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  1. Hi, I have a Yz125x with a Lectron. The airbox/airboot is rubbing against my boot on the outside (picture 1) and against my rear Schock (picture 2). Bike has about 32hrs as of now. I lifted the subframe before and looked at the wear marks on the airboot. They were visible but it did not create a hole, just slight grey marks. The color on the Schock is also rubbed of at that place. I put tape over it on the airbox but it didn’t last long scince the Schock rubbed it off quite fast. To get things clear this does not bother me at all when riding, I am just scared that it will eventually create a hole that allows my engine to suck dust and seize. Any thoughts on this or ideas on how to fix this issue/prevent that from happening? Thanks in advance!
  2. At the beginning of the summer I bought a used 2001 cr125, it was rebuilt & in really good shape with only a couple easy things that needed fixed. Its like everytime I fix something, another thing breaks lol. So a couple weeks ago I broke the chain & it wadded up and knocked the shifter down a bit. It was fine after I fixed it & the time after I rode it & everything was great, but now when I go to shift to 2nd it only goes into neutral & then up to 3rd and so on. So I guess I'm wondering if this is an easy fix or what I should do? Its really annoying not having 2nd lol
  3. All - I'm having a hard time finding a stator and flywheel for a project 1998 RM 125 that I am working on. I found a complete but it's for a 1994 model - any idea if it will work? More generally, how can I figure out if parts from a different year will work on my bike? Thanks! Chris
  4. dropped the bike doing a dirt donut, Pretty sure I broke a pin on the change drum /gear holder star thing (and 1 week from my Friday the 13th DMV test that I need this bike for) but found a pin in the oil pan when I was trying removing the gear changer face plate. couldn't remove the plate because I realized you need to get the chain and sprocket out of the way since I don't have tools for either of those things I was wondering if I could get away with EITHER removing the sprocket OR the chain ...to save money. if not I guess ill just have to buy $400 impact wrench + a $200 master link revet tool.
  5. Ok so I just purchased a new cylinder jug and a new top end. And now I’m having trouble with my powervalve. The first pic is the only way I can get it and the second pic is how it’s supposed to be. Will it be possible to fix without having to remove the cylinder jug? Also I just realized that my old shaft bearing is still in my old cylinder jug, any way to get out? Thanks🙏
  6. I was thinking about filling it with metal epoxy, but I'm afraid that it needs to be open and i will block it for no needed reason that could do more damage to machine
  7. Hi All Trying to diagnose why my bike won't get regular spark. Reading forums I've come across people having issues with their pick-up & pulser coils. I did a resistance test on the wiring that I'm pretty sure is for these - but I'm very new to electrical stuff & it's confusing. The numbers I get don't match what I have in my manual (for DR350). Could anyone tell me if the numbers I'm getting suggest these coils are broken? Pick-up coil (Green & Blue wires) = 517ohm Power source coil (White & Brown wires) = 507ohm I also tested these 2 wires that are in the same connector as the pick-up coil (but aren't on the wiring diagram that I have) Yellow & grey = 522ohm It will make only one spark after plugging in the CDI - this is repeatable. I read on a forum that someone had a broken wire in their stator - took mine apart to check and no issues like that. Also read that the ignition coil needs to have bare metal where it bolts on for grounding and have sanded the paint back there. All the safety switches (sidestand/neutral/kill) are working properly. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  8. Hello I have a 2004 yz450f I’m having some issues with. Bike has brand new valves, valve seals, springs, head gasket, new cam chain & tensioner. All done by the shop. They have ran compression test along with test to check spark. All is good. The shop did tell me they didn’t recognize the carb to be oem, but did say the jets looked okay. The problem I’m having is the bike still doesn’t want to start. I can roll start it 30 times and it might fire and run once. Once it’s running it seems okay just doesn’t want to start. I suspect carb but any help is appreciated on what to look for on these bikes. Bike does have a map switch hooked to the carb with a map 1&10 switch. I’ve tried both settings and no difference when trying to start
  9. Dug this out of an old garage planning on fixing her up. I’m thinking it’s a ‘97 but not to sure any info could help with the parts.
  10. hi guys, so im writing this is because i notice this clicking sound everytime i stear on my crf150r 2014 model. does anyone know what may be the problem and how to fix it? Thanks for your response
  11. I have just recently ran into a problem with my 2014 yz 125. I went out to ride the other day and after 15 minutes i was in fourth pinned (on a track) and the bike bogged out and when i let off it was running like it was lean, did not want to go down to idle quick and revved up weird. When i called my local dealer they told me it could be my stator or ignition coil. i tried the following, clean the carb, new reeds, new stator and still it wont fix it. I am running out of things to fix. this happens every time i ride to around 10-15 minutes of hard riding and ill let the bike cool down and it will do it again if anyone has any ideas it would help out a lot.
  12. I picked up a yz250f for a pretty good deal. All that was wrong was a bog off idle. I thought easy fix just need clean the carb and change some jets, not knowing what I was getting myself into aka the infamous bog that all these damn 250fs have. My current hypothesis on why it isn't working, the accelerator pump does not seem to be squirting any fuel at all. Today I cleaned the shit out of the acc pump blowing carb cleaner and air through all the passage ways, and leak jet. Both the o rings, and diaphragm are in great condition. Still no squirt. The bike came with a boyeson quick shot, and I'm thinking about upgrading to the quick shot 3 just to get rid of the hassle of changing out leak jets, which I am still not convinced is the problem as the leak jet is stock. I tried the o ring mod but since my acc pump isn't squirting it did absolutely nothing. If anyone has any suggestions or fixes to my problem it would be greatly appreciated. Dean
  13. Hey everyone. I've just started to ride my dr650 again after about a 6 month break. As I was taking it down a back road I started to hear a rattle coming from the left side of the bike. At first I could only hear it in 1st gear, after I got back to the main road I could hear it in the lower gears. Where there wasn't a whole lot of noise hiding it. It doesn't do it on smooth roads, and it doesn't do it while idling. At first I thought it might be my home made foot pegs. Alas it still did it even as I was holding them still. Also on the left side the engine is getting very hot fairly quickly. I'm currently waiting for the engine to cool off to knock things aroubd and see if i can find something loose. In the meantime I've been looking up the symptoms and some posts mention the heat shield, but since it isn't rev specific I don't think that's it. Any ideas anyone?
  14. i got this 2005 kx85a last Novemberish and i only paid 250 for it and he said all it needed was some clutch work. i ended up reringing and getting a gasket kit for it just to be safe and i had to replace a shifter spring. when i was assembling it i realized there was a totally different crankshaft in it and it was putting the rotor in the wrong spot so it wouldn't spark on time once i had it back together. besides the rotor keyway placement, everything was fine with the crankshaft. i just ended up getting a rotor that i think is the same year as the crankshaft so that it would theoretically work. i believe the crankshaft is from a 2009 or a 2007. note that the stator is close to the same position or even the same on the three years of the bike (2005, 2007, 2009). so what it's doing now is it runs but it bogs down in the lower end of first gear and it sounds really weak. i have to feather the throttle for a couple seconds to get it up into higher rpms. but once it's in higher rpms it runs fine and it has lots of power. but when it gets back down to lower rpms it can barely continue driving. i can get it to idle fine when it's warmed up. so i'm guessing it's timing and i've already tried to adjust the stator position but not a lot of luck. i'm not sure if it's bored out so i'll have to check because it might have the wrong size jets in the carburetor for the bore. but i doubt it is bored over. if anyone has any help i would be glad to listen:)
  15. So I am rebuilding my 1984 xr200r dirt bike, but it has an xl185 engine on it, which i have a 1984 xr200r engine which needs some work done, like new cam chain. I found out that the xr250 RFVC and xr200 RFVC in 1984 shared the same frame and I am putting the 250 engine in the bike however it is not running and I would rather not spend too much on parts, I found a guy selling a bunch of parts from an xl250 and I was wondering if I could use parts from that for the xr250 engine? Is there a big difference between the two? the xl and xr engines are both rfvc
  16. I just put a new engine head cover gasket as well as exhaust gaskets on my 1985 xr250r. However, the bike seems to have quite low compression and when looking for anywhere that I could maybe feel a compression leak the only place I could find was through the crankcase breather tube. Now, I do NOT have the compression lever set up if that has anything to do with it, and I did forget to put a screw in the engine head right beside it. I do remember seeing something about an auto-decompressor? Also the spark plug seems to be smaller than the stock one (18mm) so I ordered a new one today if that helps?. (Bought bike used). Bike has not been started since rebuild, haven't tried however.
  17. I have recently came in possession of 3 1984 Honda xr dirtbike’s, 2 200’s and 1 250. The 250 has a good top end however the bottom end is no good, seized connecting rod. I was wondering if a 200r bottom end would work on a 250r top end? Any knowledge on compatible parts between the 2 bikes would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
  18. Kaleb Deyoung

    Bog

    My 2 stroke dirtbike runs when it wants to sometimes it starts and idles but when you put it in gear it bogs out. Any ideas on why this is happening?
  19. Hi, First time poster here. About a month ago I purchased a used 2002 DR-Z 400 S for an undisclosed amount. Was ridding it home ~300 miles and made it ~40 short of home. Flywheel starter clutch's bolts (X6) sheared leaving me stranded and left the stater mangled. Fast forward to now ~1 month later. Still haven't been able to take her for a spin despite devoting most my afternoons to her. When trying to start her I would just get occasional backfires, and finally with a different stater a brief start (maybe 5 seconds) on two occasions, now I'm getting nothing, just turning over. So far I'v: -Checked valve clearance (at tdc) all in spec. -Replaced stater twice, once with Chinese crap (just backfires), and now on rick's stater (2 brief starts) -Thorough cleaning of carb (fcr 39 mx) -Tested coil, wire, boot, and plug -Battery is good -Engine turns over -Oil was acceptable -Clean gas (stabilized) 93 oct -Comp test......60 PSI <--- ??? (seller may have vaguely mentioned its a 410?)(crap aftermarket piston/sleeving?) My questions: What could cause the bolts to shear?? It was ridding fine until I stopped for gas and had no starter motor flywheel engagement, why is it now not starting with engagement? If the comp is really that low can that be the cause of my failure to start, and really what gives here? I have yet to test the grounds, where do I check and is it worth testing given my situation? Recommendations, questions, ideas? Will post pics on request. Thanks all -Kindill
  20. Hi, This is the 2nd time happening to me in the few days of riding I've gotten since getting this bike. Took me almost a month of afternoons and weekends to get it running. All six bolts holding the flywheel the the starter clutch shear causing catastrophic stater destruction and inability of the starting motor to engage the flywheel. What is the cause of these nuts shearing?? Both times I had it wot and slowed down using mostly engine brake. You would think Suzuki would have chosen a grade nut that can cope with the forces involved. (calls for 8.8 in book) Which leads me to believe something else may be at work here. All these nuts do are hold the starter clutch to the flywheel. I see lots of people fixing the sheared nuts but not addressing the root cause. Well I'd love to hear some input as I know I cant be the only one having these problems. Thanks, Kindill
  21. I bought my DRZ new in April and have since accumulated 1,000 miles and use it to commute to work (I live 5 city miles away). I was starting to remove the air filter to begin the 3x3 mod and the filter was sticky and smelt like gas. I did some digging around the forum and found out there could be two reasons for this. The petcock is leaky or I left my carb on Prime for some time and the gas flowed backwards. I'm pretty sure it's the second one as I remember one occasion where I left it on Prime for a few hours (my first carbureted anything). I currently have a cup under the petcock and will see if anything leaks out of it, but I am doubtful that is the problem. So I'm looking for some advice on what to do now. I've changed the oil twice already, so it's only been 500 miles or so since the last change, so any gas in the oil is since then. And the oil just faintly smells like gas. It took a few attempts to smell anything like gas. Should I just change the oil, call it good, not do the 3x3 rejet and use the warranty if needed? Or could this be something much bigger and I should go back to the dealer?
  22. I've got a leaking radiator hose on my 1997 Honda CR125R. Could I just swap it out for a piece of garden hose and continue riding for a few hours? My bike isn't here right now, so does anyone know the typical ID of those hoses? I figure the coolant gets to about 200 degrees F, so would a garden hose stand up to those temps?
  23. Okay I started this question in another forum as well but i believe its dead. Im refering to post there which I will paste below then my response hope you guys can help. And thank you so much for your time. Ohgoods Post: experience is where the information is coming from. if hte float needle is worn, it can and will allow fuel to flow right past the carb, into the cylinder, past the rings, and fill the case with fuel. if the cylinder is bottom dead center, it will also fill the cylinder. depending on what position of stroke it's sitting at, it will either prevent any rotation from the starter, hydrolock, or bend /break crank and valves. it's a -very- common occurance, and the main reason why folks replace the stock petcock with a ON/OFF non vacuum operated petcock. the other part that needs to be addressed is: float height (if it's too low, it will flow fuel past if/when the ... float needle (if it's allow fuel to leak past while petcock is "ON" (for an on/off petcock) or "PRIME" (for a vacuum operated petcock)) *** the easy fix: replace ON/PRIME/OFF petcock with a raptor ON/OFF petcock replace the float needle if damaged drain oil and remove filter - light a fire with them fill with new oil and filter run engine 5-10 minutes replace oil and filter run engine 20-30 minutes replace oil and filter again remember that gas is gas and oil is oil, and they should never mix unless there are strokes of deuce My Reply: My crank case has fuel mixed with the oil because i left it in Prime over night. I know this much. I am getting ready to change the oil according to ohgoods instructions. I have let it sit like this over the week end because I had to get the oil filter and crush washers. Im getting them today. Don't worry the fuel has been shut off so its not flowing more into the crank case. But just before he gives the instructions he mentions something about the cylinder placement. Now if its placed closer to the crank case will there still be fuel in the cylinder shaft. So when I crank it after changing the oil the first time will that fuel in the shaft cause problems? If there is any fuel in the shaft or would it have finished draining into the crank case when I let it sit. Thanks,
  24. Just wondering if anyone knows the thread pattern on the clutch nut For my 2004 rmz250 is it right or left to unscrew it! Thanks
  25. Hey everyone I have used this forum a lot in the past but never posted so here it goes I bought a 2003 cr125 in pieces and ive got it all put back together when I bought it it felt like it had little to no compression I can push the kick starter down with my hand so I first thought rebuild the top end I took it apart and everything looked fine I still took it to a machine shop where the guy told me it looked pretty good but I may swell bore it over while I had it apart so I did I bored it 1mm over I put it all back together and I still have very little compression I put the carb on it but not the air box the carb was leaking gas from the overflow but I kicked the bike anyways it started ran idled very high so I tried messing with carb still was (idling/reving) very high I turned it off and kicked it over several times maybe 5 (probably more) or so started first kick all the times I rebuilt the carb and now it doesn't leak but I can't get it to start now still very low compression it feels like to me there is spot on the case below the reeds that has cocking (not even jb weld) could this be my problem?? I have included photos of the bike when I first got it and what it looks like now just so y'all can see it I hope some of y'all can help me with this problem I only paid 200$ for the bike in the state it was in witch I think is a smoking deal but you be the judge
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