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Found 181 results

  1. Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note:
  2. Hello all, I apologize if this question has been asked already, I have spent the last 30 minutes trying to find an answer to my question to no avail. So here we go: I decided to get my factory wheels powder coated (just the hubs, spokes, and nipples) to help jazz things up a bit. I sent the wheels out to my powder coat guy, he is a huge Suzuki guy and is a factory certified Suzuki technician as well as an MMI graduate with perfect attendance. The guy really knows his stuff. However he is more of a GSXR specialist and doesn't mess with dirt bikes too much. So after coating the wheels he sent them to the local Suzuki dealership to have them re-assembled and trued. I'm not sure how much these guys know about DRZ's as they are more of a Yamaha/Kawasaki heavy dealership but they do sell a few Suzuki's (This is the same place I bought my sm brand new) and the guy who laced the wheels is a big name in the local motocross scene. Anyways; my guy got them back, called me, and I picked them up and installed them on my bike immediately. After putting the bike back together I immediately noticed my chain was now rubbing my tire. I did some research and came to the conclusion (educated guess is probably more accurate) that the wheel offset is incorrect. I'm not really the most comfortable attempting to fix this myself but I figure it has to go back regardless if I don't, so I might as well try and take a stab at it. I contacted my guy and he said he verified that the wheel is true and that the hub was perfectly center when he received it back from the dealership. However, I have read on Supermotojunkie that the DRZ has a right side offset from the factory and am wondering it that's what the issue is. If that is true, does anyone know what the offset is supposed to be? Or how I can determine what it should be? Also will I be able to get away with just using a spoke wrench to try and tackle this by myself? The bike has stunt pegs so I was just gonna disconnect the chain and set it up on jack stands to use the swing arm and axle as a "truing stand". Also, any other things to look for that might suggest it's not an offset issue? I added a new chain and sprocket as well but the chain is a 520 chain just like the stock one and the sprocket is a steel sprocket as before as well, so I doubt it's any different in thickness. It came from Supersprox and is nice and beefy. Thank you all in advance for your help! Any information is appreciated.
  3. I have my 2001 DRZ400S I have converted to a supermoto, and now I want to start doing performance mods. I want to do the 3X3 mod, along with a jet kit, and a pipe. As of now my personal choice is going to be the Yoshi RS2 Full system, a Dynojet jet kit, and a K&N filter for the 3X3. I am posting this to see if anyone would disagree with this setup, or have any recommendations on what might be better or worth doing along the way. (I do not want to wait 4 weeks for the MRD exhaust or I would go that route) Any comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated, Going to do this in about one week. Thank you, Brad
  4. Made a quick video last night on the two water crossings we did this last week on the Oregon Back Country Discovery (OBDR) Route #4 from Seneca to Sisters, Oregon. This OBDR segment (Route 4) covers about 240 miles of pretty darn remote area. You have to cross the Malheur river at two different points about 22 miles apart. Fun crossings. Not terribly difficult in July, but you can screw it up and hydrolock your bike if you aren't careful. (I've seen more than one video on YouTube of folks dumping their bike and sucking in a cylinder full of water.) The GPS coordinates of each crossing are in the video, but here's the data also: North Fork of the Malheur River “Crane Crossing” 44º09’34.45” N 118º22’06.79” W Elevation 4506 feet Approx 22 miles apart Malheur River Crossing at the Malheur Ford Trailhead 44º05’13.17” N 118º34’46.88” W Elevation 4781 feet Here's info on the different Oregon Back Country Discovery Route: http://www.oohva.org/index.html
  5. Hey DRZers. I have a question for those with the experience and knowledge. I have two DRZ400Es('01 and '02). Both have full aftermarket exhausts with spark arrestors. The 2001 is street legal and the '02 is not, as of yet(fingers crossed), I'm in CA. On the '01 it has a full Yoshimura Comp exhaust and I am wondering which set up better or the differences in performance characteristics. I can't just jump on each bike to do testing as the '02 is not registered yet because I am attempting to get it street legal. So I was wondering if anyone on here has first hand experience and knowledge of these two systems on these bikes. I want to take the best off both bikes and then sell off the other once the '02 is street legal. I will note that the Yoshimura system was probably put on the bike back in 2001-02 as the bike was fully set up for desert runs with ProCircuit Suspension tuning, Tokyo Mods Carb work(which was crap) and a Baja Kit light set up. I state this because the Yoshi system is old and must be straight from the designs they made for Mike Kiedrowski and Suzuki's eduro team. Also, the header on the Yoshi is about 3cm larger on the OD than the T4. Here are two photos of the Yoshi system. The T4 muffler is significantly smaller in diameter and rides higher up next to the fender. I'm planning to make sure one of the bikes if fully buttoned up tight for a first time entry into the Barstow to Vegas race in November. weight is of some concern. Thanks guys!!!
  6. So I've been riding a crf230f road legal conversion done, but I need something a little more powerful, and able to ride longer distances on asphalt to get to a trail. I want something light weight and reliable, but also road worthy and inexpensive. Narrowed down to: Suzuki Drz400 BMW G650X challenge Dr650 (although too heavy) Xr650l (heard it lacks bottom end) Ktm, Husqvarna, ccm, husaberg etc are out of bounds (due to price or maintenance issues.) Note: buying second hand
  7. Hi everyone, I have a 03 DRZ-400s, and since ive bought it ive had the same problem after many tries and successes at fixing. Basically when ever it feels like it(it has to be cold) it will decide not to start and will most of the time just let out huge ass backfire 3 or 4 times while trying to start her. I have cleaned out my carb about 8 times now, with 2 different bike "experts helping me". It seems as if everytime i clean the carb it will the work- sometimes for months and sometimes only for hours and then BACK to the original issue of not starting and only backfiring... (when she does run though she runs beautifully and when trying to start her IF she doesnt backfire she will start on first swing everytime.) I have checked valve clearances and are within tolerances. ANY SUGGESTIONS??
  8. *Moved from sportbike forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  9. i have a 2002 drz400s with the stock tail light. the running light works but when i go to press the brakes the light doesnt get brighter. ive changed the bulb out and it is still the same. when i turn the parking light on the light does get brighter. ive tried jiggling around some wires but no luck. ive read some other threads saying it could be a switch but im not sure on how to check if the switch is bad. Thanks in advance
  10. I'm getting my bike ready to run a big chunk of the Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route (OBDR) this summer so I'm going through it adding things I think will help bulletproof the bike and maybe keep me from having "issues" when I'm 100 miles from nowhere in the middle of the desert in Eastern Oregon. What I hate is that since these products are made for such a niche market the prices are just ridiculous. So in that vein, here's another $89 worth of aluminum...sigh... One thing I've noticed online is that there is sometimes a lack of good clear pictures or videos on specific parts for the DR-Z, so I try to rectify that with my videos. (aka: I use a tripod as much as possible...lol...)
  11. Hi all whilst looking for bits n bobs for my drz400s stock to be uncorked/ solenoid removed, I found that a Suzuki bandit 1200 carb top diaphragm cover will fit the drz400, my main point here is no need to plug the top valve on carb as the bandit cover do not have a valve to bung so one out the way just thought I'd share this info.
  12. Hey all, so, I have klx250s 2018. Issue is, it struggles to keep 65 70mph with an upgraded 14T sprocket. I passed by the dealer, and they have a used DRZ400....issue is, I am not even sure if its the E or S. Seems it does not have a speedometer, just a trip counter. Not really a big deal to me. To me, when I ride my KLX250 its pretty comfortable for me at 65 70 mph but I am hitting full throttle and it takes about 15 seconds to reach 60mph lol and even way longer to reach 70 mph. Ive heard, and from youtube videos, drz400 can hit 0 - 60 in about 5 - 7 seconds, which is perfect for me. I am also looking for a bike that can hold 70 75 mph. My klx250 can do it, but only going down hill and it takes over a minute if I am going straight ha ha. Again, buzzing and wind does not bother me...just need a stronger engine. Would the DRZ400 do it? my other issue, I cant tell if its a dedicated dirt bike turned street legal, or if its the actual dual sport. is there a power difference going 65 - 70 mph? or am I better off with the DR650? but I even head the drz400 has better power going to 60 - 70 mph
  13. Hi all, I am doing a top rebuild to a 434 big bore on the drz and clutch plates replacement and when I drained out the oil there was a very small spring on the drainage magnet and I have no clue from where it could've come from any of you guys know where it could've come from Thanks in advance
  14. I just bought a 2002 drz400s with 10,000 miles on it. When I picked it up I only took a quick spin around a parking lot , not enough to notice any of the things I notice now. It had been sitting a while before I bought it (I bought it from a shop) so before the owner would sell it to me he took the carb all apart and cleaned it out. When I got it home, I put some new fuel in it and fired it up, it seemed like the idle adjustment was quite high. I backed that down a bit and it seemed to run ok for a little while. (bike hasn't even been running 30 minutes total since I bought it last week) now I notice the beginning throttle delivery seems very jerky and it seems like the bike is struggling early on and then gets better higher in the RPMs. I mistakenly left the petcock on prime the night I brought it home and had to change my oil today because I could smell gas had gotten into it(first time drz owner...lesson learned.) So I put mobile 1 20w-50 in it and a new filter and started it up to take it for a spin. It starts ok (not great), idles high on half and full choke as expected and then when off choke it has a kinda rough idle and if I blip the throttle half of the time it will just shut off. I don't want to turn this into an oil thread but is it possible 20w-50 is too heavy for the 50 degree temps outside? I know there is a vast amount of drz knowledge on this site so what do you guys think about whats going on? It has a stock exhaust, no 3x3 and as far as I know stock jetting, filter looks good (I am going to pull it and clean it anyway) and I'm about 500ft above sea level. Hopefully this info will help the drz gurus make some suggestions. Like I said this is my first drz so maybe the kinda instant jerk followed by seemingly lagging power delivery is normal for these, but coming off of any other bike I have ever ridden it seems a little strange to me.
  15. Anyone’s air box smell like gas ? Is this normal ? Air filter is bone dry but it reeks in there .... I’m assuming cause of the carb being semi filled with gas ??
  16. hey all, im thinking about getting a new carb for my drz i see people saying that the fcr one is good but when i ebay search it a few brands come up, what is the best brand for performance and what fcr size should i go with? i was thinking either the 40 or the 39. at the moment my bike has a Keihin carb on it and idk what size that would be but its slow and really sluggish. thanks
  17. Hi all, Hoping someone can help. Basically I require the bush/bearing that sits in the crank arm on the small end. (the bush sleeve, bronze, brass thing, whatever you call it) Im based in the UK and Im having a hard time of finding a replacement. long story short, the bike acquired an oil leak while on a long journey and ended up running low on oil. I've stripped the engine, and everything is good apart from the piston and cylinder. I can't feel any play in the small end rod bush but it is marked and I'm changing it more for peace of mind than anything else. ps: I realise the bush maybe marked due to the softer material insert? I'm used to looking at cranks without this bush. (connecting rod) example
  18. Hey all, i'm from Australia and i've been putting 98 Premium into my bike but its going off pretty quick and im only getting 120ishKM per tank and i was wondering if i put a different kind of fuel in my bike would i get more KM per tank? thanks
  19. I'm looking for some advice and opinions. I am keen to start doing some trail riding/enduro and possible super moto and was looking for a light weight bike I can ride the 100km round trail to the trails in Perth. A lot of the road riding is 100kmph freeway. The trails are very sandy at the moment and the super moto would be on go-kart tracks. I've owned a DRZ400S in the past and loved the bike! However it would be nice if it was a bit lighter. The DRZ400E is definitely a big consideration but I'm also looking at a 2007 EXC250F. I'm happy to do some maintenance but I'm worried that the 250 would get a lot of wear with the freeway riding. What are peoples thoughts? Any experience with the 2007 EXC250F and dual sport riding one would be great.
  20. Hi guys, Had an interesting experience on the way to work this morning. My morning commute consists of mostly highway. I was driving in 5th gear at ~75-80 (15/41 gearing) and I got a quick choke on the engine, as if I was outta gas. Nothing huge, just a slowdown for a second. Now I'm still on the highway and everything seems fine afterwards but about two minutes later, I'm starting to see a bit of traffic ahead. Naturally I let off the throttle a little, but the RPMs stay very high, despite the throttle closing. Downshift and now the RPMs are even higher (as if I was on the throttle). At this point I pulled in the clutch, let totally off the throttle. The clutch works fine as all power was taken off the drive, but those RPMs didn't go anywhere. I've had a stuck throttle cable before and this does not seem to be the problem (from a quick glance). The throttle returns to its closed position no problem, but the engine is still revving at quite high RPMs no matter what. Relatively new (<6mo old Motion Pro) throttle cable that was properly lubed. Luckily I was able to get to work just fine, but upon turning everything off and restarting, same problem. Throttle seems to be stuck open and I have no idea what direction to go in. When the bike is off and I pull the throttle then release, I'm pretty sure I can hear the click of it closing completely, so I'm dumbfounded on this one. Apologies in advance because I'm at work and only have absolute basic tools on me, and can't get to the carb right now (also time restricted). FWIW, I can rev the bike higher than where it is stuck, but it will not go below a certain point. Like I said, throttle cable seems to return just fine, but it is definitely stuck open (maybe just the port on the throttle or something? maybe one of the springs? maybe jetting needle is fooked?) Thanks in advance, looks like I'm out of action for at least the next couple days
  21. Hey TT, I just got 2005 DRZ400E. It didn't come with any manuals that's why I'm asking fellow DRZ owners for some help. Please bear with me if I'm asking obvious and or lame questions, it's my first bike . I'm in Colorado @5280' plan to take it to higher elevations. My riding will be some pavement and the rest FSR's, maybe some super easy single tracks initially. I plan to plate it. What manual, including repair manual, can be recommended? Anything available to download? I found a manual on DRZ400E.com but it seems to be for the S model and not the E. What gas should I use? It's a higher compression motor and I believe the manual calls for 91. Although, would it be different at a higher altitude? What oil and filter should I use? How ofter should I be changing oil? What air filter and sealant is recommended? What hand guards do you recommend? Integrated turn signals might be nice but not a deal breaker Skid/bash plate. Security. It's stored in the garage most of the time but I might need some extra security when I travel. Here are some things I thing might be useful. Any thoughts? Front disk break lock with alarm Heavy duty chain and a lock Speedometer. It just came with a trip meter. What break fluid can be used? What coolant should I user? Any cool taillight hubs? Front and rear tires. I'm thinking of getting Kenda Trackmaster II K760 as they appear to be a good bang for the buck. Are Dunlop D606 that much better as the price suggests? Mirrors. Something neat would be nice.
  22. Hey all when i open the throttle up on the DR it makes a ticking noise ive changed oil about 300KM ago and it has the automatic timing chain adjuster so im not really sure what the noise could be. i haven't really had my DRZ for too long so im not sure if they just have a loud engine or something but theres no issues in its performance or anything but the ticking is getting lowder slowly Thanks
  23. Looking for info on an H4 LED bulb replacement. I'm not looking to use the 4x6 headlights many have used. I'll be doing the KLX450 headlight/fairing mod. Looks like eBay has a bunch of options, but to use with stock DRZ wiring what wattage/specs am I looking for? Anyone had success/nightmares? Looking at something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-H4-6500K-COB-LED-Motorcycle-Hi-Lo-Fog-Lamp-Headlight-Bulb-For-Moto-RH/292243629220?hash=item440b13e4a4:g:mxwAAOSwJ~RZsOJ4&vxp=mtr
  24. I just bought a new DRZ400, and am hoping to remove the passenger pegs. I've seen on the forums that there used to be a part you could get to attach the exhaust in place of the peg mount, but I can't seem to find anywhere that carries it now. Are there any good options that don't require modification? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  25. Hey, new member here looking for opinions I have about 8k miles on my 2015 DRZ400sm. I was riding about 80mph and felt a momentary loss of power, dropped off the throttle and it felt ok. At the next stop i could here top end noise like the piston was tapping so i tore it apart and found: The upper piston ring was ok, the lower was stuck in the groove (flush with the piston ) and unable to move around the piston. there was scuffing on both intake and exhaust side of the jug and piston. Before tearing apart i did a leakdown and could hear air from exhaust and from down by the timing chain. I will try to post pic and video with this post Bike was running great then had started puffing smoke when i get on it quick, and the idle would fluctuate a good bit 2015 DRZ- 3x3, k&n filter, FCR39 (with eddie mod) DRZ E airbox boot and exhaust header with drilled out stock SM muffler with "power tip"
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