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Found 195 results

  1. Hello friends, Just thought I'd share a short summary video of a 154-mile adventure ride my buddy and I did last week. Northeastern AZ has an unbelievable amount of rural trail/road to explore. My KLX300R averaged 71.5 MPG on this ride.
  2. I apologize for how long it took to make this video. I compared my Stock WR250R light to the H4 LED TurboII light I bought a few months back off of Amazon. I never really rode with the stock light cause I got the LED right away but, honestly what a difference in the light. I also compared the light to my buddy's "amped79" Honda XR 400R. Major difference. Check it out. Please leave comments or questions below. Like Share this video. Subscribe now. Thanks for watching. Check out Amped79 channel here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGLWq_YBspZY2jzJBG4Op3A
  3. Hi all whilst looking for bits n bobs for my drz400s stock to be uncorked/ solenoid removed, I found that a Suzuki bandit 1200 carb top diaphragm cover will fit the drz400, my main point here is no need to plug the top valve on carb as the bandit cover do not have a valve to bung so one out the way 🙂 just thought I'd share this info.
  4. Hey DRZers. I have a question for those with the experience and knowledge. I have two DRZ400Es('01 and '02). Both have full aftermarket exhausts with spark arrestors. The 2001 is street legal and the '02 is not, as of yet(fingers crossed), I'm in CA. On the '01 it has a full Yoshimura Comp exhaust and I am wondering which set up better or the differences in performance characteristics. I can't just jump on each bike to do testing as the '02 is not registered yet because I am attempting to get it street legal. So I was wondering if anyone on here has first hand experience and knowledge of these two systems on these bikes. I want to take the best off both bikes and then sell off the other once the '02 is street legal. I will note that the Yoshimura system was probably put on the bike back in 2001-02 as the bike was fully set up for desert runs with ProCircuit Suspension tuning, Tokyo Mods Carb work(which was crap) and a Baja Kit light set up. I state this because the Yoshi system is old and must be straight from the designs they made for Mike Kiedrowski and Suzuki's eduro team. Also, the header on the Yoshi is about 3cm larger on the OD than the T4. Here are two photos of the Yoshi system. The T4 muffler is significantly smaller in diameter and rides higher up next to the fender. I'm planning to make sure one of the bikes if fully buttoned up tight for a first time entry into the Barstow to Vegas race in November. weight is of some concern. Thanks guys!!!
  5. Made a quick video last night on the two water crossings we did this last week on the Oregon Back Country Discovery (OBDR) Route #4 from Seneca to Sisters, Oregon. This OBDR segment (Route 4) covers about 240 miles of pretty darn remote area. You have to cross the Malheur river at two different points about 22 miles apart. Fun crossings. Not terribly difficult in July, but you can screw it up and hydrolock your bike if you aren't careful. (I've seen more than one video on YouTube of folks dumping their bike and sucking in a cylinder full of water.) The GPS coordinates of each crossing are in the video, but here's the data also: North Fork of the Malheur River “Crane Crossing” 44º09’34.45” N 118º22’06.79” W Elevation 4506 feet Approx 22 miles apart Malheur River Crossing at the Malheur Ford Trailhead 44º05’13.17” N 118º34’46.88” W Elevation 4781 feet Here's info on the different Oregon Back Country Discovery Route: http://www.oohva.org/index.html
  6. *Moved from sportbike forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  7. Hi everyone, I have a 03 DRZ-400s, and since ive bought it ive had the same problem after many tries and successes at fixing. Basically when ever it feels like it(it has to be cold) it will decide not to start and will most of the time just let out huge ass backfire 3 or 4 times while trying to start her. I have cleaned out my carb about 8 times now, with 2 different bike "experts helping me". It seems as if everytime i clean the carb it will the work- sometimes for months and sometimes only for hours and then BACK to the original issue of not starting and only backfiring... (when she does run though she runs beautifully and when trying to start her IF she doesnt backfire she will start on first swing everytime.) I have checked valve clearances and are within tolerances. ANY SUGGESTIONS??
  8. Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note:
  9. So I've been riding a crf230f road legal conversion done, but I need something a little more powerful, and able to ride longer distances on asphalt to get to a trail. I want something light weight and reliable, but also road worthy and inexpensive. Narrowed down to: Suzuki Drz400 BMW G650X challenge Dr650 (although too heavy) Xr650l (heard it lacks bottom end) Ktm, Husqvarna, ccm, husaberg etc are out of bounds (due to price or maintenance issues.) Note: buying second hand
  10. I'm looking for some advice and opinions. I am keen to start doing some trail riding/enduro and possible super moto and was looking for a light weight bike I can ride the 100km round trail to the trails in Perth. A lot of the road riding is 100kmph freeway. The trails are very sandy at the moment and the super moto would be on go-kart tracks. I've owned a DRZ400S in the past and loved the bike! However it would be nice if it was a bit lighter. The DRZ400E is definitely a big consideration but I'm also looking at a 2007 EXC250F. I'm happy to do some maintenance but I'm worried that the 250 would get a lot of wear with the freeway riding. What are peoples thoughts? Any experience with the 2007 EXC250F and dual sport riding one would be great.
  11. Hi all, Hoping someone can help. Basically I require the bush/bearing that sits in the crank arm on the small end. (the bush sleeve, bronze, brass thing, whatever you call it) Im based in the UK and Im having a hard time of finding a replacement. long story short, the bike acquired an oil leak while on a long journey and ended up running low on oil. I've stripped the engine, and everything is good apart from the piston and cylinder. I can't feel any play in the small end rod bush but it is marked and I'm changing it more for peace of mind than anything else. ps: I realise the bush maybe marked due to the softer material insert? I'm used to looking at cranks without this bush. (connecting rod) example
  12. Hey all when i open the throttle up on the DR it makes a ticking noise ive changed oil about 300KM ago and it has the automatic timing chain adjuster so im not really sure what the noise could be. i haven't really had my DRZ for too long so im not sure if they just have a loud engine or something but theres no issues in its performance or anything but the ticking is getting lowder slowly Thanks
  13. Looking for info on an H4 LED bulb replacement. I'm not looking to use the 4x6 headlights many have used. I'll be doing the KLX450 headlight/fairing mod. Looks like eBay has a bunch of options, but to use with stock DRZ wiring what wattage/specs am I looking for? Anyone had success/nightmares? Looking at something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-H4-6500K-COB-LED-Motorcycle-Hi-Lo-Fog-Lamp-Headlight-Bulb-For-Moto-RH/292243629220?hash=item440b13e4a4:g:mxwAAOSwJ~RZsOJ4&vxp=mtr
  14. Hey all, i'm from Australia and i've been putting 98 Premium into my bike but its going off pretty quick and im only getting 120ishKM per tank and i was wondering if i put a different kind of fuel in my bike would i get more KM per tank? thanks
  15. Thanks for visiting my 2001 Suzuki DRZ400e resto/build thread. I picked up my DRZ this past summer shortly before getting my endorsement. I have plenty of off-roading and wrenching experience although it’s all been focused on 4x4’s and mountain bikes. A couple buddies and I all picked up project (of varying degrees) dual sports with hopes of exploring the northern Colorado national forests and good old adventure on 2 wheels. The previous owner of this bike only had it for a short period of time and didn’t have much history on it. It came with studded tires, a worn out ACCT, and running pretty lean. This thread will document my resto/build with the intent of 25% street/commuting, 50% forest service road exploring, and 25% enduro-type trails. Here is a list of items I addressed shortly after acquiring the bike: Tusk Motorcycle Enduro Lighting kit (bike is now titled and plated in CO) New disc brake pads Oil and filter change New Tires… Kenda K760 Trakmaster II rear, Pirelli MT21 front All Balls Wheel Bearing kits (front & Rear) New foam air filter (Tusk) New Tusk valve cover gasket Thumpertalk MCCT Pigtail for trickle charger Checked valve clearance (all in tolerance) A few other upgrades/mod’s that I can see have already been added: Scott’s triple clamp Air box has been opened up Auxillary CPU fan on radiator Radiator guard (not sure on brand) Factory Effex seat (not sure if this is an upgrade) Skidplate Over the next couple weeks I plan to begin disassembling the bike down to the frame and here are the planned upgrade/maintenance items I plan to address (depending on funding) before the spring riding season: IMS 4.0 Tank Seat Concepts saddle (foam kit) Tusk D Flex pro hand guards ProGrip 714 grips LED low/high beam upgrades with a customer headlight housing Ram Mount Spring grip (iphone) New plastics for front/rear fender and side panels (black) De-rust stock exhaust and paint black Service swingarm bearings Gather a tool kit, first aide kit, and spare parts kit Wider ebay pedals Trackside 12v adapter to cockpit Paint the frame (reading lots on paint vs powdercoat) Polish wheels / de-rust spokes Check jetting in carb… add JD Jet Kit as necessary Thumpertalk case savers… may need to replace case on right side (damaged) Smooth the back of the shifter near the folding tip it has kind of a sharp edge that can still damage thru the case saver Delete clutch and stand switches Free Power Mod Go through wiring harness and shorten/clean up/re-do connections/silicone grease in every electrical connector New Drive chain and sprocket(s)… still researching desired gearing (recommendations welcome) Flush brake fluid Flush radiator fluid Maintain / tune suspension as needed I would love for you all to join me on this journey and add your recommendations/opinions on upgrades, personal experience, alternative brands, things I’ve missed, etc. I will be taking my time to post details on the upgrades I’m making along the way although I’m not bringing innovation to what you all have already accomplished. Thanks again and I look forward to learning from and sharing with this community as I go!
  16. All righty folks, put your thinking caps on.... What size is the hole in the Mikuni 22.5 pilot jet for the BSR36? (been around the Google for a while and I can find all the other relevant dimensions for the jet but not the hold diameter) is it 22.5 thousands of a inch? 22.5 hundredths of a mm?
  17. This has been an ongoing issue, as I am sure some of you are beginning to notice.. sorry for the somewhat repetitive posts in advance. My valves were out of spec, I was only getting 85-90 PSI of compression. I shimmed my valves to the correct clearance, and I got the compression up to 150 psi. Now after riding my bike for 15-20 minutes, it will start doing the same thing it did before - it will idle super low and eventually bog out. I had the idle adjustment turned up very high, when I gave it a little throttle the idle would kick up for a couple seconds, then it would settle back down to extremely low and bog out. To me this sounds like something with the idle air circ, or jetting. Could something with the valves cause this as well? Want to get a second opinion before I send the head in for the $500 rebuild and still have the same issue. Thank you all again!
  18. Hey all, so, I have klx250s 2018. Issue is, it struggles to keep 65 70mph with an upgraded 14T sprocket. I passed by the dealer, and they have a used DRZ400....issue is, I am not even sure if its the E or S. Seems it does not have a speedometer, just a trip counter. Not really a big deal to me. To me, when I ride my KLX250 its pretty comfortable for me at 65 70 mph but I am hitting full throttle and it takes about 15 seconds to reach 60mph lol and even way longer to reach 70 mph. Ive heard, and from youtube videos, drz400 can hit 0 - 60 in about 5 - 7 seconds, which is perfect for me. I am also looking for a bike that can hold 70 75 mph. My klx250 can do it, but only going down hill and it takes over a minute if I am going straight ha ha. Again, buzzing and wind does not bother me...just need a stronger engine. Would the DRZ400 do it? my other issue, I cant tell if its a dedicated dirt bike turned street legal, or if its the actual dual sport. is there a power difference going 65 - 70 mph? or am I better off with the DR650? but I even head the drz400 has better power going to 60 - 70 mph
  19. I have a lightly used set of stock 2015 gold drz400sm wheels that I'm not using. They're listed in classifieds, but not sure what the going rate is for factory supermoto wheels these days. Any thoughts on what I should ask? And is anyone interested?
  20. Anyone’s air box smell like gas ? Is this normal ? Air filter is bone dry but it reeks in there .... I’m assuming cause of the carb being semi filled with gas ??
  21. Hi guys, Had an interesting experience on the way to work this morning. My morning commute consists of mostly highway. I was driving in 5th gear at ~75-80 (15/41 gearing) and I got a quick choke on the engine, as if I was outta gas. Nothing huge, just a slowdown for a second. Now I'm still on the highway and everything seems fine afterwards but about two minutes later, I'm starting to see a bit of traffic ahead. Naturally I let off the throttle a little, but the RPMs stay very high, despite the throttle closing. Downshift and now the RPMs are even higher (as if I was on the throttle). At this point I pulled in the clutch, let totally off the throttle. The clutch works fine as all power was taken off the drive, but those RPMs didn't go anywhere. I've had a stuck throttle cable before and this does not seem to be the problem (from a quick glance). The throttle returns to its closed position no problem, but the engine is still revving at quite high RPMs no matter what. Relatively new (<6mo old Motion Pro) throttle cable that was properly lubed. Luckily I was able to get to work just fine, but upon turning everything off and restarting, same problem. Throttle seems to be stuck open and I have no idea what direction to go in. When the bike is off and I pull the throttle then release, I'm pretty sure I can hear the click of it closing completely, so I'm dumbfounded on this one. Apologies in advance because I'm at work and only have absolute basic tools on me, and can't get to the carb right now (also time restricted). FWIW, I can rev the bike higher than where it is stuck, but it will not go below a certain point. Like I said, throttle cable seems to return just fine, but it is definitely stuck open (maybe just the port on the throttle or something? maybe one of the springs? maybe jetting needle is fooked?) Thanks in advance, looks like I'm out of action for at least the next couple days
  22. I just bought a new DRZ400, and am hoping to remove the passenger pegs. I've seen on the forums that there used to be a part you could get to attach the exhaust in place of the peg mount, but I can't seem to find anywhere that carries it now. Are there any good options that don't require modification? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Hey TT, I just got 2005 DRZ400E. It didn't come with any manuals that's why I'm asking fellow DRZ owners for some help. Please bear with me if I'm asking obvious and or lame questions, it's my first bike . I'm in Colorado @5280' plan to take it to higher elevations. My riding will be some pavement and the rest FSR's, maybe some super easy single tracks initially. I plan to plate it. What manual, including repair manual, can be recommended? Anything available to download? I found a manual on DRZ400E.com but it seems to be for the S model and not the E. What gas should I use? It's a higher compression motor and I believe the manual calls for 91. Although, would it be different at a higher altitude? What oil and filter should I use? How ofter should I be changing oil? What air filter and sealant is recommended? What hand guards do you recommend? Integrated turn signals might be nice but not a deal breaker Skid/bash plate. Security. It's stored in the garage most of the time but I might need some extra security when I travel. Here are some things I thing might be useful. Any thoughts? Front disk break lock with alarm Heavy duty chain and a lock Speedometer. It just came with a trip meter. What break fluid can be used? What coolant should I user? Any cool taillight hubs? Front and rear tires. I'm thinking of getting Kenda Trackmaster II K760 as they appear to be a good bang for the buck. Are Dunlop D606 that much better as the price suggests? Mirrors. Something neat would be nice.
  24. Hey, new member here looking for opinions I have about 8k miles on my 2015 DRZ400sm. I was riding about 80mph and felt a momentary loss of power, dropped off the throttle and it felt ok. At the next stop i could here top end noise like the piston was tapping so i tore it apart and found: The upper piston ring was ok, the lower was stuck in the groove (flush with the piston ) and unable to move around the piston. there was scuffing on both intake and exhaust side of the jug and piston. Before tearing apart i did a leakdown and could hear air from exhaust and from down by the timing chain. I will try to post pic and video with this post Bike was running great then had started puffing smoke when i get on it quick, and the idle would fluctuate a good bit 2015 DRZ- 3x3, k&n filter, FCR39 (with eddie mod) DRZ E airbox boot and exhaust header with drilled out stock SM muffler with "power tip"
  25. I just bought a 2002 drz400s with 10,000 miles on it. When I picked it up I only took a quick spin around a parking lot , not enough to notice any of the things I notice now. It had been sitting a while before I bought it (I bought it from a shop) so before the owner would sell it to me he took the carb all apart and cleaned it out. When I got it home, I put some new fuel in it and fired it up, it seemed like the idle adjustment was quite high. I backed that down a bit and it seemed to run ok for a little while. (bike hasn't even been running 30 minutes total since I bought it last week) now I notice the beginning throttle delivery seems very jerky and it seems like the bike is struggling early on and then gets better higher in the RPMs. I mistakenly left the petcock on prime the night I brought it home and had to change my oil today because I could smell gas had gotten into it(first time drz owner...lesson learned.) So I put mobile 1 20w-50 in it and a new filter and started it up to take it for a spin. It starts ok (not great), idles high on half and full choke as expected and then when off choke it has a kinda rough idle and if I blip the throttle half of the time it will just shut off. I don't want to turn this into an oil thread but is it possible 20w-50 is too heavy for the 50 degree temps outside? I know there is a vast amount of drz knowledge on this site so what do you guys think about whats going on? It has a stock exhaust, no 3x3 and as far as I know stock jetting, filter looks good (I am going to pull it and clean it anyway) and I'm about 500ft above sea level. Hopefully this info will help the drz gurus make some suggestions. Like I said this is my first drz so maybe the kinda instant jerk followed by seemingly lagging power delivery is normal for these, but coming off of any other bike I have ever ridden it seems a little strange to me.
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