they would still be getting oil without the throttle, so engine braking may not hurt it. TPI is really starting to make me consider a KTM or Husky bike.
  10. Hey Everyone, I just wanted to give everyone an update on how the Alta Redshift MX did at the RMEC Hard Rock Enduro in Colorado. Don was able to get a 2nd place finish (would have been first if not for a flat rear tire) in the A 50 + class and 17th overall. The bike was absolutely amazing on the technical rocky terrain. Race Info: 6 laps that averaged 23 minutes per lap a little over 2 hours of actual racing time Don was able to sneak in about 35-40 minutes of charging total using a 220v generator. Raced the entire race in Map 1 on the Alta The Alta does require a little more strategy for Longer format Enduro racing, but it is very competitive against gas bikes! Here is the link to the YouTube video of the race from Don's helmet cam.
  11. Hey guys, Background: I was riding my dirt bike and it was running great. I went to pull in my clutch, and it took about half of a pull for it to even engage. I realized the issue and kept riding, but about one minute later i had lost my clutch completely. it was all slack, as if there wasn't even a cable connected. if i came to a stop in first gear with my clutch lever all the way in against my handlebar, it would stall out as if i wasn't holding the lever at all. A stretched/frayed cable was my first thought, but upon digging deeper into the problem i am rather certain it is nothing lever/cable related. First i drained my trans oil, no metal chucks, shards, nothing came out. Then I took off my flywheel cover, and removed the necessary components to remove my Clutch Lifter Lever. Surely i thought i was going to find that the pin had broken where it pushes on the Lifter Rod, but that was not the case either. I removed the clutch cover, and nothing was abnormal. I have the correct amount of steel/fiber plates in the correct order, none are cracked. None of the bolts/springs were loose on the Pressure Plate, and neither was the lock nut holding on the clutch basket (which also has the lock washer and thrust washer trapped behind it). The Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter seem to be in correct condition. My buddy was even generous to let me tear apart his same exact bike and compare the Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter, which checked out to be the same, except his clutch works great while mine doesn't. I did not check his Lifter Lever because of the hassle it is to take that off and set the timing again after etc. I have had multiple people check that all of the components were in there, and checked with my manual at least a dozen times. Everything is there. There are five pictures below, the first two are pictures of my Lifter Lever. I have ordered a used one of these in hopes that it could somehow solve the issue, even though nothing seems to be wrong. Our best guess is the pin that comes in contact with the Lifter Rod spun, but it is not loose by any means and does show any visual signs of that happening. The third picture shows the distance between the Clutch Lifter and the surface of the Pressure Plate which i measured with my calipers and is .150" The fourth photo shows how far I need to lift my lifter lever up in order to remove the slop and start to disengage the clutch. I have almost no travel, because the Lifter Lever comes in contact with the casing (about 1/8 inch gap between the two in picture). In picture five, this is where the Clutch Lifter should be, which is .040" from surface to surface. To my understanding, there is .110" of slop between all of these components, but everything seems in the right condition, and no signs of broken pieces. The fifth picture is how the manual and my buddies bike shows it to be, and how i believe mine should be. Does the orientation of the pin on the clutch lifter lever look correct? it seemed to compared to the pictures i googled. I am completely stumped. Has anyone had similar issues? Please let me know if you need better clarification, its a very hard problem to describe over a post. Thanks in advance. Austin
  12. Hey guys, I know the sign of a bad bearing in your wheel is if it kinda has any play if I'm correct? I replaced my back wheel bearings and didn't worry about the front ones. I know this may just be a suspension problem but when I land from a wheelie or jump it is really stiff. Way more stiff then I've ever felt. It just feels like the wheel is stiff. Any ideas? I've already messed with tire pressure.
  13. CHECK THIS VID OUT!!!!! You Will NOT be disappointed! Kid rips. Get stoked to get out and ride...RIGHT NOW!
  14. Hey Thumpers, I took the Carby off to replace the AP diaphragm and the Main Jet....Reassembled the Carby to the engine , attempted to kick the bike but the lever is stuck in the upright position and won't kick downwards. I took the right side case off on the Clutch side and noticed two teeth missing from the Primary gear and a couple from the Idler gear. Needless to say i found two of the teeth belonging to the Primary gear, proceeded to take the left casing off on the Stator side and noticed some metal particles pasted on the Pickup magnet. I cleaned that off , found no foreign objects on the Stator side, reconnected the kickstart lever on the lever shaft just to see if it freed up, by my surprise i was able to kick and turn over the engine like it should....BTW the spark plug was removed before to ease the compression. After all of that i felt a bit relieved and placed the left and right side casings back on . Refitted the Gas tank, kicked her and she started right up. Took her around the gap and CLAX! that bike cuts out and the kick start lever is stuck again. I was able to put the bike in neutral and walked her home , i can shift all through the gears like normal. Click the link below to view the video. Stuck Kick Lever Hope you guys can shed some light on where to look.
  15. I recently broke my kill switch on my Honda Crf50 Pitbike. A replacement is on it's way, and I'd rather fix it myself than pay $48.00 of labor... (rip off). Does anyone know how to properly connect the new kill switch? Is the connecting piece behind the front number plate, or do I have to take off the gas tank and seat to wire to the CDI? Thanks in advance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ **(I was going to upload some pictures so you know what I'm working with, but I can't seem to download the pictures. I'll upload them if I can figure it out.)**
  16. Today I want to share some pointers on preparing new or re-plated cylinders that will help ensure your engines run stronger and last longer. Plus, I've got an update on the two-stroke book I've been working on that I'd like to share. Let's get started! A Universal Concern First, both new and re-plated cylinders must be cleaned prior to assembling. Normally the cylinders will arrive looking clean, but looks can be deceiving. I have no doubt that the factories and re-plating services clean the cylinders as part of their processes, but I highly recommend cleaning the bores a final time prior to use. Shown below is a new Yamaha cylinder that I extracted quite a bit of honing grit out of. If left in place, the honing grit will ensure that the piston rings will wear out faster than they need to, so be sure to take the time to properly clean new cylinders prior to assembly. What’s the best way to clean the cylinder bore? Start by using warm soapy water and a brush to clean the cylinder. Take your time and be thorough. After the majority of the honing grit has been removed switch to automatic transmission fluid and a lint free rag for one final cleaning. As a test to check cleanliness, rub a cotton swab against the cylinder bore. If the swab picks up any debris and changes color, your cleaning duties are not over. The swab should be able to be rubbed against the bore and remain perfectly clean. Two-Stroke Port Dressing For two-stroke owners, the second item I want to bring to your attention is port dressing. Port dressing is a term used to describe the process of deburring/breaking the edge at the intersection of the cylinder plating and the ports in the cylinder. During the plating process, plating usually builds up excessively at the edge of the port and must be removed after honing. Proper removal is critical to ensure acceptable piston ring life. Manufacturers and plating services will break the edge in different ways and to different magnitudes, which ends up being a whole other topic. The important thing is to ensure that any new or re-plated cylinder you use shows visible signs that the port edges have been dressed. A dressed port edge will be easy to spot because it will feature a different surface finish than the cross-hatch created from honing. This is easily visible in the image shown above. Many port dressing operations are done manually so some irregularity in the geometry will usually be present. If there is no visible edge break on the port edges, I would be highly suspicious and contact the service that plated the cylinder or sold the cylinder and confirm with them if a step was missed. Typically a chamfer or radius in the .020 - .040” (0.5 - 1mm) range is used. Two-Stroke Power Valves Lastly, it is possible that some of the power valve components, such as blades or drums, will not fit correctly on cylinders that have been replated. This is because the plating can occasionally build up in the slots or bores where the power valve parts reside. Prior to final assembly, be sure to check the function of the power valve blade and/or drums to ensure they move freely in their respective locations within the cylinder. If plating has built up in a power valve slot or bore, it will need to be carefully removed. To do this, appropriately sized burs for die grinders or Dremel tools can be used. If one is not careful, irreversible damage to the slot or bore can result. When performing this work proceed cautiously or leave it to a seasoned professional. Burs for the job can be difficult to track down in stores, but are readily available online from places like McMaster-Carr. When purchasing burs, be sure to pick up a few variants, such as rounded and square edged, designed for removing hard materials. The Two-Stroke Book From February to March we photographed the entire book. From April onward we have been formatting and proofreading. Needless to say, we are in the final stretch! If you want to stay updated on the moment the Two-Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook is ready for pre-order, sign up at the link below. We can't wait to get this book out the door and into your garage. Sign Up for Updates on the Two-Stroke Book Thanks for reading and have a great rest of your week! -Paul
  17. So, i just bought my cr125 a couple weeks ago, and the bolts that go from the side panels to the seat are stripped. Everytime i try to remove it with a socket wrench, it just gets off, even with force added. The top of the bolt is stripped. I've tried cresent wrenches to fix it, and they just don't fit. I want to be able to remove my seat so I can get to the air filter to clean it, so far not going so good. Let me know what i can do to get the stripped bolts off!
  18. Here is the official KTM press release for the KTM Freeride E-XC! MURRIETA, Calif. – As the global high-performance electric motorcycle market continues to grow, KTM is pleased to announce the launch of a READY TO RACE pilot program in North America involving the KTM FREERIDE E-XC, an electric version of the already-familiar KTM FREERIDE 250R motorcycle. Through this pilot program, the KTM FREERIDE E-XC is available in limited quantities and sold exclusively through select authorized KTM dealers in the U.S. Each of the 11 select dealerships have been certified through KTM’s high voltage technical training in order to service this new technology. Tom Etherington, VP of Sales, KTM North America, Inc.: “KTM has created this pilot program as a way to better understand the level of consumer interest in electric motorcycles, which will assist us in future planning when considering serial production of electric motorcycles in the coming years. The exciting part for consumers is that through this pilot program, the FREERIDE E-XC is available for a price that is substantially less than these models would sell for outside of this program.” The MSRP for the 2017 FREERIDE E-XC is $8,299 and the motorcycles are arriving now in limited quantities through the following select authorized KTM dealers: Moto City KTM in Avondale, Ariz. 3 Bros KTM of Orange County in Costa Mesa, Calif. CJ KTM of Murrieta in Murrieta, Calif. KTM of Roseville in Roseville, Calif. Malcolm Smith Motorsports in Riverside, Calif. Elite Motorsports KTM in Loveland, Colo. Larsons Cycle in Cambridge, Minn. Edelman’s KTM in Troy, N.Y. Solid Performance KTM in Downingtown, Penn. Adventure Powersports KTM in McKinney, Texas KTM of North Texas in Arlington, Texas KTM North America, Inc. is proud to venture into the zero-emission vehicle world with a purpose built motorcycle that could open the door to new and exciting riding areas and applications in the future. For more information on KTM’s dealer network, please visit www.ktm.com. We are taking pre-orders on these models with an estimated delivery of early to mid-August. If you would like to reserve one or have any questions please feel free to contact me: Scott Elite Motorsports 970-461-1022 scott@elitektm.com
  19. I was wondering what the deal is with the OFTR, As I am aware, you dont need a OFTR membership to ride at gannaraska but you do at norththumberland. I have been trying to do things legally, I have insurance, green plate etc... but it seems everytime I find somewhere to ride there is something else you need. So my question is, Do you need and OFTR membership to ride Norththumberland trails and what is the OFTR? Do they check for memberships on the trails?
  20. Ok, so ive got a 98 yz80, it runs amazing. Ill fire it up and it starts first kick. Idles great. Ill ride it, and its pretty good in the low end. But sometimes, if i open the throttle it will bog, it slows me down, could it be a rich bog, or a air bog? then ill just hold clutch in, rev it back up and itll be fine. Its not too big of an issue, but it sure is annoying. Im running 50:1, do i need to be running more oil, or could it do with something else?
  21. Time Left: 5 days and 15 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    2006 KTM 525 XC New Tires. Posting this for a friend. He says he is getting older and the bike is too fast for him. It has an auxiliary oil cooler installed that was $400 brand new. Bike must be sold soon because it is taking up space in the shop so it must go!! Call if you have any questions or would like to set up a meeting to view the bike at the shop. I have a Wyoming number but I am not a scammer so please do not flag my posting. This is a real ad. Thanks!

    $3,500.00

  22. I just had a few questions related to the proper way to trailer your bikes, I will be trailering 2 bikes a yz250fx and a ttr125l, I first want to know if it really matters that one bike is alot heavier than the other since they will be side by side in the trailer. Next I have 2 wheel chocks and I was wondering if I should have another tie down point in between them so the straps are not pulling more to one side, If that is the case is it okay to just bolt it onto the wood floor? or would that not be strong enough? Thanks,
  23. Hello, I was wondering what is the legality of dirt biking at old Keele landfill site. It seems like it is a perfect area for that, and I have seen groups of riders using it... I also heard stories that sometimes authorities wait for riders at the gate. Has anyone done it and is it worth it?
  24. Hey All! Reposting my first post from touring/adventure touring - thought this forum would see more activity. Here it is: 7/18/17 Hello Thumper Talk Community! This is my first post here, just created my account a few minutes ago. I apologize if I violate any type of forum rules or formatting, but I'm sure I'll learn as I go. To begin with: I've been riding dirtbikes since I was 8. I am currently a 19 year old University student in upstate NY, and I am riding a 2006 Honda XR650L that I bought myself when I turned 16. I've attached pictures of it (taken today, as I wrote this post) to illustrate the condition it is in, what it looks like, etc. While I have been riding for an extremely long time, and consider myself a safe and competent rider, I have a very limited mechanical knowledge of motorcycles. My dad introduced me to bikes and taught me to ride, but my riding experience over the years has been on my own, and my mechanical knowledge is self-taught and basic maintenance of my bike at best - nothing fancy whatsoever. He and I don't really speak anymore, and therefore I don't have any type of guidance or reference points when it comes to bike mechanics (or mechanics of any kind, for that matter). Nevertheless, I am very interested in modifying and improving my bike and possibly beginning a project to convert it into a café racer or scrambler-esque bike. I rarely go off-road anymore and use my XR as a daily driver, but I find the traction of off-road tires to be favorable and have never had street tires. Therefore I'm debating whether or not to keep my off-road tires (or get different ones), making the bike more of a scrambler - or to use street tires making it more of a café racer. If I'm using terminology wrong and have no idea what the f**k I'm talking about, then please always feel free to correct me. I am using Daniel Peter's custom XR650L café racer, and Ready Moto's brat/cafe racer as inspiration. I think both are beautiful bikes/rebuilds, and want something very similar as my final product. However, I think Daniel Peter's bike is tricked out in a very expensive (and unnecessary to me) way (i.e. antelope seat, c'mon dude). I also want to preserve my passenger seat and pegs, if possible. I have absolutely no idea where to start, and have no current access to welding or fabrication machines of any kind. I'm asking for a full walkthrough and as much help as you all are willing to give me. Because I'm in school, I have a very limited budget. Basically, I'm willing to do my short term modifications and enhancements, and probably put the conversion project on hold until the spring. This is particularly dependent upon the advice I get. I don't need the bike as much in the fall, because I live on my college campus, but it's nice to have around in working condition (I know the project would require pulling it all apart and not riding for a while). So if any part I need for this is expensive but necessary, I will save up for it and make it happen. If there are cheaper, reasonable alternatives to achieve the same goal, then I will do that. I'd appreciate all advice along those lines. I just replaced my battery two weeks ago, and am going to attempt to replace the brake pads (a simple job, I know, but with luck/mechanical ability like mine, it can be quite daunting!) The chain is new, the frame has been reinforced at certain points, but everything else is stock! What I Want Out of This Bike (Short Term) 1. I'd like to put the battery underneath the seat - what are the benefits/disadvantages of this? To my knowledge it'll just slim the profile of the bike when I take off side paneling and prevent the battery from getting wet or as damaged in a drop. 2. I want to clean it up, particularly the rusted parts, and possibly repaint/replace them to make sure the bike looks better. (Need guidance for this, as I'm unsure how to remove rust/how to go about repainting parts - why I posted pics, so hopefully this community can identify where my "problem areas" are on this bike). 3. Learn how to properly winterize and maintain bike. Currently I check oil regularly, fill it with premium gas, lube the chain once or a week or more, and wash it (probably not enough) and spray WD-40 on various pieces. If I'm an incompetent fool, tell me. 4. Replace footpegs, throttle, handgrips. 5. If feasible with my current bike, put in a circular (brighter) headlight instead of the stock square one. Am willing to get rid of red plastic housing, or find an alternative. What I Want Out of This Bike (Long Term) 1. A full café-racer type conversion, styled similar to what I linked above. My dream "bought brand new" bike currently is a Triumph Bonneville converted to a scrambler (provided a pic) to let y'all know what I'm interested in, aesthetically. 2. Switch out stock carb (40mm) with a 41mm Keihin FCR-MX flat slide. I've been doing lots of reading, and it looks like this will drastically improve bike performance and throttle response in many ways, not limited to AFR and starting. I know nothing about AFR...or carbs. 3. Repaint the sucker! I've read online various opinions, the main camps seem to be either (a) don't do it yourself, have a professional do it or (b) you can do it yourself very carefully. Sorry for the giant wall of text, I appreciate those who have read this far. Please ask any questions, give comments, critiques, advice, anything! I look forward to hearing what the TT Community has to say. Cheers! John UPDATE 07/22/17 I replaced both front and rear brake pads because I had irresponsibly been using very worn-down ones, and the friction subsequently wore down my rotors. Not bad enough to replace rotors (thank goodness, I'm too cheap for that right now), but still negligent on my part. Started taking the most rusted bolts out and WD40+steel wool scrubbing them, then putting grease on. I don't have any never-seize, but I'll get some at some point. For now, grease should suffice. Going to wash the bike soon, scrub everything down and then get to polishing up....everything!