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Found 81 results

  1. 06kx250F627

    Engine swap

    I have a 2006 kx250f and was wonderingly if I could swap the engine for a 450f. Does anyone know if I could do this?
  2. Is it possible to swap the working 110 taotao autoshift electric start from 4 wheeler into a manual shift kickstart taotao pitbike?? Looks like it has all the same mounting points.
  3. ive got a 1997 yz250 and it needs replating or boring. idk about it because ive always been able to go to the local machine shop and they can do it. can i do that or do i have to send it in somewhere?
  4. raymondthebodeau

    Crf case half issue

    These are pictures of a 2006 honda crf 250 right side case half. In the kick starter mechanism housing, there is a small piece of aluminum that bridges across a hole in the case. It broke off, and im wondering if anybody else has seen this before, and will it be an issue? I dont think it serves a purpose, but i would like a second opinion. Thanks!
  5. TPA-MX

    My 2013 RMZ250 Project Bike

    Hello All, Well, I came home with a 2013 RMZ250 today and I am super excited. This will be a project bike for me as the motor is currently locked up. I got this bike for such a good deal, I could not pass it up. I dont know much about it yet, but tomorrow, I will drain the oil and start opening up the sides of the engine to see what I can find. Since this is my first Suzuki, do you have any suggestions on where to start? Also, anyone have a 2013 Service manual? That would really help me out. Just wanted to start this thread as I am sure I will have numerous questions and you guys are the pros. Wish me luck and check back for updates. Cheers!
  6. 2009 YZF250 - Ex Dixon bike with the wet sump conversion. Stuck a bunch of quality hours on this thing the other weekend doing some enduro practice. Didn't skip a beat! Changed out the oil and filter, putoline - 850ml with filter change as recommended by someone off the dixon facebook page. Fresh airfilter. Didn't start it for a few days after the oil change as was late at night after service, warmed it up at trackside this weekend with no issues to get the oil flowing, checked pressure by removing the bolt, all fine... Killed it. Came back to the bike about 15 mins later started fine, rode literally about 100m (wasn't hanging around but not going mad) and she just died under load, instant death. I believe it locked up, hard to recall. Didn't feel right either-way, i've had bikes flame out on me (CRF450) and this was a bit different. Bike started OK afterwards, I sat there with it on idle for about 10 seconds, all good, gave it some throttle and it just came to an abrupt stop again, almost made a squeak when it stopped. Rolled back to pits, checked oil filter, was fully soaked, everything looked fine, rads weren't exactly hot but i'd only been riding for a short period, head was pretty hot to touch, crank didn't seem that hot - but then again i've never touched an engine after 4 minutes of running so I've no idea what sort of temp it should be haha. Bike started again fine after little inspection, idled OK. Sounded sweet, no rattles or bangs. Started to give it some throttle, rolling the revs and it just came to a screeching stop again. Kicked it in anger and it hasn't started again since. Gave it a little strip down last night, took valve cover off, all looks normal, valves are in spec still, took the carb off and had a look down the inlet, small little bits of something foreign in there and the tiniest of metal slivers sitting ontop of one of the valves. (By this point i'd already dropped oil and filter for inspection, nothing that looked out of place) Now the bike kicks over OK. Its never had the strongest of compression on kick, but its been a while since i've had a 250F. it does 'get hard' at certain points but its pretty easy to kick through these hard points normally just body weight will do it. Can any of you advise on moving forwards, i'm going to remove head and cylinder for inspection but i've never dug this deep into an engine before haha! Any thoughts or tips on things to look out for? Bike has a spark I should add, not that this really felt like a lack of ignition.
  7. Hey, first off I'm new to motorbikes so I may be using the wrong terminology here and there. I haven't run my bike for a few months and now it's not starting. I'm in neutral, tried the choke at different levels, full gas tank. I may have flooded the carbs, but I wanted to check the spark plug first because I have no clue about carbs. I've attached a photo of the spark plug, could this be the reason it's not starting? When removing the cap have I pulled too hard and snapped the wire (see photo), if I've snapped this piece what's it called and what am I replacing? Really appreciate the help, Cheers,
  8. Whats up everyone I'm pretty new to the forum so I'm not sure if I'm posting in the correct spot.Either way I need some help! what year kickstart levers will fit my 2007 yz450f. I got away with a Kim lever off a 525 exc but now I'm looking online and can't find much but one option for 130$ I'm seeing a lot of options for 2011 levers around 75$ and they look nicer with a blue instead of silver. Does anyone know what size the spline is? what other years I could possibly use? thanks in advance. On another note my oil filter housing bolt is stripped like most I see are dealing with. I have googled away and cannot seem to find where to order that bolt.
  9. Previous owner used some sort of nasty sealer on 2000 KTM 125 headgasket. Razor blade would not touch it beyond this. I had 2 headgaskets out of 5 heads that were stuck this bad. Suggestions?
  10. FatCowKiller

    Cam timing and clattering

    I have recently done a lot of maintenance to my WR 450f and there are still some issues which concern me with it, when I took out the clutch basket there was a gear with a bent piece on it (picture attached) This was probably done by the previous owner but I think it should probably be replaced? - When I checked the valves they were only opened for measuring when the knob things were pointed down instead of up, (picture attached) I dont know if the timing is messed up or if it has been retarded to the yz specs. ( the picture of the cam chain was when the valves were open, at the same time as the knob things were downwards in the other picture). -There is also a clattering noise from the engine but it seems to run fine? I will try to make a video for mine soon but it sounds pretty much like this persons - sorry about the bad pictures.
  11. I have the option of either installing SKF bearings or Koyo bearings . I was told by my local parts / Bearing retailer that SKF makes high quality brgs . Koyo have also earned a great reputation being a trusted brand as well . I'm seeking the opinions of the forum on this choice . Thanks for your input on this matter ! Application : 1984 YZ 250L
  12. Bm1997

    DRZ400E blown engine

    I'm trying to help my buddy find a DRZ and we came across this E model with a blown engine for $500. Seems like a pretty good deal so long as the engine damage isn't too extensive. https://ashtabula.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2000-drz-400e-street-legal/6319866501.html He says he was on the highway and it locked up. He said the crank still moves to a certain point then gets stuck. Does anyone have any idea what the issue is? Figured if it was just a top end we could just put a big bore in it. We're gonna try to look at it this weekend, any ideas would be appreciated.
  13. VankoZvera

    Crf oil?

    Hello guys. Is Motul 5100 10w40 good choice for Crf's? For both engine and gearbox? Please tell me your advices!
  14. Hey Guys. I have a Honda XR 250r 1999 that i have just rebuilt. I got the piston and barrel done in a shop along with the valves. The bike is running well but has a issue with burning oil. The decompression valve on the engine was jammed but we managed to free it up but the bike has lacked compression since it was freed. I have no issue starting the bike but would a broken/stuck decompression valve be a reason behind the burning of the oil and lack of compression? I started with a synthetic oil but was advised to use a mineral so did a oil change and now have 20w-50 mineral in the bike but have seen no change.
  15. Colt Hillis

    Sponsorships in ohio

    I'm looking for a motor builder that could sponsor me, something along those lines thats close to ohio. I currently race a yz 125.
  16. I'm new to KTM's. Just bought a used 2011 SXF 450. It sounds different than other bikes I've had int he past. I just want to make sure there isn't anything out of the ordinary... peace of mind, really. The sound I'm hearing is more significant on the right side of the bike. There is no knocking or ticking from what I can tell, just a noisier engine then I'm used to. I hear KTM's have a thinner engine case, so maybe that's why. I also hear the timing chain tensioner tends to be an issue with these bikes. Please take a listen to the video and let me know what you think. Thanks!
  17. This noise is really bothering me. I want to know if it's something to worry about or not. I checked my valves they are in spec. Please Help!
  18. mrwindta

    Drz400 Cylinder head fitment

    First i want to thank everyone for their input into the vast amount of knowledge that can be found on this site. It makes life a bit easier and interesting for people like me. MY question is about fitting a ltz400(or klx400)cylinder head onto a drz400. I've searched the forum quite a bit and need to be sure a couple of things. 1. I've read that the ltz400 head is a direct fit for the drz but i would need to plug the manual decomp if i'm putting the cylinder head on a drz400s model. How exactly is this done?I'm assuming the ltz400 head has manual decomp 2.If i were to buy a ltz400 head to put onto a drz400s, would it make a difference whether i bought the assembly parts (cams,valves,shims,springs,etc) for the drz or for the ltz? 3.I've read that the klx400 head is a direct fit also. Is there a specific year klx400 that only fits? Thanks in advance for the responses!
  19. dillysadv

    Rebuild - What to Replace and What Not?

    I have looked all over and cannot find a good accurate resource out there. I recently decided that it was time to tear into my 1990 DR350S. (suzuki) it would not run reliably or really at all anymore and I found that the compression was only about 80PSI. After tearing into the motor I found that overall it was in pretty good shape.. the Oil ring was stuck inside the piston so that it was not sealing well and it appeared that the valves may not have been seating well. Really I figure I can re-grind or re-seat the valves, replace the top end gaskets and piston rings and it should be good.. what I am wanting to know is how do you know if you should replace more (valves, timing chain, ect..) I do have a strong Mechanical background but have never liked or done much engine internals.. any advice would be greatly appreciated. I do have pictures of the valves.. you can see them here https://goo.gl/NH76kw... let me know if that does not work and I can copy them to this post.
  20. Just got my first paycheck from my first formal job. So... if you had 800 bucks, what would you get for your 2015 KTM 300 XC-W? (I studied finance so dont tell me to save for my retirement or invest! that shit is #boring) Regards from Mexico!
  21. Harry Longhurst

    Kxf250 2005 bogging and not full power

    Hi I’ve got a kxf250 2005 and I’ve been having trouble with it recently , first when I bought it a month or so ago it was fine for 1 hour or 2 and then it felt like it’s lost a lot of power but recently had piston kit , then It gave up the ghost and now you can’t start it by kicking it , you have to bump start it otherwise it won’t go and it takes 3-4 times to start , when you get it to run it will only run just below full throttle and it splutters and jolts and any less more throttle it will just bog down and die, I’ve checked the timing and it seems all good , rebuilt the carb with all new jets and o rings etc can anyone suggest anything and has anyone had this problems , if you could help me out it would be much appreciated thanks
  22. CT2

    DRZ Motor Need Advice

    Hey guys, Looking for some information and advice. Have a 2006 DRZ400S with 10,600km on it. Just picked it up. It had been sitting since sometime in the fall, maybe September. It started and ran for a couple minutes. Run down of what I've done: took the carb out and apart, wanted to give it a clean. Found the O-rings on the float needle seat, and the main jet holder were deteriorated. The rest of the carb seemed ok. Checked the oil dip stick, smelled like gas. Makes sense, carb must have been leaking gas into the motor. When I removed the carb, there was a puddle of gas in the engine intake. I went to check the valves, got the valve cover off, then went to take off the caps so rotate the engine and line up the timing marks, and as soon as I started unscrewing it oil, or more like gas, started coming out. Got the oil pan under it, and cracked the case oil drain bolt... a mixture of gas and oil poured out, A LOT came out... I don't know how much volume is available in the engine, but the amount of gas/oil that came out filled the entire oil catch pan, must have been 4 or more litres. Not good... I rotated the crank and lined up the timing marks, the cam lobes seemed to be in the correct location, the lines all made sense I think. I checked the valves: EX= 0.23mm-0.25mm IN=0.15mm I was able to rotate the engine with the spark plug still in... should I be able to rotate the crank with the spark plug still in? Does the auto decomp allow this, or is there an issue there? The engine rotates, it isn't stuck or anything, however it seems that it gets a little stiff at the top of the stroke, and at some point makes a click. Here is what I can see so far: The cams appear to be in good condition to my untrained eye, thoughts? Appears to be properly timed, 15 pins between teeth, little confused by the numbers on the cams, no idea what they mean. Also I'm assuming these are the stock cams, I don't think any work was done on this motor. Looking down the intake at the intake valves. I also stuck my scope down the spark plug hole, but it was too big to get into the cylinder to see anything meaningful. So, what to do next... do the cams look ok? What would the gas in the motor have possibly damaged or done? Could it have hydro locked the motor and blown something (hence turning over even with the plug on)? Best way to flush the system of the gas? Should I pull the head? I'm thinking yes just so I know whats going on in there... this would be the first real motor work I've done. Just wanted to get some opinions. Thanks in advance!
  23. hey guys, i am new to bikes and have been searching in the shadows but would like to become a member of the community. right now i have a cr125, both 1993 and 1999. they both are in bad shape and to know nothing about bikes, i know, i am in over my head but what better way to learn. the 1993 has all parts to get it running but im pretty sure when i put it back together i didnt get something right w the carb. i say that cause i see tube like hoses(pink in color) connected to a lot of you guys carbs and only thing connected to my carb is the tank and cord that goes to the clutch lever(i think thats where that cord goes) the 1999 is only a shell and suspension . no motor, carb, nothing! just mane/sub frame, suspension, arm, tires, tank, radiator, plastics. i got the 1993 for $300, and the 1999 for $100 so i dont mind putting money in it. i just need guidance on the technical stuff. i dont even know how to mix gas. a 4stroke may b better for me but hey.... long story longer, will my 93 motor fit in my 99? i read 99 motors are popular in the shifter community so they may b hard to come by. ebay mainly sells you cases separately and thats sketchy on matching up since idk wat im doing really. what motors will fit in easiest? i dont plan on racing, just learning moreso. i rode when i was in my teens(now 31) so i know the basics. just bought a house with a large wooded area behind my house and figured wth. I'll pose pics if u guys need. BTW- i live in Maryland so if anyone wanna stop pass and help me out....lol THANKS!
  24. So this is a question i have been wondering about for a while. I have seen on youtube many people blow their 125/250s up flying down the highway and let off the gas(coast) and not use the clutch. So my question is, is it harmful to engine brake a 2 stroke while woods riding? Might seem weird but i need an answer. I trail ride and ride some technical stuff on a TTR230. A lot of it's tight and open straight away's into corners and up and down steep hills (So i won't really be getting into higher gears, rpms as say you would like on an mx track). Say i am flying through the woods down a straightaway into a corner, i only use my front and back brakes, no clutch, is that bad for the engine? Also going down a hill, locking up the back wheel, feathering the clutch, is that bad for the engine? The questions i asked above may be stupid but if someone with some experience riding woods on a 2stroke could fill me in, i would definitely appreciate it. thanks TT!
  25. Paper and mesh filters take a fundamentally different approach to filtering. Mesh filters filter down to a certain size, and for practical purposes, no smaller than that. They do, however, only require a single pass to filter to that level. They work by simply having a very strictly controlled mesh size, through which a spherical object larger than that size cannot pass. They are rated in "absolute" terms, as with the Scotts (35μm "absolute"). This rating tells you that nothing larger than 35μm (35 microns) will pass through it. (1 micron, or micrometer more correctly, is 1/1,000,000 of a meter, or 0.001 mm, or 0.000039") Mesh filters are able to achieve this level of filtration with remarkably low resistance to fluid flow as well, which in the case of the Scotts means that the bypass valve will not open on cold starts, and there will be no appreciable pressure loss across the filter. Scotts Performance Stainless Steel Oil Filter "Paper" filters are different. They can stop even finer debris than mesh filters, but they also allow some larger debris to pass. They filter somewhat the same way a thick shrub catches objects thrown into it. Most tennis balls get stuck, but not all. An occasional golf ball gets caught, but an occasional soccer ball passes through to balance that out. HiFlo Filtro Paper Oil Filter The random arrangement and density of the fibers in the element create odd and irregular gaps through which debris can pass. This creates little crotches of sorts that enable the filter to catch extremely small debris, but also creates gaps that allow it to pass ridiculously large material at other times. The paper element media is also three dimensional to a degree, whereas mesh is essentially two dimensional; if something passes through one opening in the mesh, it's through, which isn't necessarily the case with fiber media. Fiber, or paper, filters can stop debris as fine as 20 microns, or even less. But, they won't stop it all on the first pass. Worse yet, they won't stop all of the debris even as large as 90 microns or more on the first pass, and some particles occasionally come free of the filter to re-enter the oil stream. They are considered multi-pass filters, which carries the expectation that the same debris will pass through the system multiple times before being intercepted. They will be given "Beta" ratings like "80/25", which tells you that it will stop 80% of all 25 micron particles on the first pass. However, they will rarely publish the fact that they may very well also test at 85/35 or 85/40, and certainly will not mention that they tested at only 95/60 (95% of 60 micron debris). Additionally, paper filters resist oil flow, particularly when cold, a great deal more than does mesh, and cold starts often cause a paper filter to bypass. In the Scotts filter, a one inch square of the mesh media they use will flow 1.9 gallons of cold 90 weight gear oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure (70 degrees F). The YZ filter contains about 15 sq/in of mesh, which means that the media itself has the ability to flow over 28 GPM of cold 90 weight at 1 psi. The pump at the corner gas station is less than half that fast on a good day. That figure is also far beyond the delivery capabilities of the engine oil pump in any case. That basically means that unless you run half a shop rag through your engine, the Scotts filter will never bypass under any conceivable circumstance, and will filter at full capacity regardless of temperature. This is often not the case with "paper" filters, which commonly open the bypass valve during warmup operation. So, it isn't a black and white, indisputable, one's better than the other kind of choice, but in my opinion, the 35 micron stainless mesh is the way to go, and Scotts makes the best example of that type of filter. Let me also point out that there is a huge difference between the medical grade stainless steel mesh used in Scotts filters and the OEM brass screen filters used in YZF's up until '03. The brass filters will filter no finer than 70-80 microns absolute, which is not nearly acceptable, IMO. Paper filters are vastly preferred by race teams because stainless filters do not capture water, but paper filters do catch water. Water is the number one engine lube problem and always condenses into the oil as it cools down and from storage. The issues with water vapor condensing are much harder on an engine, than a short filter bypass in very cold weather start up conditions. Paper filters should be changed at every oil change, not because of solid debris, but because of the collected water that they absorb.
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