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Found 5 results

  1. Hi, Background: I recently acquired a 1993 dr350s and I cannot fix a rich condition; I am about to purchase a TM33 pumper carb off of eBay but I hate when I am not able to figure something out. Hopefully someone here is able to give some insight! Tried: The bike is 100% stock. I have replaced the vacuum petcock with a standard one, and replaced every jet and rubber piece float and needle with OEM Suzuki pieces, triple checked float height, the idle, main jet, and choke valve and seat surfaces appear to all be in perfect condition, etc. Symptoms: With the bike fully warm and choke off, the bike idles highest with the idle mixture screw all the way lean and dies if any choke is applied. It also smells rich, does not hot start, spits black soot, and pops on deceleration, low power, etc. The only unusual thing is where the idle mixture screw pulls fuel from there are three little pinholes drilled straight through into the throat of the carb. They do not look OEM, and I tried to epoxy them shut but I think I rushed it and the gas ate my JB weld... are these factory or did someone try to correct an old vacuum leak with this? Thank you!
  2. Sup fellas, Made my first bike clip, rippin thru the woods at last light. Give a like and subscribe if u wanna see more short adventure highlights like this. Suggestions are welcome. -Zamboni
  3. Hi All, After searching and digging up info on this site for a while now, it's finally time to ask a question. First, I want to thank everyone for all the information I've found on here. It's been a huge help in bringing the DR back to life. As the title says, I have 1994 Suzuki DR350SE (electric start) that is having some starting troubles. It's actually my roommate's bike and it's been sitting for at least a year. He agreed to pay for all the parts and to let me ride it if I got it working (he's gone every summer and fall), so I read through the FSM and started with the basics. First thing I did was replace the battery and luckily it fired right up. After that, I put fresh fuel in the tank, swapped out the old cracked fuel lines for new ones, Adjusted the chain tension, changed the spark plug, changed the oil / oil filter, cleaned the bike up, and went out for a ride. It ran great accept for a lot of popping on deceleration when in gear, but after I got the bike good and hot and shut it off, it wouldn't start again (just kept cranking). I let it sit overnight and it fired up first try the next day. I took it for another long ride, turned it off and then tried to start it again. It fired up a second time, so I went out for another rip around town, came home, turned it off, and no dice. Since that day, I've taken the carb apart (which was way cleaner than expected), checked the jets, checked the float needle, etc, and gave it a quick clean. I put the carb back in and went to start it and it cranked but didn't turn over, so I pulled the plug and checked for spark. Nothing.. Broke out the multimeter and checked resistance on the ignition coil, pickup coil, and source coil. All were within the specs in the FSM. I cleaned the electric connectors which all looked a little dirty, but okay. I also checked the kill switches for the clutch and kick stand, thinking that one would be the culprit, but it appears that both have been removed and bypassed by the previous owner. At the end of a day of troubleshooting, I put everything back together and found a hill to try a bumpstart. It bumped on the second try and I went around for a quick ride. Came home, turned it off, and it wouldn't start. As it did the last few times, it would crank and crank and crank and not fire up. Battery still reads high 12v, plug doesn't appear to be wet, and the float bowl has plenty of fuel in it. I'm sure i'm missing something, but the only other thing I can think of that's left is the CDI unit... I've read that the ignition coil can be bad even though it's within spec, but it was replaced about a year ago. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Looking forward to getting this thing back on the road!
  4. Has anyone ever replaced their signal relay with a non-suzuki one? Would a cheap/generic 12V, 23W one off ebay or amazon work? Any input would be appreciated on any experiences with a 3 dollar one vs a 50 dollar one.
  5. I have looked all over and cannot find a good accurate resource out there. I recently decided that it was time to tear into my 1990 DR350S. (suzuki) it would not run reliably or really at all anymore and I found that the compression was only about 80PSI. After tearing into the motor I found that overall it was in pretty good shape.. the Oil ring was stuck inside the piston so that it was not sealing well and it appeared that the valves may not have been seating well. Really I figure I can re-grind or re-seat the valves, replace the top end gaskets and piston rings and it should be good.. what I am wanting to know is how do you know if you should replace more (valves, timing chain, ect..) I do have a strong Mechanical background but have never liked or done much engine internals.. any advice would be greatly appreciated. I do have pictures of the valves.. you can see them here https://goo.gl/NH76kw... let me know if that does not work and I can copy them to this post.
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