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Found 31 results

  1. 2013 ktm 450sxf rode it this past weekend runs fine till the decel and start popping but when I pulled my exhaust to pull my back shock out for a stiffer spring I put my finger in the head pip and it's black like jet tuxedo black and was thinking how could it b lean piping if it's running rich
  2. I recently bought a 2011 Kx450 and am having some issues starting the bike. Ive ridden dirtbikes since i was little and ive never owned a four-stroke or anything with EFI. So tuning and tinkering is something I need some help on. Anyways, I can kick a thousand times on the bike and it seems like it wants to start it wont start unless I blip the throttle, and very carefully because too much and the thing will either kickback or backfire. Cant use the idle knob either because then it really pops and backfires. It takes about 5-10 kicks with the bliping method. Ive check plug, fuel filter, new fuel, everything is fine. Once the bike runs and is warmed up it dies without the choke after about 10 seconds. As far as I know it hasnt had the ECU reprogrammed with the full system, would it really make it that hard to start without a reprogram? Should I send it in or just buy a stock header for it?
  3. Hi, Have a Kawasaki KX250 with a ecotrons two stroke efi turbo kit. Has any one else fitted one of these kits? Having problems getting it tuned right. Starts really well and on bitimun once you get past the bogging it really flies but once on sand or dirt it runs very lean. Despite advertising turbo two stroke kits Ecotrons dont seem to know a lot about tuning the EFI to suit and auto tuning with the 02 sensor hasnt helped. i tried manually tuning but that was worse. If someone has got one to work I would like to hear from them and wouldnt mind trying their Cad file. I know it wont be perfect for my set up but it should put me in the ball park. I did ask Ecotrons toput me in touch with someone who has got one to work but they just put me in touch with their tech department.
  4. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  5. Just picked up a 2012 WR450F with a claimed 3,800km. It looks like its been put through its paces and like the owner enjoyed crashing into lots of shit What are some of the common mods for this year? Grey wire mod? AIS/Smog removal? EFI mapping? Here are the issues: Electric start doesn't start the bike. It turns over but rarely starts. I end up having to use the kick. I've ridden a 2011 that never had this problem (Still carbureted). I'm going to check the valves but not sure what else to do. The EFI choke doesnt help E-start, hot or cold. The "check engine" light came on during the first ride. I stopped riding for a bit, started back up and it was off. But I didnt ride anymore after that. I called the previous owner but he claimed it never happened to him. Again, I'm going to check the valves. Also it runs very hot. Maybe a temperature issue. I will do a flush and run engine ice. See if the light comes back on. Hoping to not have to take it to a Yamaha dealer to see what codes its giving but will probably have to? I dont own a tuner. So far those are the only issues that alarm me. I will probably get a compression tester and do a test just for kicks. So if anyone is familiar with this EFI, 5 valve head style Yamaha, let me know what to look out for, what to do, how to make it run better etc. Right now its not running as nice a a 2011 with a full FMF system and quickshot accelerator pump mod. But I'm holding off on getting a slip on as I'm not sure I even want to keep the thing now. Any advice welcomed, thanks!
  6. hi guys, check this shared sheet and feel free to add your bike and settings.it could be good start point for somebody who wants to tune his bike on his own with iBeat.thx https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Fxpkk-ItJ7JklD4a9oweK_DHoz5gnpTOyDRuir2BaDs?fbclid=IwAR3mS5ijUz5zG88qTM5RpQXSvqBtN_Gi-1sn35zGchrMfy3p5ug3yPTKhUA
  7. I'm getting down to the end of working on a nearly bolt on EFI conversion for my xr650l (and maybe yours too!) Our bikes only came with crank sensors so have provisions for mounting them, nbd. Cam sensors on the other hand... I believe I can use what appears to be a very convient casting in the valve cover that with a little milling should accomadate a standard sensor. It lines up almost perfectly with the camshaft. I've already found that there is some variance in how Honda cast these bosses, ie: with or without holes in them. Doesn't matter though, just a few more chips left on the table after the machine work. So what I could use are few quick measurements to make sure this works. Need inner and outer diameter of the two bosses(red and blue) as well as the center to center distance of the two.
  8. I have a Polaris sportsman 570 electronic power steering and fuel injected. I’ve gone through two batteries in two years on this thing, I pulled the battery last fall and had it on a tender in a heated garage until it got warm out. It was perfectly fine at first, then after a few times up and down the street it started dying out. I shut it off, and when I went to start it, it didn’t have enough power to turn it over. I put it on the charger for about 10 minutes and now the led screen won’t even show numbers or anything. This thing has 119 hours on it and I don't think it’s the battery, I domt know much about efi and electronics. Does this sound like a connection issue? Maybe I need to get a Honda instead lol
  9. Recently bought a 2011 kx450, first time owning a 4-stroke, efi for that matter. The bike has a tough time starting, with the idle advancer pulled out I can kick and kick forever and it wont start, it'll even backfire after 10-20 kicks. Ive tried without the idler and the only way it starts is with a throttle blip, even then im taking my chances because it will either start, kickback, or backfire. The guy before put on a full fmf system with no re-tune as far as I know. I really don't think its the valves because it runs fine other than that. It also runs pretty damn hot after 2-3 minutes of warming up. Ive checked the plug and its brown for the most part except for a little white at the electrode. Would a full fmf system really screw with starting that much or am I missing something? Would a bad sensor cause this either? Even after its been warmed up it will start hard again.
  10. Just serviced my 2015 YZ250F, noticed the oil looked thinner than normal, and on closer inspection found oil smelt of fuel. Being fuel injected how can this happen? Leaking injector? Anyone had the same problem?
  11. FIRST POST! I have a bone stock 2015 CFR250L (Smallest bike I've ever owned, actually) No airbox mod or anything like that yet.....struggling to keep up with crazy traffic! I need more power out of it. Where is my money best spent? I'd love if the fuel mileage improved too, as I struggle to get over 55mpg. (I'm 6'1", 225lbs with my backpack) Assume I only get one thing, I'm on a budget for now. Should I just get just the EJK tuner? Just the powercore muffler? Just a header and keep stock muffler? Stop being cheap and get the whole exhaust? What gets me the most $$$-to-Horsepower conversion rate here?
  12. Hi I have been working with motocross bikes on and off for around 15 years, I have built lots of engines and worked for a Suzuki team around 10 years ago before efi became popular in motocross. I am considering starting a workshop in the Brisbane region of Australia but my concern is lack of knowledge regarding electrics and efi systems. I have a basic understanding of how efi systems work but I would like to find out a little more. My question is how can I gain more knowledge on fuel systems from various manufacturers? I would also like to know if there is an on board diagnosis tool I can buy that works with all manufacturers? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Advice on starting up for myself would be greatly appreciated too if anyone knows about setting up a business, particularly in Australia. Thanks in advance Ben
  13. Hello kids, Looking to get my second dual sport. Ive been riding for 3 years on my DR200. I mostly prefer single track and technical riding. I recently test rode the DRZ on dirt. I liked the extra grunt, but found it too tall for my legs and too top heavy for my riding style. Anyway, I like what I've read about the KLX250's suspension and aftermarket mods. I see "easy install" kits and directions all over, but no information as to how the 2018 kid's EFI will change installing these kits. Will it require an aftermarket EFI? Or possibly even a carb swap kit?
  14. So i have a 2009 kx450f with efi and I'm trying to hook up lights and turn signals and all of that good stuff to make it street legal. I know I need to tap into the bikes power supply to power all of this but I don't know where that would be. Should I go through the cdi or the efi and if so where would that be.
  15. I believe I have a short to ground somewhere in my stator. The 3 pins give more resistance than the spec. It's giving me 1.3 - 7.4 Ohms, the spec range is 0.5 - 0.8 Ohms. When I put my meter on continuity and test each pin to ground, there is continuity (it beeps). It's not supposed to have continuity to ground, right? I have one lead on the pin, the other either on the frame or on the - side of the battery. I'm referring to the 3 pin connector that comes from the stator and plugs into the rectifier regulator. Has anyone taken off their flywheel side cover on this bike? It looks like its more difficult than on a YZ since there is the starter gear on this side. All the videos I can find are on bikes that are kick start only, less stuff on that side of the engine. Looking for some tips and resources to taking that case off, aside from what the manual says. Also, when I get in there, I'm planning to take the whole stator out and then test the pins on the bench. If it's no longer shorting to ground I should have a different resistance reading.
  16. Hi Guys, so i have had this Husky for about 4 months now, it's quite a nice bike, though it's a little low on torque at low revs, especially given i weigh 98kg. But I can't seem to get it to run nicely, and I have no Husky dealers anywhere near me available to help. as best i can tell there are only two adjustments that can be made, The main throttle body butterfly end stop, this obviously adjusts how much the butterfly can close when you release the throttle, and the star headed screw on the side of the throttle body, (seems to be a Air screw) I've fiddled endlessly with these two trying to get the bike to run and start better, but i just can't find a sweet spot. according to the work shop manual, the screw is for setting the idle, (which is supposed to be 1950rpm, no idea how to set that without a rev counter, can just guess i suppose) If the screw sets the idle, then where should the butterfly be? completely closed? In that case what sets the richness? is it all done by mapping? My Current problems are: The bike struggles to start cold, i Have to hold the throttle wide open and use a carefully timed combo of starter and kicker. When it finally starts, it splutters and runs badly for 3 or 4 minutes until its warm, then it seems to be okay and it idles alright. Once it gets very hot and the fan is kicking in, it splutters again and wants to die at low and medium revs, which means i have to keep it revving and tackle every obstacle at an uncomfortably high speed. once it's had a chance to cool a bit it runs better again but still not perfectly. I have a brand new iridium plug in it, and the plug looks neither burnt nor carboned up. The fuel pump is priming and whizzing away in the background, all contacts clean and servicing done, the bike is generally in good condition, it just runs badly. I live 650m above sea level, in a fairly hot climate, and our fuel here is 98 octane unleaded. As i previously rode carb model two strokes, I have no experience with this, it's nothing like old fashioned jetting. any help would be appreciated. Kind regards, Daniel.
  17. Hi, I recently bought a used 2014 Yz250f (efi bike) and i have been having a problem with it. So i bought the bike from a guy who raced motocross, he kept the bike in tip top shape. When i got the bike, it had a fresh top-end with a high compression piston, and stage two hotcams and a aftermarket exhaust systems. I race a mix of woods and moto races so i figured i could just add a few things for the woods and it would be set to go. When i was riding the bike before buying it, the seller mentioned that the bike almost "hesitates" when going from low to high rpms, he said that this had something to do with the new sprockets but to just stay on the gas. i bought the bike not thinking much about that because it was all around a really nice bike but now i cannot for the life of me figure out what is a causing that bog. On a moto track you hardly notice it because your always riding in the top end of the rpm range, however in the tight woods it makes the bike difficult the ride. It almost feels like there is a gap inbetween the bottom and top end powerwise, and you have to roll on the throttle real smooth in order for it to not sputter. If your going slow and then try and grab throttle quickly (to get over a log for example), it sputters out and there is no power. I tried giving the bike more bottom end power by adding a bigger sprocket, which gave more bottom end but didnt make the bog go away. Then i bought a GYTR Power Tuner, thinking i could retard the Ignition timing and move the power to the bottom end. I haven't gotten to test it a ton yet, but so far maps have helped take away the bog. Aside from that the bike runs perfectly, i have looked online and found no one else who seems to have had this problem which is why i am posting this. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, as i have no clue what to do next, Thanks.
  18. I have a 2012 YZ450 and i did a much needed deep cleaning with a pressure washer and it started fine and ran i put it in the garage and started to polish it for pictures and cleaned and oiled the air filter and let it sit over night like usual and then the next morning i changed the oil and rode it up and down my alley way to warm it up and get it circulated and as i came back to my garage to talk to my neighbor i shut it off while i was moving with the clutch in and as it shut off i heard a odd noise and didn't think too much about it at the time and when i went to start it again,i had found out that my kick starter was not going past half way and the top half had no compression and i tried putting it in gear and moving it but all i got was some metallic noises from the inside of the cylinder and so i put it back in my garage and took the clutch and clutch basket out and there didn't seem to be anything wrong on that side so i took the magneto cover off and removed my flywheel and made sure the key was there and nothing was abnormal i put the flywheel back on and was torquing it down and i had the rear wheel locked up and it would still spin and the flywheel would turn with force and the timing chain would move a link and make a crack/ metallic noise,not sure what is was but i got the flywheel torqued and somehow the crank and everything was moving and i could kick it normally but still not even trying to start. i proceed to take the plug out and made sure it got spark and it did, the plug was a little darker black then normal and it was bone dry so i put it back in and tried to start it,still no luck..So i have come to you guys in need of some help or advice.Any help is much appreciated -TE
  19. I have a 2012 YZ450 and i did a much needed deep cleaning with a pressure washer and it started fine and ran i put it in the garage and started to polish it for pictures and cleaned and oiled the air filter and let it sit over night like usual and then the next morning i changed the oil and rode it up and down my alley way to warm it up and get it circulated and as i came back to my garage to talk to my neighbor i shut it off while i was moving with the clutch in and as it shut off i heard a odd noise and didn't think too much about it at the time and when i went to start it again,i had found out that my kick starter was not going past half way and the top half had no compression and i tried putting it in gear and moving it but all i got was some metallic noises from the inside of the cylinder and so i put it back in my garage and took the clutch and clutch basket out and there didn't seem to be anything wrong on that side so i took the magneto cover off and removed my flywheel and made sure the key was there and nothing was abnormal i put the flywheel back on and was torquing it down and i had the rear wheel locked up and it would still spin and the flywheel would turn with force and the timing chain would move a link and make a crack/ metallic noise,not sure what is was but i got the flywheel torqued and somehow the crank and everything was moving and i could kick it normally but still not even trying to start. i proceed to take the plug out and made sure it got spark and it did, the plug was a little darker black then normal and it was bone dry so i put it back in and tried to start it,still no luck..So i have come to you guys in need of some help or advice.Any help is much appreciated -TE
  20. Ok fella's here's the story. Bought a 2018 250 XCW TPI in December of 2017 had for 2 weeks and had 3 hours on it, took it back to the dealer with a hard start, no start problem. They had it for a week and couldn't find any problems, even though I had video of the problem. Then they charged me $150 because they couldn't find anything wrong with it. So KTM warranty ain't worth a crap. This problem is now intermittent and getting more frequent. The bike has now produced a new problem. (25 hours) The bike now never gets on the pipe/power band and feels as to be loading up, never cleans out. Called KTM again and all they say is take it to the dealer, yeah right! LOL Over the past two nights I've completely torn the bike apart, EVERYTHING! (just shy of splitting the cases) I have checked and confirmed every sensor, plug, wire, spark plug,connector, timing, crankshaft key, reeds, Air filter, powervalve, fuel pressure, ground, power, battery, piston, rings, filter, injectors, fuel, oil pump, etc..... Has anyone had any of these problems with their TPI? If there is anyone from KTM on here please contact me.
  21. Does anybody know if ktmandhusky.com is more of a scam site? Im doing my research for a new ktm or Husky this summer and stumbled upon this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJOc9TQh1MU. He talks about all the 2017 EFI bikes having an issue with the fuel rail and how the rail causes a lean condition. I did some more research and found that he sells a fuel rail for just about every EFI bike KTM makes. I find it hard to believe that an issue like this would go unnoticed by the engineers for so long. I also could not find any other mention of fuel rail issues or this being talked about. What do you guys think? Is this reliable information?
  22. 2012 WR450, bought it in the fall and am starting to fix it up. The battery looks fairly new, Previous owner said it's new. It charges fine and will start the bike with E-start. But throughout ride it drains, won't e-start and then the bike starts running like crap and the engine light goes on. I pulled the headlight bulb and that helped a bit but still started to run bad after more riding. I charged the battery last night, was at 12.8V throughout the day. Put it on the bike, started it a few times, rode it for 5 minutes. Now is at 12.6V I went through the troubleshooting process. On the wiring harness, I tested the stator plug. The specs are 0.52-0.78 Ohms, pin 1 and 2 showed .7 Ohms. Pin 1 and 3 showed 6.7 Ohms, pin 2 and 3 around the same (7 Ohms). I'm guessing if this is the problem, it's in pin 3. Not sure if that's enough of a difference in Ohms though. Then put the voltmeter to the rectifier/regulator and ran the bike. Specs are 14V @5000rpm. It never got past 4.8V and I was revving it well past 5000rpm. Was at about 2.8V on idle. Now, is the stock stator failing common for these 2012 WR450s? Has anyone else dealt with this and knows what the results of the testing is showing? I'd rather not buy both a battery and stator, I'd like to figure out exactly what it is then fix/replace. If rewiring the stator/cleaning it out is an option too that would be great Also, the error code it gave me was 4 long flashes, then 6 short flashes. Kept repeating that when I turn the bike on. Check engine light
  23. I've been riding Hondas exclusively since I was 10 years old with my ZR-50. I've always thought they were the most reliable bikes until this year... I have a 2009 CRF450R that has been perfectly maintained, babied and running Excellent until 2-3 weeks ago. One day It would not start. It would KICK, Turn Over 2 or 3 revolutions and the DIE instantly. Would not stay running (Sounded like not getting electric fuel). I checked everything on the surface and the radiator Ground Wire bolt loosen and was off. No problem. So, I re-attached the Ground Wire snug and Still the same thing. I pulled the gas tank and pump assembly apart. Everything looked Perfect, clean filter, o rings good. All looked Normal. Still would not run past 2-3 turns of the crank. Then I hooked up a 12volt battery to the electric system, Fuel Pump went ON and Finally it Kicked Up and ran VERY ROUGH IDLE. As soon as I touch the throttle slightly it STALLS INSTANTLY. While idling it read these error codes: 8 Blinks (TPS CODE) A Pause and then 1 Blink (MAP CODE) Over and over. I checked the condenser and it held charge of 12 volts very long, several minutes before gradually and slowly dissipating. It seems strong. Normal. STILL not running So I put in a brand new TPS and CALIBRATED it to exactly .50 volts @ fully closed butterfly as specs. STILL would not run. Then I replaced the MAP sensor with a new one. STILL would not run. I checked the Ignition Coil Ohms and it was in spec. I took apart the entire wiring harness and cleaned every connector with q-tips and contact cleaner. Reassembled all. STILL will not run! I just put a new ECU in and surprisingly... STILL WILL NOT RUN! When I KICK IT, It has enough internal energy to run itself 2-3 crank revolutions then Dies. It does not have the strength to keep itself running. Can someone please tell me WTF is my problem?! The only thing I haven't replaced (Electrically) is the Voltage Regulator. But would that show these symptoms? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  24. Anybody have this bike? What do you guys do to it to make it run better/faster/cooler... Slip on, mapping, other mods? And has anyone done a valve check on this thing.. How much shit do you have to take off to get that valve cover off??! Lol
  25. Photo: KTM 300 EXC TPI - Six Days ISDE Edition Two-strokes are still a hot button when it comes to talking about dirt bikes these days. The old "two-stroke vs. four-stroke" debate has been beat to death and many of us are sick of it, but it rages on regardless. OK!! So four-strokes won, the Japanese factories, AMA and EPA got what they wanted and it's over...two-strokes, once the powerhouses of motocross, have now been relegated to the shed, gone out of fashion and not used by any top racing team in MX or SX. But the two-stroke is still gasping for air thanks to KTM and maybe even Honda... who officially stated they'd converted to a four-stroke company years ago, so that's a surprise! Why is it still here? Because it's awesome that's why...two-stroke engines pack more horsepower per pound than four-stroke engines, and even if that statistic was equal, the number of complicated, fragile and expensive parts in a modern four-stroke will always cost more to replace. Granted the replacement interval for four-stroke motorcycle engines has gotten longer and longer but you'll always have the complication and expense factors to think about...and that's good for the manufacturers...a nice balance between reliability and the need to replace worn parts makes for a good bottom line, but that's another discussion. Obviously less moving parts and making more HP/lb are excellent attributes that appeal to motorcyclists and maybe not so much to the manufacturers at large. Three years ago, I wrote an article that talked about advances in two-stroke technologies and the possibility that these technologies (EFI, DFI, TPI) could help the two-stroke gain more market share. One of the conclusions was that EFI using DFI was too expensive, bulky and heavy to be a reality on off-road motorcycles and that has turned out to be the case when looking at how the technology is presenting itself in production form. KTM have been the leaders in two-stroke motorcycle engine design and accompanying technologies so it was only natural that KTM would be the first major motorcycle manufacturer to provide a viable cleaner-burning technology to the two-stroke arena. The first bikes to display this technology are the KTM 250 EXC TPI and the KTM 300 EXC TPI. Honda also has filed a similar patent but has not put any examples into production and looking at the patent drawings, it appears to be an industrial design featuring a pushrod, not suited for high-performance applications. What does this advancement mean, and is this the saving grace technology that two-stroke fans have been waiting for? No. But OK, it's a great advancement in terms of the accomplishment - but how does it impact the market as a whole? It's great if you ride enduro bikes in the EU...but will TPI bring two-strokes back to off-road bikes? Maybe, but motocross only bikes won't be included. Why not? Because the Japanese factories have a lot of time and effort invested in four-stroke technology and it's not going away. They influenced the sanctioning bodies and promoters to implement unfair displacement rules that favor four-strokes. So why did KTM do it? Because a lot of folks ride two-stroke enduro bikes and KTM sells a lot of them both in Europe and here in the USA! Although KTM doesn't make two-stroke streetbikes per se, they do have two-stroke enduros with plates and lights and these enduro models are homologated for use on EU public roads, which means they have to adhere to tough new Euro4 emissions limits, as well as be prepared for the upcoming Euro5 restrictions. I've spent a lot of time in the EU and small bikes matter...in fact small motorcycles are the norm not the exception. You see lots of small two-stroke bikes and scooters...but the EU impose restrictions on emissions so these bikes need to have some kind of emissions/clean air technology if they are to survive and prosper. Photo: New for 2018 KTM TPI Unit KTM has come to the conclusion that Transfer Port Injection (TPI) is the EFI delivery system that has won the war against its Direct Fuel Injection (DFI) rival which was the technology explored earlier by KTM. Why? DFI seemed good and had been proven on the street in a few smaller two-stroke applications and a bunch of four-strokes but when all the support hardware and electronics were installed on an off-road machine, things didn't play as well. Weight, expense and complexity all played into KTM abandoning the DFI technology. But they didn't stop looking for a cleaner burning two-stroke solution. TPI wins that war until something better comes along. TPI wins for now because of its unique new design which according to KTM features "two lateral domes, holding the fuel injectors supplying fuel into the rear transfer ports. Thus the loss of unburnt fuel is reduced for less emissions, a more efficient combustion and reduced fuel consumption. A little tube in the back of the cylinder is connected with an intake pressure sensor, which supplies pressure data to the control unit." KTM continued: "The TPI engine is fitted with a newly developed throttle body made by Dell`Orto. It features a diameter of 39mm. The airflow is regulated by a butterfly connected with a twin-cable throttle cam, which is operated by a new handlebar throttle assembly. A throttle position sensor provides airflow data to the control unit, while a bypass screw allows the regulation of the idle speed. The cold start device also opens a bypass supplying more air. Via an oil intake tube oil supplied from the oil pump is mixed with the incoming air to lubricate crankshaft bearings and cylinder/piston etc." Another great advantage is no more pre-mixing the fuel with oil, there is now an oil tank and metering system controlled by the ECU and this allows a very precise, variable and minimal mixture of oil to be burnt resulting in lower emissions. Photo: KTM 2-Stroke TPI Engine for 2018 Smaller niche companies that make two-stroke off-road machines in the same niche could be expected to follow this trend, possibly by licensing the technology from KTM or creating their own variants. This could include brands like Sherco, Ossa, Beta, TM, Gas Gas and the KTM-owned Husqvarna brand. So more cool bikes in Europe but what does it mean for riders in the USA? It could mean a little or a lot. Could this mean that KTM will be able to certify two-strokes with an emissions label indicating for "on-highway use"? This would be the hurdle to cross...once they've passed emission in places like Californis, the whole pie is up for grabs – here is what the California regulation says now: "Off-highway motorcycles must have an emission label affixed to the vehicle indicating certification by the manufacturer for on-highway use when converting to on-highway or dual registration. Registration guidelines for off-highway motorcycles converting to on-highway or dual registration require verification of the emission label." For KTM two-stroke riders, this technology would make sense to scale to the whole two-stroke lineup from EXC to SX. Imagine a version of the 250 EXC with lights that's legal for the streets here...and you ride it to work like the ultimate hooligan, or just be able to get a street plate to ride to your favorite riding destination. In conclusion, most people thought two-stroke was dead but maybe, just maybe, technology like TPI will make it feasable for KTM to expand their offerings using this technology. The first step it seems would be the ability to pass emissions both in the EU and USA, then maybe apply it to US market machines. If that happens we'll be first in line to try them. __________________________ ThumperTalk wants Your Comments On This Article: Is this a stopgap or a technological step forward? Would you ride a two-stroke street bike? Aren't those Six Day graphics awesome? Tell us what you think below!!
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