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Showing results for tags 'dr650'.
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Hey guys, i just bought a Yoshimura RS-2 slip on with an FMF header for my DR650, I realized that they wouldn't fit together. Do you have an idea how can I make these fit together ? Thank you !
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My bike had been sitting a couple months after getting a brand new battery and everything was working fine. A family friend leaned on it and it stopped a couple weeks ago. I Just got a new seat and tried to start the bike but it won't start. The lights and signals all work the horn works but when I press the start or ignition button there is absolutely no sound or clicking or anything. I checked the battery with a multimeter and a battery charger and the battery is fine. I bought it a few months back. It's like no power is getting to the starter or something. I checked the kick stand switch and don't think that is the problem. Any help is very much appreciated!
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I know it just snowed 8"/20cm but this was a week earlier. Oh the great, white, north. Are ya coming up? https://youtu.be/-uB8i_UHXUc -
Hey all, new here. I’m going to look at what I believe is a 95 dr650s. The owner said it’s a 96 but it’s a kickstart bike. I thought 96 started the e-start generation. The bike has 12k on the clock and has a fer aftermarket goodies. He’s the second owner and the first was his buddy. All the maintenance was done at a local Moto shop. I’ll be getting as a trade and Im just wondering what I should be on the lookout for when I go check out the bike, common issues that should be addressed, etc... Thanks Chris
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Hey, long time rider, new to the forum...I came across a 1990 DR650 at a warehouse. The bike had 400 original miles on it. The owner couldn't get it to run, became frustrated with it and sold it to me. I took it home and serviced it, did the valves and built the carb and was riding it the next day. Starting this guy is a chore. I know the prime, kick and start drill but dang is this guy hard to start when its cold. Once it is warmed up it is 1 or 2 kicks. Any advice as to what I can do to help with cold starting??? The bike is bone stock. Has about 800 miles on it now. I am almost 60 and my knee will thank you!
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Hi all, new to DRs. Sold my RMZ450 and stopped racing motocross a few years ago and the motorcycle itch is killing me. I've been looking at XR650Ls and DRZ400s but haven't found one I liked. Came across this DR650: https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mcy/d/2004-suzuki-dr650/6295722542.html I spoke to the brother of the owner (who is selling the bike); he is very knowledgeable about the bike and the many mods. I researched the mods a bit an they all look like stuff I'd like to have done but would probably never get to, so they're a plus. A few questions: 1) Should I be concerned about the 24k miles? What kind of work will need to be done in the next 10-30k miles? 2) Thoughts on the price? I can't find much to compare it to. Cheaper than comparable XR650L's by about a grand....makes it very tempting. I assume as long as it's in good shape it will be worth at least $2k? Thanks for any and all comments. Love these forums!
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So I've been riding a crf230f road legal conversion done, but I need something a little more powerful, and able to ride longer distances on asphalt to get to a trail. I want something light weight and reliable, but also road worthy and inexpensive. Narrowed down to: Suzuki Drz400 BMW G650X challenge Dr650 (although too heavy) Xr650l (heard it lacks bottom end) Ktm, Husqvarna, ccm, husaberg etc are out of bounds (due to price or maintenance issues.) Note: buying second hand
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2006 DR650 The issue began suddenly one day when I was running the bike in the garage. I started the bike with a battery tender attached, it ran for a while, then I turned it off. When I tried to restart, nothing happened. Everything seems fine, all the electrical works fine, the battery is fine (I tested it), the 30A fuse is also fine. I bypassed the starting solenoid and the bike starts right up, so I assumed the solenoid was bad and replaced it with a new one. It still won't start. I may be missing something obvious, but I'm stuck. The only thing different is that I started it with the battery tender attached, which I've never done, but I read that's ok. Why will it only start when the solenoid is bypassed?
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I'm looking at picking up a used DR650/KLR/690 Enduro for the lady friend and there happens to be a cheap DR650 in my area for sale right now. The potential problem? It's a model year 2000 with less than 4500 miles on it. I have a 2013 DRZ-S that has about 6000 miles on it and I feel like that's borderline neglect so a 2000 with even less has me concerned. What should I look for or be concerned about that I can check in someones driveway. Would it be worth it to trailer it somewhere and have it checked out professionally? I'm new to the area and therefore don't have a "trusted mechanic" and the nearest Suzuki dealer is ~2.25 hour drive away. Edit: I should add that I've got probably 30 hours seat time on a 2007 DR650 so I know roughly how they should feel.
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HI! I am newcomer to this forum. Quick question, does the 2004 DRZ 400 gas tank fit on a 98 Dr650 ? Are they interchangeable? Thanks!
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Recently bought a clean looking 1999 DR 650. Ran well, didn’t shift well. Finally had to split the case and found an Allen wrench in the case. Come to find out the seller loaned it to a “friend” that used it and changed the oil. I have to thank the seller. He did refund the money and told me to keep the bike. Very good him. It needs a rebuild but I can’t afford it. Does anyone ever see any demand for parts bikes? Everything else is in great shape.
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Hey guys, and and all help would be appreciated as I really don't know much about what I'm doing. I got my 2012 DR650 last February (2021) and rode it though till the fall, had no issues like my current one. Since early June (2022) I've noticed that when I'm coming down from 5th gear, when I'm above appx 95kmph, the bike starts to die on me. It seems to be struggling with getting enough gas, yet when I give it more throttle or pull in the clutch it just fully dies. It isn't backfiring on the road, and it doesn't have any struggles at any lower gears, or when I'm going a steady speed above 110kmph. On top of all that, it has no problem starting back up once I bring it to a stand still. I originally thought the carb might be a bit dirty causing issues, so I cleaned it out (even though it looked quite clean once I got it opened) and while doing so I noticed my fuel filter's paper was torn so I replaced with a better, larger fuel filter. However it still runs into the same problems. Any information people might have on this problem would be more than welcome, even if its just saying I'm not the only one with the issue so I know I didn't break anything. Thanks
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Hey all. I've got a spark issue I cant seem to nail down. It's a 91 dr650s kick only with about 12k miles. The problem is that it'll only spark when it feels like it. If I get it started it runs great. I'll shut it off, go inside for an hour, come back out and there's no spark. I've only had it a couple months. Before me it sat in a garage for a year. I replaced the plugs, wires, caps and coil. Did a diode test on the regulator and it tested good. Stator was grounding to itself so I replaced that with a Rick's stator/pickup coil combo. Cleaned the ignition switch with electrical cleaner. All wire connections seem to have continuity. Neutral switch is working. Battery connections are solid. 30 amp fuse is intact. What else am I missing? Could it be the cdi? I've been pulling my hair out for three weeks over this turd.
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Hi guys. I recently found a 40F0 muffler for my DR650 and I'm buying a pro-cycle mid pipe kit for it. My question is, will there be much benefit to using an FMF power bomb header or will stock do just as well? Also, if anyone has a line on a mounting offset bracket for the 40F0 I would be interested. I know the pro-cycle kit has a strap, but i like the idea of using the existing mounting bracket. I have no welding skills to be able to reposition the bracket on the 40F0.
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Just did a cam rebuild strictly by the service manual and now there is an intermittent ticking coming from the cam cover area. Does anyone know what this is?
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I’ve got a 2000 DR650 with 23k miles that I’ve owned for the last 4 years. I consider myself pretty capable mechanically (rebuilt/restored other bikes as well), but this problem has me stumped. Here’s what happened: The bike was running normally, then sat for two months while I traveled (a friend was supposed to ride it, but oh well). I got back, put on some new brake pads and took it for a spin to bed-in the brakes. The bike was running well, I was having fun, and I sped up to 90mph on my way back home (it’s got a modified airbox, rejetted BST40 carb and GXSR exhaust…normally does 90 easy). All of a sudden the motor starts cutting out, I back off the gas and pull in the clutch, and the motor dies. Tried to start it again on the side of the road, no luck. When I try to start the bike, the starter motor cranks, the piston cycles, I have spark, but it will only fire for a millisecond and then die (maybe on just one stroke) after cranking for 4-5 seconds. Here’s what I’ve done so far: - Did a leakdown test, looked great at 95% - Changed oil, no metal shards found on magnetic drain plug or in pan - Cleaned carb - Drained old gas from tank, replaced with fresh gas and added fuel stabilizer - Adjusted valves (they were a tiny bit loose) - Replaced spark plugs (checked them on the bike, getting consistent bright blue sparks) - Tested resistance of pulsar coil, power coil, and ignition coil (both primary and secondary) - all within spec - Battery tested and in good shape After all this, I still have the same result when starting the bike. I haven’t tested the CDI box yet, but I think that’s the next thing on my list before tearing into the motor. Any ideas of where else to go from here? This really has me banging my head against the wall...
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I'm currently considering a 2000 DRZ 400 with 31,000 miles on it. The owner wants $2500 for it but I think I could get it down to $2000 since it's so old. It seems like the owner knew what he was doing and took care of it well since he knew to install a manual cam chain tensioner, a radiator guard, 3x3 mod, etc. I know the DRZ has a solid motor so I feel like if the bike itself has been well taken care of, it should at least have another 20K miles in it, right? Am I wasting my time with this bike or do you think it will last me if I take good care of it? What would you offer for this bike? Here's the post: https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/5989999685.html
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Hello all! My name is Miles and I need some help gauging what to expect for condition/"reliability" you could say, of my DRZ400E for cross country travel! I am looking into traveling the Trans America Trail. I'm from Rhode Island and found an alternate rout where I can start on the West border of Connecticut. Ending in Colorado, to Nevada, then California; and cruising something along the lines of RT66 back. [just for reference, don't mean to ramble] The Machine: 2003 DRZ400-E ~6k miles total - 5k lightly ridden, never seen dirt - 0.8k %100 hard off road [past year] Frequent Oil changes, Air Filter changes {I ride with the guy I purchased it from nearly daily. He was good about maintenance on the regular, but also pushe the bike in the woods just as much!} Front and Rear Suspension rebuilt, carburetor rebuilt all last year Stock everything except FMF power bomb header and exhaust muffler, and Vapor Trail Tech, lights + fork socks Expected Maintenance: Top End Rebuild, Timing, Valves adjusted [Have not done compression test, but i would expect new top to be necessary] obvious things such as Brake Pads, Fluids, Chain/Sprockets, Tries, Heavy Tubes From this information, And Any You Can Think Of To Ask, does this DRZ have potential for the Trans America Trail; a ~6'000 dirt, then ~4,000 road return trip?! Or would I be better off selling it for a newer model? Thanks! -Miles -
So my negligence has left me with several hooked teeth on the balancer drive sprocket (directly behind the flywheel on crankshaft). I need some help on replacing it. 1.) The manual states that i need special tool 09917-23711 (ring nut socket wrench) in order to remove the old one and torque down the replacement. I've seen the Suzuki branded tool for $114 - 180. There's also an undbranded one on ebay for $60. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Cranksh ... 2630!US!-1 If I can help I'd rather not have to purchase a tool I'm only going to use once. Does anyone have one they can lend me if I put a deposit on it? 2.) The manual also states that I need a Conrod Holder #09910-20116, I'm guessing that would stop the crank from spinning during removal and reinstallation. Is there any way I could get around this as well? I've seen a youtube video of someone locking up the piston by feeding a shoestring through the sparkplug hole. I'm not sure I trust that not to go wrong and have dirt/fabric in my cylinder. If I put the bike in gear and ratchet strap the rear wheel to the frame or something more stout, like a tree, would that prevent the crank from spinning? 3.) Also part # 12662-37402 Suzuki balancer drive sprocket usually runs about $130 new. Does anyone have a used one in decent condition they'd be willing to cut me a deal on?
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I recently purchased an 04’ Suzuki DR650 that already has the normal mod for the rear fender & smaller streamline trail/brake light. Like from another Suzuki model. The brake light work properly but the tail/running light doesn’t. I started w/the easiest fix and changed the dual filament bulb, even though it looked fine, to know avail. Next I checked for voltage at the closet connection point to the bulb, which is under the LH side panel. No voltage there so since the wiring harness is mostly sealed throughout & after looking at a wiring diagram, I’m still not having any luck so I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue that could offer some pointers?! I also sprayed some electronics cleaner in the ignition to no avail. Thank you
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Here’s a video of me running the trans Missouri Trail last season. I’m ended up skipping several portions of it because I’m GPS illiterate, but still had a great time. My buddy only ran with me for one day due to a rear tire not being repairable. I’d like to run the entire route again sometime. This is my first real video I ever edited so please keep that in mind. It’s a little long, but if you’re bored feel free to check it out.
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Hi guys, I'm a little surprised (possibly ignorantly) at the lack of comparison videos and posts between these bikes so here is a disjointed, wannabe essay. Intro (Skippable): I am a really indecisive, brand new Australian rider who has been researching (aka procrastinating) on what first bike to buy for months. I have recently become gung-ho and realised that I need to pull the trigger soon (especially after watching this: "DR650 :: Lost and Found" - https://youtu.be/AEWQPJnE9pU) or I will be dreaming forever. I was originally set on the crf250L, but from my expansion of budget and hours of videos, articles & forums etc. I have come to a decision between a DR650 or a CRF300L (or possibly 250L as a last resort); used former/new latter at similar price. Main Segment (Long TLDR): 170lbs/6ft/21yo, New Rider from AUS My main question here is really of power as I want to be able to COMFORTABLY ride at 100-110kmh (60-70mph) with maybe a little extra to spare for overtaking. Is the DR650 a good option if I become thirsty for power with experience? +1 DR650? I also am ignorant to how much the technology differences matter. The DR is a dinosaur, but modifiable and reliable, compared to the CRF with its modernity: ABS, EFI, slipper clutch etc. Does these things really make a difference to the bikes? +1 CRF300L Not going to lie, price is a big factor in my decision and a brand new CRF300l (8-9k AUD/5.5-6.2k USD) is currently similar price to a used DR650 in OZ. Is it worth it? Or should I go with a minimally used CRF250L for 5-6.5k AUD/ 3.5-4.5k USD? +1 CRF250L I will most likely use the bike as a casual adventurer, 50/50 on/off road, with some single tracks and camping trips sprinkled in. Modifications seem like a must for both bikes and I am happy to get my hands dirty with mechanical adjustments (especially for the DR650). It's honestly neck and neck for me. Overall what would you guys go with if you were me? Any and all help is appreciated. Cheers, Josh Note: Didn't include DRZ because the 300L is a better alternative, but feel free to recommend it or any other alternatives . Extended Info/Rant: Honestly most of this is me processing thoughts, but it adds information to my situation. The DR650 was discontinued in Australia this year (2022) due to ABS and pollution laws. This has resulted in used market prices asking previous MSRP. I can only find 1 new model available nation wide who are asking 12K AUD/ 8K USD! (I am happy buying used though) And there is not a replacement in sight or comparable alternative to be found apart from selling a kidney for a KTM 690 Enduro R. On the other hand is stock shortages for the 300L also resulting in price spikes for new and used. So clearly my timing for becoming a rider has been very poor and honestly it is taking a toll on my motivation for adventure. Therefore I feel like its now or never, even if it means being ripped off a couple k. My Reasons For Each: DR650 More Powa Baby! Aussie icon with a strong culture Sexy AF (like a well aged MILF or wine, whichever you fancy 😉) More modifiable and more available mods (as far as I know) Simple and easy to work on. Discontinued in Aus which makes it a potential collectable and probably hold value More opportunity to buy used, this could include mods with bike and cheaper price etc. CRF300L More affordable (slightly, 2-3k AUD difference at most) Modern Features (ABS, EFI, Slipper Clutch etc) Easier to maintain (possibly more reliable as well) More nimble More opportunity to buy new, warranty, peace of mind etc. All of the above possibly making it more beginner friendly -
So I am in the market for a dual sport bike, I've ridden bikes for several years on and off the road and I'm looking for something that can do both so I don't have to keep trailering my ktm 200 exc. I would be using the bike for commuting a good bit, only 40 to 50 miles a day max all under 65 mph with fire and service roads on the weekends and with the occasional trail ride, I have good deals on dr650's and drz400's in my area of georgia but I can't seem to decide. Can anyone that has ridden both give me some opinions on what might be better for my situation? I know the dr is better on road and the drz is better off road, but how bad is the drz on road and vice versa for the dr?
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I have a 2013 DR650SE, with heavy springs and intimidators because I ride to the trails and do a lot of off road, I have decided to do the USD forks. Luckily, I already have a set of 2004 WR450R 48mm forks and Triple Trees. I plan to keep the front end as close to the DR as possible by using the DR wheel. Since I have not seen anyone convert the original hub to a 20mm axle I figured I would try. Stem: I purchased the All Ball bearing conversion set for this. Will use a spacer or Press DR stem onto YZ bottom clamp Wheel: I ordered some 20mm x 35mm x 9mm wheel bearings to replace the 17mm x 35mm x 10mm. Fairing/mounting: I purchased a set of DRZ light brackets to mount everything. Will customize mounts for Ignition Switch and Dash.... Brake: I also ordered a 270mm Rotor bracket for the YZ forks and a 270mm rotor. DR Caliper mounts to the forks. My main issues will be rotor and wheel spacing. As I work through this I plan to post pictures of the build to assist others. I would prefer to keep the stock speedometer and thought about swapping the speedometer assembly box with the DRZ since it is 20mm. I know I could machine a top hat for the DR axle and that will be plan B if I cannot make it work on the YZ 20mm axle. If you have one I would buy it 🤪 Plan C, will be use a YZ front wheel and get a digital speedometer. Obvious I could change the hub, but that wouldn’t be as fun😉 Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
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so I am undecided between DR650 DRZ400 anyone has any experience how much I can get it below MSRP? the DR650: BASE MSRP◊ $6,699 + DESTINATION CHARGE $365.00 the DRZ400: BASE MSRP◊ $6,699 + DESTINATION CHARGE $365.00 can they remove destination charge and even go below MSRP? if so how much do you think? I was hoping to get it @ about $6100 OTD so that would be removing destination charge and getting the MSRP to about 5800. is that too little for a dirtbike? I can understand for ATVS that cost 13k 14k and shed off 1000, but unfamiliar with this low (negotiating wise)
