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Found 61 results

  1. DualsportRider12

    electrical Charging Question

    Just installed a new Trail Tech 100 Watt High Output DC Electrical System for Yamaha WR450F 2003-2004 with a brand new battery (130CCA). I am getting 13.6VDC at the battery terminals with the bike at 5000rpms. The owners manual says that you are supposed to 14.1~14.9v @ 50000rmps on the red and black connectors (leads) under the tank. I forgot to check those before installing the tank back. Is 14.1~14.9v what I am supposed to get at the battery terminals as well? Thanks
  2. XR600Rider650

    1996 Honda XR 600R stalling issue

    I've had my 96 XR600R for almost a year now and am by no means an expert mechanic, but I know enough to do basic-intermediate maintenance. The most recent issue I've had involves what I believe to be some sort of electrical issue. First things first, it has been running obscenely rich despite downsizing to a 62 (stock) pilot jet and 155 main at sea level with upgraded muffler. This made me suspicious of some electrical issue that prevents a full spark from getting to the spark plug. It wasn't until after 20-30 mins of street riding that I noticed the rpms at idle begin dropping at idle. Finally, they dropped too low and the bike just died at a stop light. I waited about 5 mins and will a little more effort than usual was able to get the bike started in 2-3 kicks and got it home. The insulation on the prongs of the ignition coil is cracked pretty bad and there is a fair amount of dirt and dust in that area directly under the tank. Other than that, the insulation for the wiring looks solid. I just checked the valve clearances today (had similar symptoms from tight valves months ago) and they're in spec. Bike starts first or second kick every time and has no issues until the bike gets hot and the rpms drop. I've noticed when cruising the bike seems like it misses a fire and the bike jerks ever so slightly, but other than that it has power and rides well and rarely backfires. Does anyone have any advice for narrowing down what is causing the issue or has had similar problems and knows a solution?? I know stators are known to go out on these old thumpers but it seems like that would also lead to problems when the bike is warming up? Are stators known to lose power when the bike is hot? Could it be the CDI? Ignition Coil? Any help would be appreciated!
  3. I’ve been searching for the last week or so for a nice used bike and have found a very nice 07 250 sxf. My problem is that I have not found any kind of aftermarket stator to allow for lights, fan, or other electrical accessories I might add to make the bike more trail worthy. Ive googled, searched this forum, and checked several online vendors to no avail. Any info you guys have would be appreciated. Zach
  4. 2006 DR650 The issue began suddenly one day when I was running the bike in the garage. I started the bike with a battery tender attached, it ran for a while, then I turned it off. When I tried to restart, nothing happened. Everything seems fine, all the electrical works fine, the battery is fine (I tested it), the 30A fuse is also fine. I bypassed the starting solenoid and the bike starts right up, so I assumed the solenoid was bad and replaced it with a new one. It still won't start. I may be missing something obvious, but I'm stuck. The only thing different is that I started it with the battery tender attached, which I've never done, but I read that's ok. Why will it only start when the solenoid is bypassed?
  5. Master Chief XCF

    2016 350 XCF Electrical

    as anyone that rides an xcf knows we are 100% dependent on our batteries. My XCF is street legal with a light kit. But I need to add a fan as the bike is a Pizza Oven in the woods. My question, I have 70W to play with as I upgraded the stator. Can I run my additional loads (lights/fan) off the battery terminals and still expect the battery to keep charge? Or do I need to wire in a separately derived system?
  6. Ryan6262

    72cc pit bike wiring

    So I'm putting together a pit bike and I ran into a problem with getting no spark but when I held the ground wire I got a shock any ideas I'm not good on electrical
  7. Dean William

    Electrical issues

    So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress. My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light. Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running. I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals. And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.
  8. I would like to put a headlight and possibly a tail light. I was told I'd have to wire it to the stator. I'm not familiar with the stator and not too comfortable messing with it. I found a battery pack that runs off the stator but I don't know how to hook it up. What if I get like a small enough marine battery to fit under my seat and just hook the wires up to that? Please help. I would love the advice and tips. Thanks!!
  9. I'm looking to convert my xr650r to full DC power and was wondering if anyone here was using a terminal bus bar ? something like this one : https://www.amazon.com/DSC-TB01-Terminal-Block-Splits-Input/dp/B005K49NMW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510464051&sr=8-2&keywords=bus+bar&dpID=310kVzto9uL&preST=_QL70_&dpSrc=srch I'm looking to make the wiring a bit more simplified if possible, and have a single organized place like this that everything can connect to and run to battery would be incredibly useful. Thoughts ? Suggestions ?
  10. I bought a non-running 2015 Crf450r from a guy who said that the local honda shop said it needed a new ECU. The bike has maybe 20 hours on it tops it is spotless. I changed the ECU and got nothing. Started to dig deeper and found out it had no compression. The nikasil (however it is spelled) had completely flaked off the upper third of the cylinder. Replaced the cylinder and put in a new piston still nothing. Swapped out the fuel tank in case the pump was bad, nothing. Checked all electrical connections and everything looks good. After a bunch of headache, finally got the bike to start by spraying starting fluid in the cylinder AND applying an external power source to the fuel pump. Once the bike starts up, it idles fine, revs fine, etc. However, it WILL NOT start without the external power source. Since finding this out, we have replaced the stator and tested all of the connections going to the ECU for a break or bad connection. Still nothing without the power source and starting fluid at the beginning. I am lost at this point as far as where to look next. Any suggestions or tips would be very much appreciated.
  11. Boneyfreak

    xl600r 1987

    So I got this xl600r and going over it replacing this and broken that. Tail lights, brake light all work great-13.7+ V @ battery But @ a/c regulator only 6-7v A/C and same at headlight connector with lamp still plugged in. Headlight only lights when @ 1500rpm or greater and only like it would if starved of Vac. a/c Regulator tested and no short Stator headlight winding to ground test 3.1 ohms Headlight dimmer switch just completely cleaned (taken apart) and ohm'd out prior to reinstall Wiring harness connections gone over and cleaned Stator need replacing? Anyone ever have a weak hdlight output due to the stator windings building less resistance?
  12. Hi all, Bought a 2007 WR450F a couple months ago. Electric start was working fine, and worked for a few weeks without issue. Recently the red ignition button light stopped glowing when clicking the On/Off button and readying to start. I kick started to get it home without problem, and kicked to start a few time after that without problem. When I got around to looking into it, the battery read at 11V. I replaced the battery and a blown 10A fuse on the positive (right hand) side. Also noticed that the 90 degree inlet on the carb was leaking, so I replaced the 3 O-rings (# 3TJ-14564-40-00) to stop the leak. Upon starting, the bike idled fine, and ran great for about a half mile before dying. Again, red ignition button light stopped glowing. My *assumption* is that the fuse blew again, but I cannot yet confirm. I was on my way to work, so I haven't had time to look into it yet. I'm fairly strong mechanically, but don't know much about electrical. My guess is that this is not an easy fix-- maybe a short, and I'm looking for advice on where to start. I appreciate the help guys!
  13. I have done a lot of reading, research, trouble shooting, and work before I posted this. I apologize for how long this post is, but wanted to include all the details of what I've done to keep the thread in the right direction. So, I am having issues with my bike, and have done a ton of trouble shooting. Let me start of by saying I have checked my timing about 13 times, and have three other people verify it as well….I don’t think timing is an issue. I’ve also disconnected the kill switch. I’ve also rebuilt 4 top ends on various YZ250Fs in the past, however this is my first FI bike. My Bike: 2014 YZ250F GYTR head, FMF Ti Exhaust, 51 hours. Primarily ride track and race C Class (8-10 events per year). Work performed this time on the bike: Timing chain, a new 2015 stock piston, wrist pin, rings, and wristpin oil spray. Verify valve clearance after install, and rotation. I checked the cylinder, piston, rings, for clearance and tolerances. I checked the crank for tolerance as well. The piston has the F mark towards the front of the bike (which correlates with the intake valves, larger sized) (NO SPARK ISSUE): I put the bike back together and it would not start, no sputter, no burp, nothing. I diagnosed it as a no spark. I checked the timing and valve clearance (its dead on, and yes I know the exhaust valves go towards the rear of the bike), I checked the chain tension as well. I was trying to ground the plug to the valve screw and or the frame. I Disconnected and inspected all connections off the wiring harness, and checked for any fraying especially up around the radiators/frame area (all looked good). I followed the manual checking resistance on the kill switch, primary and secondary coil, spark plug cap, crankshaft position sensor, stator, checked ground, spark plug resistance and gap (also a new spark plug). I made sure the ECU was in the upright position. However, I was a retard and measured the secondary resistance of the coil including the cap…so it was 9k ohms over. I thought this was the issue, so I purchased and installed a new coil…but found this mistake after I already installed it. I pulled the clutch in and kicked the bike and Finally got spark!! My neutral switch is directly hardwired into the harness, so I could not pull it to check resistance. And for some bizarre reason, I get spark every time with or without the clutch pulled in. So the no spark issue should be cured....I think (see last few paragraphs). (I'm only able to see the spark when the spark plug is grounded to the frame, I don’t have the tool to inspect what happens when its installed in the head. I still am having trouble with a no start (next step CHECK FUEL SYSTEM) With spark figured out I’m still not getting a start, a sputter, any sign of life. I checked the timing again (its dead on). I checked the woodruff key on the flywheel, and can shine a light down the keyway and see the woodruff key in the keyway. I also checked that TDC is actually the same as what is marked on the flywheel by putting a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole and rotate the motor to see its highest position. I checked the timing again (its dead on). I dug deeper into the electrical system. I checked that I get voltage spikes from the stator, rectifier, and condenser. Unfortunately, my multimeter is just a handyman’s so it doesn’t hold the peak voltage, and takes the RMA so the spikes are lower than expected. However, I do see a spike in voltage for each of the electrical components listed above. I grabbed a GYTR programmer and connected it to the bike, No trouble codes showed. I checked the timing again (its still dead on). I continued looking into the fuel system. I set up a system to clean the injector with brake cleaner and a 9 volt battery, spraying cleaner into the fuel nipple and pulsing the injector. It sprays a large good mist, and did from the first spray. I then pulled the tank and connected the 9 volt battery to the fuel pump and can hear it spin. Checked the TPS with the GYTR programmer and shows no errors (throttle 5 deg at 0 and 88 deg at open I know I can adjust this better, but should not be a no start issue). I kicked 150 or so times. Variation of throttle open, closed, mid, Cold start open, closed….nothing. I pulled the plug and the plug shows only a little wet residue on the furthest parts from the electrode. The piston has a sheen of fuel when you shine a light down. The fuel line is not pinched, and you cannot squeeze the line, which is telling me the fuel pump is working, and the injector is spraying fuel. I also disconnected the fuel to injector connection and fuel sprayed like it was under a significant amount of pressure. As I was using compressed air (about 50 psi) to blow out the residual fuel from the top off the piston, I noticed air blowing out the exhaust. I rotated the motor to TDC, checked the timing, and blew again, still a bit of leak by…..ahhh leaky valves causing leak by and not allowing spark. I verified the valve clearance and it was still right in spec. Phase 2 So I pulled the head off to pull apart the valves. I found a bit of carbon buildup on the valves, and assume that during the cleaning, some of the carbon deposits were removed, and others weren’t which masked the valve clearance and sealing. Looking at my head, it needs seats to be cut and new valves. Fortunately, I know someone at Yamaha, and I had a spare GYTR head sitting in a box with 0 hours on it.....same part number as my existing one. I assembled the head, checked the valve clearance and timing. Rotated the motor lightly, and checked the timing and valve clearance again and chain tension. I kicked the motor over a few times, and checked the timing and valve clearance again. I also checked the timing chain tension, and the tensioner is doing its job. Assembled everything back together…….and still no spark…..WHAT the hell!!??!?! Checked the spark, and I still have spark. I tried spraying starter fluid in the intake and kicking….nothing. Sprayed starter fluid in the spark plug hole and then install the spark plug, still nothing. I checked the timing again, still dead nuts on. Had two other people verify the timing. I tried bump starting it, it sounded like bump starting a 2T with a fouled plug, just bog, bog, bog, wheel lock. Since there was absolutely no sputter, or sound of life with starter fluid, I’m thinking that it’s a electrical issue or a spark issue when the spark plug is attached to the motor. Thinking it might be a grounding issue, I pulled the ground wire off the frame (it looks as clean as the day it was installed), and reinstalled it. Still nothing. I am getting a fairly bright blue spark when grounded to the frame. I double checked the gap, and also tried a new plug....still nothing. I am now at a loss and feel like a retard. I really want to get back and ride some moto. I have talked with Yamaha on the phone a few times, and have helped me thus far. They have been great, but I'm a stubborn engineer, and would prefer to fix this on my own. I'm thinking the next steps are pulling the fly wheel and check the key (although I would think that verifying that TDC with the location of the mark on the fly wheel would prove this is accurate). Then replacing the Condenser, Stator, and/or ECU, then cam position sensor. I apologize for the extra long post, and have read and searched here and Vital (yes I saw the TPS thread on the 2015 YZ250F). Are there any other directions I should try, any other things I'm missing?…or should I give up and send it into a shop/dealer to diagnose? Thank you Joe
  14. When thinking about your motorcycle and what are the most important components, would you say spark plugs is one of them? Most people wouldn’t…but they should. Because spark plugs can make or break your bike! Let’s take some time to see why spark plugs are so important and how to harness the power of your plugs in the real world. Next: What’s New in Spark Plug Technology? What’s New in Spark Plug Technology? Glancing at a modern spark plug, you’d barely see any differences between it and one from years past, but a closer look under the cladding reveals spark plugs have gotten a lot more efficient…and more expensive. Standard plugs are designed for a much shorter life when installation is in cast-iron heads, and that cycle doesn’t require newer electrodes with gold, platinum or iridium because you replace them before they exceed this replacement interval. Fast forward to today, and plugs are designed to last 100K miles and require these advancements in order to meet the newer longer-life specifications. This expense is due to a number of advancements that spark plug manufacturers have incorporated into their products, things like: Iridium - Iridium is the new “miracle metal” that is the main reason for the higher cost of premium spark plugs and is also in demand for usage in cell phones and sunglasses. What advantages does Iridium offer? Iridium is up to six times harder than platinum, and has a much higher melting point which makes the plug last much longer. Iridium allows for a much smaller surface area electrode, resulting in a more concentrated spark pulse and requires a lower voltage to reach ignition point. Iridium is highly resistant to corrosion and demonstrates a lowered arc erosion specification. These all seem like great things, and they are, but they come at a cost. Example: A “standard” Honda XR250R spark plug cost is $2.50 and the “iridium” version costs $10.99, so that’s a huge price differential. Expanded electrode surfaces - This is a fancy name for the new field of funky electrodes you see on plugs such as the Bosch “+4, +4 and IR Fusion” and the E3 “DiamondFire” plug types. E3 claims the development of a diamond shaped design with a center electrode tip that exposes multiple edges to an engine's combustion space creates higher efficiency. And because electrical impulses naturally follow the path of least resistance, the E3 electrode provides a well-formed spark. When tested, this configuration resulted in a better burn of the compressed air-fuel mixture before the beginning of the exhaust cycle. Bosch claims the Platinum+4's firing technology combines surface air gap technology, four “yttrium-enhanced” ground electrodes, and a heat-fused center electrode with the most platinum, creating “the most powerful spark you can buy.” It makes sense that expanded electrode areas would provide additional areas to arc to, creating a more efficient ignition phase. Capacitive element technology - This is a secondary advancement in spark plug technology and has been pioneered by vendors such as Pulstar. This is simply a capacitor-type element that is contained in the body of the spark plug, and this element stores input ramp voltages until it reaches peak power, releasing the voltage to the electrode at point of best ignition. Pulstar claims that this technique increases peak power and current during the resistive phase of the spark, as well as increasing electrical to plasma transfer efficiency to over 50% from less than 1%. Pulstar also has with inconel centerwire electrodes, which perform at higher levels than fine wire iridium electrodes, which also outperform conventional inconel electrodes found in conventional spark plugs. In talking with Pulstar’s President and Founder, Louis Camilli, we asked: “What factors make the Pulstar plug more (or less) attractive to motorcycle owners? And his reply was: “Because ignition of the fuel charge occurs more consistently at point of ignition signal, an improvement in combustion stability occurs delivering smoother operation and quicker throttle response. Acceleration through the gears is quicker as well as average torque increases.” Many more claims have been made about the performance aspects and potential benefits of this capacitive discharge technology and some are substantiated in at least one study that you can read here. Capacitive plugs are at the high end of the manufacturer’s offerings today, but have shown some promising results in both standard and higher performance vehicles. We used some of the Pulstar plugs as part of this article in our 2008 YZ125 and so far so good. We were going to take photos but the plug still looks brand new! So if you replace your plugs often, do you need these more expensive alternatives? We believe the answer in most cases is need…no, but do you want these attributes…yes! Why? Because many ThumperTalk members own recreational use motorcycles that see short-duration, extreme heat/duty cycles in competition events like motocross, enduro and enthusiastic track days, and this places added stresses on the electrode and surrounding materials, breaking them down and in turn losing efficiency in the process. Another advantage for these newer plugs is special nickel plating to avoid seizing to aluminum heads, so it can be money well spent. Next: how to select the right plug for your bike How to select the right plug for your bike Most motorcycles have a spark plug specification in their user’s manual, so why would you need to “select the right plug”? While we agree that the factory recommendation is the best starting point for selecting spark plug type, readers are highly encouraged to learn how to “read the plug” to accurately provide the best model for their particular application. Here is a reference guide to reading and selecting the right plug based on your usage: Start with the factory-recommended plug for your bike, and install as instructed here. Ensure you have the proper plug and check the spark gap to factory specification. If out of specification, re-gap it. When gapping spark plugs, the most accurate way is to use a set of gapping pliers. To open the gap, gently pull the ground electrode back. Do not force a feeler gauge between the electrodes and pry them apart. If you want to close the gap, gently tap the spark plug on a solid surface to bend the ground electrode. A little conductive anti-seize is recommended prior to installing in a cool engine. Make sure the spark plug holes are free of any contamination and install with fingers first to guard against cross threading. Screw in until finger tight and torque to factory spec for aluminum or cast iron heads. Note: The crush ring (washer) provides a gas tight seal between the plug and cylinder head through the cold-hot-cold operation of the enginext Next: How to read your plug Reading Your Plugs Now, after running your machine in a variety of RPM’s and load scenarios, extract the plug and compare against this chart below. Keep in mind a light tan or gray color indicates your plug is performing correctly. Darker coloring, such can indicate a rich condition, a cold range plug or too large of a gap. Continue to follow these instructions until you get your plug(s) to show the best coloration that you can achieve, using this chart as your basic guide (in the Green/OK sections). Chart photo: NGK Appears Oil Fouled – Possible Adjustments Try hotter range plug (longer insulator) Change fuel ratio for less oil and more fuel in mixture (2 strokes) Inspect and test for valve seals/worn rings (4 strokes) Appears Cold or Rich - Adjustments Try hotter range plug (longer insulator) Adjust fuel/air mixture (more air needed) Appears Hot or Lean - Adjustments Try colder range plug (shorter insulator) Adjust fuel/air mixture (less air needed) Next: Spark plug maintenance Maintenance Maintaining your plugs is fairly simple. When attempting to manually clean the plug you must be extra careful, paying special attention not to change the preset gap. If you do clean the plug you must re-check that the gap is within specification. There are purpose-built spark plug cleaners that operate off of compressed air with a small bag of silica that’s used as the cleaning material and we recommend these units over manually trying to clean the plug with solvents and wire brushes. If you want to clean a spark plug, here’s how NGK recommends doing it: If the firing end is wet, make sure you clean the spark plug with a quick drying cleaner. (Examples: contact cleaner or brake cleaner). Sand blast the spark plug using low air pressure and use a dry compound. Completely blow all the sand from the spark plug. Using a wire brush clean the threads and re-gap. Next: The Bottom-line The Bottom Line Today’s new iridium based spark plugs can provide a hotter spark and a cleaner burn under many different load conditions, and can remain cleaner for longer durations than the conventional copper plug. The new capacitive element plugs like the Pulstar have shown to provide additional benefits over the iridium plugs including moderate fuel savings and lowered hydrocarbon emissions. The bottom line is for longer life, cleaner burns and less maintenance, using the newer types of spark plugs as described here are worth every penny. Resources Bosch Enerpulse/Pulstar E3 NGK
  15. Looking for folks to do a read here and see if I messed anything up. Ideally someone who does professional installs of the BD/Skene. I'm continuing on with mods for a RTW starting in May. I really wanted the Baja Designs Squadron Pro, as I think I'll have at least some unplanned night travel, and that could happen in remote areas. That head mount stadium lighting looked pretty good. The BD-SP lights have to have a dimmer if you are planning on road travel internationally is my understanding. So I also got the Skene controller sold through Baja Designs. I am not covering the physical install of the light here using the rubber straps, instead this is just the electrical. My requirements were: 1) It must work with the factory high/low switch 2) it must come on when the bike powers one, just like the factory light does. 3) Ideally all wiring changes should be in the headlight areas 4) the wiring should be 'downstream' of the rest of the bike so that electricaly if I botched it or there was a short, only the lightening should be affected. 5) it should be clean. I chopped off all of the connectors on the skene controller and went to bare wire, so it all looks like OEM stuff. Obviously, do this at your own risk, and don't get pissed at me if it does not work. Start by removing the factory headlight. It unscrews on the side and unplugs via the H4 plug which is black and has 4 wires into it (B/W, White, Dk Yello, Light Yellow) --------------------------------------------- Stop and take a good look at the factory wiring. Here is what you will see coming from the battery: A thick bundle coming from the rear of the bike goes into a 9 pin yellow connector with 7 wires going into it(Y/white, Blk/white, dk blue, Y, Black, Lt Blue, Lt Green). I'm going to call that connector the 'hub'. That connector goes to the left side signal, and high/low beam switch on the handle bars. Some wires from the left side handle bar controls come back into the hub, another set of wires coming from the handlebar switch is in a bundle going to the H4 connector and then to the lamp. You can see the split of the one of two thick bundles in the attached first photo below if you UNPLUG the yellow connector you completely disconnect the left side controls from the bike and the headlight. You can then take a multimeter and test the hot side of the now unplugged yellow hub (with the key on/off to verify its switched power). What you will find is this at the power side of the hub: Yellow/White: switched power, the power comes to this only when the key is on. This is where we will get the power to the Skene controller. Blk/White: On the DRZ all Blk/White is ground. We will use this as the ground to the Skene Controller Yellow : this is activated when you switch the light to high beam on the handle bar. You can see this on wiring diagrams here on thumpertalk reproduced here. Its a simple switch, when you push high beam it sends current down that yellow wire. This is the actual brains of the hi/low beam and what the Skene controller needs to switch the BD lamp to high beam. So this yellow is an output from hand switch and runs down the H4 connector wire to the H4 plug as the light yellow wire. We will plug this into the Skene controllers white high beam control wire. Other wires: necessary but not used by the Skene controller or the BD lamp. --------------------------------------------- Overall what we are going to do. 1) The skene dimmer has a very nice illustration of the wiring attached below. 2) We have a single lamp, so the Skene doc says to combine(splice) the striped violet/wht and striped orange/wht together in the case where you only have a single light (skene controllers are used for cars and such so it can be tailored to a bike). Also we have to use a ground from one of those wires. That ground and the spliced violet/wht, orange/wht wires will go to the two prong Skene plug that goes into the actual connector on the BD light. Locate the two prong plugs (2 of them to start) on the Skene controller wires that are compatible with the plug on the back of the BD light. We will splice the connectors together on the Skene side then plug a single plug into the BD, discarding one of the two Skene plugs that came with the controler. 3) We want to hook up the power and ground to the wires coming from the battery to the corresponding wires on the input side of the yellow hub. 4) The output of the switch at the drivers left handbar is the lighter yellow wire going into the H4 connecter so that has to be attached to the white control wire of the Skene ------------------------------------------- Splicing/connecting wires: Everyone has their own way of doing this, there are tons of youtube videos on the topic. I like the Nasa method. You have several wires you want to "tap into' where you strip a wire in the middle and tie a new wire into it, and you have a couple of wires where you just want to connect the ends together. I soldered all of my connections, let them cool, then used liquid tape to cover all of the open wire, then wrapped that in high quality electrical tape. For splicing into an existing wire, which you do not want to cut, I used the Irwin Vise Grip wire self adjusting splicing tool. You just lay the wire still connected on both ends into the tool and it will strip and area off the middle of the wire leaving the ends completely intact. ------------------------------------------- Detailed instructions: 1) When you do the work, leave the wires open until you test the light fully to make sure all is well. Obviously with all that exposed wire, make sure don't short any of them together. 2) turn the key off. 3) unplug the yellow hub connector. If you have a meter, you may want to switch the key on and off and verify the above info at the yellow hub connector, and also at the H4 connector, obviously leave the key off before you start cutting wire. 4) On the Skene, you will end up cutting all the wires to length, so you can start by cutting the bundles coming out of the Skene to an apropos length for your bike, obviously leave a little extra. 5) Splice the Skene Black wire into the Blk/White wire behind the hot side of yellow connector hub (the side coming from the battery). That's ground. Use the wire stripper to expose the blk/white wire coming from the battery and splice in the Skene ground wire. 6) The Skene comes with good instructions indicating that you can combine the solid Violet, Orange, and Red from the Skene controller all together so do so. Just cut and strip the ends of the violet,orange and red wire together. Splice those 3 to the wire with the fuse on it that comes with the Skene controller. Then connect that singe fused wire to the yellow/white 'hot wire' coming into the yellow connector hub. Use the wire stripper to expose the wire in the Yellow/white wire, again behind the hot side of the hub and splice it in. You should see red/violet/orange wires from controller merging into the red wire that goes through the fuse, and then the wire on the other side of the fuse spliced into the yellow/wht wire at the back of the yellow 'hub' connector. 7) Now you hook up the 'brains'. Clip off the H4 connector that used to go to the old headlight. Strip the end of the light yellow wire, and attach it to the Skene's white wire. 8) Working just with the Skene side now. Cut off both of the two prong connectors on the skene striped orange/white and violet/white lines. You will reuse one of the connectors so make sure you leave enough wire on the back of it to reuse. The connectors have a striped line and a ground line running into them. Ultimately these are what power and ground the BD light. Trim the wires to size. Strip the orange/white and violate/white and combine them. You should only use one of the black ground wires and it should go into the Skene ground wire (they have it looped together in the package I got, not shown in the Skene diagram). Now re-attache one of the adapters to the combined striped wire and to ground. 9) you can cap off the other 3 wires going to the H4 connector (Dk yellow, Black/wht, white). 10) plug the two prong Skene adaptor with the striped violet and striped orange wires, and the ground wire into the back of the bD light. See skene plug to BD light adapter attachment below. 10) at this point you should be able to test the light. turn on the key and make sure that with the key on and the hand switch on low bean that the light comes on, just like the factory original. Then switch to high beam and make sure it work. Attachment below of completed wiring at the controller should help. Zip everything up, making sure its water tight and yur done.
  16. We are NOW offering AC versions of our popular Squadron and XL Series Motorcycle Lighting! All you need is a minimum of 40watts AC power and your bike must come factory with a lighting coil. This allows 2 stroke KTM, CRF250/450x, and many other bikes to run our lights with ZERO electrical system modifications. Please See Our Stator Reference Chart For Your Bikes Electrical Output: https://www.bajadesi...rence-Chart.asp "My Bikes output is 50 watts, what can I run?" 40 - 80 watts = Squadron Sport + XL Sport 80 + watts = Squadron Sport, Squadron Pro, XL Sport, XL Pro ENTER: "BDForums" discount code for 10% OFF and $5 shipping to the lower 48 www.bajadesigns.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - For Example, Honda CRF250/450X puts out 40W AC from the factory. Previously the owner would need the following to run our Squadron Sport LED Race lights: QTY: 1 - Stator Rewind $175 (12-6029) QTY: 1 - Regulator/Rectifier $49.95 (12-2004) QTY: 1 - Wiring Harness $39.95 (61-1049) QTY: 1 - Squadron Sport, CRF/X LED Light $149.95 (557071) TOTAL: $414.85 NOW ...with these new AC models, the same CRF250/450x owner will need: QTY: 1 - AC Squadron Sport, LED Race Light, RED $199.95 (557071AC) https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Squadron-Sport-AC-LED-CRF-X-Kit.asp TOTAL: $199.95 (TT $179.95) - "BDForums" discount code - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - But wait! There is more! These AC Models include a Module that is easily removed allowing the light to run on DC Power. This allows you to transfer the light between bikes if needed. You can be running our Squadron Pro on a 200 XC/XC-W and switch to your 500 EXC with NO ISSUES Please Post Up if you have any questions or comments. More Information Below... ENTER: "BDForums" discount code for 10% OFF and $5 shipping to the lower 48 www.bajadesigns.com
  17. I live in the woods and don't always make it home before dark. My question Is, is it possible to wire and power a low voltage LED light to the stock stator without interfering with operation of the bike. If so, how? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
  18. frontline510

    Wr250f Ground wire

    Hi everyone. I am currently rebuilding the top end on my 2001 Yamaha Wr250F w/ Athena 290 kit. I am reassembling and cannot find out where this part goes. It looks like a bracket or floated ground wire of some sort. Can anybody tell me what exactly this part is and where it goes? Any help is appreciated.
  19. So i have a 2009 kx450f with efi and I'm trying to hook up lights and turn signals and all of that good stuff to make it street legal. I know I need to tap into the bikes power supply to power all of this but I don't know where that would be. Should I go through the cdi or the efi and if so where would that be.
  20. OutsiderVA

    XT500 no spark

    Hi folks, I bought a bike about half restored. '78 XT500E. Many new parts, but the previous owner said he couldn't get it to spark. The coils look brand new, points and condenser as well. I haven't actually removed the flywheel to see the stator coils yet. Previous owner removed: battery, rectifier, and kill switch to run as a dirt bike only. Key ignition switch is still intact. I unplugged the key ignition switch for these tests to eliminate that possibility, and I did a few tests. When I kick the bike, and hold the spark plug to the motor or other ground I get ZERO spark. When I remove the plug and cap, I got zapped when holding the wire and kicking. When I take the Black/White wire leading to the coil and hold to a ground I get a noticeable blue and rhythmic spark. So power is making it to the coil. I got the following readings with my multimeter, though some of these jumped around a lot. Black wire from 4-wire stator loom to ground = 2.5ohm --- can't find spec Primary Coil (Black/White wire male blade to ground) = 1.2 ohm -- spec is .75, so high...maybe too high? Spark Plug Cap to ground = 11.73k ohm Spark Plug wire w/ NO cap to ground = 7.03k ohm - spec is 5.75K ohms, so again, high. Also, new plug, and even bought a new Emgo universal coil to test. Similar results, tho I think it’s got lower resistance than the other coil I’ve got which appears to be a newer after market unit. The gray one that it seems everyone has and sells for XT500. Also, attaching a pic of my points for reference in case something is majorly off there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  21. Micah Smith

    AC Regulator question

    I am installing a new Ricky Stator 200W unit on a 2006 XR650R. I plan on using the dual 100w channel setup. I am currently seeing 10 volts out of the current stock AC regulator and the manual calls for 14. My question is should I be ordering up a new AC regulator or should I slam dunk the new stator in and see if that brings the volts up? Thanks in advance
  22. nks731

    450X stator in an R?

    Does anyone know if the 450X flywheel and stator with fit in an R?
  23. All right guys could use some help here. Last year I sold my motocross bike and decided I was going to convert my 2015 500 EXC into a more moto friendly setup. As I was doing so I started removing items I felt "unnecessary" (headlights, tail light, turn signals, etc) and put that stuff aside for when I wanted to put it back in street legal trim. Shortly after I had to move and put the bike in storage for a few months until I found a new place with a garage. So that brings us to now, I just pulled the bike out and decided to put all the dual sport stuff back on and make it street legal but can not get the turn signals to work. So here's the situation, Head light and tail/break light work, horn also works and everything is plugged in correctly but I suspect I might have gotten a bit trigger happy when removing the "unnecessary" components as I have found what appears to be a ground wire at the bottom of the bin I stored the removed parts in. I can't remember where this came from or why I cut the wire (see picture below) but I suspect this is the reason my turn signals aren't working. To add to my confusion, tucked behind the headlight I found a random female end of a bullet connector with nothing plugged into it and I'm not sure what would have gone there and if I removed that or it's just an extra accessory wire. The piece of wire I found that I cut has a female end on it doesn't plug in there :/ I also purchased the ktm service manual but the wiring diagram is so complicated I can't tell what is what. So if you own a 13- 15 500 exc or have knowledge in this area here's what I need to know... 1.What is the female bullet connector behind the headlight supposed to be used for? 2.Is the clipped black wire I found in my box the culprit for my faulty turn signals ? 3.If so, where does that wire go on the bike? pics below If you have any info that can help me figure this out please share and thanks for reading this, cheers!
  24. I have a 2006 Suzuki DRZ400s. I am having an issue with the tail running lights not working. The brake light does work with both the foot and hand brake. The running lights will come on when i turn the key past run to the park setting. It does have an aftermarket led tail light. Any insight would be appreciated
  25. WR2FIFTY

    WR250f splutters.

    i have recently picked myself up a wr250f 2004 and seems to have an electrical problem. rode fine when i got it after about 30 mins into the ride it seem to splutter in the lower rev range or when engine was loaded up seem to clear up in high revs (not much engine load). after a few more minutes bike started to be impossible to ride back firing and just bogging right down till it stalls. done the normal checks cleaned carb, new fuel, checked spark, checked air filter ect. at this point it would idle quite rough and noticed would stall when high beams are on (lights are on when bike is running all the time). checked voltage from battery it was sitting at 7.5v and when bike is running drops to 6.4v. I jumped it using a car battery and idled perfectly and revved just fine. i charged the battery up and managed to bring it back to 12.6v. tested voltage again and seem to not be charging at idle revved it up to about 3000rpm and nothing happened straight away then seem to jump up to 13.1v so i assumed the charging system was okay and it was just a flat battery causing my issue. went for a ride approx 6kms or so and ran good. votage stayed at 12.6v with bike off. next day took it out for a slightly longer ride and started to splutter again. turned around and got half way home until bike was once again unridable. voltaged seem to be at 12.5v. i am pretty comfortable working on cars but very knew to bikes. so my thoughts is that bike is some how not giving the ignition system enough power to run correctly. cutting spark in and out causing it to bog and back fire? my understanding is that the stator generates ac power to power the lights and ignition system and charge battery (once converted to dc). if the stator is at fault would my lights not cut in and out also? sorry for the long post just trying to get some insight from people with more experience or maybe someone has had this problem before. done a little bit of research but couldnt fine to much.
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