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Hello, 2016 ktm 150sx. I am the only owner and have less than 20hr on this bike. It developed a shifting problem. It will not stay in gear, jumps around in and out of all the gears, running or not. I pulled it out of the shop yesterday pushed it up to the another building leaned it aganst the wall. came back to move it and it was in gear. The shifter feels real simmilar to a small kids quad. where all the gear shifts are one direction, and even though you shift down to first gear you can still just keep clicing it down all day long (if you follow what I mean by that. it does not hit a floor once you are in 1st like any other 1 down 5 up tranny). I have found and downloaded the manual. I could find the link if anyone needs it, but nice guy 10 dollar donation and instant access to 100's of ktm service manuals. Anyways i found the time to start tearing it down, but thought it would be best to see if anyone has had or seen a similar issue be for I start.

I purchased a 2018 TX 300 in November and I been hearing about the magura slave cylinder failure on FE/FC/FX 450/501 but I was wondering if the 2 stroke models were having the same problems

I guess the glory days of winning the MXdN left with Carmichael & RV eh? The tables have turned and the best we can hope for is top five, now. Lord Alfred (shudder) was correct.

I bought this bike 8 months ago and it ran like a champ since I got it. The guy I bought it off of had the bottom end completely rebuild right before I bought it off of him, he had receipts showing the bottom end was only done 2 weeks before I bought the bike. Well I went out riding yesterday and in the middle of hitting a hillclimb it locked up and shut off on me. I was reading that wiseco makes garbage crankshafts but I wasn't sure if it was just because it was a wiseco crank is why it failed or if I was doing something wrong. The synthetic looking stuff they put on the crankshaft melted and seized my connecting rod. It's a 1999 KX250

Bike's still giving me the middle finger after a top end rebuild and camshaft replacement. I've ruled out the decompression system as the culprit but am now back to square one with one big clue. It's something in the crankcase.... joy. Got a video of it doing it's thing as well. Sounds alright when it's putting around, but when you get on the throttle things start clacking around and the moment you pull in the clutch and allow the motor to spin freely it dies. Engine failure happens at 1:25 in the video and dies again at the end but no clacking that time. If anyone has an idea of where to start, or a specific part to start with please let me know. I'm in way over my head here.

Bought new in 1997, my Suzuki DR650 motorcycle in 2014, with 20500 Km on the clock experienced unpredictable catastrophic 3 rd gear disintegration. Eventually in December 2016 the Small Claims Court of South Africa, with Suzuki Auto South Africa defending,the court awarded me my damages claim for the repair of my Suzuki motorcycle. For more details visit www.harryterezakis.blogspot.com

I just recently re-installed my White Bros exhaust system on my 2001 Wr250f. It's a two piece (header and muffler). I installed the header, then slipped on the muffler. The muffler fit very loose around the header where they meet. I tried angling the header and muffler at all different angles, yet still very loose. So I went ahead and used some high temp gasket maker, which failed the first ride. Am I missing a gasket or spacer of some sort? If I push the muffler into the header and extra 1/4 inch it fits air tight, but then I cannot bolt the muffler into the mounting brackets. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

So I was changing my oil in my 2019 crf450l yesterday to put it away for the winter and I noticed some metal flake in the oil. After I let all the oil drain I inspected the oil and sifted through it and to my horror found lots of fine golden particles and a chunk of aluminum in the oil, I also noted that the oil was exremely black, like night sky black, and it usually comes out almost as clean as it goes in. The filter suprisingly looked great other then some particles on the filter magnet. This bike literally turned one year old yeterday, I rode the bike off the showroom floor with 0 miles and it now has a little over 3000. Ive done my maintence too a T on this bike. The oil and filter have been changed either at or before 600 miles with honda full synthetic and a HI-FLO filter, and the valves have been adjusted every 1800, and the bike has never had a single mechanical issue even up to today it runs and rides probably better then the day i brought it home. My first thought was that possibly something in the clutch had went out because the engine and clutch share the same oil, and the color and particles could be consistent with a failing clutch. Today I pulled the clutch and nothing seemed wrong with it, the only thing I noticed was that the clutch basket seemed loose but after inspecting ebrything I couldnt find a reason for that so im assuming its normal. I did however notice a bunch of deep gouges and grooves as well as a few aluminum flakes in the bottom of the clutch side of the engine, right by the slot that goes into the crankcase. So clearly something has broken off and is making its way through the engine. Anyone ever had or heard of similar issues ? This is super concerning because this bike is basically new. Attached I have some pictures of all of the things I was describing.

I've been AWOL on here for a few years but I'm desperately in need some advice/ "expert" help... My 2000 KTM 300 grenaded with about 10 hours on a fresh top end. Here are the teardown pics. Piston is gonzo and the cylinder is going off to powerseal usa for repair. I'm wondering if this could be related to the horizontal play in the con rod? I may send this out to Andrew Cooksey to split cases and go deep ($$$) into a rebuild, but I'd like to save the expense if possible. Any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! -Seb IMG_6216 by ubercooper2000, on Flickr

I was adjusting the intake valves and noticed this ! Should this be absolutely be replaced, or is it OK to run ? Its a 2013 450 XC-F with 72 hours. I had been aware of the KTM recall for the 2013 450/500 rocker arm due to poor DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating, this looks to be the same issue to me. I didn't think the recall had applied to my bike since I had entered my VIN on the KTM website, and it only had the fuel line recall come up. Now I'm wishing I could have the warranty work done. You guys think there's any chance the dealer would initiate a warranty for this ? I'm going to see the dealer this week and see what they say. Any advice ?

Hi All. I'll try to be clear and I commit to responding. And I'll let you know how the story ends when I am back riding! And I'll be stoked! Problem: Exhaust valve stuck open after cylinder head rebuild - valve overheated and stuck in valve guide (both came out together at machine shop). Bike: 2006 Yamaha YZ450F Background: Previous issue: About 20 hours ago head gasket failure and continued to ride bike (lots of kicks to start, wouldn't idle). Dessert riding. Replaced head gasket. new neturon ignition coil because it overheated too Coolant overflow tie wrapped shut (previous owner)...removed this and heard coolant overflow properly for first time on next ride. Failure 1 - First Exh Valve Failure: At end of ride exh valve got stuck open. That valve guide had dropped significantly. The other exh valve guide came out with the valve. (there are indents in my valve guides and key ring type holders....both stayed on top of the valve guide port). Coolant and oil levels ok when exh valve failed. Cylinder head rebuild (reputable repair shop). No valve contact/indent in top of piston. Head Rebuild: 5 Titanium valves, new springs (old ones out of spec/saw a lot of heat), ground seats. New valve seals. Oversized exh valve guides. Head surface machined. Replaced piston rings, cylinder bottom end gasket, head gasket. Ran 10 seconds with homemade shaved shims (after seats were ground my shims were well below stock with the new valves...my mistake but I ground down 5 of the 6 stock shims with a grinder...not precise). Bike took a lot of kicks to start and sputtered a lot and stalled out after 10s. (had oil and coolant) Side Note: I had gotten desperate because my buddies YZ250 shims turned out to be smaller diameter than the 450. Again, my mistake. Leak tester arrived in mail, shimmed with new shims: Leak test: Cheap tester, 30 psig into spark plug, 12% leak, can hear air out exh and intake. Convinced myself this was ok. Sized shims using my buddies YZ250 shims. Purchased correct sized one off shims from local shop. Started bike (5-10 kicks...nothing too crazy) Rode around block...sputtering when not on acceleator. But idled and accelerated well for 8-12 minutes. Failure 2 (current issue) Took it to the dirt. Warmed it up slow 4-5 minutes. Then 7 minutes up and down some small hills. Medium throttle. Nothing crazy. Exhaust valve stuck open while at 1/3 throttle. Engine stopped. No compression. Thought process (maybe incorrect) : First exh valve failure was due to overheating during head gasket issue. Could feel compression decreasing and more kicks to start engine over time until exh valve stuck open. Shaved shims didn't hurt valves and misalignment from top end for short time is not a likely cause of valve later overheating in valve guide. Shims were correct at 2nd failure...nothing to confirm otherwise. Lack of oil wasn't the cause because stem is not oiled (valve seal on stem prevents oil from coming down). Additional facts ( I believe these to be true): Leaky exh valves will get the valve hotter. (not sure if this was cause). Attached pic shows view of second failure through exh port...failed exh valve shows heat discoloration and other doesn't). Only one of the exh valves overheated on exh valve failure #2 Current Plan (can adjust based on advice): Machine shop replace valve and valve guide and grind seat of 2nd exh failure valve. Check oil getting to head using oil screw (just found out about this). Check oil channels in cams. Reinstall. THIS IS WHERE I NEED ADVICE...WHAT ELSE NEEDS TO BE CHECKED SO I DON"T REPEAT. Run engine successfully :).

Hey Guys, I rebuilt my top end with a new piston and the new piston didn't even last half a lap. I checked the ring gap and everything prior to installation and everything was in spec throughout the cylinder. Engine ran perfect with the last rebuild and I included some photos of the factory piston I took out with ~45hrs on it. Do you think the manufacturer will help me out in this situation? Any advice you guys have let me know, thanks in advance.

So I yeah a petcock failure today. I know I am getting older but really? The bike is only 5 months old and 80 hours so gas doesn't sit much. I was trying to run my tank low to switch to a different 2t oil. I was riding solo and was was heading off the single track and back on the dirt road. Bike went to reserve as planned but then wouldn't start. Wore the battery and legs down trying to kick it. Lucky for me my wife was able to pick me up. Anyway, pulled the fuel line and fuel would come out with bike on side switched to on. Not a drop would come out on reserve. Could of been a real bad day. I am running California gas but should it be this corroded? Looks like an anode rod from a water heater. Most of our rides would not allow for a pickup so lesson learned. Not sure the lesson but... check your petcocks and make sure your fuel flows on reserve or just run it on reserve to be safe!

So my son was riding his 2004 CRF80F around yesterday and had a major mechanical failure. I am unsure of the issue so I am going to post it here before I start the tear-down tomorrow. He was riding around hauling balls, as usual, and he said he heard a metal "clank" noise from the engine. Being the 14 year old that he is he kept ripping it and a couple of minutes later went OTB. The bike starts and runs but wont shift at all and when I clutch in and push it the bike only rolls a couple of feet before the rear wheel locks up. I have never experienced anything like this so any assistance would be appreciated. Unless I can spot something externally during the initial stages or get some definitive answer on here I will begin the tear down tomorrow. I will keep the thread updated on my progress so maybe it will help someone in the future. Thanks in advance, Skin

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Hy guys I am new to the forum and XR600R as well. A friend of mine give me his 1995 XR600R after I promise him I will take care of her. Short tale he came from a ride and park the bike in his garage with gas in it and valve open, eleven years after I pick her up and bring her home. What I found was a clogged fuel cock, a messy carburator, and a self destructive air filter. After a deep cleanin process valve adjust (0.003" intake and 0.004" exhaust) I clean and re assemble the carburator using the original parts plus a new air filter. The bike came up to life but there is always a but, first test ride (non air filter installed) she rides pretty well but after I put the new air filter (an after market one ) and perform some carb adjusments (she was running too rich, black smoke from the exhaust) the bike stall or fail at the begining (I can not call cold because here in Venezuela we have almost 90 degrees all year around) but after the engine get hot she rides strong (my test are on hillys paved road heavy on the throtle). Another thing I notice is a tick tick noise around the exhaust in the head chamber Any input will be highly appreciate Roberto