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  1. Hi all, Hoping someone can help. Basically I require the bush/bearing that sits in the crank arm on the small end. (the bush sleeve, bronze, brass thing, whatever you call it) Im based in the UK and Im having a hard time of finding a replacement. long story short, the bike acquired an oil leak while on a long journey and ended up running low on oil. I've stripped the engine, and everything is good apart from the piston and cylinder. I can't feel any play in the small end rod bush but it is marked and I'm changing it more for peace of mind than anything else. ps: I realise the bush maybe marked due to the softer material insert? I'm used to looking at cranks without this bush. (connecting rod) example
  2. Hello all, Some time ago i made double exhaust in my DRZ 400 SM, it was modifited since year and now its completly ready. I record a movie with some explanation "how its made" and soundcheck after all - english version is in description ( i will do my best to repair it becouse my english is not too good ) . It cost me a lot of work and time to make it good and now i want to show it to the world xD So, what you think about it ?
  3. Hello fellow thumpers, this is my first post, but I am not new to the TT forums, but I am looking for some help for anyone out there that is a DRZ400 engine guru.... Ill make it short and to the point but here is a quick back story.. My current bike is a 2013 DRZ400SM that currently has the engine out. My 3rd gear decided to grenade itself one day when I downshifted while ripping the backroads (a story for another time) Fast forward to the engine case split and finding out what actually happened, with all the metal particles and everything found, I decided id save a complete rebuild for another day and bought myself a complete bottom end from a 2019 DRZ400SM donor bike with apparently only 900 miles on it from a very reputable seller on ebay (he will not be named) So I received the motor yesterday and finally got to open everything up today for inspection.. but upon inspection of the engine I found something that stood out right away and has made me skeptical about using this motor as I don't know if it will be a problem. On the right side of the engine case close to where the engine balance shaft gear is, there is some casting that has been broken off during disassembly per his words, and he is saying it is a slot for the timing chain guide...So that is why im here looking for anyone who can confirm is this will be an issue for the engine. Just to be clear the seller has been contacted and shown the issue, he has acknowledged the issue and is more than willing to take back the engine if need be and issue a full refund. If this will not be an issue than I will most likely keep the engine due to it being low mileage and everything else seems to be clean, but if anyone here can confirm this chunk of casting is crucial or needed for the motor then I will send it back ASAP! Thanks for taking the time to read! I will attach photos of the new 2019 donor bottom end engine first with the damaged casting, and will pics of my 2013 engine after for comparison as to how it should look.
  4. Hey, new member here looking for opinions I have about 8k miles on my 2015 DRZ400sm. I was riding about 80mph and felt a momentary loss of power, dropped off the throttle and it felt ok. At the next stop i could here top end noise like the piston was tapping so i tore it apart and found: The upper piston ring was ok, the lower was stuck in the groove (flush with the piston ) and unable to move around the piston. there was scuffing on both intake and exhaust side of the jug and piston. Before tearing apart i did a leakdown and could hear air from exhaust and from down by the timing chain. I will try to post pic and video with this post Bike was running great then had started puffing smoke when i get on it quick, and the idle would fluctuate a good bit 2015 DRZ- 3x3, k&n filter, FCR39 (with eddie mod) DRZ E airbox boot and exhaust header with drilled out stock SM muffler with "power tip"
  5. Bike was sitting for a winter before I bought it from my mom. She was the second owner. Was leaking fuel from around petcock, replaced it. Bike now wont idle unless choke is on. It also won't say up to speed upon riding. Took full carb apart and cleaned it. My dad is saying simple float kit for the carb, he says the float is getting stuck and it's dying for fuel. Someone else (the car mechanic that I work with that has worked on his own bike) says it sounds like a accelerator pump. Opinions?
  6. Hi all, I am doing a top rebuild to a 434 big bore on the drz and clutch plates replacement and when I drained out the oil there was a very small spring on the drainage magnet and I have no clue from where it could've come from any of you guys know where it could've come from Thanks in advance
  7. DrzKC

    drz400sm

    I had a gsx-s750 and got rid of it and picked up a 2015 drz400sm this week. It's used and the last guy put knobbies on it. I'm switching back to Michelin power 2ct. stock tire size is 140/70. The current tires are 150/70. I was looking at running 160/60. Anyone know if this would be a problem? I'm just getting into the supermoto life so any other general suggestions would be great. Thanks!
  8. Ok so my FCR39 TT Kit came in the mail & it has some instructions as well as the extended fuel screw & jd kit.. first: the jets on the carb match the jd settings but I'm pretty certain the fuel needle is different.. should I swap everything to jdkit parts or is the needle all I need? second: I've also read about the o-ring (size #78) or wire mod.. didn't see it anywhere in the instructions but is it something I still ought to do? Also, is the R&D Power Bowl2 a permanent solution to the o-ring mod.. meaning I wont have to ever put an o-ring on or replace them.. just put the new bowl w/ ap adjustment once & I'm good? also, anything else I should know? I've pulled the old carb out in the past & I understand what's what for the most part.. just not certain about finicky mods and what shits current..
  9. Hello all, I apologize if this question has been asked already, I have spent the last 30 minutes trying to find an answer to my question to no avail. So here we go: I decided to get my factory wheels powder coated (just the hubs, spokes, and nipples) to help jazz things up a bit. I sent the wheels out to my powder coat guy, he is a huge Suzuki guy and is a factory certified Suzuki technician as well as an MMI graduate with perfect attendance. The guy really knows his stuff. However he is more of a GSXR specialist and doesn't mess with dirt bikes too much. So after coating the wheels he sent them to the local Suzuki dealership to have them re-assembled and trued. I'm not sure how much these guys know about DRZ's as they are more of a Yamaha/Kawasaki heavy dealership but they do sell a few Suzuki's (This is the same place I bought my sm brand new) and the guy who laced the wheels is a big name in the local motocross scene. Anyways; my guy got them back, called me, and I picked them up and installed them on my bike immediately. After putting the bike back together I immediately noticed my chain was now rubbing my tire. I did some research and came to the conclusion (educated guess is probably more accurate) that the wheel offset is incorrect. I'm not really the most comfortable attempting to fix this myself but I figure it has to go back regardless if I don't, so I might as well try and take a stab at it. I contacted my guy and he said he verified that the wheel is true and that the hub was perfectly center when he received it back from the dealership. However, I have read on Supermotojunkie that the DRZ has a right side offset from the factory and am wondering it that's what the issue is. If that is true, does anyone know what the offset is supposed to be? Or how I can determine what it should be? Also will I be able to get away with just using a spoke wrench to try and tackle this by myself? The bike has stunt pegs so I was just gonna disconnect the chain and set it up on jack stands to use the swing arm and axle as a "truing stand". Also, any other things to look for that might suggest it's not an offset issue? I added a new chain and sprocket as well but the chain is a 520 chain just like the stock one and the sprocket is a steel sprocket as before as well, so I doubt it's any different in thickness. It came from Supersprox and is nice and beefy. Thank you all in advance for your help! Any information is appreciated.
  10. I have my 2001 DRZ400S I have converted to a supermoto, and now I want to start doing performance mods. I want to do the 3X3 mod, along with a jet kit, and a pipe. As of now my personal choice is going to be the Yoshi RS2 Full system, a Dynojet jet kit, and a K&N filter for the 3X3. I am posting this to see if anyone would disagree with this setup, or have any recommendations on what might be better or worth doing along the way. (I do not want to wait 4 weeks for the MRD exhaust or I would go that route) Any comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated, Going to do this in about one week. Thank you, Brad
  11. Post up a vid of a burnout on your supermoto.. heres what happens when i get bord at home.. full up the garage with smoke and get the neighbours calling the firetruck haha
  12. NEED HELP! Just installed a TT fcr39mx. Stock petcock. Runs great except cruising at lower speeds and low rpm. The power surges in and out. Also there is a loud air box snort now(may be normal for this carb idk) and it may run better on the prime position but I'm not 100% sure yet. I haven't ridden it a bunch so far. Mods are full MRD, 3x3, kn filter, fcr39mx
  13. Hey Guys, I just recently purchased a new 2017 drz400sm and I'm looking to get all of the supplies for my fist oil change. I see that TT has oil change kits for this, but I saw this oil filter that is made out of stainless steel (has really good reviews and you can just reuse it by washing it out similar to an air filter). Link here: http://www.motosport.com/pc-racing-flo-stainless-steel-oil-filter What do you guys think? Stainless steel or something like the paper K&N filters?
  14. *Mods please Delete this thread. I posted another one in the dirt/sumo forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  15. Anyone mount up a top case to a rack similar to the one shown on my SM? I'm looking for a good medium sized "trunk" type case to carry small items, grocery, beer, mail, etc to make it a more complete "errand bike". I was looking at the Pelican "Storm" series, like the iM2200 but just need to devise a good mounting system without butchering the case itself. I thought I saw a universal mounting kit a while ago for tubular racks, but alas now I can't seem to locate it. And I'd prefer to keep it on the lower-end of the pricing spectrum, i.e. not $400-500. Thanks!
  16. Hey Guys! I'm brand new here (and to riding in general!) so if i'm breaking the rules or if there's a sticky i should have read, Sorry!! Just tell me where I need to go! If not, I'm looking at a 2008 DRZ-400SM with about 20k miles on it, and the guy wants $3699 for it. Actually it's a powersports dealer (good or bad??) that seems to have a good reputation around here and it comes with a 12 month/unlimited miles, limited warranty (no idea what the fine print says). It's just impossible to find a used DRZ400! I want one to take offroad and i've read you can swap the wheels really easily, plus i'm just starting to ride so maybe it'd be a good bike to learn on? Correct me if i'm wrong! Any help you got!
  17. I'm sure this has been beat to death, but I couldn't find a quick answer by doing a search... I have the Yoshimura RC2 full exhaust being delivered tomorrow. Question: The bike is brand new with only a few miles on it. Can I run the pipe on the stock jetting, a K&N installed and the snorkel removed from the airbox? Will it run okay? Will the plug burn properly? I do have the JD jetting kit and plan on doing the 3x3 cut out. Unfortunately I only have time to install the pipe before I leave for a trip. Thanks for the response.
  18. I am stumped on what to do and looking for guidance. i have a 2018 Drz400sm. put it through the first service then went through with the 3x3 mod with JD jet and full FMF pipes. followed everything the jet kit said and tuned for sea level with blue needle in 3rd position 160 main and 25 pilot and fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out. Took the bike for a spin and it ran like crap. Idle is fine . But the bike just has no power anywhere and feels like a 50cc machine. Top speed was 95kmph on the road. So following this a took the carb apart and tried more jetting combos thinking it was just running lean. No success. Still slow with no response. I put the bike back to complete stock jets and exhaust and taped over the 3x3 hole to replicate the snorkel back in. And even then it ran the exact same no power and weak response. So currently the bike is sitting back at full fmf exhaust , blue needle in 4th position, 160 main 25 pilot and 2 1/2 turns out with 3x3 airbox standard air filter. All to which it runs slow like the throttle doesn't work but every now and then it surges in power for a second and dies away. i looked into the TPS ( throttle control sensor) and it is running the correct resistance of 5 at closed throttle and 3.9 open. What could be the problem? help would be much appreciated.
  19. Hey guys. I have a 2006 Drz400sm, which I just got new tires and was putting them on. Torqued it all down. But now, when I drove my bike after I was done; I have to turn a little right (with the handlebars) To go straight. its like I mis- aligned my tire on the front maybe? Any suggestions or answers would be appreciated.
  20. So here's my problem. I just rebuilt my top end (big bore kit) three tanks ago because my other piston had shattered it's skirt in two places. Had the bottom end rebuilt too with new bearings, new oil pump. I start riding it, and when I'm on the highway going 55mph, everytime i open the throttle >10%, i hear this rattling, knocking sound as if my valves were noisy. As soon as i let go of the throttle, sound goes away. Sound doesn't happen at idle, or even when cracking the throttle at idle. I suspected pre-ignition or detonation so i removed my spark plug and checked down my piston and here's what I found. Keep in mind the spark plug and piston are 3 gas tanks old. Bike idles super well, and bogs when I crack open throttle at 100% really fast, then recovers and revs up. Please any thoughts would be really aprpeciated. Maybe I'm just pannicking (hopefully)!!! Pics: SPECS: -Elevation: 540ft. -2001 DRZ400S Converted SM -Has manual cam chain tensioner and yes i know how to adjust it (idle and screw until click goes away) -434cc Cylinder Works Big Bore kit installed 3 gas tanks ago -3x3 Airbox -Pro Circuit T4 Exhaust with spark arrestor -Twin Air Air Filter -Stock Cams -Has FCR39MM Installed with following jets: -I always use 91 octane fuel ===>Coast enrichener removed and the two nipples plugged together with fuel hose ===>160 Main Jet ===>200 Main Air Jet ===>65 Starter Jet ===>60 Pilot Air Jet ===>45 Pilot jet ===>My needle is a OBDXP and the clip is at position 5. Spark plug: CR8E IX
  21. Run 1 is a 2013 Drz400sm with 3x3 mod, FCR carb, and yoshi exhaust. (32.45 HP) Run 6 is my personal bike 2006 Drz400s (64.66 HP) -Myers Racing 94mm big bore kit -Myers Racing +4mm stroker crank -Myers Racing stage 3+ Cylinder head (Moldstar90 valve seats, Bronze valve guides, Stage 3 port) -Web cam (MR grind) -Ferrea valves (+1mm all 4) -Isotropic treatment on transmission -43.5mm FCR carb -K&N filter
  22. Are there any differences between the front header of a DRZ400SM and DRZ400E except the diameter? I want to replace my exhaust system as the current one does not have an E-mark and also doesn't seem to have an option to temporarily put in a DB-killer. (And I do not like the looks of it anyways, so good excuse to change it 🙄) I have got a DRZ400E engine in my DRZ400SM frame. Should I order a complete SM exhaust system or a SM muffler with DRZ400E front header?
  23. Hello TT, hopefully someone can shed some light on the mistake i made while attempting to replace the gasket behind the stator cover and then changing the oil. I removed the case then the old gasket placed the new one in and then sealed her back up fill her with about 1.8L of new moil. Let the bike sit. then i tried to start it and this is what i got. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B88B9EhVqIu5aVJxXzJMZVVjNTA
  24. Heyo! I have a 2008 DRZ400SM with around 12k miles on it. The bike has been having issues starting lately, so I was hoping someone on here could help me trouble shoot. I'm able to get the bike to fire up fairly quickly, it will idle between the upper 1500s and mid 1700s (rpms) for a few minutes before the rpms begin to drop about 100rpms/sec before stalling out. I pulled the petcock out and checked that the fuel filter was clear of debris and it was. I also pulled the carb out to adjust the fuel mixture screw. It was only a half turn out. I turned it in to snug and backed it out 3 full turns, reinstalled, same issue. I pulled the carb back out and rejetted it. Previous jetting: Red Needle from JD Jet Kit, clip at 3rd position down, 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet. After Rejet: Swap to Blue Needle from JD Jet Kit, clip at 4th position down, 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet (carb was clean and jets were not clogged, fuel mixture screw remaining at 3 full turns out). Bike fired up instantly after rejetting, but after multiple minutes of idling (1600+/- 100) the rpms again dove and stalled, fan kicked on and coolant in overflow. *While trouble shooting this I have been adjusting the idle screw to keep the idle rate at 1600+/- 100 and will blip the throttle from time to time. 50% of the time I blip the throttle the rpms will stay up around 2500 or so and will take multiple seconds to drop back down into the normal idle range.* I threw my helmet on for a quick test spin around the neighborhood. The rpms seemed much higher than normal, ranging between 2500 and 4000, including when the clutch was pulled in. The rpms seemed to be "hanging up" and not falling back under 2k. I didn't go above 40 mph or above 3rd gear, most of the time I was in second gear. I pulled over to put the bike in neutral, the rpms finally dropped, but down to around 1400 and then 1100 before stalling. It took multiple seconds and a good twist on the throttle to get the bike to fire back up. I went straight home, put it in neutral and the rpms dove again and the bike died. I live in North Carolina, low elevation, hot and humid climate most of the year. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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