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Found 13 results

  1. I recently got a 2003 rm125. when I first got it, the bike was running. I went to ride it down to trails, and it was bogging when not in the high rpm range. Then the bike shut off, I started it again, rode for about 2 more minutes in powerband and it cut again. I couldn't get it running so I had to get a ride back to my house. I bought the actual spark plug (the 36.00 one). WhenI kickstart the bike, it sounds like no gas is getting in the engine. I opened and cleaned the carburetor, and checked to see if the float worked. I put the carb back together, and the float would not move. I don't know what the problem is, can anyone help?
  2. After doing some adjusting to my float, my 2 stroke has started running a lot better than before but started acting a little bit funny. First, It's a little bit of a pain to start. Then, The idle feels low and it dies if not given gas. Also, if I'm on the clutch while coasting it tends to die. Lastly, bottom and mid power feel pretty good, but the top end power feels weak. Whenever I stop it pours a little gas out of the vent hoses. Is my problem still my float? If so, how do I adjust to fix this?
  3. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  4. Hey TT, I’ve been chasing this issue for 3 months now, and have only seemed to make things worse so m I’m really hoping someone can point me in the right direction here. Last week the bike was running almost solid, just had a sputter at 1/4 throttle when cruising, but any amount of gas above that and it was really strong and lifting the front wheel off the ground. I decided to take the carb off and really clean it and rebuild it (I had it off once before but didn’t do that great of a job cleaning it). Today I put it through an ultrasonic cleaner, installed an all balls rebuild kit as well as their mid-body gasket kit with all new jets gaskets and o rings. I also examined the float height and determined that it was slightly out of spec. The floats were closer to 6mm from the carb surface than the recommended 8mm, so I used some cardboard cut at 8mm and a hose that I blew into and as soon as it stopped letting air through the needle valve I passed over the cardboard until the floats were 8mm from the carb surface. After getting everything back together the bike runs significantly worse. I can’t even go above 1/8 throttle without super intense sputtering and inconsistent power. I’m assuming I messed up the float level, but was fairly confident I set it right. Can anyone tell me if this problem seems float related? I know it’s in the carburetor because I made it worse by messing with it. Any help would be so appreciated guys. I’ve also replaced the spark plug, installed a metal hot start thread thing instead of the plastic one, and made sure the fuel/idle screws were right. The bike starts on 2nd kick and isles fine. Please if anyone can offer suggestions do so. I’ve attached a video so maybe you can hear the problem. Thanks
  5. Hello all, My TTR125 has had a leaky carb ever since I bought the bike. It’s not just a drip, it’s a constant flow even after the bike is turned off. I have adjusted the float level numerous times at different settings and nothing does the trick! Could it be that adjusting the float isn’t enough, and I have to actually replace parts? Could I need a new float needle? Or which other parts should I try replacing first?
  6. I have a 2004 YZ250f. It has been running completely fine until one day it started high idling when in gear and has been very difficult to start when hot. I went through the carb and cleaned everything out very well, but in the process i lost the original setting on my fuel screw. So i bought the Tusk adjustable extended fuel screw and have been playing around with it and the idle adjustment to find the right balance, but with only a little luck. I can get it to idle right, but after riding for 30 minutes or so it starts to run like crap again. Basically, bike runs fine for a little riding then i turn it off on the trail and go to kick it again and it wont idle right. Gotta start the whole process over again to get it to idle. The idle is very inconsistent, one moment its right, the next it's not. Also now i have to give it a fair amount of throttle to start when its hot. This is the first 4 stroke I have owned so I am a beginner as far as this stuff goes. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. Hey all, I have got some carb trouble. I have been riding around my 2001 xr650r on roadtrips for about a year. Mostly up in northern california in the winter where its cold. With my FCR41 ive always had the issue where if i leave the petcock on, it wont start due to flooding. The bike runs great, just I have to turn off the petcock when doing ANYTHING.. like stopping to piss .. ANYTHING. I was on a recent trip through Arizona and Nevada a few weeks back and noticed that it was running super super hot. It was 115F outside, but the bike hit 250F on the vegas strip. Ive got a TT Vapor on there, so I am monitoring the water off the block. I have engine ice in it and a 1:8 cap. I figured with these two issues, its time to mess around with the carb. I pulled it apart and found that ive got a 160 main jet, 55 pilot jet and an OCEMP jet needle. The Needle clip was on 3/7 (from the top of the needle). So I set the needle clip to 5/7 and adjusted the float a tad leaner (its supposed to be 9mm). I also set the fuel screw to 2 turns out. Put it back together and MAN, the mid range really picked up. It also seemed to run a little cooler (around the 175F range). Problem is that when i roll off the throttle it bogs down to about 900RPM and then dies. If i keep on the gas, it does just fine. additionally, when on hills, it dies when i get to a stop on a hill (san francisco). Thinking that this is the float. Can anyone steer me in the right direction about the bogging and dying on hills when the throttle is off? It did not do this before the adjustment of the needle, float and fuel screw. I read that 55 is pretty rich for a pilot jet on this carb/bike. Seems most people run 45-48 pilot jet. My main is also pretty lean looking at 160 when most seem to be up in the 175-185 range. Thoughts?
  8. Does anybody know the float depth on an 82 pe 175 with a VM34 Mikuni fitted. I tripped a post that said 27mm, but not sure if that’s too high, as I assume the measurements taken from the base ( where the gasket sits) to the top of the float. Thanks in advance cheers ?
  9. Hi, have an 84 pe 175 and really struggling getting the bike to run properly. Carb was thick with crud, so replaced the pilot and main jet, along with the needle valve assembly. Set the needle midway and mix at one and half turns out. Didn’t run great and raised the needle clip up to lean it out, and 2 and half turns on mixture. Runs ok, but does have a flat spot from close throttle to full open and is dumping fuel back into the box and leaving a puddle. And I can’t understand why. As I said replaced the usual suspects, checked the float and level and all seems good. And although the carb looks good, can’t determine if this worn out, Reed valves or I’m Just being stupid? Any advice would really help, as its doing my nut. Cheers
  10. Hey guys, just looking for some help on this overflowing PWK carburetor. I noticed while out riding about a month ago that the carb was leaking from the float bowl gasket area all around the carb. Finished riding that day and ordered a new gasket and once installed, the carb poured from one of the overflow hoses. I inspected the float and float needle and tested it to make sure it sealed and it did. The floats had a couple of nicks in them so I assumed the floats may have had gas in them causing them to leave the needle stuck open. Just replaced the floats with brand new ones and now the carb is overflowing from TWO of the overflow hoses, sometimes all three. Very typical of me working on a bike only making things worse haha. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Here’s a video showing what I mean https://youtu.be/aaKP1SO0reQ
  11. I have a 1988 xr600 that I bought with a leaking float,(bike had sat for 2 years) have totally cleaned and rebuilt the carb,replaced needle and float,checked the tube inside of the float bowl for leaks and it still leaks from the overflow. I took the bowl back off and inspected meddle and seat double checked float height (14.5 mm) and it still leaks so for grins I adjusted the float height to 18mm. Same leak......whenever I take it apart and reinstall it won’t leak at first, but after I run the engine and shut it off after about 2-3 mins it leaks and continues to leak running or not. Any ideas besides throwing a lit match into the puddle of gas? Thank you Dan
  12. Hi tt, i noticed an overflow of gas coming out of the carb so i checked it out. I assumed it was the float height do i tried to find the spec in the manual, but it is not there. Can anyone tell me that the spec is? or what they run theres at. Also please let me know if it could be caused by something else. thanks
  13. Hello Riders, I’ve a 2006 DRZ 400s, recently got a new top end, carb done, new stator coil and battery. The bike runs smooth in city, but I took it to Big Bear (CA) trails and on inclines and altitude the bike started stalling. Once stalled it wouldn’t start easy, after a few kicks in could get it running but it would kinda start dying which made me rev it more. I increased the idling and the fuel mix to make it rich but problem wasn’t fixed. Surprisingly when I can to staging area at sea level the bike was perfect, button start and responsive. Fellow riders were of the opinion it’s the float valve but it’s all conjectures. Any ideas if you’ve faced similar situation? And what could be the root cause? Thanks and stay safe! Sekhon
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