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Found 11 results

  1. Okay so first of all right off the bat obviously my clutch keeps burning. BUT! Before you go off and ask me if I’m doing things right.. Keep noted I’ve been racing my entire life and am a Double A offroad-racer going through training coaches and professionals even who have won gncc’s i can assure you I’m doing everything right and riding the bike as i should. Secondly manually slipping the clutch is an absolutely normal thing is actually a must have for racing, i slip the clutch a lot but knowing my boundaries by how much i should slip my clutch, and how aggressively. I know when my clutch is slipping, when something’s wrong, or when I shouldn’t be slipping the clutch. I’m using Ams-oil 4T engine oil. And after my stock plates burned a while back i put on tusk plates. Although having tried Pro-X with the same result. The only time even very rarely my clutch stands a chance at burning would be on a major hill-climb, but even then it’s not enough slippage to fry the clutch! I’m getting a fried clutch every &%$#@!ing 35 - 40 hours and im pissed it’s too much money. I’m not sure if there’s any air in the clutch line/lever. I’ve only got 220 hours on the bike so i’d have to give it a look although doubted. People often talk about plates being blue or warped. Mine are just straight up &%$#@!ing black. Im trying to give you as much information as i can but I don’t even know what could be the reason. The bike should be able to handle my abuse, that’s what’s triggering because if you’re gonna make a race bike it better be able to handle a racer and it doesn’t quite seem like it can. Is there any other reason why i’m having these issues? Ask away, i’m glad to answer. Here’s some pictures. HOWEVER!! One thing to note, i am using a midwest engineering clutch lever BUT i tune it every single race to make sure it doesn’t fry the clutch. The midwest lever makes it easier to pull the clutch in, Ive got some tighter springs on my clutch to keep it from getting fried.
  2. hallo There are a lot of YT videos on how to make a pivot turn - i will try to give you the simplest explanation and a few little tricks that helped me a lot. Training period 6 months. Zero Injuries. Multiple broken rear fenders hahah Lets go: In my experience, the most important thing is good timing, slowly you have to develop the feel for it and once you do everything goes pretty easy. The right way to hold the bars ( one finger always on the lever) You must use the front brakes too. One more good trick: body position (you have to sit on the back end of your seat) for easier control of the balance point. Your foot on the ground should just hoover (slide) and you should never stand on it, just use it for balancing - this was my common mistake when I started training. You should pull the handlebars backwards and not upwards, many people do this mistake. This is the procedure: -start the bike -shift into 1st gear -pull the clutch (one finger) -sit to the rear of the bike -press the front brake -push the handlebars forward (compress the forks) -and then all together (good timing) give it a little gas, seat the to rear, slowly release the clutch, pull the handlebars backwards, control the balance point with the rear brake. There you go 🙂 The front brake is important to compress the forks for extra lift, it makes it easier to to lift the front wheel up, once it passes a certain limit - height from the ground, then it goes up easily. The procedure is possible without the front brake but it's much harder (common beginners mistake)
  3. Hey everyone. I've just started to ride my dr650 again after about a 6 month break. As I was taking it down a back road I started to hear a rattle coming from the left side of the bike. At first I could only hear it in 1st gear, after I got back to the main road I could hear it in the lower gears. Where there wasn't a whole lot of noise hiding it. It doesn't do it on smooth roads, and it doesn't do it while idling. At first I thought it might be my home made foot pegs. Alas it still did it even as I was holding them still. Also on the left side the engine is getting very hot fairly quickly. I'm currently waiting for the engine to cool off to knock things aroubd and see if i can find something loose. In the meantime I've been looking up the symptoms and some posts mention the heat shield, but since it isn't rev specific I don't think that's it. Any ideas anyone?
  4. Hello guys. Just thought I'd let you guys know about my Romaniacs blog that might be worth following the coming days, and what it's all about. A dedicated facebook page following me, a pretty average rider, on my attempt to finish this years Romaniacs Bronze class. If you like me are wondering what Romaniacs is all about for the average guy, look no further. In an attempt to better prepare whoever is attempting the same the following years, I have made this page sharing details about my self, my physical condition, riding experience, and ultimately 2017 experience. All so you can size me up and down, compare as best as you can and hopefully better understand if this is something for you, and if so, what class to pick. In the notes section you'll find the most important information like my background, plan, bio etc. and after the race, a more detailed write-up of the race experience. In addition, the news feed will contain day to day updates with progress, ups and downs, bike breakdowns and so forth. I'll also post up a link to my GPS tracker every day, for a bit of live "action". This was all information I was searching my self when deciding to go, and in which class. If only one of you find this useful, my mission is accomplished Please like, follow, and even share if you're feeling extra exited, my Facebook page, so I feel my work is worthwhile.
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