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Found 23 results

  1. Hi all, I recently acquired this DRZ from a buddy who had recently installed a 470 bore and stroke kit. Besides the 3x3 air filter and full delkevic exhaust (holy loud) the carb and cams are stock besides jetting (unknown sizes). Me being me, I got into researching the FCR carbs after hearing about them and got my hands in a brand new FCR MX 41 from the netherlands. It's got TPS and hot start. I ordered the 3d printed carb adapter for the non removable bell and an OEM drz400e intake boot. I asked the seller about how it's jetted right now and this was his response: Pilot- 55 Main- 180 Starter- 85 Main air- 200 Pilot air- 100 Then this...leak/needle 0,0 / OBDVR @ 5/7 Not sure what that all means. Could use some direction on where to go with the jetting. Would like to order any other necessary parts before the carb shows up next week. Thanks in advance.
  2. Have a johnny cash bike (stole it one piece at time...didnt cost me a dime...) apparently. Main frame and motor are 06, subframe was an 05, replaced it with an 06 so my exh midpipe would have something to bolt to. My idle has been really funky lately with the heat (100+ days) so I built a heat shield to keep the carb cooler. On tight trails it hunts for an idle and that gets kinda nerve racking with bike constantly lurching, sure wears my clutch hand out quick. Pulled my air filter out to clean it and it had separated at the seam...whoopsies. So bought a new air filter and its still running funky at idle. Pulled the carb last night, figured the idle air jet may have garbage in it since its right there by the intake boot. Nope, its clean. So pulled the bowl since I didn't have a clue what pilot jet and MJ was in it. I know it has the factory needle and in the 4th slot. Was in the 3rd but I dropped it(the clip, not needle) one position to fatten it up and have it run a little richer (cooler). Well the main jet and the PJ are way too big based on the 06 manual. So for grins I got out my dial caliper and measured the bore on the head side and bam...its 41mm FCR carb. Supposed to have a 40mm on it. So downloaded the 08 manual and realized that the MJ is right on point for the 41mm carb. 178 but the idle jet is a 68! the manual says 42 is right, and from what Ive read everyone goes to a 45. So since this is a 41mm should I go with the 45 or maybe a 48? Not sure if the bore will matter since the slide will be closed most of the way anyways at idle.
  3. hi all, i have a 2007 Honda crf150rb that has an unsolvable hanging idle. bike has full fmf exhaust (powerbomb header and q4 muffler with spark arrestor taken out. you can turn the idle screw up and it will sit there and idle great but as soon as you touch the throttle the idle will hang very high and wont come back down unless i tap the kill switch a couple times. I have replaced the vacuum plate seal and installed in correctly and it did absolutely nothing. carb has been cleaned about 4 times before that. Jets are 135 main, 48 pilot and the others are stock. The throttle cables are not binding up i have checked this. I have tried the fuel screw turned really in really lean and turned out really rich. it made little difference except making it almost impossible to start. The screw is currently set at the factory specified 2 turns out. I have set and tuned the throttle position sensor to exactly what it should be. I've checked all around the engine for air leaks and have found none. Other than these issues the bike starts first kick and runs great. I feel like I've tried everything there is to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
  4. I have a 2007 DRZ400SM with a gasket and silicon sealed fmf exhaust, q4 muffler, and powerbomb header. It has a Keihin 39 FCR Racing Carb with all the conversion parts, 3x3 mod, and No Toil foam air filter. The bike has stock gearing and I am 155lbs. Everything else drivetrain related is stock, and it has 12,000 miles. I have the JD Jet Kit for this bike and carb. What is the best starting point for jetting setup with this configuration? Main, pilot, needle, air jets, etc. Also, the carb is extremely difficult attaching back to the stock air box. Is there an easier way than trying to pry it in? Thanks!
  5. After a couple months of trial/error and loads of research, I finally got my FCR 40 dialed in and running right! I learned alot along the way and saw alot of people running into the same issues I was. I figured I'd write up some of the information I picked up to help out someone who might be having issues. I snagged a used FCR40 from a CRF450x off of ebay for a steal in June. The first thing I did was tear in to it to clean and inspect the components inside. I had to replace the accelerator pump diaphragm and some o-rings. My first mistake was spraying carb cleaner on the slide. There's an o-ring on the slide itself that will swell and degrade when it comes into contact with carb cleaner. Also, watch out for the way the slide/floating plate go back into the carb body. The correct orientation is for the open circle on the plate to face the bottom of the slide and the plate faces the engine side of the carburetor. Anything other than that and you will be stuck with idle surging and stalling. The hot start port on OEM carbs is another issue that needs to be addressed. My carburetor didn't come with the hot start knob so it was just a giant hole in the side of the carb. Blocking it off with a bolt won't fix the issue. There are two holes that need to be plugged inside the carb, one is at the top of the engine side of the bore and the other is under the top cap of the carb near the same area. I used silicon to plug it and then put a bolt through in the opening in the outer case. The biggest issue that took me a long time to figure out was the idle circuit. On the OEM FCR the intake bell is flat but the aftermarket has a removable bell that smooths out the airflow and lets you use the regular air intake. On the OEM models the air intake has a section that lines up with the bell and smooths out the airflow. Without an intake adapter your carb will never run right at idle, I ran a 58 pilot and soldered/redrilled the air jet down to a 60 and it still hung up on me. I got the adapter off ebay for ~$42 shipped and went back up to an 80 air jet and she purrs like a kitten! I spent just as much trying to jet my crappy homemade adapter correctly as I did on the adapter. Hopefully this will help someone who's trying to setup their FCR. The carburetor is worth every penny, smooth instant throttle response and I feel like she picked up some power too!
  6. Hey all, I have got some carb trouble. I have been riding around my 2001 xr650r on roadtrips for about a year. Mostly up in northern california in the winter where its cold. With my FCR41 ive always had the issue where if i leave the petcock on, it wont start due to flooding. The bike runs great, just I have to turn off the petcock when doing ANYTHING.. like stopping to piss .. ANYTHING. I was on a recent trip through Arizona and Nevada a few weeks back and noticed that it was running super super hot. It was 115F outside, but the bike hit 250F on the vegas strip. Ive got a TT Vapor on there, so I am monitoring the water off the block. I have engine ice in it and a 1:8 cap. I figured with these two issues, its time to mess around with the carb. I pulled it apart and found that ive got a 160 main jet, 55 pilot jet and an OCEMP jet needle. The Needle clip was on 3/7 (from the top of the needle). So I set the needle clip to 5/7 and adjusted the float a tad leaner (its supposed to be 9mm). I also set the fuel screw to 2 turns out. Put it back together and MAN, the mid range really picked up. It also seemed to run a little cooler (around the 175F range). Problem is that when i roll off the throttle it bogs down to about 900RPM and then dies. If i keep on the gas, it does just fine. additionally, when on hills, it dies when i get to a stop on a hill (san francisco). Thinking that this is the float. Can anyone steer me in the right direction about the bogging and dying on hills when the throttle is off? It did not do this before the adjustment of the needle, float and fuel screw. I read that 55 is pretty rich for a pilot jet on this carb/bike. Seems most people run 45-48 pilot jet. My main is also pretty lean looking at 160 when most seem to be up in the 175-185 range. Thoughts?
  7. Ok this is my first post so please give me a break if I am doing something wrong. I have a 2009 Drz400sm I just picked up recently. It has fmf exhaust, big bore, hot cams, fcr carb, 3x3 mod, raptor petcock, and i'm sure a few other things. I was aware that the bike had a bad idle when I bought it and it would die if you didn't keep the revs up with the clutch in. I fixed the loose throttle cables and it seemed to clear the idle issue up for the first ride after that. Soon after that it started to have a bad idle again. Now the bike will not even start. It turns over but just will not start. I tried to hook up a battery box to the battery and that didn't help. The battery is charged, the spark plug is new and sparking, the air filter looks fine and it seems like it may actually be getting too much fuel because there was fuel on the plug. It was having some overheating issues when it was running and I checked the coolant to see there wasn't much in there. Filled it up with new coolant. I drained the oil the next day and it was creamy colored. I imagine that it was coolant in the oil because the coolant level dropped significantly in the radiator. I checked the valve clearance and intake are over spec slightly. It measured .18mm (.15mm is max spec for hot cam). The exhaust clearance is in spec. I know the intake is a bit out of spec but I don't think that is why the bike isn't starting. Between the milky oil, the rough idle, not starting, valves out of spec, i'm honestly not even sure where to start with finding the issue. I haven't torn apart the carb yet because the guy I got it from said he cleaned it but I am wondering about the jets that are being used. Please if anyone could help me out some it would be greatly appreciated. The starter will turn all day but the motor does not want to turn on.
  8. After several jetting changes, and chasing after an intermittent failing ignition coil. I finally figured out why I couldn't ever eliminate my low end bog off of idle. After watching some YouTube videos I decided to look into A/P timing. Come to find out, the A/P wasn't really squirting anything at all. After several attempts and different positions, I'd come to realize the only possibility was that the diaphragm was installed wrong. Took it out and flipped it over, and viola! Finally had a strong squirt! Cleaned the air filter while I was playing with the carb, so by the time I got the carb figured out and reinstalled and bike reassembled, the filter was dry and ready for oil. All said and done, fired on the second kick, and no more bog. Nice crisp throttle response all the way thru, and just single pop on closing the throttle. I guess this is what happens when you assume the last person inside the carb knew what they were doing. Because I put it back together exactly how I took it apart. Haha
  9. I've been trying to work out this low speed jetting issue for a while now and am running into some weird problems. It seems like most of the bikes I see with this mod are running either a 42 or 45 pilot and now I'm sitting at a 55 and still having lean running issues. The bike will cough through the carb at less than 3 turns under 1/4 throttle on fuel screw. Above 3 turns it will run fine off idle but the idle sometimes hangs. As the bike sits it's running 55 pilot, 85 pilot air jet, ELT needle (NCVT equivalent) three clips from the bottom, and 165 main jet. Above 1/4 throttle the bike runs like a champ and pulls hard throughout the rpms/throttle position. With the 55 pilot I can set the fuel screw ~3 turns out and I won't get any cough back through the carb under 1/4 throttle but it has problems with the idle hanging intermittently. Anything above 3 turns out and the idle starts to drop and the bike will stall. I'm around 500 above sea level. Carb has a new vacuum release plate o-ring, completely cleaned out, hot start air ports rtv'ed shut, rd powerbowl 2. Another thing is I bought the carb missing the whole tps sensor (might be an issue) but I tested the open part where it should be by spraying propane at the opening and had no change in idle speed. I've got a 58 pilot on order but it just seems like that's big compared to everyone else. Any advice would be appreciated!
  10. Hello all, I'm hoping someone can help here - I'm rebuilding my FCR because it was leaking from the bowl vent tube - ordered a JD jet rebuild kit and got everything back together but when I was checking the slide I found one of the wheels wasn't properly turning - turns out the little ball bearing for the wheel is bad so I tried ordering an OEM replacement (13570-29F00) according to the parts diagram. It arrived today ... and much to my dismay the part is the wheel and NOT the bearing ..even though the part is listed as "bearing". I ordered #18 on the parts diagram, which is confusing b/c it clearly is pointing to the wheel but I thought it would include the bearing since the part is listed as "bearing" ... so now I'm 3 weeks into waiting for parts etc and I really just want to get it all back together .... does anyone know anything about the ball bearing or where I can get one for the slide??
  11. Is this carb going to work OK for my FCR swap? I picked up this 39 FCR from an eBay seller in China. The guy had perfect feedback and communicated well, so I took the chance and bought it. It is new and unused. By the numbers stamped on the body (3900K eaf29) it was originally from a KTM 250 XCF-W USA.
  12. Trying to trouble shoot why I'm not getting any fuel squirting out the nozzle.... (07 CRF150RB) I filled the bowl with fuel and pushed the diaphragm down several times with a paper clip. All that comes out the passage is just a tiny splash occasionally. I have new Honda orings installed and I do not see any holes or tears in the diaphragm. The little spring loaded ball seems to freely move. Questions... 1. How else can I test the diaphragm? 2. Seems to be 2 different diaphragms, which one is correct? http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2007/CRF150RB+A/CARBURETOR/parts.html 3. Which direction does the diaphragm face? (I assume the side with the outer ridge protruding the most fits in the groove of the bowl) -thanks for your help, appreciated Bob
  13. I am running lean at idle and adjusting the mixture screw will not resolve it. I get a hanging idle and 99% sure its lean. I did the side cover off vs on run and no effect. Outside of the idle the bike runs strong especially on top. What should I change to add a bit a fuel at idle range of 1800-1900 RPM's. My Setup is below and I have a Full MRD and 3x3 and K&N. 160 main jet 200 main air jet EMN needle clip 3 45 pilot jet remove pilot air jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod R&D Racing Flex Jet Fuel Mixture Screw Thanks so much for any help you can give, I am struggling.
  14. I took the carb apart to inspect why there was a small gas leak and when I took the accelerator pump apart the diaphram was ripped up And pieces of the rubber were in there it wasnt like that two weeks ago what did I do wrong? Was it in upside down or something? Im trying to figure out what is the right way so I dont mess up the new one some one please help is this the order it goes on
  15. Time Left: 14 days and 17 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    !This is a feeler! If I get a serious buyer I will sell. I have a brand new FCR 39 with TPS and choke. Bought from KTM parts store. I have the receipt that will go with the purchase. Also included is the carb to airbox adapter purchased from Jeff Allgeyer, the FCR JD Jet Kit, the R&D extended fuel adjust screw and the OEM nipple for vacuum that attaches to the head. Also, couple of clamps for the boot to carb. Everything you need to do the fcr39 mod. I don't want to sacrifice mpg for the power so I will sacrifice the carb and kit for the money. Please, serious offers only and shipped to the lower 48. Throw me an offer

    $900.00

  16. How do you do it? I have the old spring out and have hooked the Merge spring around the arm. Either I'm weak as a girl or that spring is too thick. Also as you tighten it, it binds on the post and then you can't fit the plastic lever into it. There has to be a trick, otherwise this is $20 wasted and I'll just re-wire it.
  17. Hey there! I'm looking for a FCR39 to put in my 2016 DRZ400sm. I find it hard to find info on this topic. I want to max out the power on my bike and keep it reliable. I work for a Arctic Cat dealer and i have 3 clients how are looking to do the same on there bikes. can you guys help guide me? thanks
  18. I'll try and give the timeline as best I can. Got a good deal months back on a bike that had cold start issues, well starting issue in general but it got better while warm. Had some issue idling but it ran really strong when you got it up to speed. Tried cleaning the stock carb multiple times (ultrasonic cleaned twice, once by me, once by a shop) and it didn't really solve much. Checked valves and they're in spec, which it should have been for having 9k miles. Don't get me wrong, bike ran well but wasn't reliable enough while starting that I didn't trust riding outside of my local area. Bit the bullet and bought an FCR MX39 which was my plan anyways, and that solved quite a bit of the issues, but brought up more. Start is better but it still takes a while, especially when cold. Idle is steady but will drop and die if too low. I occasionally get this loud pop while trying to start, like gun shot pop. I also now have this hanging idle issue when decelerating or coming to a stop. I can fix it by blipping the throttle which then makes the idles drop. If my idle is set too low, it will drop too low and stall. From my research I think it's a vacuum issue, which is weird cause the tubes are all there and the petcock vacuum is plugged. Took the throttle cables off to see if they were sticking and causing the issue but the video proves that's not true. I also checked for any air leaks near the boots, not it. Pulled the carb last night and only checked the slide but noticed this wearing on the top right corner and this super odd bubbling on the pressure plate. For the start issues I've heard bad CDI, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any suggestions or help they could provide? I promise a beer on me if I'm ever in your area! Video 1: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHRVNfbGhCcUxmWXc Video 2: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHaFVrRnlXcVpQSFE
  19. I have a 41mm FCR-MX carb off a 2007 CRF450R, installed on my 2001 XR650L. This is the 'updated' FCR design with the larger bore, newer accelerator pump cover/diaphragm and a slightly different needle design. The needle has a little extension at the blunt end, making it impossible for the needle to fall through the slide, and also easier to remove when you want to swap the needle. It has one less clip slots as well due to the tab. Here is a photo comparing the two styles: http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/64622985 I want to run the NCVT needle, which I currently have but it isn't this 'newer' style. Just a plain ol regular Keihin needle. I'm pretty sure it will work just fine, I just won't have the convenience of pulling the needle out quite so easily. Can anyone confirm that the old needles work fine in the newer FCR? I have it installed now, so it does fit fine and everything, just not sure if the taper and rest of the needle will be lined up where it should be. Thanks!
  20. 2008 KLX450, FMF power bomb header, FMF Powercore 4 muffler, Desmogged, Air box top off 1000'-3000' altitude. 40 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Humid during summer I ordered the KX NCVR needle. What clip position should I put it to? Had a 155 Main jet, seems way too lean. Should I go 165 or 170? Have a 42 and a 45 pilot, not sure which to use with NCVR needle. What leak jet should I run for best throttle response/least bog? Currently have size 50 leak jet, I'm guessing it's stock as it has the Keihin star symbol next to the number. Float is at manual recommended measurement. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks
  21. so i picked up 2 (what i believe to be) fcr 39 carbs. the guy said he think they came from a 06-09 Yamaha 450 quad, if i can make them work great! if not then oh well ill resell them. here are the number i pulled from the carbs 5TG1-00SC01 5TG1-00RG01 i know there is a convirsion kit on TT, is that all that would be needed?
  22. I currently have a 2015 DRZ400S with 5k miles on it. I have the 39mm FCR carb installed, the airbox mod, and the MRD exhaust. I am looking to do the big bore kit with a set of hot cams to probably finish off the mods that I plan to do on the bike. My question is, with this bike at this mileage, is it necessary to replace or change anything else when doing a BB kit and cams? or is the bike still new enough and low mileage to get away with just bolting the kit and cams on? I just want to do it safely without risking anything, but also do not want to waste money on things I dont need. Thanks in advance for the input!
  23. Seeing some videos on 70 vs 35 leak jet. What is the best accelerator pump setting for crisp throttle response, no bogging when you twist throttle fast as you can? Right now my screw that touches the black accelerator arm is only out 2 threads. There is lots of play on the black plastic arm in the opposite direction. Here's some pics and video of the current setup. Thanks