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Found 42 results

  1. thnksno

    Merge Spring Installation

    How do you do it? I have the old spring out and have hooked the Merge spring around the arm. Either I'm weak as a girl or that spring is too thick. Also as you tighten it, it binds on the post and then you can't fit the plastic lever into it. There has to be a trick, otherwise this is $20 wasted and I'll just re-wire it.
  2. idratherberiding

    KLX450 FCR Carb Setup

    2008 KLX450, FMF power bomb header, FMF Powercore 4 muffler, Desmogged, Air box top off 1000'-3000' altitude. 40 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Humid during summer I ordered the KX NCVR needle. What clip position should I put it to? Had a 155 Main jet, seems way too lean. Should I go 165 or 170? Have a 42 and a 45 pilot, not sure which to use with NCVR needle. What leak jet should I run for best throttle response/least bog? Currently have size 50 leak jet, I'm guessing it's stock as it has the Keihin star symbol next to the number. Float is at manual recommended measurement. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks
  3. KeyKeeper

    06 Franken bike Jetting

    Have a johnny cash bike (stole it one piece at time...didnt cost me a dime...) apparently. Main frame and motor are 06, subframe was an 05, replaced it with an 06 so my exh midpipe would have something to bolt to. My idle has been really funky lately with the heat (100+ days) so I built a heat shield to keep the carb cooler. On tight trails it hunts for an idle and that gets kinda nerve racking with bike constantly lurching, sure wears my clutch hand out quick. Pulled my air filter out to clean it and it had separated at the seam...whoopsies. So bought a new air filter and its still running funky at idle. Pulled the carb last night, figured the idle air jet may have garbage in it since its right there by the intake boot. Nope, its clean. So pulled the bowl since I didn't have a clue what pilot jet and MJ was in it. I know it has the factory needle and in the 4th slot. Was in the 3rd but I dropped it(the clip, not needle) one position to fatten it up and have it run a little richer (cooler). Well the main jet and the PJ are way too big based on the 06 manual. So for grins I got out my dial caliper and measured the bore on the head side and bam...its 41mm FCR carb. Supposed to have a 40mm on it. So downloaded the 08 manual and realized that the MJ is right on point for the 41mm carb. 178 but the idle jet is a 68! the manual says 42 is right, and from what Ive read everyone goes to a 45. So since this is a 41mm should I go with the 45 or maybe a 48? Not sure if the bore will matter since the slide will be closed most of the way anyways at idle.
  4. rraiderr

    Lean at Idle

    I am running lean at idle and adjusting the mixture screw will not resolve it. I get a hanging idle and 99% sure its lean. I did the side cover off vs on run and no effect. Outside of the idle the bike runs strong especially on top. What should I change to add a bit a fuel at idle range of 1800-1900 RPM's. My Setup is below and I have a Full MRD and 3x3 and K&N. 160 main jet 200 main air jet EMN needle clip 3 45 pilot jet remove pilot air jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod R&D Racing Flex Jet Fuel Mixture Screw Thanks so much for any help you can give, I am struggling.
  5. I noticed on my DRZ this carb nipple isn't connected to anything and it spurts fuel every time I twist the throttle, even with the engine off. It's a Kehin FCR carb from the enduro model. Photo here The bike runs mostly okay but I'm having a possibly-related problem where the engine cuts out when I blip the throttle, especially at low revs. I wondered if this carb port had something to do with it, since it's connected to the accelerator pump (which would explain why I can't blip it). Can anyone tell me what the port is for and why it's squirting petrol? Any help appreciated.
  6. I'll try and give the timeline as best I can. Got a good deal months back on a bike that had cold start issues, well starting issue in general but it got better while warm. Had some issue idling but it ran really strong when you got it up to speed. Tried cleaning the stock carb multiple times (ultrasonic cleaned twice, once by me, once by a shop) and it didn't really solve much. Checked valves and they're in spec, which it should have been for having 9k miles. Don't get me wrong, bike ran well but wasn't reliable enough while starting that I didn't trust riding outside of my local area. Bit the bullet and bought an FCR MX39 which was my plan anyways, and that solved quite a bit of the issues, but brought up more. Start is better but it still takes a while, especially when cold. Idle is steady but will drop and die if too low. I occasionally get this loud pop while trying to start, like gun shot pop. I also now have this hanging idle issue when decelerating or coming to a stop. I can fix it by blipping the throttle which then makes the idles drop. If my idle is set too low, it will drop too low and stall. From my research I think it's a vacuum issue, which is weird cause the tubes are all there and the petcock vacuum is plugged. Took the throttle cables off to see if they were sticking and causing the issue but the video proves that's not true. I also checked for any air leaks near the boots, not it. Pulled the carb last night and only checked the slide but noticed this wearing on the top right corner and this super odd bubbling on the pressure plate. For the start issues I've heard bad CDI, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any suggestions or help they could provide? I promise a beer on me if I'm ever in your area! Video 1: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHRVNfbGhCcUxmWXc Video 2: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHaFVrRnlXcVpQSFE
  7. ericsXr600R

    EBay New FCR any Good?

    Hey guys, I put a Mikuni TM40 on my XR600R and really like it, but I always wondered if the FCR might be better. I ran across this EBay listing for a new FCR style carburetor. It doesn't show as a Keihin brand. Anybody buy one of these yet? Its a good price but I won't buy if the quality isn't there. I bought another XR and thought I would try an FCR on the new bike so I have one of each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF-450-R-CRF450R-Carburetor-Carb-2002-2008-NEW/122835304977?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dd8d46407b09b4518913684b5910695aa%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D253192404113&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 Any input?
  8. Joe_B

    FCR gurus

    Is this carb going to work OK for my FCR swap? I picked up this 39 FCR from an eBay seller in China. The guy had perfect feedback and communicated well, so I took the chance and bought it. It is new and unused. By the numbers stamped on the body (3900K eaf29) it was originally from a KTM 250 XCF-W USA.
  9. ClutchinChrisG

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    I've decided to attempt the mid-body gasket replacement on my vintage 2000 slant FCR carb, stock on the DRZ 400 E. If you are like me you have scoured the forums for info on doing this service but found maybe 2 or 3 pictures of a taken apart FCR, dead end threads, and tons of negativity. BUT! Is it really that difficult of a repair to perform correctly? Well I have had my carb on and off at least a dozen times, trying different jets, cleaning, etc. For the last 3 years I've been getting by with the coast enrichener circuit bypassed to at least get enough fuel in the idle circuit to run ok. But it just wasn't working anymore. I could clean the carb out and get it to run for a little while, but after sitting it wouldn't start again. I tried ordering a refurb FCR-MX over a week ago and the guy has gone MIA and nothing shipped. I ordered from keihin-fcr.com. I would advise avoiding... But will update if I hear back and he has a decent reason for the delay. Anyways, it made me seriously look into the "unserviceable" midbody gasket. I mean, you can buy the gasket here: https://www.ebay.com/i/401380298480?chn=ps So today I ripped the carb apart again, but this time to the very last fastener, separating the carb bodies. I even found my smoking gun, in the one picture with the hoop thingy removed you can see the gasket has expanded and spilled into a passageway. This passageway leads directly to the pilot jet, blocking it's flow. Though as you can see every rubber piece inside is completely trashed. Which makes sense, do you really expect these gaskets to last 20 years? Or in this case 18? If you have taken apart your FCR and went, wow that fuel bowl gasket is recked yo! I need a new one! Well you can bet your mid-body gasket looks the same. Really I see no reason I couldn't get this sealed back up with a new gasket and some fuel-proof RTV to replace the epoxy seal around the edge. Why wouldn't it work? Just doesn't make sense to me all the negativity you find toward this repair.... But I haven't finished yet so who knows if it will actually work on the bike. But I think it'll run like new when I'm done. I hope it works out for me and I can inspire some others who would otherwise be forced to buy an 800 dollar carb to do this repair instead. Wish me luck!
  10. Hi, I already posted about this a few months ago. I wasn't sure what the best option was to upgrade my pretty stock DRZ400sm (only has aftermarket exhaust for now). I'm definitely going to be doing the 3x3 mod in the next few weeks but I'm still hesitating between buying a JD jet kit for the stock Mikuni carb or buying a used fcr39. I have 2 questions the answers of which should help me decide. On the local classified, there is currently a 2002 ktm 400 exc FCR39 for sale for much cheaper than the price of the kit on TT (also I'm in Europe so anything I buy on this website is going to be really expensive to ship my way). Does anyone know if the 2002 exc had FCRMX or the older model? Will it fit the DRZ? If I decided to pull the trigger on a used FCR39 (mx or not), are you guys aware of anyone doing a decent conversion kit? On TT I only see the entire kit including the carb, that I would obviously not need if I got a used one. Thanks!
  11. idratherberiding


    Seeing some videos on 70 vs 35 leak jet. What is the best accelerator pump setting for crisp throttle response, no bogging when you twist throttle fast as you can? Right now my screw that touches the black accelerator arm is only out 2 threads. There is lots of play on the black plastic arm in the opposite direction. Here's some pics and video of the current setup. Thanks
  12. Trying to trouble shoot why I'm not getting any fuel squirting out the nozzle.... (07 CRF150RB) I filled the bowl with fuel and pushed the diaphragm down several times with a paper clip. All that comes out the passage is just a tiny splash occasionally. I have new Honda orings installed and I do not see any holes or tears in the diaphragm. The little spring loaded ball seems to freely move. Questions... 1. How else can I test the diaphragm? 2. Seems to be 2 different diaphragms, which one is correct? http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2007/CRF150RB+A/CARBURETOR/parts.html 3. Which direction does the diaphragm face? (I assume the side with the outer ridge protruding the most fits in the groove of the bowl) -thanks for your help, appreciated Bob


    so i picked up 2 (what i believe to be) fcr 39 carbs. the guy said he think they came from a 06-09 Yamaha 450 quad, if i can make them work great! if not then oh well ill resell them. here are the number i pulled from the carbs 5TG1-00SC01 5TG1-00RG01 i know there is a convirsion kit on TT, is that all that would be needed?
  14. hackbenjamin

    FCR 39 (non-mx) slide bearing help

    Hello all, I'm hoping someone can help here - I'm rebuilding my FCR because it was leaking from the bowl vent tube - ordered a JD jet rebuild kit and got everything back together but when I was checking the slide I found one of the wheels wasn't properly turning - turns out the little ball bearing for the wheel is bad so I tried ordering an OEM replacement (13570-29F00) according to the parts diagram. It arrived today ... and much to my dismay the part is the wheel and NOT the bearing ..even though the part is listed as "bearing". I ordered #18 on the parts diagram, which is confusing b/c it clearly is pointing to the wheel but I thought it would include the bearing since the part is listed as "bearing" ... so now I'm 3 weeks into waiting for parts etc and I really just want to get it all back together .... does anyone know anything about the ball bearing or where I can get one for the slide??
  15. Just got a used FCR 39 MX (5NG6 60P117) from a Yamaha WR426-2002, which I plan to put on my DRZ400S. No hoses included. :-/ I count five of them (#52-55) on https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-wr426f-2002-5ng6-sweden-1a5ng-100e2_model42273/partslist/0011.html#results. I think I should be able to reconnect them with the fiché guidance on the above link. However, getting a ready-cut vent hose kit for about USD 50 seems a bit over the top IMO, to say the least... Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vent-hose-kit-Keihin-FCR-MX-carburetor-OEM-pink-breather-carb-KTM-HONDA-etc-/201949142598 My plan is therefore to get some generic silicone hosing and cut it to measure myself. Inner diameter should be 3 mm or thereabouts according to my research. But - I have no idea how long those hoses should be! A friend of mine told me it's important to get the length correct, but unfortunately couldn't tell me any lenghts. I can't seem to find any information about the lengths either on the interweb... So, is there any knowledge on the FCR 39 MX hoses lenghts on this forum? Thanks in advance for any hints and pointers!
  16. After a couple months of trial/error and loads of research, I finally got my FCR 40 dialed in and running right! I learned alot along the way and saw alot of people running into the same issues I was. I figured I'd write up some of the information I picked up to help out someone who might be having issues. I snagged a used FCR40 from a CRF450x off of ebay for a steal in June. The first thing I did was tear in to it to clean and inspect the components inside. I had to replace the accelerator pump diaphragm and some o-rings. My first mistake was spraying carb cleaner on the slide. There's an o-ring on the slide itself that will swell and degrade when it comes into contact with carb cleaner. Also, watch out for the way the slide/floating plate go back into the carb body. The correct orientation is for the open circle on the plate to face the bottom of the slide and the plate faces the engine side of the carburetor. Anything other than that and you will be stuck with idle surging and stalling. The hot start port on OEM carbs is another issue that needs to be addressed. My carburetor didn't come with the hot start knob so it was just a giant hole in the side of the carb. Blocking it off with a bolt won't fix the issue. There are two holes that need to be plugged inside the carb, one is at the top of the engine side of the bore and the other is under the top cap of the carb near the same area. I used silicon to plug it and then put a bolt through in the opening in the outer case. The biggest issue that took me a long time to figure out was the idle circuit. On the OEM FCR the intake bell is flat but the aftermarket has a removable bell that smooths out the airflow and lets you use the regular air intake. On the OEM models the air intake has a section that lines up with the bell and smooths out the airflow. Without an intake adapter your carb will never run right at idle, I ran a 58 pilot and soldered/redrilled the air jet down to a 60 and it still hung up on me. I got the adapter off ebay for ~$42 shipped and went back up to an 80 air jet and she purrs like a kitten! I spent just as much trying to jet my crappy homemade adapter correctly as I did on the adapter. Hopefully this will help someone who's trying to setup their FCR. The carburetor is worth every penny, smooth instant throttle response and I feel like she picked up some power too!
  17. Ok this is my first post so please give me a break if I am doing something wrong. I have a 2009 Drz400sm I just picked up recently. It has fmf exhaust, big bore, hot cams, fcr carb, 3x3 mod, raptor petcock, and i'm sure a few other things. I was aware that the bike had a bad idle when I bought it and it would die if you didn't keep the revs up with the clutch in. I fixed the loose throttle cables and it seemed to clear the idle issue up for the first ride after that. Soon after that it started to have a bad idle again. Now the bike will not even start. It turns over but just will not start. I tried to hook up a battery box to the battery and that didn't help. The battery is charged, the spark plug is new and sparking, the air filter looks fine and it seems like it may actually be getting too much fuel because there was fuel on the plug. It was having some overheating issues when it was running and I checked the coolant to see there wasn't much in there. Filled it up with new coolant. I drained the oil the next day and it was creamy colored. I imagine that it was coolant in the oil because the coolant level dropped significantly in the radiator. I checked the valve clearance and intake are over spec slightly. It measured .18mm (.15mm is max spec for hot cam). The exhaust clearance is in spec. I know the intake is a bit out of spec but I don't think that is why the bike isn't starting. Between the milky oil, the rough idle, not starting, valves out of spec, i'm honestly not even sure where to start with finding the issue. I haven't torn apart the carb yet because the guy I got it from said he cleaned it but I am wondering about the jets that are being used. Please if anyone could help me out some it would be greatly appreciated. The starter will turn all day but the motor does not want to turn on.
  18. Vexira

    Carb Identification

    So i recently acquired a frankenstien crf450 X/R (its a mix of both) and it came with this carb, i've exhausted myself and google trying to figure out what carb this is and if it can be fitted properly to the DRZ.
  19. Troy Shear

    DRZ400 FCR Carb Question

    Hey Guys, New here and new to a drz/carbs. I replaced a frayed throttle cable and put the gas line back on/everything back together. This thing has an FCR carb and I’m just not sure what this extra hose is at the top just above the choke. I’m not sure what if anything it was attached to either. Looked at diagrams and kind find anything matching lots of other carbs have nothing or a red adjustment knob. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  20. troyhaytroy

    DRZ400SM Keihin 39 FCR Jetting

    I have a 2007 DRZ400SM with a gasket and silicon sealed fmf exhaust, q4 muffler, and powerbomb header. It has a Keihin 39 FCR Racing Carb with all the conversion parts, 3x3 mod, and No Toil foam air filter. The bike has stock gearing and I am 155lbs. Everything else drivetrain related is stock, and it has 12,000 miles. I have the JD Jet Kit for this bike and carb. What is the best starting point for jetting setup with this configuration? Main, pilot, needle, air jets, etc. Also, the carb is extremely difficult attaching back to the stock air box. Is there an easier way than trying to pry it in? Thanks!
  21. reip

    DRZ 470 with FCR 41

    Hi all, I recently acquired this DRZ from a buddy who had recently installed a 470 bore and stroke kit. Besides the 3x3 air filter and full delkevic exhaust (holy loud) the carb and cams are stock besides jetting (unknown sizes). Me being me, I got into researching the FCR carbs after hearing about them and got my hands in a brand new FCR MX 41 from the netherlands. It's got TPS and hot start. I ordered the 3d printed carb adapter for the non removable bell and an OEM drz400e intake boot. I asked the seller about how it's jetted right now and this was his response: Pilot- 55 Main- 180 Starter- 85 Main air- 200 Pilot air- 100 Then this...leak/needle 0,0 / OBDVR @ 5/7 Not sure what that all means. Could use some direction on where to go with the jetting. Would like to order any other necessary parts before the carb shows up next week. Thanks in advance.
  22. Dix_Dark

    Do I need FCR 39?

    Hi. Sorry for bad english. So, the main question is "Do I need FCR 39 on my DRZ dirt-adventure build?" I have(well, I will) the next mods: Hot Cams Stage 1 IN&EX + FMF Q4 + FMF Power Bomb + K&N Air Filter + 3x3 mod Everybody everywhere says that DRZ needs FCR 39(or even 41), but I find a downsides: lower MPG(it's kinda important for adventure), and abrupt acceleration, which may cause a wheel slip on mud or when climbing a hill(I know that I need to better control my hand on throttle, but usually I'm busy enought with the terran...). Considering all of this, maybe it's better for me to buy something 38-39mm, but without pump(well, I always can disable pump on FCR if I don't need it, but if I don't need it at all, why not buy something without it, and much less expensive, right)? Also a little sub-question: athena big bore 440cc worth $600 or not? I think that 35cc over stock for $600 is a little(yeah...) expensive, and makes little sense...
  23. SuperMotoFreek

    FCR 39 mm for the Canadiens

    Hey there! I'm looking for a FCR39 to put in my 2016 DRZ400sm. I find it hard to find info on this topic. I want to max out the power on my bike and keep it reliable. I work for a Arctic Cat dealer and i have 3 clients how are looking to do the same on there bikes. can you guys help guide me? thanks
  24. Kracker

    FCR MX 39, need help

    Howdy, hopefully someone can drop some knowledge on me. Please try to follow as im not much of a writer, im probably going to be all over the place....bear with me. I installed a custom "FLOWPRO" fcr mx 39 on a drz400sm :"3x3 & full GPR exhaus, no tps connected" WOT it runs and pulls perfectly, as expected. 1/8th-1/4 its sputtering like crazy or if im just cruising at a constant speed after a second or two it spudders until i crack it open. I had the A/f mixture screw and 2-3 turns out and it was sputtering like crazy anywhere from 1/8th throttle to 1/4th or just cruising at a constant speed. So i turned it all the way in and it ran much better, but its still happening, which leads me to believe it is too rich? I ran it without the airbox and it ran better that with it on there but not a significant difference. It has a new air filter and sparkplug looks good. It was running perfectly this morning with the mikuni on. Jetting spec: Idle jet #40 Main jet #155 Main air jet #200 Idle air jet #75 Choke jet #75 Needle ELQ 4th clip from top, "was on third but ran much worse, the guy that built it said to drop it one more clip to see if that helps, It did help a good bit but still not perfect" other than the spudder at 1/8 throttle and having to have the AF all the way in it runs great. WTF. I tried to give as much info as possible, let me know if theres anything i missed.
  25. Hello all, I appreciate the help this forum has given me over the past couple of years. I recently picked up an '01 DRZ400s and decided to do the FCR carb swap. I feel pretty confident that I managed to read almost all of the valuable threads regarding the CV to FCR swaps on this forum and others. Being a fairly competent mechanic, I opted to pick up a local FCR MX off of a YFZ450 from Craigslist. I've rebuilt quite a few carbs and I feel like I now have a greater appreciation for why the experienced group recommends people go for the new FCR swap kit or something that's off of a validated running bike. There are so many moving parts inside of the FCRs that are prone to wear, the margin for issues can grow pretty large. It was my first time inside of one, so I know for the future. Regardless, I have a used MX that was worked on with heavy hands and I'll do my best to make it run for me. Moving parts are in pretty fair condition as far as I can tell, but I'm having some issues with the rollers on the slide. There are 3 rollers which are fixed with bearings and 1 that's removable. 2 fixed ones with bearings have a little drag and you can feel that the bearings have some wear. It's not terrible, but I'd like it sorted while it's opened up. Prior to replacing a slide, my questions are: Could these bearings be gently removed and replaced with the rollers that don't have bearings? https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_027_su.html Are there replacements for just the sealed bearings? I assume you'd have to take measurements and just find aftermarket ones, which is likely not worth it at all. Has anyone found any good tricks for cleaning these bearings? I believe they're sealed, which is generally a tough one to fix. I've heard of people soaking sealed bearings in solvent for 24 hours and then heating the bearing before spinning the solvent out. Thanks for your help,