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Found 58 results

  1. I have been researching light upgrades for my DRZ400s. I am still a little confused in regards to the smartest most efficient upgrade process. I want more road visibility at night, at least double the stock configuration (I make due fine with the stock setup now). I rate my current factory headlight output at a 5/10 satisfaction, I would be happy with a 7/10, 8/10 would be perfect. I figure these are my options from easiest to most involved: 1. Replace the factory bulb with a better quality H4 Halogen bulb: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83140101-12V-Halogen-Bulb/dp/B000CO7NGI 2. Replace the factory bulb with a H4 LED Upgrade kit: https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html or https://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Fluxbeam-Headlight-Clear-Arc-Beam/dp/B00VNBEJ1G or http://www.jnsengineering.com/product/suzuki-dr650-drz400-led-headlight-kit/ 3. Replace the entire headlight housing unit: http://www.dualsportarmory.com/products/rally-light-trail-tech-8-race-light-w-h4-bulb-ballast-plat-brake-line-clamp.html 4. Or then then there's this option which I like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018V7GXCW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A33Q7YWPTF2HR0&th=1#customerReviews But, is it easy to hook these external LED's up to my electrical system? And will they just be ON all the time? Or will they have an on/off function, how will that operate? I'm very confused on the best way to improve my night time driving lighting. I would very much appreciate some feedback from people. Budget isn't an issue, the cleanest, most efficient light upgrade is my main goal. Thanks in advance for replies.
  2. Hi everyone, I have a 03 DRZ-400s, and since ive bought it ive had the same problem after many tries and successes at fixing. Basically when ever it feels like it(it has to be cold) it will decide not to start and will most of the time just let out huge ass backfire 3 or 4 times while trying to start her. I have cleaned out my carb about 8 times now, with 2 different bike "experts helping me". It seems as if everytime i clean the carb it will the work- sometimes for months and sometimes only for hours and then BACK to the original issue of not starting and only backfiring... (when she does run though she runs beautifully and when trying to start her IF she doesnt backfire she will start on first swing everytime.) I have checked valve clearances and are within tolerances. ANY SUGGESTIONS??
  3. Hello all, i just purchased. A new DRZ 400S yesterday from Johnson county Suzuki in Burleson Texas. Excellent people to work with and they know how to treat a customer right. I will pick up my new toy tomorrow and waned to get some good advice from th forum experts on some topics I want to know more about. I have been reading up for a few weeks so I have already learned a lot. When I got home yesterday I ordered a set of case savers and RTV to install these as soon as I get it home. Now I have some questions on the skid plate. What skid plate is recommended for this bike or is the factory skid plate enough? There seems to be less exposed to than on my 2013 CRF450x had. Is there a brand or design that s best that won't interfere with later pipe or muffler change outs? Hand guards? Any preference? How do the cheap ones last compared to the $75 type. I have used th cheap ones before, but not the expensive ones. What about the rack? What rack is favored? I won't be hauling a mountain of stuff like I see some of the r gulags on this site, but it will be hand to haul my cooler or jacket or v n metal detector. THis is us all of th questions for now. I hope you have time for some good advise for me. Thanks
  4. Got a 2005 DR-Z400S with only 2500miles on it a couple of days ago. It's in really good condition appearance wise and runs fine for the most part, has supposedly been sitting barely used for a few years. Will run fine for several miles at a time, but will suddenly begin surging and stuttering, as if throttle is cutting out momentarily, then if I release the throttle the engine usually just dies and refuses to start up without dying again within a few seconds. If it's sitting idle at the time the problem occurs, I can hear the engine begin to drop revs and sound less consistent, then it usually dies after about 10 seconds even if I try to keep the revs high. While this is going on the throttle also feels less responsive. If I then just wait at the side of the road for about 5 minutes, it'll usually then start right up first time and I'll be on my way for another couple of miles until it happens again. The distance I've managed between compulsory stops has varied between about one mile and ten miles. It's happened when the bike's idle and when I've been doing 70mph on the motorway, which was great fun. Any thoughts on what the culprit could be? Thanks a lot
  5. I just bought a 2002 drz400s with 10,000 miles on it. When I picked it up I only took a quick spin around a parking lot , not enough to notice any of the things I notice now. It had been sitting a while before I bought it (I bought it from a shop) so before the owner would sell it to me he took the carb all apart and cleaned it out. When I got it home, I put some new fuel in it and fired it up, it seemed like the idle adjustment was quite high. I backed that down a bit and it seemed to run ok for a little while. (bike hasn't even been running 30 minutes total since I bought it last week) now I notice the beginning throttle delivery seems very jerky and it seems like the bike is struggling early on and then gets better higher in the RPMs. I mistakenly left the petcock on prime the night I brought it home and had to change my oil today because I could smell gas had gotten into it(first time drz owner...lesson learned.) So I put mobile 1 20w-50 in it and a new filter and started it up to take it for a spin. It starts ok (not great), idles high on half and full choke as expected and then when off choke it has a kinda rough idle and if I blip the throttle half of the time it will just shut off. I don't want to turn this into an oil thread but is it possible 20w-50 is too heavy for the 50 degree temps outside? I know there is a vast amount of drz knowledge on this site so what do you guys think about whats going on? It has a stock exhaust, no 3x3 and as far as I know stock jetting, filter looks good (I am going to pull it and clean it anyway) and I'm about 500ft above sea level. Hopefully this info will help the drz gurus make some suggestions. Like I said this is my first drz so maybe the kinda instant jerk followed by seemingly lagging power delivery is normal for these, but coming off of any other bike I have ever ridden it seems a little strange to me.
  6. I got a fcr39 recently and bought a adapter kit off ebay. The air box adapter however looks like its a little off and some of the o ring is exposed, as seen in the attached photo. Think this will be a problem or should i ignore it. Was also considering just putting some sealant over it. Thanks.
  7. Hey guys, had this 2001 Suzuki DRZ400S for a while now and have close to 40k miles on it. It has been running great as far as I can tell, but yesterday I went out on a ride and I was told by 2 different people that my valves need to be adjusted. Is it possible that they could be able to tell just by hearing my bike idle? I was told by another shop that he looked at the valves and they looked fine. Anything else it could be? Here's a video of my bike idling, any help is appreciated!
  8. Hey Guys! I'm brand new here (and to riding in general!) so if i'm breaking the rules or if there's a sticky i should have read, Sorry!! Just tell me where I need to go! If not, I'm looking at a 2008 DRZ-400SM with about 20k miles on it, and the guy wants $3699 for it. Actually it's a powersports dealer (good or bad??) that seems to have a good reputation around here and it comes with a 12 month/unlimited miles, limited warranty (no idea what the fine print says). It's just impossible to find a used DRZ400! I want one to take offroad and i've read you can swap the wheels really easily, plus i'm just starting to ride so maybe it'd be a good bike to learn on? Correct me if i'm wrong! Any help you got!
  9. I'm getting my bike ready to run a big chunk of the Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route (OBDR) this summer so I'm going through it adding things I think will help bulletproof the bike and maybe keep me from having "issues" when I'm 100 miles from nowhere in the middle of the desert in Eastern Oregon. What I hate is that since these products are made for such a niche market the prices are just ridiculous. So in that vein, here's another $89 worth of aluminum...sigh... One thing I've noticed online is that there is sometimes a lack of good clear pictures or videos on specific parts for the DR-Z, so I try to rectify that with my videos. (aka: I use a tripod as much as possible...lol...)
  10. I have my 2001 DRZ400S I have converted to a supermoto, and now I want to start doing performance mods. I want to do the 3X3 mod, along with a jet kit, and a pipe. As of now my personal choice is going to be the Yoshi RS2 Full system, a Dynojet jet kit, and a K&N filter for the 3X3. I am posting this to see if anyone would disagree with this setup, or have any recommendations on what might be better or worth doing along the way. (I do not want to wait 4 weeks for the MRD exhaust or I would go that route) Any comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated, Going to do this in about one week. Thank you, Brad
  11. Hello guys, New rider, 6.5ft tall, 100kg weight, looking for a capable dual sport bike to go wherever I want with. After a lot of searching I think these two bikes are most likely suits my needs. What do you think? which one is better for me? your recommendations ?
  12. I've been riding my 2002 400s with stock 15/44 gearing for a while now. Unfortunately I find myself having to do a lot more highway than I would like to, to get to where I want to ride the dirt. I'm building the bike into a light adventure bike and I don't ride any super technical trails (I don't want to completely lose that ability though) but I do like some so-cal mountain trails. I anticipate a lot more highway miles in the future in order to reach the trails I'd like to ride, also meaning I'll be adding a little weight, camping gear etc.( I am a 150lb rider) I saw a 43t rear sprocket available, would 15/43 make any noticeable difference in my highway rpms (65-75) and how much damage would it do to my abilities on the trail. I would also like to know the same for 15/41 and if anyone can let me know what changes in chain would need to be made. This will be my first time experimenting with a gearing change on any bike that I have owned. Bike has 3/3 mod done, stock exhaust and a JD Jet Kit.
  13. Just finished reassembling my 07 drz400s. i completely tore down the engine and replaced the transmission gears with the ACT wide ratio ones (first time stripping an engine totally down and reassembling it). after reassembly and running the first few times i noticed two things 1st. the engine seams to shake more than it used to however currently my top engine hanger is not installed completely because i broke the two upper bolts/nuts that attach it to the frame☹️ i assume its that but the only other thing worth noting is i lightly tapped the end of of the crankshaft with a mallet twice before learning you're not supposed to do that, but it was quite light and i didnt think it would have caused any damage. 2nd. there seems to be a tick of some sort coming from the engine after it reaches operating temp i double checked the valve train and the timing and clearances are still in spec, i know the drz400s are loud engines but i dont feel like the tick was there before. perhaps im just over thinking both these things but after having spent so much time and money i wanted to get some more opinions since im pretty inexperienced. so i suppose what im asking is: is the tick something i need to be worried about? and is the engine hanger the cause of the extra shake, or is it possible i messed up the crankshaft with the 2 light taps?
  14. First off, just wanted to say that I've searched for my particular issue beforehand. Didn't see anything posted quite like it. So here I am. 2013 DRZ-400S/SM Conversion. Not sure whats going on. Recently moved to Michigan from Cali in November 2019. Bike ran perfect before the move. Its only got 3700 miles on it. Oil was changed after installing a Q4/Powerbomb, FCR39, and installing stage 2 cams. Although I did switch one of the cams back to stock. Can't remember which though (pretty sure it was the intake). I know I'm supposed to change the oil again after 500 miles with the new cam/s but I had only put on around 375 miles before it starting smoking in the front. I also had the headers wrapped for some ungodly reason (not gunna lie I actually really digged the look). Replaced coolant/oil when I put in the cams. Coolant is still topped up. Just drained oil, doesnt really look/smell like any coolant is in it. Tried smelling the coolant but since ive got oil all over me I cant really tell. Reservoir is clean, no oil. Anyways yea, IDK. White smoke coming from header u-bend area, possibly where it connects to engine not entirely sure. All the headgasket posts I've read, its coming out of the exhaust. No white smoke coming out of my pipe. Bike has no issues starting, not overheating. I bought a headgasket kit from cometic anyways (do they always come with a head/base gasket?), but I just want to hear you're guys thoughts before I tear my head off. Both of them haha. Thanks for reading this post and extending a bit of your expertise. Im a noob, but Im trying to learn.
  15. As a new owner to the DRZ400S I'm still getting to know the bike a little bit and have a roughly 250 miles. I noticed in the morning with the choke fully on being about 45 degrees and the bike being completely stock it needs to crank a few times to get it started. Is this normal for a DRZ? I ask because I've seen a few cold star videos where the bike starts basically on contact with the starter button. Is it safe to assume as the bike gets broken in that it will loosen up a bit and start a little quicker or is there a possibility the valves need to be adjusted?
  16. Hi, I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust. Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135. In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be? Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom? Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached) I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated. Thanks Timo
  17. Good Morning, Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S. It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011. I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt. Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm. Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30 My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down. My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec. They are no more than 25 microns out of spec. My question is, do I really need to shim these? Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses? As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80. Thanks!
  18. hey guys, so lately i’ve been thinking and i think i’d like to try and get my hands on a dual sport that i could bring onto the streets. i’m looking for the early-mid 80’s era as i love the look of them. i don’t know much about these, and all i’ve really looked at were the honda xl’s & xr’s. Which do you think would be a decent bike i could get to restore? i have also been looking at the drz’s as well. but i’d like to know what’s the pro’s and con’s of the different dual sport type bikes and which you’d prefer? & also, all i have to rip now is a 250 2t on dirt.. and i know for examples the xr’s go up to 650 but haven’t been able to find anywhere, mostly 250’s and 300’s. Have any you guys ridden these? just seems like small displacement for the roads? you guys ever wish they had more power? thanks for any input!
  19. Hi I’m new here on thumpertalk and this will be my first post. So I just purchased a 2002 Suzuki drz400s that was converted to a supermoto. I’m currently looking to replace the tires with a set of pirelli diablo rosso 2. The bike currently has sm wheels off of another bike with a 110/70/17 front tire and a 140/70/17 rear tire. I’ve looked at all the post related to this topic but none related directly to the s model. My question is can I run a 120/70/17 front and 150/60/17 rear tire on the sm rims without running into rubbing issues? Keep in mind I have the s model drz400 and I’ve heard the swingarms are different. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  20. So I have a 2000 drz400s, the timing correct i triple checked and took it for a test drive. It has under 1500 miles. And i just replaced my left and right side cam chain guides with the timing chain because one of my ccg had gotten torn up by the chain. And now there's a loud ticking noise coming from the engine.... Please if you have an idea as to what it is or might be im all ears. Thank you. A.C. Drzflorency.
  21. One of the major shortfalls of the DRZ400 is the front/rear suspension in stock form. Early non adjustable forks were too spongy soft and later adjustable forks were stiff and tracked poorly. The rebound only adjustable rear shock was a bit better than the front end but still left a lot to be desired. Compared to my Husqvarna 610 it felt downright anemic and dangerous. While you can sink a bunch of money into revalving, respring, racetech, ect. and end up with a nice ride, I was more interested in what I might get with a bolt on swap. If you read through the forums there is ample info about which forks can swap onto the DRZ with the RM forks being the preferred. However, there are lots of variations in offset which complicate which year to buy, it's a little vague what exactly is direct compatible, and there are a ton of opinions on how it will ride better/worse etc, but very few reports back from people who have made the swap. That's why I'm writing this up. I chose to take a less expensive route which I feel looks better and performs to a level Im used to with my 2 stroke MX bikes. I direct swapped the triples and forks from an 05 RM250, reusing my stock wheel, rotor, caliper, and headlight with a DRZ400SM headlight mount, all sourced online for less than $200. All of this was direct bolt on with no modification. This change alone was night and day better in every way. It held a line with much more confidence and less chatter, it handles soft sand more like it's riding on it and less like it occasionally plows, it rides much smoother at higher speeds, and it's less twitchy as opposed to more. It felt much more nimble and lighter even though any weight loss was minimal. With just the front end swapped It immediately felt on par with my Husqvarna. In fact, it feels so much like my 2 stroke MX bike that I was genuinely suprised. This was all with the stock rear shock which now felt too soft and the new limiting factor. For the rear I direct swapped an 06 RM125 rear shock and reused my stock drz spring to help manage my weight. Realistically I should be running a slightly stiffer spring but with the addition of adjustable high speed/low speed compression that comes on the rm125 shock, the rear end management feels again substantially improved. The speed, confidence, and aggression at which I can take obstacles feels like a completely different bike. It does sit higher. By my measurements it has a bit more travel now. To my surprise, it feels better on the road up to 80mph and tracks very well with maybe a tad more brake dive than stock. All this being said, I'm not saying you should make the swap. I'm not saying it handles better than a boat load of money thrown at the stock forks. I'm not saying that my style of Southern California Ocotillo Wells desert riding is directly comparable to your style of riding. What I am saying is there is a lot of erroneous information about how this swap might perform and if it's worth it over stock. I feel based on cost and performance that it hands down is absolutely worth it! Feel free to post up if you want to know more. I would have appreciated some real world experience before I nervously made the leap.
  22. I have a drz400s with a +4mm stroker kit. I was running a 4 layer base gasket to lower the compression bit ended up blowing a head gasket anyway from not tightening down the head enough ( did the 34.5 from the factory manual saw on here it was supposed to be 43). Now when the head gasket blew the head warped slightly so I got it resurfaced. When I got it resurfaced the machinest said he had to take .07 inches off which seems like a lot to me. Now with a stroker and that reduction in clearance I'm worried about where the compression ratio is. Has anyone in a similar situation got any insight? Should I be alright with a 4 layer base gasket or am I sitting on a ticking time bomb. Thanks.
  23. Hey all just bought a 2005 DRZ 400S. I found a used FCR 39MM carb that is in good condition. No wear on the throttle slide with no pitting. Looks clean. Want to rebuild, new gaskets and rejet it. Think I am using the right Terminology. I am a newbie with all this. I will be riding mostly from 3000 to 7500 feet. Have a stock exhaust and will do the 3x3 modification. wondering if there is a kit i can buys or do i need to by Individual parts....
  24. I had a drz400e with a great motor but I wanted it to be street legal (in Florida there's no way to make it street legal unless it comes that way from the factory). I bought a drz400s really cheap because it had s lot of miles and I swapped the motors. I got my E motor running just fine with the S wiring harness (thanks to previous posts in this forum), but I'm not getting any spark on the S motor with the E harness (it has the S cdi). Any ideas? I know my neutral switch isn't connected to anything, is that the problem?
  25. Hi guys, i'm looking for some help on rejetting my bike. Basically every guide I see is about the DJ and JD jetting kits which are obscenely overpriced to get shipped to the UK, we're talking around $150 for something that should be less than half of that cost given the parts in the kits. So, I was wondering if anyone knows of somewhere in the UK these can be purchased at a sensible price or a workaround of buying the parts individually? I've got a DRZ400s (2001) and I've yet to take the carb off, although the bike came with an FMF downpipe and exhaust, it seems to be running lean so for peace of mind I want to rejet the carb and open up the airbox (3x3). According to service manual documentation the bike has the following on the carb: Main Jet - 142.5 Pilot Air Jet - 135 Pilot Jet - #22.5 Am I correct in assuming it's the Main Jet and Pilot Jets that are what need changing? I've watched a few videos and read up a load about this and everyone seems to refer to the Main Jet, which in my case would need to be a 160 as I'm basically at sea level, however i'm having difficulty in finding what part I need to order, there's a UK website I can order from http://www.motocarb.com/ and this has a range of Mikuni jets but i'm unsure which ones I need and don't really want to pull the carb apart to identify these parts. Another post on these forums from almost ten years ago suggested that link and said to order the N100.606 part, however this seems to be the Pilot Air Jet so it just makes me really unsure on what I need. Would anyone be kind enough to clarify? Also I'm under the impression that the key to these kits that you can buy is the fact you can change the needle settings via the clip, is it possible to just add washers to the stock needle to have the same effect?
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