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Found 13 results

  1. Would Low disc brake fluid, in itself, cause a front disc brake to grab and lock up? I have a 96 DR350 and when I bought it the guy told me that the front brake fluid was low, but I kept forgetting to buy some (Dot-4). I've been riding the bike for almost 2 months and it's been doing great, no complaints. But last time I rode it I did notice that the front brake wasn't as good as it normally was. Well I took it for a ride today and got about a quarter mile down the road at about 35mph and started to notice a slight surging grab on the bike, couldn't figure out why so I slowed down to pull into a driveway and as soon as I hit gravel it locked up and I tucked it and tipped over (I can't remember for sure, but I might have tried to use a little front brake as I pulled in). the front brake lever felt tight and wouldn't pull and the brake stayed locked on the wheel (not totally locked up but mostly) for just a minute or so and the disc felt slightly warm but not hot by any means. after a couple minutes it opened back up and the bike would roll freely. So I rode back home slowly at about 5-10mph, stopping about 4 times and resting a minute or two so it would not get hot, I checked the disc every time I stopped and it barely felt a little warm to the touch but not hot and not even very warm, just slightly warm. The fluid level looks empty through the looking glass and after I got home the bike rolls free and fine. I suspect the low brake fluid caused the brakes to grab because it didn't have enough fluid in the system to keep them open. Does this sound like a reasonable scenario for the brake grabbing and locking up?...Low fluid alone as the culprit? Sounds probable to me I was just looking for input. I didn't know that would happen just because of low fluid, I thought the brakes just wouldn't work if the fluid got too low. But it seems that the fluid not only compress's the brakes but also keeps them open when you let off the lever.. is that correct? I've owned many bikes but have never had any brake problems before with any of them and never even had low fluid in any of them before best I can recall. Will low fluid cause this on it's own? the brake pads are fairly new (2 months old with daily use). I just took the wheel off last week and changed the tire and while the rim was bare I put it on a rim jig and checked the rim for trueness, warping and concentricity as well as checked the disc. Everything checked out fine last week. Low fluid was the only issue I could find with the bike, won't be able to purchase any Dot-4 until tomorrow. I believe it would be sufficient to drain, flush, fill and bleed the brake and it should be fine after that best I can tell. Thanks for any 2nd opinions going on the info I've given.
  2. Sanchez

    St Johnsville, NY

    Going to be camping in St Johnsville, NY next weekend at Crystal Grove and dragging the bike up with me from NJ... I'll be out exploring on Sunday, 6/4. Any locals wanna show me some trails?? or if anyone has recommendations on where I should ride, please let me know. Thx!
  3. mud_alaska

    93' dr350 idle issue's

    Hi all from Alaska and thank you for an awesome site!! I'm a new member but a long time lurker. I have a 1993 dr350 dirt model that I'm working on fixing sence I wrecked it as a kid. The issue I'm having is the carb sence I rebuilt it I can't get the bike to idle after warmed. I'm looking for any advice you all have. I also took the bike for a ride tonight very short but in gear I can't rev the bike at all and it stumbles but in nutral it revs fine. The idle is very high and I can't get it down. Thanks in advance mud.
  4. SmashingTrees

    DR350 WON'T START NEED HELP PALEEZE

    I have had this Dr350 for a few months wasn't running cleaned the carb it was running for a few days then it stopped. I need help!!!
  5. I recently sold my 1993 DR350S dual sport to my not-so mechanically inclined newbie friend rider. Bike slowly consumes a bit of oil and hadn't had a change in a while, he didn't think to check and ran it out of oil til it died. Hauled the bike home to find out it had a few shot glasses of oil in the entire case. The camshaft ground into its groove in the head, making sharp metal edges and shavings that were chipping off in my fingers. Cams were scored and completely deformed. Piston and cylinder looked okay, albeit to my somewhat untrained eye. Clutch looked fine and he was able to downshift and coast to a stop so I assume the trans is acceptable at least, maybe it survived because they had oil in the bottom and lasted longer than the top...? Since wherever the camshaft was sitting was basically shredded, is it safe to assume it'll need new a new head and cover, and obviously a camshaft? is there any chance a shop could file down the damage as it seems the shaft left behind most of it's metal and "welded" it to the grooves? If not, as this seems highly unlikely, we were thinking of selling the frame and the engine bottom end/transmission (as untested/partially functional?) separately and trashing the top. Any advice on what action is most cost-effective?
  6. Samchez Gunteras

    DR350 Rear Suspension Rebuild Possible?

    I have a 92 DR350s and the head seal is leaking on it, anyone know of any rebuild kits available for this model? Or does anyone know what other model years would be compatible to bolt onto this bike?
  7. Dr.dualsport

    Bought a gem of a Dr350

    Hello TT! First post on this forum, only because someone has already answered every single question I've had in the past year. Seriously you guys F'n rock! Very anxious for the snow to melt so I figured why not share my Dr with the world in the meantime. I wanted to pick up a thumper last August to have a dualsport to take to class and mess around trails when I was up at school. Nothing nice, just something dependable with mostly original hardware for under 2k (broke college kid budget) did my research, it had to be a Dr. So I trekked from southern NH up to Maine to look at a '99 Dr350se with 14K on the OD... I know 14K is a lot, but the pictures looked great. The guy selling it, who was only the 2nd owner, said it had just about no rust and he had only done 1000 mi on her in the 2 years he had it (which was actually true I have the title) The bike looked perfect when I got there other than that blowby on the tail. But for a '99 with high miles I figured she would at least need rings and gaskets soon. Wicked cool guy no BS, he never touched a thing on the bike besides battery and registration stickers, the thing just ran. He insisted I take it for a test ride before I even consider making an offer so took a little cruise up the dirt road and left my girlfriend to lay down a little pre-negotiation charm on him the wife. By the time I left wifey was bringing me to the shed to grab all the free spare tires and wheels the four of us could carry, and they were all in usable condition. Next hands me 3 soft binders, one was a general maintenance manual, one a model year specific manual, and one stacked full of documents, receipts, title and handwritten parts lists ended up taking everything home for $1200, $200 lower than the asking price just because he thought I was a good guy. (Total wheels and tires I got for free was a complete front and rear set each with 50/50 on/off tires mounted, as well as 2 rear on/off tires and 1 spare front mx tire) But wait there's more... Of course I'm dying to see what receipts are there so lets have a look... Everything with a receipt was dated from 2008-2013 (could be worse right?) we've got: Both sprockets (stock gearing) Chain Discs & pads Fork boots Front fork seals Clutch Clutch cable Now I start getting into the nitty gritty... no receipts or dates but after doing a little sleuthing: DynoJet stage 2 or 3 kit (found the 'in box' installation instructions, plus the jet sizes are scribbled down on that paper i mentioned) 1 1/2" exhaust mod (found email printouts so I go check the bike, sure enough 1 1/2") and for the Holy Grail... Yes that's right ALL of the emails back and forth regarding shipment for the 440 big bore and sleeve May I add, when that guy said no rust he wasn't joking. There's a flake or two on the exhaust but everywhere else is paint. Every nut bolt and connector on the Dr440 is completely stock, right down to the alien antenna mirrors. The bike obviously couldn't have been ridden that hard, I broke those mirrors off that first week... Airbox has the big ol holes of course. It has a K&N reusable air filter pretty sure that is not stock correct? It had motard tires when i first got it (in that pic by the river) but I am taking this spring to gear her a little more for more dirt. I just wrestled a brand new DOT track tire onto the main rim and I have that mx tire mounted on a spare rim sitting on deck. It'd be awesome to get some input from you guys, maybe do's and don'ts on modifications I can make from here? Also let me know what you think of my plans, I'm open to all (most) input. Right now my grocery list is as follows: -1 in the front (currently sits at 15/44) FMF pipe (what's the best option for Dr? is there a full FMF system for a '99 Dr or just slip ons?) DynoJet Stage 3 (if I don't have it already, how would I go about checking the jet size?) RaceTech rear shock spring ( 7.2 kg/mm or 7.6 kg/mm constant rate? suggestions?) POSSIBLY swap for RM fork or just revalve? (is it still worth doing rear and not front?) Thanks a bunch guys, I'm dying to hearing what you think
  8. Anyone ever had there signal lights stay solid? They are solid on the front and back, is this mean my signal relay is gone? If so, anyone know where this relat is located on the bike?
  9. I own dual sports because of the convenience of riding to the trails. Because I live in California I own a Suzuki DRZ 400 and DR 350 because they are the cheapest options in this dual sport restrictive state. I want to buy a beta 390 rr simply because I would like a lighter more peppy bike, however, I find it difficult to justify the 10 grand. The reason is not just because 10 grand is a lot of money, but two of the guys I often ride with own KTM 500 exc. We never race the track but often ride mountain fire trails and narrow trails with occasional steep climbs. My bikes with the typical carb and exhaust mods will go everywhere their bikes go and just as fast, and sometimes they can keep up with me. When I ride the KTM's I find the vibration of the engine and stock suspension bouncing me around wares me out as fast as throwing around the weight of the DR's. Because the KTM's have so much power I ride them with the throttle one quarter to half open on the dirt trails, anything more will throw you off the trail, for the DR's, half to wide open brings the same thrill. Often I am more than happy to switch back to my old DR's after putting miles on the KTM's. Is something wrong with me to not enjoy modern technology like others do, or do I just need to spend more time on a lighter more powerful bike to really learn to appreciate what they offer. I want the Beta, I'm just not sure if its worth it. Has anyone with similar experience resolved this?
  10. Anyone ever had there signal lights stay solid? They are solid on the front and back, is this mean my signal relay is gone? If so, anyone know where this relat is located on the bike?
  11. TomballD

    DR350 Carb Part Identification

    So when rebuilding my carb on my 99 DR350SE I realized I have a problem. The metal tubing that spans top to bottom on the right hand side of the carb is broken at the top threaded connection. First of all, what does this do? I assume its part of the pilot circuit but cant really find a good schematic or free service manual. Secondly, does anyone know where I can source this part? It's not in any of the rebuild kits, nor is available through BikeBandit or the likes. Any ideas? I have attached a picture that shows the part in question. Thanks!
  12. Hi, Background: I recently acquired a 1993 dr350s and I cannot fix a rich condition; I am about to purchase a TM33 pumper carb off of eBay but I hate when I am not able to figure something out. Hopefully someone here is able to give some insight! Tried: The bike is 100% stock. I have replaced the vacuum petcock with a standard one, and replaced every jet and rubber piece float and needle with OEM Suzuki pieces, triple checked float height, the idle, main jet, and choke valve and seat surfaces appear to all be in perfect condition, etc. Symptoms: With the bike fully warm and choke off, the bike idles highest with the idle mixture screw all the way lean and dies if any choke is applied. It also smells rich, does not hot start, spits black soot, and pops on deceleration, low power, etc. The only unusual thing is where the idle mixture screw pulls fuel from there are three little pinholes drilled straight through into the throat of the carb. They do not look OEM, and I tried to epoxy them shut but I think I rushed it and the gas ate my JB weld... are these factory or did someone try to correct an old vacuum leak with this? Thank you!
  13. marc.h

    98 DR 350 model confusion

    Hi, this is my first post on this forum and many thanks to everyone who has contributed in the past. So much info on here! i just purchased my first dirt bike, a 98 DR350. After having it for a few days it cut out on me and upon inspection i found it had no spark. To help me nut out the problem I downloaded a suzuki service manual as well as the online cyclopedia manual and as many other wiring diagrams as i could find but none of them seem to match the configuration of my bike. The compliance plate just says DR350 with no S or SE It is a kickstart only model with no battery. There is a headlight and front and rear blinkers and horn and has previously been registered in NSW Australia The stator has a 3 wire generator feeding the regulator/rectifier, and 2 pickup coils (both of which measure over 5MegOhms so i guess they are stuffed and causing my starting problem) It has a key and an analogue speedo but no tacho. The CDI has 11 wires running to it, including a mysterious green/red stripe which isn't in any of the numerous wiring diagrams I've found. On another note, when i drained the oil to remove the stator it came out looking like a nice frothy caramel latte so theres another issue to sort out. The petcock doesn't seem to leak so i assume the PO left it on at some point and fuel has come in through the carb… whats the best way to flush the contaminated oil out? If anyone could shed some light on what model i have it would be great (and the contaminated oil issue too) I'm assuming at the moment that its an australian specific variant or a dirt only version modded to be road registered Cheers
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