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  1. Thanks for visiting my 2001 Suzuki DRZ400e resto/build thread. I picked up my DRZ this past summer shortly before getting my endorsement. I have plenty of off-roading and wrenching experience although it’s all been focused on 4x4’s and mountain bikes. A couple buddies and I all picked up project (of varying degrees) dual sports with hopes of exploring the northern Colorado national forests and good old adventure on 2 wheels. The previous owner of this bike only had it for a short period of time and didn’t have much history on it. It came with studded tires, a worn out ACCT, and running pretty lean. This thread will document my resto/build with the intent of 25% street/commuting, 50% forest service road exploring, and 25% enduro-type trails. Here is a list of items I addressed shortly after acquiring the bike: Tusk Motorcycle Enduro Lighting kit (bike is now titled and plated in CO) New disc brake pads Oil and filter change New Tires… Kenda K760 Trakmaster II rear, Pirelli MT21 front All Balls Wheel Bearing kits (front & Rear) New foam air filter (Tusk) New Tusk valve cover gasket Thumpertalk MCCT Pigtail for trickle charger Checked valve clearance (all in tolerance) A few other upgrades/mod’s that I can see have already been added: Scott’s triple clamp Air box has been opened up Auxillary CPU fan on radiator Radiator guard (not sure on brand) Factory Effex seat (not sure if this is an upgrade) Skidplate Over the next couple weeks I plan to begin disassembling the bike down to the frame and here are the planned upgrade/maintenance items I plan to address (depending on funding) before the spring riding season: IMS 4.0 Tank Seat Concepts saddle (foam kit) Tusk D Flex pro hand guards ProGrip 714 grips LED low/high beam upgrades with a customer headlight housing Ram Mount Spring grip (iphone) New plastics for front/rear fender and side panels (black) De-rust stock exhaust and paint black Service swingarm bearings Gather a tool kit, first aide kit, and spare parts kit Wider ebay pedals Trackside 12v adapter to cockpit Paint the frame (reading lots on paint vs powdercoat) Polish wheels / de-rust spokes Check jetting in carb… add JD Jet Kit as necessary Thumpertalk case savers… may need to replace case on right side (damaged) Smooth the back of the shifter near the folding tip it has kind of a sharp edge that can still damage thru the case saver Delete clutch and stand switches Free Power Mod Go through wiring harness and shorten/clean up/re-do connections/silicone grease in every electrical connector New Drive chain and sprocket(s)… still researching desired gearing (recommendations welcome) Flush brake fluid Flush radiator fluid Maintain / tune suspension as needed I would love for you all to join me on this journey and add your recommendations/opinions on upgrades, personal experience, alternative brands, things I’ve missed, etc. I will be taking my time to post details on the upgrades I’m making along the way although I’m not bringing innovation to what you all have already accomplished. Thanks again and I look forward to learning from and sharing with this community as I go!
  2. Hey TT, I just got 2005 DRZ400E. It didn't come with any manuals that's why I'm asking fellow DRZ owners for some help. Please bear with me if I'm asking obvious and or lame questions, it's my first bike . I'm in Colorado @5280' plan to take it to higher elevations. My riding will be some pavement and the rest FSR's, maybe some super easy single tracks initially. I plan to plate it. What manual, including repair manual, can be recommended? Anything available to download? I found a manual on DRZ400E.com but it seems to be for the S model and not the E. What gas should I use? It's a higher compression motor and I believe the manual calls for 91. Although, would it be different at a higher altitude? What oil and filter should I use? How ofter should I be changing oil? What air filter and sealant is recommended? What hand guards do you recommend? Integrated turn signals might be nice but not a deal breaker Skid/bash plate. Security. It's stored in the garage most of the time but I might need some extra security when I travel. Here are some things I thing might be useful. Any thoughts? Front disk break lock with alarm Heavy duty chain and a lock Speedometer. It just came with a trip meter. What break fluid can be used? What coolant should I user? Any cool taillight hubs? Front and rear tires. I'm thinking of getting Kenda Trackmaster II K760 as they appear to be a good bang for the buck. Are Dunlop D606 that much better as the price suggests? Mirrors. Something neat would be nice.
  3. Hey, new member here looking for opinions I have about 8k miles on my 2015 DRZ400sm. I was riding about 80mph and felt a momentary loss of power, dropped off the throttle and it felt ok. At the next stop i could here top end noise like the piston was tapping so i tore it apart and found: The upper piston ring was ok, the lower was stuck in the groove (flush with the piston ) and unable to move around the piston. there was scuffing on both intake and exhaust side of the jug and piston. Before tearing apart i did a leakdown and could hear air from exhaust and from down by the timing chain. I will try to post pic and video with this post Bike was running great then had started puffing smoke when i get on it quick, and the idle would fluctuate a good bit 2015 DRZ- 3x3, k&n filter, FCR39 (with eddie mod) DRZ E airbox boot and exhaust header with drilled out stock SM muffler with "power tip"
  4. Hey guys, first post so please bare with me. After a cheeky 3 month licence suspension, I'm back on the road. However after blowing the dust off the old girl and running her in the garage for a few minutes, the bike died followed immediately by a loud noise. After trying to start it back up, it would just click and could hear the starter motor trying it turn over. I ended up taking the stator cover off to find small metal fillings around the torque limiters gear plates (from the side walls of the housing). I've double checked all bushings and washers, all intact and not worn. Running the stater with the case off, it's obvious the torque limiter is somehow off balance as leans to the side and just gets caught against the sides of the casing. It's the same even with all bolts and washers installed and tightened. I'm completely baffled and not sure where to start looking for the cause. If anyone has had this problem or has some advice you'd be a life saver. Happy to post a video or picture of it if that will help.
  5. I have done some research and I can not find any answers so I am asking if any of you have an idea. This past weekend I went out to the sand dunes for Easter weekend and I threw a paddle on my Drz and went out. I got plenty of riding in and was pushing the bike pretty hard the whole time and it was running like a champ. On the final day we were going out for the last ride we came to a pretty steep hill and as I started riding up it the bike started cutting out really hard and it sounded like the piston was having a hard time trucking along so I dropped a gear because I was loosing speed and hit the throttle harder thinking that because I was low in rpm's it was doing that. When I did that it started cutting out worse and sounded like it was having an even harder time so I turned around and made it to the bottom. When I reached the bottom and put in neutral it abruptly cut out so I checked my gas and I still had half a tank so I tried starting it again and it absolutely refused to start with my electric start until the battery died then would not start after 15 minutes of kick starting. So my question is are these signs of a possible blown engine? and if so where do I start to look? I am pretty mechanically inclined and will be doing a complete engine tear down this weekend but any advice will be very helpful.
  6. Hi All, Rode the new to me DRZ400e (2001) this weekend. In the woods. What a kick. I can understand why these things have a following. I have a question, that may be answered somewhere in the forum but I have not found it. I have this issue where if put the engine under a load between 1/4 to probably 1/2 throttle . . . like climbing a hill . . . . when I chop the throttle at the top, it pops and it will stall if I do not gas it. Does not happen so much WOT, like getting gears down a sandy straight. So I have a lean condition caused by something . . . . - Not the pilot jet or fuel screw as far as I have read . . this bike will start with no choke . . . so if anything I am borderline rich there - it will do the lean bog when cold. I have not noticed it so much after engine gets to operating temp. So it seems like the AP is functional. - my two stroke experience tells me raise the jet needle . . . but but not so fast . . . . . . . . . could it be the "coast enricher"? Understand, I have not looked inside this carb yet, I am looking for a place to start. The machine still has the snorkel. I would like to get it back to baseline . . . . . and maybe leave it there for a while. So my questions are - would raising the jet needle a notch be a good starting point? I assume it is on notch 3 . . . . . . . - what could go wrong with the coast thing? . . . I have seen other posts where people put these in the parts bin . . . . . and change pilot jets. But why would the factory not have done this in the first place? - what is an EMM jet needle? I have seen these mentioned. Any guidance appreciated. Thanks
  7. I bought a drz400 in pieces but the motor was assembled just put the wiring harness and all those goodies back on. Timed it to Front exhaust cam to 2 and the rear intake to 3. 15 pins in between and to TDC. I went to fire the bike its got a new jug, new rings, new piston. It will pop and shoot flames when it has compression but sometimes it’ll just spin freely with no compression sounds. if i keep winding on the starter it gains and looses compression over a certain amount of time. For 10 seconds winding the starter it’ll have compression, the next 10 seconds it wont have compression while winding the starter. Its very weird ive never seen anything like it. I hate to take it to a shop, i do everything myself. Thanks.
  8. Hey guys and gals, I've been trying to pin down a problem for a few weeks now with no success. I've read countless forum posts to no avail so here I am. This post will be a bit long but I want to provide as much info as possible as this has me stumped. I have a 2005 DRZ400e. Mostly stock besides the 'free power' mod and the previous owner opening up the airbox and drilling some holes in the stock exhaust to open it up (and make it way too loud). When I bought this bike last year it ran flawlessly. The day after I bought it I left on a two week adventure through far north Australia. Unfortunately the stator was toast, but I luckily had a starter pack that got me through the trip. Other than that it was mechanically solid. After arriving home I let it sit for a few weeks and after that the damn thing just wouldn't start. I got the stator professionally rewound and had them check compression for me. Low and behold the compression was terrible, so I pulled the top end apart and found that the piston rings were absolutely embedded in their grooves. I assume this could be the result of overheating, as without a working stator I was leaving the bike running as much possible. It took a lot of persuading and hot water to get them unstuck before replacing them, but the piston and cylinder looked absolutely fine. So after this the bike started up straight away but wasn't holding idle. Knowing that I'd need to clean the carb I decided to purchase a carb rebuild kit along with a JD Jetting kit. Unfortunately my compressor has broken, but I was as through as possible trying to clean out all the circuits and replacing the clogged jets with the new ones in the kit as well as replacing all the O-rings and gaskets. Currently my carb settings are as follows: Float hight 9mm Main Jet 155 (142 is stock) Pilot jet 45 (stock) Pilot air jet 60 (stock) Mixture screw at 2.5 turns And I'm using the JD blue needle on the 4th notch as suggested by the instructions. Now after doing all of this the bike starts up perfectly and runs great at low speed but has a very weird problem. When I accelerate in any gear through around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the bike falls flat on its face. It doesn't backfire, but it feels like it is starved for fuel and misses considerably until it gets to a higher Rpm and then it takes off like a rocket again. Never experienced anything like it before and the bike is unfortunately unridable because of it. Here is a list of things that I have tested: Petcock flows fuel fine Replaced fuel with a fresh tank Checked for air leaks - no change Rode with choke on - no change/ worse Rode with airbox cover off - no change Disconnected RR - no change Disconnected TPS - no change I'm really running out of ideas here. I need to test if putting the original needle back in changes anything, but that will probably have to wait until next week. A few other notes: My battery is pretty much shot. It has enough juice to start the bike a few times but that's it. Is it possible for a dodgy battery to cause these sort of problems? I was under the impression that the bike gets its juice from the stator once running. The mixture screw does not seem to do a whole lot. The bike will idle with the mixture screw all the way in, and will still idle with it out 3 turns. This doesn't seem right. I have an extended mixture screw on the way so that I can test it a bit easier. I would appreciate any input as I am grasping at straws here. Thanks in advance, Jet
  9. Was inspecting a head on a newly acquired bike i gotten in a trade. Everything was up to par until reassembly. My buddy told me the bolt was to be torqued to 7 ftlbs which was correct but the bolt snapped off into the cylinder. Its the 2 side bolts on the right side that go down into the engine. One is torqued to 7 the other is broke off. Is this going to be okay to run my bike with just need opinions. Do not have smart remarks please. I just want some advice on what i should do or if you think it will be okay. Thanks!
  10. My carb was leaking from what I deduced was the top cap gasket so I went to my local shop to get a new one. Of course they don't have it in stock but the guy suggests just slapping on gasket dressing/sealant and I'm in no position to argue since I'm both cheap and the opposite of knowledgeable when it comes to bike carbs. Two days later and it's still tacky (in appearance) and to the touch. I'm not sure if I should call it quits and put an actual gasket on or wait it out. Or really even if it was a viable alternative to begin with. Any guidance is appreciated. Side note: the tube says it's fuel resistant and good to 500°. Not sure how much pressure a bike carb is subject to though.
  11. Hello all! My name is Miles and I need some help gauging what to expect for condition/"reliability" you could say, of my DRZ400E for cross country travel! I am looking into traveling the Trans America Trail. I'm from Rhode Island and found an alternate rout where I can start on the West border of Connecticut. Ending in Colorado, to Nevada, then California; and cruising something along the lines of RT66 back. [just for reference, don't mean to ramble] The Machine: 2003 DRZ400-E ~6k miles total - 5k lightly ridden, never seen dirt - 0.8k %100 hard off road [past year] Frequent Oil changes, Air Filter changes {I ride with the guy I purchased it from nearly daily. He was good about maintenance on the regular, but also pushe the bike in the woods just as much!} Front and Rear Suspension rebuilt, carburetor rebuilt all last year Stock everything except FMF power bomb header and exhaust muffler, and Vapor Trail Tech, lights + fork socks Expected Maintenance: Top End Rebuild, Timing, Valves adjusted [Have not done compression test, but i would expect new top to be necessary] obvious things such as Brake Pads, Fluids, Chain/Sprockets, Tries, Heavy Tubes From this information, And Any You Can Think Of To Ask, does this DRZ have potential for the Trans America Trail; a ~6'000 dirt, then ~4,000 road return trip?! Or would I be better off selling it for a newer model? Thanks! -Miles
  12. Hi guys, Long time reader, first time poster here! So after I made a capital mistake selling my beloved DRZ400SM about a year ago, I have decided to get me another one. However, this time around, my intend is to use the machine for trail riding and what we Germans call "Endurowandern" (= Enduro hiking) - which is ironic because it is mostly forbidden in our country. Anyway, I was all but set to purchase a 400S, when I learned about the E version with more aggressive fuelling and overall more power. Unfortunately, these things are incredibly difficult to come by, so I am looking at anything that resembles an E - which brings me to my question: Close to where I live (East Germany) a DRZ400 Y (E) is available. Other than the kicker, is there anything that is vastly different compared to the later models? I thought I heard somewhere that the adjustable suspension was only offered from 2002 onwards?! Also, is there any difference in noise? I know this question might sound weird, but since I will be driving through forests etc., I would like to keep the sound level to a minimum. Looking forward to your replies! Thanks a lot, Chimp
  13. I had a drz400e with a great motor but I wanted it to be street legal (in Florida there's no way to make it street legal unless it comes that way from the factory). I bought a drz400s really cheap because it had s lot of miles and I swapped the motors. I got my E motor running just fine with the S wiring harness (thanks to previous posts in this forum), but I'm not getting any spark on the S motor with the E harness (it has the S cdi). Any ideas? I know my neutral switch isn't connected to anything, is that the problem?
  14. I have a drz 400 s speedometer/odometer does anybody know how or if I can install this on my 2001 drz 400 E?
  15. Hi guys, My problem started with this: I went for a quick ride for learning wheelies. The bike was running good for the whole time then I stopped for a little break. After that when I wanted to start the bike it but wouldn't start. The starter motor cranked but nothing happened. After a few tries I noticed that when I pushed the starter button a slight smoke(wich smelled like burnt plastic) came from the bottom of the fuel tank. Ok I tought it is a short so I pushed the bike home instead of trying it more times. Next day I pulled off the fuel tank and checked for burnt cables. I found out that the ground wire which is fixed under the ignition coil burnt down. I replaced it and tried to start the bike. When I started it the replaced wire started to get hot instantly. Ok, I tought it will be something else. I searched for anything else. I found that the ground wire which comes directly from the battery came off from the frame. I screwed back to the frame. After I tried to start again, the ignition coil ground wire didn't got hot that time but it didn't do a single spark. So i tried several thing in the last few weeks. I bought a new ignition coil, hired my friends working CDI and tested with is, bought a new aftermarket stator(Electrex, wich is english made), took apart the whole wiring harness looking for a burnt wire and checked all of the plugs for burning or someting that is not correct. All of these seems to be okay so now I'm clueless what it can be. The bike is a 2005 E model which is converted into an SM. It has an SM wiring harness with some modifications(side stand switch bypassed, clutch switch bypassed, horn, fan and neutral switch plugs not used).
  16. Hi I’m new here on thumpertalk and this will be my first post. So I just purchased a 2002 Suzuki drz400s that was converted to a supermoto. I’m currently looking to replace the tires with a set of pirelli diablo rosso 2. The bike currently has sm wheels off of another bike with a 110/70/17 front tire and a 140/70/17 rear tire. I’ve looked at all the post related to this topic but none related directly to the s model. My question is can I run a 120/70/17 front and 150/60/17 rear tire on the sm rims without running into rubbing issues? Keep in mind I have the s model drz400 and I’ve heard the swingarms are different. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  17. I've decided to attempt the mid-body gasket replacement on my vintage 2000 slant FCR carb, stock on the DRZ 400 E. If you are like me you have scoured the forums for info on doing this service but found maybe 2 or 3 pictures of a taken apart FCR, dead end threads, and tons of negativity. BUT! Is it really that difficult of a repair to perform correctly? Well I have had my carb on and off at least a dozen times, trying different jets, cleaning, etc. For the last 3 years I've been getting by with the coast enrichener circuit bypassed to at least get enough fuel in the idle circuit to run ok. But it just wasn't working anymore. I could clean the carb out and get it to run for a little while, but after sitting it wouldn't start again. I tried ordering a refurb FCR-MX over a week ago and the guy has gone MIA and nothing shipped. I ordered from keihin-fcr.com. I would advise avoiding... But will update if I hear back and he has a decent reason for the delay. Anyways, it made me seriously look into the "unserviceable" midbody gasket. I mean, you can buy the gasket here: https://www.ebay.com/i/401380298480?chn=ps So today I ripped the carb apart again, but this time to the very last fastener, separating the carb bodies. I even found my smoking gun, in the one picture with the hoop thingy removed you can see the gasket has expanded and spilled into a passageway. This passageway leads directly to the pilot jet, blocking it's flow. Though as you can see every rubber piece inside is completely trashed. Which makes sense, do you really expect these gaskets to last 20 years? Or in this case 18? If you have taken apart your FCR and went, wow that fuel bowl gasket is recked yo! I need a new one! Well you can bet your mid-body gasket looks the same. Really I see no reason I couldn't get this sealed back up with a new gasket and some fuel-proof RTV to replace the epoxy seal around the edge. Why wouldn't it work? Just doesn't make sense to me all the negativity you find toward this repair.... But I haven't finished yet so who knows if it will actually work on the bike. But I think it'll run like new when I'm done. I hope it works out for me and I can inspire some others who would otherwise be forced to buy an 800 dollar carb to do this repair instead. Wish me luck!
  18. 2001 DRZ400E. Purchased a warp 9 elite supermoto wheelset from ebay (link below) that claims to fit my E model. However the 320mm rotor is rubbing on my caliper and causing uneven wear, hot pads, and pulsating brake feel while stopping at low speeds. The wheel also only spins freely while off the ground for about 2 seconds before stopping due to friction. The wheel also does not sit centered in the forks despite my best efforts. do i have the wrong relocator bracket? wrong spacers? completely wrong front wheel? Im using a zeta speedo eliminator (pictured) and stock drz400e front wheel spacer in the other side (pictured). My relocator bracket came with this kit. I have tried contacting the seller but no answer and i wanna ride! Any help would be much appreciated. Lots of pictures so you know what im working with.. and a few extra just in case your curious what she looks like 🙂 The main thing that bugs me is that not only is my rotor too close to the caliper on the left side, but the wheel appears to be too close to right fork..... ebay link for the wheels that claim to bolt right up page =http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERMOTO-17-WHEELS-WITH-TIRES-DRZ-400-GOLD-HUB-BLACK-RIM-OVERSIZED-ROTOR/332115498083?_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3D5d4fe6e955a8419e94f65003ca1b33e0%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D332115498083 description =http://vi.vipr.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=332115498083&t=1491662847000&tid=10&category=21669&seller=moto-x-industries&excSoj=1&excTrk=1&lsite=100&ittenable=false&domain=ebay.com&descgauge=1&cspheader=1
  19. I have a 2000 DRZ 400E. I got the bike after it sat for a few years. Since i have had it i rebuilt the carb, meaning i took it completely apart, cleaned the bad gas out and replaced anything rubber that needed it. I also cleaned out the gas tank as it had rotten fuel in it. I set the air fuel screw to the factory setting since it was a little off, but i don't think i messed with the idle position. I have also changed the coolant, oil, and the battery. the bike now runs and i have been riding it every day for a couple weeks so far to bring it back to life. my issue is that the bike won't run unless the choke is out. once it is hot it will continue to run without an issue as long as the choke stays out. when i push the choke in the bike bogs down and dies, no matter what i do with the throttle. i have tried to adjust the idle but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Once it gets all the way up to temp the choke button goes in by itself so i haven't had the chance to ride more than 10 min or so at a time without fighting it. I've just about scratched a hole in my head trying to figure out if i did something wrong and how i can fix it. I think i'm capable enough to fix it mechanically and am too stubborn to take it to a dealer, even though that is where it might end up soon
  20. Hey there guys! I'm having a little trouble finding the correct info. I have a 2010 Aussie 'E'. Looking at replacement levers (but not keen on spending $200 for a set of Zeta's) All of the ones I can find only specify that the fit the S/SM variant. I know the S is street legal in the US, (we don't have them here). Are the perches and layout the same between the S/E version? I was looking at something el' Cheapo like these; https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/CNC-Dirt-Bike-Pivot-Brake-Clutch-Levers-For-SUZUKI-DRZ400S-SM-2000-2013-Gold/322443621844?hash=item4b132335d4:g:IKUAAOSwA3dYJZQ~
  21. Just got myself a Stock DRZ400E, any suggestions on how i can make my bike look better? i was thinking of going predominantly black, gold and a little white.
  22. Hey guys, loving this forum, Ive been reading alot and created an account today! I got myself a pretty much sock 2010 DRZ400E, Im in the middle of converting it to a motard (using CBR250R wheels) so i can easily swap between road and dirt. I would love any suggestions from you guys on what i can do it my bike to make it look, sound and run better. I dont have the largest budget, but i really want to get into doing things myself, i have quite a few tools through work already, but i am very pretty amateur in the world of bikes. I was thinking of getting a Yoshi pipe (i like deep sounding bikes), new plastics, some stickers, bling kit and might spray paint my new wheels gold (myself properly). I think i want my bike primarily black and gold. No idea in the way of power mods yet. What would you guys to do this bike? and where can i buy the materials cheap and easily?
  23. Hi everyone, I recently purchased a 2010 Suzuki DRZ400E and am in love. The bike is awesome and rides like a dream. It has one issue though. Sometimes the Headlight does not come on at all (High or Low beam) but the blue Headlight indicator on the instrument panel is permanently on (even when switch between High to Low beam). When the Headlight works normally, the blue Headlight indicator on the instrument panel works as it should as well, only coming on when High Beam is selected. The issue randomly sorts itself out from time to time. However it's quite odd and makes evening / night rides impossible. Have any of you legends come across this issue or know what it is and what needs to be done to fix? Thanks in advance.
  24. Now that I am rebuilding my 2001 DRZ400S due to a crash.. I want to be sure that when it happens again the bike will not be completely totaled. I cannot find any axle sliders for it because it does not have hollow axles. The only thing I have been able to find are engine guards that mount to the frame so I will for sure be getting those. So I just have questions on how to get axle sliders mounted on my bike, and I also will probably be getting a handbrake sometime in the near future. Would I be better off just swapping to an SM swingarm? I wish there was a document listing all the spec differences between the SM and S models. Any help would be great. Best regards.
  25. Hey guys. First time posting but always use the great nfo on the this page. I crashed my drz about 2 years ago and I didn't notice any physical damage except a bent handlebar and some scratches. Didn't ride it again as I moved countries for 2 years. Just got back and wanted to get it started again. Did an oil change, changed handle bars, changed the battery, got most of the old fuel out (I think) and refueled it. Started it up no problem with the choke and it sounded fine. However it would stall if i took the choke off or tried to use the throttle. So i let it warm up for a bit. Come back to the bike and it's shooting out coolant and steam from the bottom hose of the bike. Changed the coolant thinking it may be old coolant. Now I'm scared to let it run for a while to see if it will overheat again. Still the same problem with the choke and throttle. Anyone have an idea of the problem? Cheers
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