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Found 74 results

  1. I've had my 96 XR600R for almost a year now and am by no means an expert mechanic, but I know enough to do basic-intermediate maintenance. The most recent issue I've had involves what I believe to be some sort of electrical issue. First things first, it has been running obscenely rich despite downsizing to a 62 (stock) pilot jet and 155 main at sea level with upgraded muffler. This made me suspicious of some electrical issue that prevents a full spark from getting to the spark plug. It wasn't until after 20-30 mins of street riding that I noticed the rpms at idle begin dropping at idle. Finally, they dropped too low and the bike just died at a stop light. I waited about 5 mins and will a little more effort than usual was able to get the bike started in 2-3 kicks and got it home. The insulation on the prongs of the ignition coil is cracked pretty bad and there is a fair amount of dirt and dust in that area directly under the tank. Other than that, the insulation for the wiring looks solid. I just checked the valve clearances today (had similar symptoms from tight valves months ago) and they're in spec. Bike starts first or second kick every time and has no issues until the bike gets hot and the rpms drop. I've noticed when cruising the bike seems like it misses a fire and the bike jerks ever so slightly, but other than that it has power and rides well and rarely backfires. Does anyone have any advice for narrowing down what is causing the issue or has had similar problems and knows a solution?? I know stators are known to go out on these old thumpers but it seems like that would also lead to problems when the bike is warming up? Are stators known to lose power when the bike is hot? Could it be the CDI? Ignition Coil? Any help would be appreciated!
  2. as anyone that rides an xcf knows we are 100% dependent on our batteries. My XCF is street legal with a light kit. But I need to add a fan as the bike is a Pizza Oven in the woods. My question, I have 70W to play with as I upgraded the stator. Can I run my additional loads (lights/fan) off the battery terminals and still expect the battery to keep charge? Or do I need to wire in a separately derived system?
  3. 2006 DR650 The issue began suddenly one day when I was running the bike in the garage. I started the bike with a battery tender attached, it ran for a while, then I turned it off. When I tried to restart, nothing happened. Everything seems fine, all the electrical works fine, the battery is fine (I tested it), the 30A fuse is also fine. I bypassed the starting solenoid and the bike starts right up, so I assumed the solenoid was bad and replaced it with a new one. It still won't start. I may be missing something obvious, but I'm stuck. The only thing different is that I started it with the battery tender attached, which I've never done, but I read that's ok. Why will it only start when the solenoid is bypassed?
  4. So I'm putting together a pit bike and I ran into a problem with getting no spark but when I held the ground wire I got a shock any ideas I'm not good on electrical
  5. I’ve been searching for the last week or so for a nice used bike and have found a very nice 07 250 sxf. My problem is that I have not found any kind of aftermarket stator to allow for lights, fan, or other electrical accessories I might add to make the bike more trail worthy. Ive googled, searched this forum, and checked several online vendors to no avail. Any info you guys have would be appreciated. Zach
  6. Hi all, I have a 2004 honda crf250r and it wont start hot at all. The motor was just rebuilt with a new cylinder and piston. The valves were just adjusted. It will start cold in 1 or 2 kicks with choke but as soon as it gets hot it wont start. If you bump start it the motor will just turn over without starting. sometimes it will start. It runs great until you shut it off. im thinking its either a fuel issue or an electrical issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  7. So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress. My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light. Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running. I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals. And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.
  8. Hello all, So I've been dealing with this particular issue for a while now and I can't find the issue. A couple months back I was riding home from work one night when I turned on the high beams and pop goes the headlight. Blinkers still working and brake lights still working when I pull the front brake lever and rear brake pedal but the headlight and running brake light not so much. I made it home safely and just figured I would look at things in the morning. After a little research I found that the 10a fuses like to pop and that most people switch to a 15a. the next day I start taking a look. Headlight bulb and brake bulb are fine and fuse was not blown. I still upgraded the fuse to a 20a just to be on the safe side. Still nothing. I noticed the left rear blinker with some rust on the outside and opened it up to see a completely ruined blinker so i thought maybe that would be the case but I think that was me just being irrational. No way a rusty blinker could blow just the headlight. So after a few weeks of more research and asking questions, my best bet was to get a volt meter and test wires to see if there is a short somewhere. I hadn't had time to take a whole day and start testing it until recently since I am a bartender and have been out of work amid this Covid-19 situation. So today I cleaned and tested all electrical contacts and connectors that would link directly to the headlight. They all tested fine and weren't shorted with another wire. I'm also not extremely comfortable using a volt meter and can't say for sure I used it correctly. I cleaned the headlight switch and all contacts in that housing. Tested each connector under the tach and speedometer.All tested fine to my knowledge. I'm at a loss. I don't know what else it could be. All relays are working and all fuses are fine. At this point I just want to say screw it and get an entirely new harness but as we all know we like to do it ourselves and for the cheapest price here in KLR world. Any suggestions as to what is going on here that I'm missing? Also i cant find any pinched or rubbed thin wires that may cause a short. Thanks for reading guys and I hope to hear from you soon.
  9. I need some help figuring out what is going on with my bike. I have an 04 WR450F, and I was riding 5 miles of hell over the weekend. Right before the last escape route (lucky me) my bike just died. I was starting up a climb, and right at the base, it just shut down. I didn't hit anything, don't even think there was much of a bump or anything to jolt the bike. I did have a few lay downs/get offs before, but nothing here. The light on the power button wouldn't turn on, and there was no power to the headlight. I found out that I could kick start it, but it was very difficult, it took a LOT of kicking before it would start, and then it would stall if I ever let off the gas. As I was trying to figure out what was going on, I saw some white plastic (?) pieces falling out from under the headlight/front number plate. I pulled off the headlight and saw an electrical part (I assume it's like a resistor or something like that), it looked like it had been jarred loose, and got pinched by the steering, and broke it. It is a white rectangular piece, looks and feels sort of like hard plastic, about 2" long, 3/4" wide and probably only about 1/4" thick, and has 2 male quick connectors on it. Inside (since it broke, I could see, usually you wouldn't, but maybe it will help figure out what it is), is a thin wire coil, like a spring, and I'm not sure what it is wrapped around, maybe just an insulator. I tried to wrap it with some electrical tape to insulate it while riding back, but it melted the tape, and was smoking. I'm not sure where the 2 wires that connect to it go, they go back into a cluster of wires on the wiring harness, and I didn't have time to cut it all apart, and follow them, but that is the only damage that I could see, so I'm hoping that if I can figure out what this part is, and find a replacement, that will fix my problem. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  10. I just picked up a new 18 Xtrainer and I must say, I'm Xcited for spring. I drove it home through yesterday's east coast snow storm. While waiting on the certificate of origin from the dealer, I'm going to be working on installing turn signals to get it street legal here in VA I have a set of 12v LED strips that I think I want to mount on the hand guards. I originally bought them to use a turn signals, but I think I want to use them as running lights. After looking at the wiring diagram, I think the best option for getting power would be the parking lamp in the headlight. Does anyone have any better suggestions?
  11. So I have a parasitic drain on my battery. I thought I traced it to the Regulator Rectifier but I switched that out and still get the same draw. When I remove the Reg/REc the draw goes away. So for you electrical experts: By adding the reg/rec I am closing a circuit, correct? I tested the connector that leads to the reg/rec. With the negative off the battery, I put one lead from the multi meter on the battery negative and one to the brown wire on the connector. This gave me the same amp reading as when the reg/rec is connected. My thought is I have a short in the wire harness or a component down the line. Would a short pull amps?
  12. Ive had my 2007 CRF450X for about a year now, bought it from someone who was using it for dual sport duty. I basically trailer it and ride singletrack and maybe 10% road so I do not need the DS kit on it. I hate the keyed ignition, the clunky light/turn/kill switch, and the mess of wires behind the headlight. I have removed all the turn signals and the bike has a TrailTech which I want to upgrade. The whole kit seems spliced in and Im not sure I want to just remove stuff and not be able to get it to fire up, Has anyone installed or removed this kit? Does anyone have any suggestions parts-wise for replacing the kill-switch button back to stock and making sure the thing still runs after I take the kit off? I plan to run an off-road LED light bar and just a basic front plate. Thanks for the suggestions!
  13. Hi I'm Shelby, and new to the mechanic world. I just shimmed my valves, cleaned the carb, and rebuilt my water pump. Started it up and it fired up first kick. Ran for ten minutes and died. Wouldn't start for about ten min. Once I let it sit, it started back up and ran fine. Then died when it got got again. I checked the stator and it reads 17 ohms. The other wire read 240 ohms. What else could it be? Could the stator still be shorting out when hot? thanks for the help in advance!
  14. First image has story and background, to summarize the bike ran "great" before "a groundhog chewed the stator wire" following which it would not start, the last few images are of the old stator which the owner had attempted to rewire "exactly the way they were found" to bypass the chewed sections with no success. I have since noted that there is no spark, replaced plug with parts store acclaimed "equivalent" to the NGK CR8EK which says Autolite 4403 Copper Core and gapped plug @ .6mm / .024" replaced wire / distributor cap there is no killswitch hooked up but "ran fine before without one" and owner was "using the decompression valve" as a killswitch, i advised him to discontinue that method. i used a voltage checker (one of those AA battery powered beepers idk if that would detect it) and did not note any power coming from stator, case, wires, or coil / distributor wire Are there any multimeter tricks I could do to determine source of issue? Is this supposed to be a dry stator and is the oil noted in case of stator an issue?
  15. First image has story and background, to summarize the bike ran "great" before "a groundhog chewed the stator wire" following which it would not start, the last few images are of the old stator which the owner had attempted to rewire "exactly the way they were found" to bypass the chewed sections with no success. I have since noted that there is no spark, replaced plug with parts store acclaimed "equivalent" to the NGK CR8EK which says Autolite 4403 Copper Core and gapped plug @ .6mm / .024" replaced wire / distributor cap there is no killswitch hooked up but "ran fine before without one" and owner was "using the decompression valve" as a killswitch, i advised him to discontinue that method. i used a voltage checker (one of those AA battery powered beepers idk if that would detect it) and did not note any power coming from stator, case, wires, or coil / distributor wire Are there any multimeter tricks I could do to determine source of issue? Is this supposed to be a dry stator and is the oil noted in case of stator an issue?
  16. Hi again everyone, Couple questions for you all. Mysteriously, mid ride last season, all the lighting on my 1971 TS250 stopped working for no apparent reason. The bike still runs fine, and the neutral and tail light will still work as long as the battery is charged. In trying to track this down, using the attached wiring diagram as reference, I found the unlabeled 'black box' between the magneto and ignition switch - when running, there is no voltage on the far side of this box, and there is no label on the diagram to tell me what that box is responsible for. Can any of you clue me in? Thank you much, BushmanTahou
  17. I recently rebuilt a 2001 CR250. It ran when I bought it but it had a crack in the left side of the crank case near the flywheel cover, I'm guessing oil got in when I ran it (like an idiot), and it bogged down and shut off on me after 15 minutes of riding and wouldn't start back up. I since replaced the left side crank case, painted the frame, and put her back together. I did a spark test and got no spark. Forgot to sand down some grounding spots so I did that. Didn't want to take the whole motor out so I sanded as best as I could between engine and engine mounts. Still got nothing. I assumed from my research it was the CDI. Bought an aftermarket HPI CDI box. Still nothing. Got an electrosport stator that came with the wiring harness and pick up coil, still nothing. Got a new kill switch and ignition coil. STILL nothing. Put an extra ground harness from a bolt on the crankcase to a sanded spot on the frame.. annnd nothing.. Anyone have any suggestions? I used a multimeter (when I had access to one) on the old components, they seemed to read just fine.. Is it even worth my time getting my hands on another multimeter to test an all brand new electrical system? Desperate here and trying to avoid taking her to the shop someone please help!!
  18. I have a lighting question... I have a 1993 Suzuki DR250P it came stock with a headlight and taillight that runs off of the engine and the bike has no battery. I would like to put an additional light in the headlight shroud vent under the factory headlight (small rectangle 'vent' spot in the shroud under the headlight) . I know I probably need a very low watt light, but since the lights runs off the engine is there a maximum watt that I need to keep in mind? the factory light is not great and my funds are very limited right now. So upgrading the factory headlight to some over priced brand new set up is not an option, i'm looking for a super cheap LED light (around $5 to $20) that will fit in the lower vent on the headlight shroud.. Probably 1&1/2" tall (2" tall max) and (1&1/4" tall is ideal), by 4" long (4&1/2 ideal) 5" max width. i'll be hooking up a switch so I can turn the 'extra' light off in daytime and turn it on at night for road use. i'd appreciate any exact fitment lights that others have put in this same spot. I've seen other endure/baja bikes with extra lights in this spot and love the way they look and would love to find one that fits perfect although I have a background in fabrication and can make about anything mount sturdy with custom hand made mounts etc if needed... i'm just having questions about what 'watt' should be my max (or my target watt light) since the lights work off of the engine (and if anyone has put a light here and what they used, and how it worked.) appreciate any recommendations or advice, Thanks
  19. Hi guys, My problem started with this: I went for a quick ride for learning wheelies. The bike was running good for the whole time then I stopped for a little break. After that when I wanted to start the bike it but wouldn't start. The starter motor cranked but nothing happened. After a few tries I noticed that when I pushed the starter button a slight smoke(wich smelled like burnt plastic) came from the bottom of the fuel tank. Ok I tought it is a short so I pushed the bike home instead of trying it more times. Next day I pulled off the fuel tank and checked for burnt cables. I found out that the ground wire which is fixed under the ignition coil burnt down. I replaced it and tried to start the bike. When I started it the replaced wire started to get hot instantly. Ok, I tought it will be something else. I searched for anything else. I found that the ground wire which comes directly from the battery came off from the frame. I screwed back to the frame. After I tried to start again, the ignition coil ground wire didn't got hot that time but it didn't do a single spark. So i tried several thing in the last few weeks. I bought a new ignition coil, hired my friends working CDI and tested with is, bought a new aftermarket stator(Electrex, wich is english made), took apart the whole wiring harness looking for a burnt wire and checked all of the plugs for burning or someting that is not correct. All of these seems to be okay so now I'm clueless what it can be. The bike is a 2005 E model which is converted into an SM. It has an SM wiring harness with some modifications(side stand switch bypassed, clutch switch bypassed, horn, fan and neutral switch plugs not used).
  20. Hey TT, first post here so thought I'd intro myself as well. Been a long time lurker, but moving through a project 83 xt250 sohc, I realised I would definitely need to be asking for some advice. So here goes. I think I've got a short. Ha - yeah I know, could be anything. I've unplugged all the lights, controls, tacho & speedo and whilst the fuse (15amp) doesn't blow immediately, it does start to heat up fairly quickly with what appears to be a short somewhere in the main harness. Before I start stripping it to see if there is any exposed wires etc, I thought I'd see if any one had any experience with any obvious or common areas to look or check. Appreciate that electrical issues can be a bit of a black hole but thought I'd check to see if anyone else had experienced something similar before I start really tearing into it.
  21. So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but theyre all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  22. Hello everybody, I am in the process of converting my 2004 Honda XR400 into a supermoto. In order to do so i need a headlight with Hi/Low capability to pass street inspection. From what i see with the stock headlight bulb it only supports low beam ability. I want to keep the stock headlight frame if possible while doing the conversion. I have read that some people have found H3 bulbs that are dual filament, which would be ideal for me, but i cant seem to find these bulbs for sale anywhere. At this point it seems that i may have to just order an aftermarket headlight like a polisport or something just to get the hi/low beam capability, which is unfortunate. If anyone has any tips or suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  23. looking for an upgraded headlight for my 98 300exc. when i got it the PO put a hid kit on it, but since it doesnt have a battery it isnt that bright even when revving... im also powering a weak rear running light/tag light when i flip my headlights on. Looking for a decent upgrade that wont break the bank. thanks!
  24. Does anybody know how much power the WR's brake light draws? Talking about the actual brake light, not just the running light.
  25. HI guys, last post recieved great help so hoping the same here, basically I think I’m experiencing some timing issues on my 02 rm125. The timing marks on the magneto were slightly out by like a degree or less, in favour of an earlier spark, worried that I was gunna fry the piston, I moved the timing marks by a degree in favour of a later spark just for piece of mind that I wasn’t harming my freshly rebuilt engine, since doing this o think I can hear the bike ‘pinging’ when riding at a steady speed, and has developed a ticking noise from the top end, it runs okay maybe a little splutter before the valve opens and possibly down on power a little but I ride a sports bike so maybe it’s just not that fast compared, but once it’s cleared out it sings through the gears as it should, can anyone help? Will post a picture of current position on magneto, also I haven’t proper tool for measuring tdc but by feel on the fly wheel this is pretty much where it’s at, that can’t be right considering the crank turns anti clockwise?
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