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Found 22 results

  1. Hey Everyone, I just wanted to let you know that the 2017 Freeride E-XC has officially arrived at Elite Motorsports! I was able to do a quick test ride after setting one up and it is really cool! Let me know if you have any questions or would like to get one. We have a limited supply still available. Scott Elite Motorsports 970-461-1022 scott@elitektm.com
  2. Hello All, I have a 2017 EXC-F 350 which I bought used with 80 hours on the clock. Since my first ride the bike started having the following problem: the yellow gas (reserve) light appears on the dashboard and then it looks like the fuel does not get to the engine. I accelerate a lot but the bike just gradually comes to a stop. The bike will start again with no problem, I can ride for a few hundred yards and the problem appears again. Sometimes when is hot, sometimes I will do an entire ride and nothing happen, and then the problem suddenly appears again. I believe is something electrical. I took it to the ktm dealer, they tried the ground, a different fuel pump, revised the cables and even tried with a new injector. Every time I go for a ride, the problem is still there. I borrowed a new ignition coil which I will try this saturday. I have not tried the ECU yet. Do you have any idea what it could be? best, Cristian
  3. I have been having an issue with my Ignition Coil on my 2002 YZ125. Let me explain the story of how it happened. Let me preface this by saying I know what is happening and I know what the specific problem is, I need to know if their is a way around this, and if anyone else has had this issue. So I go for a ride, everything works fine, end of the ride, go to wash the bike. Go to start it up afterwards, it does not rev out, as in it will idle but if you turn the throttle, the ignition doesnt advance, rpm stays same, but the system introduces more fuel and air obviously since throttle is open. This issue started about 6 months ago, so since then I have eliminated all the obvious and went through everything to determine it is in fact the secondary ignition coil that is failing. I am pretty proficient with this stuff and pretty much figured out the problem, but have never seen a topic on something like this and want to resolve the issue permanently. But I will walk through all the steps to ensure readers that it is this specific problem to save us both time haha. At the time i did not notice the ignition was not advancing and I naturally thought to look at carb, spark plug, plug cap, powervalve, top end, clocked jets, paper towels in airbox ect..... Well instead of even having to go through the carb, I was actually going to put a different carb on that night either way (Lectron Carburator), and that obviously didn't change anything. Checked Powervalves, changed spark plug, put different fuel in for the heck of it. Checked compression and also looked at the bottom end seals and made sure I did not have an air leak. Everything was perfect, as iv went through the entire engine a few months before this. So then I started looking into electrical. First thing I did was replace spark plug cap. That didnt do it, even though that was giving me wonky Ohms readings. Then I went through the entire electrical system, stator, ignition coil, kill switch. Everything tested good except for the ignition coil initially. Ended up replacing ignition coil. I also filed down the frame leads to bare metal that the ignition coil attaches too. ----- That fixed the problem, or so i thought. Started up and revved fine. Next week, I wash the bike, and it fails again. But this time I let the bike dry out... try a few hours later, and the problem is fixed again. At this point I determined that the water was causing the problem. So I go back and check both igniton coils and realize they both test the same, and that its really hard to get a steady reading on either of those parts. Throw the old one back in real quick and that works fine. Went through and checked all the wires again and used di-electric grease this time on things. Kept having this problem occasionally since then. It is never the end of the world because I know what is happening... and if I wait an hour, sometimes it takes a few, it will resolve itself. So the problem: Something going to the secondary ignition coil, or the coil itself is shorting or intermittently failing, and it is because of water. I do a very good job washing my bike and it always looks showroom condition, so I am spraying water everywhere, but all the electric is sealed up. I know a solution would to be not wash it as well or spray up under the tank where electric is, but that is not an option, I would like to resolve this issue. Thanks for the help -Kirk
  4. Hey everyone, I had an idea for the ultimate/ my dream electric dirt bike of the future. An electric dirt bike with enough power to match the output of all dirt bikes ever made. This would mean that you could map different dirt bike characteristics into 1, creating the dirt bike to end all dirt bikes. Imagine being at a moto park and wanting to ride a 125 2t for a few laps and then, with the push of a button being able to change to the characteristics/power of a 250 4t. Or if you wanted the characteristics of a Wr450 for some DS action to get to a track/trail and then switching to a yz450 for the track. This would mean that you could literally buy 1 dirt bike and never buy one again. Also allowing a beginner to have the same bike throughout their dirt riding "career" and be able to move up in power and delivery for free. The extreme tuneability of electric motors could also allow users to create their own engine maps, specific for their riding style and/or terrain. (ie. having a 125 2t with the amazing top end of the engine with an extra bump in the low end). This plus the inherent benefits of electric motor: operates cooler, silent, low maintenance, max hp and torque at 0rpm and how "green" they are, would make this bike an absolute beast with pretty much no government restriction. Obviously there would be restraints in the frame, tyres, suspension (although electric suspension like in road bikes could fix this) and battery life but I believe in the not so distant future this would be achievable and would be pretty amazing Don't get me wrong, I love my dirt bikes, 2 strokes specifically but electric bikes are the future and the faster we except this the faster this could be a reality. Everyone seems to be afraid of these new bikes but I think that if we embrace them we can allow a whole new era of dirt riding to happen. Just my $0.02, feel free to point out flaws/ completely shoot this entire thing down or add your own ideas below.
  5. Hey Everyone, I received a new price sheet from Alta and wanted to give you a quick update. The Redshift has proven to be a very competitive model in 2017. But, the major factor holding many consumers back is the price. Alta has adopted a very aggressive pricing structure In an effort to put the Electric platform within reach of more riders.... So, without further ado: 2018 Alta MX $10,495 (reduced from $14,995) 2018 Alta EX $12,995 (reduced from $15,495) 2018 Alta SM $13,495 (reduced from $15,495) All offroad models (EX and MX) will require a charger, you will two options for this: Base (currently shipping with the Alta MX and EX) $499 Upgraded (will have some additional features) $799 All SM models will continue to feature onboard charging and do not require a separate charger purchase. Alta has also given some incentives for 2017 models as well (these prices may vary depending on dealer) here is what we have available: 2017 Alta Redshift MX (Demo with 66 hours) $9,999 (includes charger) 2017 Alta Redshift MX (brand new) $10,495 (includes charger) To give you an idea of how competitive these prices are, the 2018 KTM Freeride E-XC will likely retail for over $13K! The Alta Redshift, in almost every way, is a superior motorcycle for a lot less money! I will do my best to keep you updated on any changes for 2018 as soon as they become available. In the meantime, please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about the Redshift lineup or would like to schedule a private demo. Scott Elite Motorsports scott@elitektm.com 970-461-1022
  6. Hey Everyone, We just got word that the Alta Motors Redshift SM will officially begin shipping this week! Give us a call if you would like to get one of these amazing new motorcycles! Make sure you call your dealer (or us if you choose) to make sure they have one coming for you if you put a deposit down on the Alta Website. The deposits are handled by the Alta Motors dealer network, I would recommend being proactive in contacting your dealer if they have not already contacted you first. Here is a video of Andy DiBrino riding the Alta Motors Redshift SM on the cart track: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLyCowUMOCE&t=5s Feel free to contact me anytime if you have any questions. Elite Motorsports 970-461-1022 scott@elitektm.com
  7. Greetings! I just bought an electric 2017 Alta Redshift MX. Love it to pieces! I have been trail riding it on powerline roads for the last week. It has a ton of traction, a lot of instant HP, and it is always in the right gear. It weighs 260 lbs, but without a heavy flywheel if feels very light, I swear, not any heavier than my 2015 Husky 250TC 2-stroke. Very flickable and maneuverable. The suspension is exactly the same as on my Husky. Same 4CS fork, same shock, and same linkage and motion ratios. Alta spec'ed an excellent valving, this 4CS works! The bike is very nicely balanced too. But it feels way too soft for motocross. And it is not the damping but the springs that feel soft. I can easily tell, the bike is very well controlled but feels wallowy, slow to respond to large road bumps, whoops, etc. Compresses the suspension almost fully on even small jump. Lots of slow but very significant acceleration squat and brake dive. It definitely needs stiffer springs. I noticed this when riding two other Altas as well. And some magazines and YouTube videos are also saying that the Alta Redshift MX is sprung too soft. I initially thought the springs were much softer than on my Husky. But they are NOT, according to the manufacturer. The stock springs are 0.52 kg/mm front and is 6.3 kg/mm rear. The bike weighs 260 lbs. It is heavy. The Alta has much stiffer springs than all my other MX bikes, including the YZ450F! So I bought the Motool Slacker digital sag scale and measured the sags accurately. Here is the kicker: The race sags are the same or less than on my 2-stroke Husky! The Alta suspension engineers must have copied the 2014 KTM and increased the spring rates proportionately to the weight of the bike + the weight of the rider. The static sags were a little larger, showing that the stock Alta is sprung 1% stiffer than my well-tuned Husky, when adjusted for its weight + the weight of the rider. However, when the springs rates are compared to just the weight of the naked bike, they are 6% SOFTER. OMG! This is why it wallows, squats, pitches and bottoms out so much! The bike itself has a lot of inertia, including the pitch inertia. There is no other way to fix this but to stiffen the springs. So... I think I have reached a conclusion: I have to stiffen the springs proportionately to the original specs, approximately the same percentage front and rear. The static and race sag numbers will not match the traditional specs. I can make a reasonable static sag, or race sag, but NOT BOTH. I wonder if there are some suspension gurus here who have experience with re-springing bikes that are much heavier, much lighter, or have a much stiffer suspension, like the pro bikes. They can't match the same 35/100mm rule of thumb rear sag numbers either. So, please check my spreadsheet and let me know what you think. I am leaning towards Variant 2. Thank you for reading my post. - - - - - - - - Last thought: I cannot understand why people do not care about the decimal point in spring rate specs? For pete's sake, MXA and MX-Tech, 4.9 N/mm is NOT the same as 5.0 kg/mm! Race Tech has figured it out though, it appears.
  8. I made a quick video of how I run the power for accessories and such on all of my bikes. Thought it might help some others out too:
  9. Help request for non-running 00’ WR360 from Joaquin in Glenville NC 2000 Husqvarna WR360 History: Purchased used 19 August 2019, had been sitting in owner’s garage for 2-3 years unused. Owner said it was running when parked. The moto appeared used but in visually in very good condition. Has an R&D Husqvarna Australia decompression head and Victa auto-decompression valve. Original Kokusan rotor/stator and original CDI/Coil. Has FMF exhaust. After carburetor disassembly and cleaning, the engine idled briefly but stalled when throttle applied. Started with difficulty with throttle in open position – blew out decompression valve foam filter from housing. Found that the auto decompression valve stem was broken. Ordered a used long shaft valve and diaphragm rebuild kit in Australia and installed it. Exhaust removed to confirm there were no obstructions. Piston appeared visually good through exhaust port and through spark plug hole. Compression feels strong without decompressor, but much easier to turn over with it installed. Ran briefly (enough to get a psi reading) when compression tester put in place of decompression valve – used engine stop switch to stop engine. Saw small spark when checking spark plug (actuating kick starter by hand while viewing plug) Removed carburetor again to recheck pilot jet and adjust float height (17mm). Very brief, intermittent engine sputter since then (with/without choke), cleaned and checked all electrical connections, took continuity readings (the only values found were from online forums – no specifications found in service manual, please confirm values with my readings below). Changed fuel from canned 2 stroke (1:40) to self mix non ethanol 1:40 Removed flywheel rotor with OEM part to confirm woodruff key is present and to check stator timing mark aligned with case mark and visually inspect stator/rotor – all appear OK. (see continuity readings below). Latest – cannot get engine to fire with or without decompression valve ====================================================================================================== Electric Test Values Note, all connections cleaned (including engine/frame mount), stator visually inspected and timing mark to case confirmed (rotor removed and key is intact). Stator Trigger, Lighting, Charge Coil: 2.0 ohms (yellow to earth), from generator to voltage regulator Stator Pulse, Pickup Coil: 127 and 135 ohms (blue to light blue), from generator to CDI, two reading from two multimeters Ignition Coil – low tension: 1.0 ohms (white/blue to earth) Ignition Coil - high tension (total with cap) 18.8 ohms, without cap 14.0 ohms, cap only 4,8 ohms Engine Stop Switch: (white to earth, OK ground), from CDI to ground and black switch ground OK to ground CDI to Coil: (white/blue) 0.9 ohms to ground, (black/white), OK to ground Voltage Regulator: cleaned mount and contact (yellow to ground OK) Spark Plug NGK B8 EGV (new) with 0.6 mm gap Carburetor: Keihin PWK 38 – disassembled: appeared clean inside, no orifices obstructed Needle: Keihin DDJ Slide: 7 Main Jet: 172 Pilot Jet: 42 Pilot Screw (1.5 turns out) Idle Screw (1.5 turns out) Elevation: 3,500 feet Other: Victa Decompression Valve- rebuilt, functions correctly HiFloFiltro: cleaned/oiled FMF Gnarley Exhaust removed - no obstructions found Reed Valve removed - nothing unusual seen Intake Manifold Boot and Boot to air filter - both intact and pliable Fuel: Home Depot canned, synthetic two-stroke fuel 1:40 and non-ethanol 1:0 mix with Amsoil two stroke synthetic oil (both fuels 92 octane) Compression: 163 psi (engine ran briefly with compression gauge attached)
  10. Hi ya I've got problems with my 12 Wr250r electrics .. it was stolen a while back now as I was having surgery on my knee and got an infection, so it wasn't insured or registered. It was locked up on my back verandah with a front disc lock ( background done) .. The mongrels had it for a few hours before returned to me by detectives just enough hours time to chop and destroy the ignition , front disc rotor and fuel cap .. finally I've replace the noticeable problems but I don't have right hand indicator hi beam light is on the dash ven though it works fine and the temperature light stays on the dash , the fan doesn't seem to come on which is a worry . I've tried to do a diagnostic on the dash but that doesn't seem to work ( so I'm thinking that's my problems) at $400 bucks to replace or take it to Yamaha dealer where I bought it is expensive as it's my main commute for work (yes m all good now so it's time to get a job) any ideas would be great
  11. Hi experts, I just bought a FC450 2015 and took it to an Enduro competition few days later. The bike was great and running fine, no issues. Sometimes I stopped to wait my friends and turned the engine off to not overheat it, did this around 5 times without an issue, let's add that sometimes on the track I was on the wrong gear and killed the engine several times no big deal, pushed the button to start the bike and everything fine. Suddenly I stopped to drink some water and have some rest, then got back to the bike and hit the starter and it didn't start. The starter was working fine I was able to hear the engine cranking, I stopped and checked that the transmission was on neutral, and tried again and same thing. It tried for 15-20 seconds more and killed the battery. My friends helped me to push the bike and on 2nd gear I was able to turn the engine on. I ran for around 5-10kms to get back to my truck without an issue, I shut it down once I got it, and same thing... starter works, engine cranks but it wont start. I can hear the injection system preparing bike to start when I hit the button. Any idea? Thanks, Rob.
  12. Hi I want to turn my old GasGas (txt 280 '02) into an electric one can you suggest a site or special motors, batteries I could buy??
  13. 2018 ALTA REDSHIFT MXR I own a 2017 Alta Redshift MX. Yesterday Alta Motors had a demo day at Hollister Hills SVRA , south of San Francisco. I got to check out and ride the 2018 Alta Redshift MXR. Below is the review. MXA has never written an Alta review, so I will write one for them. Q: IS THE 2018 ALTA REDSHIFT MXR BETTER THAN THE 2017 ALTA REDSHIFT MX? A: You're damn right it is better. A whopping 20% increase in power, quicker charging, latest and greatest WP suspension, proper MX tires, grippier footpegs. And the most important change is the white plastic. Q: WHAT DID ALTA CHANGE ON THE MX(R) FOR 2018? A: A plenty of things that matter the most. So much that Alta had to introduce the MXR moniker. (1) New battery. Same 5.8KW capacity, but it can now be charged and discharged much quicker. Thanks to this, the bike can now produce 50HP, a whopping 20% increase. Kids, this is 50HP for you. The power and the hit of a 250 2-stroke with the delivery, the traction and control that is superior to that of a 4-stroke, and the holeshot acceleration that is faster the fastest 450. The 147 ft-lbs of torque is greater than in most 2.0L passenger sedans. Additionally, reportedly, the new battery has no thermal issues of the old battery, this is why it is possible to discharge it so much quicker, producing more power. And the re-charging now takes only 1.5 hours from a 240V source. The riding range is the same, but you can now drain that battery faster and charge it faster. (2) AER48 fork. The latest venerable WP air fork replaces the 4CS fork. That saves ~3 lbs. The bike's "fueled" weight is now 259 lbs. (3) The shock. The latest WP shock replaces the older WP shock. It also comes with a new linkage. The result is a ~10% motion ratio change. The new spring itself is probably softer, but the whole rear end is definitely stiffer. Pump up that AER fork and the bike is no longer undersprung. (4) White plastic. Gone is the Suzuki-yellow, we do not want to associate with that manufacturer. Thank you, Alta!!! (5) Footpegs. New less slippery and more grippy footpegs. Q: THE BURNING QUESTION ON THE MIND OF ALL CURRENT ALTA OWNERS: HOW CAN I ADD 20% MORE HP TO MY CURRENT REDSHIFT? A: You need to buy a new battery, flash a new software, and we suspect that's it. However we emailed this question to Alta today and are expecting a confirmation and the pricing details. Q: THE QUESTION ON THE MIND OF ALL FUTURE ALTA OWNERS: IS THIS BIKE A REAL MX BIKE? IT IS COMING TO MY TRACK? A: It is real, and it is coming. And it will beat your current bike weekend after weekend, after weekend. If you can't beat it -- buy it. Q: HOW IS THE POWER? A: Awesome. Instant. Plentiful. Ridiculously easy to control with a twist of the throttle. Say hello to power slides at both low and high speeds, and wheeling over obstacles. Absolute power corrupts absolutely. All my current bikes, with the exception of the classic '05 CRF and '95 CRs, are for sale. Q: HOW IS THE NEW SUSPENSION? A: The demo bike's fork was slightly underinflated compared to the rear, for my liking. But that's a 30-second fix, just do not get an arm pump before the race. The shock is valved very decently from the factory, but it could use more low-speed rebound damping. But I would not have hesitated racing this bike as-is. Q: HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO THE GAS-POWERED BIKES THAT ARE CURRENTLY ON THE MARKER? (1) Weight. It weighs 259 lbs, which is what YZ450F and RM450 weight when topped off with fuel. But, as a rider, you only feel this weight when lifting the bike onto the center stand. On the track, in motion, the bike feels as light as a 250cc 2-stroke. This is due to the lack of the rotating flywheel inertia. (2) Power. As it was said before, the power is awesome. The MXR will beat the 250cc bikes on any track. It will accelerate out of corners faster than the 450cc bikes. Being 10 HP short of the 450cc 4-strokes, it may not climb Mt. Helen as fast as the big bikes. But it will holeshot and will be running up front, and this is half of the victory. (3) Handling. It can turn tighter and cut under any other bike, including the proverbial Suzuki. Perhaps only a 125cc bike could rotate quicker. It is also super easy to place the Redshift anywhere on the track and get it to follow any line desired. Best of all, it does exactly as it is told and never does any weird unexpected kicks or tricks that happen due to a sudden rear wheel spin. (4) Ergonomics. Both the standing and the sitting positions good and feel right. The bike is on the narrow side. Some people like narrow bikes, but I like something a bit fatter between my lags. The "radiator shrouds" are a little bulging, and I hope Alta redesigns them in future models to make them flow with the seat and the frame a little better. The footpegs are located a little lower than on other bikes. On one hand, this creates more cockpit room. On the other, get used to riding properly on the balls of your feet with the toes in, else your toes can get banged up or hooked onto things. The footpegs are interchangeable with the YZ250F/YZ450F footpegs. (5) Bodywork. The plastic is made by Acerbis. The front fender and front number place have the same shape as the '09 CRF. There are a few dubious molded-in nuts in various plastic parts. Never over-tighten the screws that do into those nuts. Use medium or low-strength Loctite instead. Best of all, the Redshift boasts a no-tools air filter replacement. Just kidding! (6) Brakes. They are Brembo brakes, exact same as on all KTMs and Huskys. Q: WHAT ARE THE WORST ATTRIBUTES OF THE REDSHIFT, AND CAN THEY BE FIXED? A: There are a few small things. (1) Rear brake. The rear brake is too touchy. Having no flywheel inertia is equivalent to braking with the clutch pulled in. The solutions are several. The simplest one is to buy an add-on Rear Brake Return Spring made by Fasst Company. It makes the rear brake pedal easier to feel, and also makes it harder to lock up the rear wheel. Another solutions is to add a Left Hand Rear Brake (LHRB). Alta is working on this product, stay tuned. (2) Mud collector. A lot of mud gets collected under the motor. It is not easy to get to, even with a pressure washer. The solution is to use a skid plate. SXS makes one. Alta also makes one, which it installs on the EX models. Or you can cut your own MX skid plate from a sheet of plastic and attach it with a couple of bolts and zip ties. This will be not for protection but to keep the mud out. Q: IT IS WORTH UPGRADING OR TRADING UP FROM THE 2017 MX TO THE 2018 MXR? A: Probably. But you mileage may vary. The new MSRP prices are $10,495 for the 2018 MX and $11,995 for the MXR models. If you need more power and must recharge the battery quicker, then yes. However, the riding range is the same. I would not do it for the suspension, as it is likely to also need a revalve, eventually. Although the MXR suspension is race-ready from the factory, so you do not have to mess with it right away. Additionally, if you shelled out $15K for the 2017 model (you know who you are!), then you can surely spend a little more. Q: HOW DOES THE ALTA REDSHIFT COMPARE TO THE KTM FREERIDE E? A: Are you kidding? The Freeride is a 20hp moped with a cheap short travel suspension. No contest. Q: WHY WOULD ANYONE WANT AN ELECTRIC BIKE? A: It is fast. It is almost maintenance free. But the biggest reason is that it is so much fun! It might be painful to hear, but the Redshift is more fun that any 2-stroke. An instant response, always 'on the pipe', always in the right gear, no clutching, no starting, no stalling. It is quiet enough to ride in your backyard every day after work. In fact, this is what I am going to start doing. Q: DOESN'T IT SOUND LIKE AN RC CAR? THE 2-STROKE AND THUMPERS SOUND BETTER. A: It does sound a bit like an RC car. But listening to the sound of the rear tire throwing roost beats the crap out of BRA-A-A-AP. Q: WHAT DID WE HATE? (1) Rear brake. Buy a Fasst Rear Brake Return Spring and install it right away. You will need the KTM Brembo model. (2) Molded-in nuts. You will start hating them the first time you over-tighten one. Therefore, finger tighten those bolts and use a drop of Loctite to keep them in. (3) No noise. A quiet bike can be very good, until you need to get around someone at the track. You have to get too close or yell for them to notice you. I think Alta needs to sell an air horn as an option. Q: WHAT DID WE LIKE? A: The like list is: (1) Power. It is awesome, instant, plentiful, easily controllable. (2) Traction. In the 1st or 2nd mode, I climbed such hills that I was afraid to look at. (3) Handling. This is perhaps the best handling big bike ever made. (4) No noise. Yes, the no-noise made both the hate and the like list. No noise can be very good as well. (5) The sound. Hearing the rear tire slide, hook up, or throw roost is amazing. Q: WHAT DO WE REALLY THINK? A: The Alta Redshift MXR is definitely the most fun and the most radical new bike of the millennium. It is going to be popular. It is already competitive. Some people are curious. Some are ignoring it. Some are hating. The AMA is afraid of it, they probably want to ignore or dismiss it. But it is coming, whether they want it or not, and it is coming fast! We will still keep and never sell the gas-powered bikes that we love. We will still take them out to the track and make noise and roost dirt. But when the time comes to change oil, filters, adjust the valve clearances, or rebuild the top end, it is very likely that we will just roll out the electric one out of the garage and ride it instead. And then keep riding it, and riding it. Never underestimate the power of the lazy, or the size of the wallet of the guy who wants to holeshot and be the fastest on the track, or the determination of the guy who wants to have the most fun. The future of electric dirt bikes is looking very bright. 👍
  14. I just got got a 18 EXC-F 450 six Days about a month ago, already have 200miles of singletrack/Enduro on her. Can someone, anyone please explain the electrical system as it relates to powering auxiliary devices, (flood lights, heated grips, etc) How much wattage is available? How much wattage can I use without impacting the battery? Does the system switch from battery to stator after engine starts? dont be afraid to get technical, i can take it.
  15. Greetings Thumper Talk community, I've been using a 2002 DRZ 400 S as my daily driver all winter long without any kind of problems. Starting last week I have found the battery being depleting enough to not turn the starter motor. Using a jumper box I was able to get it running. After having the battery tested and replaced I assumed the problem was solved. Unfortunately this does not seem to be the case as the problem persisted. Checking with a multimeter and with the key in the OFF position there was no significant amp draw. So I'm not thinking there is a parasitic ground. Checked the stater and rectifier both seem to be in working order and with the bike running I could measure the voltage of the battery slowly increasing. Starting with a full charge by tender and 2 days of sporadic riding the battery is now down to 11.6 volts.. when I attempt to start it at 11.6 volts the neutral light heavily dims, and the starter motor sluggishly engages then stops. Assuming the new battery isn't faulty I am thinking there might be some short that is opened when the starter motor is engaged. But honestly I've no idea. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Side question: what voltage is required for the starter to start the bike? It was at 11.6V with the key in the off position and could barely turn over.
  16. https://enduro21.com/index.php/40-general/3121-yamaha-steps-into-e-bike-market Yamaha Motor Co. has announced the development of the TY-E electric trials bike to compete in the 2018 Trial-E Cup. It’s not enduro, of course, but it is interesting to see and it is hard not to find it a significant step for Yamaha. Focusing on a trial model for competition means e-bike development within Yamaha has started and will evolve – it is shorter step from trials to enduro than it is for the many millions invested by, for example, Honda and Mugen in electric street race bikes. Building an electric trials bike poses “development issues”, Yamaha says, such as creating high output of power from a small and lightweight motor. Harnessing the character of the power is a challenge they also say – in particular taking the high torque output and turning it into an easy, responsive and controllable character for off road use. Again, it is hard not to see that kind of talk as a developmental necessity if you were to produce an enduro model in the future. The TY-E comes straight from the company's "Evolving R&D" programme, in which Yamaha R&D employees are given the opportunity to work outside conventional frameworks and devote up to 5% of their working hours towards developing innovative new concepts. Yamaha TY-E Key Features: A high rotation type compact high-power electric motor High off-road performance with both powerful low speed torque and extended acceleration Sophisticated motor control technology which is responsive and produces a strong feeling of power from extremely low to high-speed ranges A mechanical clutch that ensures instantaneous power and control Optimised flywheel that combines with clutch to deliver excellent traction performance A newly designed compact high-output battery pack with compact and lightweight components Advanced CFRP monocoque frame that is at the lightest possible weight, while delivering optimal rigidity and battery storage space Slim bodywork that does not interfere with dynamic rider movement. The TY-E will compete in the 2018 FIM Trial-E Cup, with scheduled appearances at Auron in France on July 14-15, and at Comblain au Pont in Belgium on July 21-22. Kenichi Kuroyama – something of a legend in the sport who is currently competing in the All Japan Trial Championship – will represent the Yamaha Factory Racing Team during 2018
  17. Hi all, Bought a 2007 WR450F a couple months ago. Electric start was working fine, and worked for a few weeks without issue. Recently the red ignition button light stopped glowing when clicking the On/Off button and readying to start. I kick started to get it home without problem, and kicked to start a few time after that without problem. When I got around to looking into it, the battery read at 11V. I replaced the battery and a blown 10A fuse on the positive (right hand) side. Also noticed that the 90 degree inlet on the carb was leaking, so I replaced the 3 O-rings (# 3TJ-14564-40-00) to stop the leak. Upon starting, the bike idled fine, and ran great for about a half mile before dying. Again, red ignition button light stopped glowing. My *assumption* is that the fuse blew again, but I cannot yet confirm. I was on my way to work, so I haven't had time to look into it yet. I'm fairly strong mechanically, but don't know much about electrical. My guess is that this is not an easy fix-- maybe a short, and I'm looking for advice on where to start. I appreciate the help guys!
  18. Never heard about this
  19. Here is the official KTM press release for the KTM Freeride E-XC! MURRIETA, Calif. – As the global high-performance electric motorcycle market continues to grow, KTM is pleased to announce the launch of a READY TO RACE pilot program in North America involving the KTM FREERIDE E-XC, an electric version of the already-familiar KTM FREERIDE 250R motorcycle. Through this pilot program, the KTM FREERIDE E-XC is available in limited quantities and sold exclusively through select authorized KTM dealers in the U.S. Each of the 11 select dealerships have been certified through KTM’s high voltage technical training in order to service this new technology. Tom Etherington, VP of Sales, KTM North America, Inc.: “KTM has created this pilot program as a way to better understand the level of consumer interest in electric motorcycles, which will assist us in future planning when considering serial production of electric motorcycles in the coming years. The exciting part for consumers is that through this pilot program, the FREERIDE E-XC is available for a price that is substantially less than these models would sell for outside of this program.” The MSRP for the 2017 FREERIDE E-XC is $8,299 and the motorcycles are arriving now in limited quantities through the following select authorized KTM dealers: Moto City KTM in Avondale, Ariz. 3 Bros KTM of Orange County in Costa Mesa, Calif. CJ KTM of Murrieta in Murrieta, Calif. KTM of Roseville in Roseville, Calif. Malcolm Smith Motorsports in Riverside, Calif. Elite Motorsports KTM in Loveland, Colo. Larsons Cycle in Cambridge, Minn. Edelman’s KTM in Troy, N.Y. Solid Performance KTM in Downingtown, Penn. Adventure Powersports KTM in McKinney, Texas KTM of North Texas in Arlington, Texas KTM North America, Inc. is proud to venture into the zero-emission vehicle world with a purpose built motorcycle that could open the door to new and exciting riding areas and applications in the future. For more information on KTM’s dealer network, please visit www.ktm.com. We are taking pre-orders on these models with an estimated delivery of early to mid-August. If you would like to reserve one or have any questions please feel free to contact me: Scott Elite Motorsports 970-461-1022 scott@elitektm.com
  20. Hey Everyone, I just wanted to give everyone an update on how the Alta Redshift MX did at the RMEC Hard Rock Enduro in Colorado. Don was able to get a 2nd place finish (would have been first if not for a flat rear tire) in the A 50 + class and 17th overall. The bike was absolutely amazing on the technical rocky terrain. Race Info: 6 laps that averaged 23 minutes per lap a little over 2 hours of actual racing time Don was able to sneak in about 35-40 minutes of charging total using a 220v generator. Raced the entire race in Map 1 on the Alta The Alta does require a little more strategy for Longer format Enduro racing, but it is very competitive against gas bikes! Here is the link to the YouTube video of the race from Don's helmet cam.
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