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Found 77 results

  1. So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress. My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light. Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running. I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals. And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.
  2. as anyone that rides an xcf knows we are 100% dependent on our batteries. My XCF is street legal with a light kit. But I need to add a fan as the bike is a Pizza Oven in the woods. My question, I have 70W to play with as I upgraded the stator. Can I run my additional loads (lights/fan) off the battery terminals and still expect the battery to keep charge? Or do I need to wire in a separately derived system?
  3. I’ve been searching for the last week or so for a nice used bike and have found a very nice 07 250 sxf. My problem is that I have not found any kind of aftermarket stator to allow for lights, fan, or other electrical accessories I might add to make the bike more trail worthy. Ive googled, searched this forum, and checked several online vendors to no avail. Any info you guys have would be appreciated. Zach
  4. Hello all, So I've been dealing with this particular issue for a while now and I can't find the issue. A couple months back I was riding home from work one night when I turned on the high beams and pop goes the headlight. Blinkers still working and brake lights still working when I pull the front brake lever and rear brake pedal but the headlight and running brake light not so much. I made it home safely and just figured I would look at things in the morning. After a little research I found that the 10a fuses like to pop and that most people switch to a 15a. the next day I start taking a look. Headlight bulb and brake bulb are fine and fuse was not blown. I still upgraded the fuse to a 20a just to be on the safe side. Still nothing. I noticed the left rear blinker with some rust on the outside and opened it up to see a completely ruined blinker so i thought maybe that would be the case but I think that was me just being irrational. No way a rusty blinker could blow just the headlight. So after a few weeks of more research and asking questions, my best bet was to get a volt meter and test wires to see if there is a short somewhere. I hadn't had time to take a whole day and start testing it until recently since I am a bartender and have been out of work amid this Covid-19 situation. So today I cleaned and tested all electrical contacts and connectors that would link directly to the headlight. They all tested fine and weren't shorted with another wire. I'm also not extremely comfortable using a volt meter and can't say for sure I used it correctly. I cleaned the headlight switch and all contacts in that housing. Tested each connector under the tach and speedometer.All tested fine to my knowledge. I'm at a loss. I don't know what else it could be. All relays are working and all fuses are fine. At this point I just want to say screw it and get an entirely new harness but as we all know we like to do it ourselves and for the cheapest price here in KLR world. Any suggestions as to what is going on here that I'm missing? Also i cant find any pinched or rubbed thin wires that may cause a short. Thanks for reading guys and I hope to hear from you soon.
  5. 2006 DR650 The issue began suddenly one day when I was running the bike in the garage. I started the bike with a battery tender attached, it ran for a while, then I turned it off. When I tried to restart, nothing happened. Everything seems fine, all the electrical works fine, the battery is fine (I tested it), the 30A fuse is also fine. I bypassed the starting solenoid and the bike starts right up, so I assumed the solenoid was bad and replaced it with a new one. It still won't start. I may be missing something obvious, but I'm stuck. The only thing different is that I started it with the battery tender attached, which I've never done, but I read that's ok. Why will it only start when the solenoid is bypassed?
  6. I've had my 96 XR600R for almost a year now and am by no means an expert mechanic, but I know enough to do basic-intermediate maintenance. The most recent issue I've had involves what I believe to be some sort of electrical issue. First things first, it has been running obscenely rich despite downsizing to a 62 (stock) pilot jet and 155 main at sea level with upgraded muffler. This made me suspicious of some electrical issue that prevents a full spark from getting to the spark plug. It wasn't until after 20-30 mins of street riding that I noticed the rpms at idle begin dropping at idle. Finally, they dropped too low and the bike just died at a stop light. I waited about 5 mins and will a little more effort than usual was able to get the bike started in 2-3 kicks and got it home. The insulation on the prongs of the ignition coil is cracked pretty bad and there is a fair amount of dirt and dust in that area directly under the tank. Other than that, the insulation for the wiring looks solid. I just checked the valve clearances today (had similar symptoms from tight valves months ago) and they're in spec. Bike starts first or second kick every time and has no issues until the bike gets hot and the rpms drop. I've noticed when cruising the bike seems like it misses a fire and the bike jerks ever so slightly, but other than that it has power and rides well and rarely backfires. Does anyone have any advice for narrowing down what is causing the issue or has had similar problems and knows a solution?? I know stators are known to go out on these old thumpers but it seems like that would also lead to problems when the bike is warming up? Are stators known to lose power when the bike is hot? Could it be the CDI? Ignition Coil? Any help would be appreciated!
  7. So I'm putting together a pit bike and I ran into a problem with getting no spark but when I held the ground wire I got a shock any ideas I'm not good on electrical
  8. Hi all, I have a 2004 honda crf250r and it wont start hot at all. The motor was just rebuilt with a new cylinder and piston. The valves were just adjusted. It will start cold in 1 or 2 kicks with choke but as soon as it gets hot it wont start. If you bump start it the motor will just turn over without starting. sometimes it will start. It runs great until you shut it off. im thinking its either a fuel issue or an electrical issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Hi, I have a 2016 Husqvarna FE501S that was sitting in the garage for about two months. I decided to start it today. On the first try it instantly started up and purred like a kitten. Everything was great for about 10 seconds. Then it just quit. For about 20 more seconds, the battery icon on the stock speedometer was flashing. Then nothing. No headlight which is always on when the the key is on. The bike is acting like the battery has been removed. I checked the voltage of the battery and it showed 13.4 volts. I put it on a charge on it for about an hour with the cables removed and it then showed 16.64 volts. I checked the ground cable with an ohm meter and it was connected to the frame and engine. I cleaned the battery cable connectors thoroughly and reattached them. I attempted to start again, but nothing. No sign of anything going on electrically. In the morning I'm going to play with the keyed ignition switch. The bike is acting like I never inserted the key. Any others ideas? Thanks in advance.
  10. eddster500r

    DRZ400 Mods

    2009 DRZ400sm I bought this bike with a little less then 600 miles. I have since put down more 60000 miles on the bike. I thought I would share a little about my bike and the modes i have been able to do. 1. Gearing I Run a 16 tooth front sprocket and a 37 tooth rear. And you can go all the way down to 35 tooth if you wanted to slightly modify the rear hub. I would advise against this. My opinion, a with mildly modified DRZ(exhaust and 3x3 mod) I would not go with taller gearing than 16-39 or 15-37. 2. Rear Tire, You can run up to 160/60 R17, My opinion 150/70 R17 is the best handling. 3. Rewiring Charging cable, by shortening and using a thicker gauge wire that is routed from the battery over to the starter relay and then back into the loom. As well as bringing down the Fuse AMP down to 15amp. 15amp is enough to operate 100 watts of light. 4. 4mm Stroker, Can be installed using the stalk piston and 91 pump gas. 5mm stroker needs to modify the crank case and replace the piston.
  11. Hello, I am new to the forum. My boy has a new to us, 2015 yz250fx with 45 hrs which we bought with 5 hrs. Regular oil and filter changes and well taken care of. He was at his first GP last weekend. The bike ran great (as usual) for the first 20 min and then he came in saying the bike was not running good. The bike would idle but sputter when throttle given. He thought maybe the kill switch was shorted and hit that. The bike died and then would not start with the electric start, but would start with the kick start. Came to the truck and checked all obvious things. No blown fuses, air filter clean and correctly installed, and nothing obvious. Fuel pump cycles when start button is pressed. Loaded the bike and home bound. Battery checks good, but also bypassed with a car battery. Pulled the tank with no obvious pinched or broken wires. Electric start does not work, but when started via kick start, battery is reading low at 8.5v (battery was 12.6v). Pulled starter and it is free and works with 12v. Ohm checked starting button, kill switch, clutch switch, starter relay, and all checked good. Fuel pump getting 12v with starter button pressed. Starter relay (the one with the two 15a fuses) was replaced with a new one and no change. Battery cable going to the starter from this relay is only getting 1.5v when trying to start and it clicks. Switched what I believe are the starting relay and radiator fan relay and again no change. Have not checked the neutral safety switch (cant find the plug) but believe the relay should work since the clutch switch has been removed from the clutch and would show the clutch in as far as the bike knows. I would think the problem running would be associated with the bike not starting (electric) as they happened at the same time. My son stated he was just riding, not excessive rpm, crash, rock, etc. I have just ordered a tuner for this bike in hopes it may show a code. Any advice, expertise, wild guesses are greatly appreciated! He is trying to race another this coming weekend. Thank you for looking!
  12. let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...
  13. Hello everybody, I am in the process of converting my 2004 Honda XR400 into a supermoto. In order to do so i need a headlight with Hi/Low capability to pass street inspection. From what i see with the stock headlight bulb it only supports low beam ability. I want to keep the stock headlight frame if possible while doing the conversion. I have read that some people have found H3 bulbs that are dual filament, which would be ideal for me, but i cant seem to find these bulbs for sale anywhere. At this point it seems that i may have to just order an aftermarket headlight like a polisport or something just to get the hi/low beam capability, which is unfortunate. If anyone has any tips or suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  14. HI guys, last post recieved great help so hoping the same here, basically I think I’m experiencing some timing issues on my 02 rm125. The timing marks on the magneto were slightly out by like a degree or less, in favour of an earlier spark, worried that I was gunna fry the piston, I moved the timing marks by a degree in favour of a later spark just for piece of mind that I wasn’t harming my freshly rebuilt engine, since doing this o think I can hear the bike ‘pinging’ when riding at a steady speed, and has developed a ticking noise from the top end, it runs okay maybe a little splutter before the valve opens and possibly down on power a little but I ride a sports bike so maybe it’s just not that fast compared, but once it’s cleared out it sings through the gears as it should, can anyone help? Will post a picture of current position on magneto, also I haven’t proper tool for measuring tdc but by feel on the fly wheel this is pretty much where it’s at, that can’t be right considering the crank turns anti clockwise?
  15. So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but theyre all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  16. Does anybody know how much power the WR's brake light draws? Talking about the actual brake light, not just the running light.
  17. 1997 Honda Xr650L. I was changing out my turn signals. After each one I tested the turn signal...all good up till the 3rd turn signal. After the 4th and final turn signal was changed out everything is dead except my headlight. Brake light, turn signals, horn, dash indicators lights (except for headlight indicator) and rear light are dead. I check my fuses and all are good in the fuse area by the battery. Is there another fuse I’m missing? everything was working perfectly just before. I had a turn signal broken (bulbs are OEM....I do not have LEDs) and was trying to repair and change them all to the same style. I ordered pen replacement signals.
  18. looking for an upgraded headlight for my 98 300exc. when i got it the PO put a hid kit on it, but since it doesnt have a battery it isnt that bright even when revving... im also powering a weak rear running light/tag light when i flip my headlights on. Looking for a decent upgrade that wont break the bank. thanks!
  19. My 79 XR185 is shaping up and its time to add some lights to make it work on the roads. From what I've read, the stock lighting that came with it is pretty weak. Ideally I'd like to be able to buy some 12 volt lighting that shines bright. Any advice would be great! I've got the wires hanging out for the headlight, just not sure what lights I can get running on them, and if I could upgrade that to something stronger.
  20. I just picked up a new 18 Xtrainer and I must say, I'm Xcited for spring. I drove it home through yesterday's east coast snow storm. While waiting on the certificate of origin from the dealer, I'm going to be working on installing turn signals to get it street legal here in VA I have a set of 12v LED strips that I think I want to mount on the hand guards. I originally bought them to use a turn signals, but I think I want to use them as running lights. After looking at the wiring diagram, I think the best option for getting power would be the parking lamp in the headlight. Does anyone have any better suggestions?
  21. Hey TT, first post here so thought I'd intro myself as well. Been a long time lurker, but moving through a project 83 xt250 sohc, I realised I would definitely need to be asking for some advice. So here goes. I think I've got a short. Ha - yeah I know, could be anything. I've unplugged all the lights, controls, tacho & speedo and whilst the fuse (15amp) doesn't blow immediately, it does start to heat up fairly quickly with what appears to be a short somewhere in the main harness. Before I start stripping it to see if there is any exposed wires etc, I thought I'd see if any one had any experience with any obvious or common areas to look or check. Appreciate that electrical issues can be a bit of a black hole but thought I'd check to see if anyone else had experienced something similar before I start really tearing into it.
  22. Hi guys, My problem started with this: I went for a quick ride for learning wheelies. The bike was running good for the whole time then I stopped for a little break. After that when I wanted to start the bike it but wouldn't start. The starter motor cranked but nothing happened. After a few tries I noticed that when I pushed the starter button a slight smoke(wich smelled like burnt plastic) came from the bottom of the fuel tank. Ok I tought it is a short so I pushed the bike home instead of trying it more times. Next day I pulled off the fuel tank and checked for burnt cables. I found out that the ground wire which is fixed under the ignition coil burnt down. I replaced it and tried to start the bike. When I started it the replaced wire started to get hot instantly. Ok, I tought it will be something else. I searched for anything else. I found that the ground wire which comes directly from the battery came off from the frame. I screwed back to the frame. After I tried to start again, the ignition coil ground wire didn't got hot that time but it didn't do a single spark. So i tried several thing in the last few weeks. I bought a new ignition coil, hired my friends working CDI and tested with is, bought a new aftermarket stator(Electrex, wich is english made), took apart the whole wiring harness looking for a burnt wire and checked all of the plugs for burning or someting that is not correct. All of these seems to be okay so now I'm clueless what it can be. The bike is a 2005 E model which is converted into an SM. It has an SM wiring harness with some modifications(side stand switch bypassed, clutch switch bypassed, horn, fan and neutral switch plugs not used).
  23. Hi guys, I've got some electrical gremlins plaguing my existence with my 1983 xt250. I've pulled apart the wiring and I've noticed the wiring diagram in my Clymer manual is wrong A LOT. I even started remaking my own color one but its proving very difficult. Does anyone have the diagram from an original yamaha manual or something that is more accurate?? The model I'm working on is the xt250K. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Josh
  24. I need some help figuring out what is going on with my bike. I have an 04 WR450F, and I was riding 5 miles of hell over the weekend. Right before the last escape route (lucky me) my bike just died. I was starting up a climb, and right at the base, it just shut down. I didn't hit anything, don't even think there was much of a bump or anything to jolt the bike. I did have a few lay downs/get offs before, but nothing here. The light on the power button wouldn't turn on, and there was no power to the headlight. I found out that I could kick start it, but it was very difficult, it took a LOT of kicking before it would start, and then it would stall if I ever let off the gas. As I was trying to figure out what was going on, I saw some white plastic (?) pieces falling out from under the headlight/front number plate. I pulled off the headlight and saw an electrical part (I assume it's like a resistor or something like that), it looked like it had been jarred loose, and got pinched by the steering, and broke it. It is a white rectangular piece, looks and feels sort of like hard plastic, about 2" long, 3/4" wide and probably only about 1/4" thick, and has 2 male quick connectors on it. Inside (since it broke, I could see, usually you wouldn't, but maybe it will help figure out what it is), is a thin wire coil, like a spring, and I'm not sure what it is wrapped around, maybe just an insulator. I tried to wrap it with some electrical tape to insulate it while riding back, but it melted the tape, and was smoking. I'm not sure where the 2 wires that connect to it go, they go back into a cluster of wires on the wiring harness, and I didn't have time to cut it all apart, and follow them, but that is the only damage that I could see, so I'm hoping that if I can figure out what this part is, and find a replacement, that will fix my problem. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  25. So I have a parasitic drain on my battery. I thought I traced it to the Regulator Rectifier but I switched that out and still get the same draw. When I remove the Reg/REc the draw goes away. So for you electrical experts: By adding the reg/rec I am closing a circuit, correct? I tested the connector that leads to the reg/rec. With the negative off the battery, I put one lead from the multi meter on the battery negative and one to the brown wire on the connector. This gave me the same amp reading as when the reg/rec is connected. My thought is I have a short in the wire harness or a component down the line. Would a short pull amps?
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