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  1. Sup everyone, I have just finished a rebuild on my AER 48s. For about 10 hours of riding the fork fully returned to its open position (fully rebounded). Then, all out of a sudden, it wont fully rebound. Any clues?
  2. Hi there, can anybody help a newbie with a KYB fork question. Got a second hand KYB forks and are lost, they ned to be overhauled but I can`t identify the year. According the previus owner they where used on a YZ250 2 or 4 stroke? nor the year or if they belongst to that bike. They appear to be closed cartridge type, means they have to be at least 2005 or newer. All help appreciated!
  3. I just picked up my front shocks from being serviced by Rocky Mountain ATV. I noticed the sound of oil trickling in one of them when I picked it up after it had been inverted. I know there is air in the system, but I do not remember them making that sound before they were serviced. Is this okay? Is it normal?
  4. I just got back from a weekend of riding and noticed my fork seal leak got really bad and is dripping oil. I am going to replace it but for now is it bad to ride on bad fork seals? For when i replace them how much can i expect to spend on supplies if I do it myself, and how much will a shop charge me
  5. So i Recently got my first MX bike a KX250f. When we got it home i notice a puddle under the front left fork. So we took it into the local shop and they replaced the oil and only the oil seal. Got the fork back and put it on and started to ride. three or so days later i looked down and there is a small amount of oil on the chrome part of the fork. So i called the shop and they said that maybe the bushings were bad on the fork so they replaced the bushings and put another seal and new oil. Get it back and the SAME thing is STILL happening. I dont know what to do now so if you have any ideas let me know, thanks.
  6. I am going to replace the fork seals on some 05' CRF 450R forks and have 2 different viscosity oils. Since the damper assembly takes X amount of fluid and the fork tubes take X amount of fluid, one quart won't be enough. Since I have heard or observed the oil in the fork tubes is simply for lubrication and not alot more, would it be safe to run the 7w in the fork tubes and the 5w in the damper? Or should I run 7w in the damper and 5w in the tubes, I know manual calls for 5w HP which appears to be 17 @ 40 so the 5w Bel Ray is about spot on. I am not launching off any major sweet jumps like Pedro and Napoleon(more than likely little stuff, maybe some smaller doubles but mostly trail riding) Also some supermoto stuff running another set of wheels and street tires. I am about 150 and have been known to hit 160lbs when I really let myself go. I have 2 sealed quarts of oil. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 5w(17.1 @ 40) - 1 quart of this. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 7w(29 @ 40) - 1 quart of this I also have 2 sealed quarts of 15w Bel-Ray, but its older than 5 years and will have to be tossed out more than likely. I know I could also run some 0-20w motor oil in the outer fork tubes if I wanted to. Was more curious of any advantages or disadvantages on where I should put the 7w, I am thinking with my riding style, surfaces and weight probably the 5w in the damper is what I should run and the 7w in the fork tubes. Thanks!
  7. Hey all, I have a question regarding two KTM's. I have two 08 450's. I have a XCF 450 and a XCRW 450. I love the suspension on the XCF and want to dial the XCRW in to match it. I ride endurocross and trails with this bike. Do you know how much difference there is between the design of the forks and shocks on the two bikes? I can't tell any difference between the shocks but I notice the top of the forks have a slight difference (see pictures). Springs have obviously been changed between the two bikes but I'm wondering if I can just swap forks and shocks. Thanks, mpuvdd
  8. Hi, I picked up a good looking set of forks out of the landfill this afternoon and am wondering what they might be. My suspicion is that they are 47mm showa forks off a Honda CR something, however, I would like to rebuild them and need to know a bit more info so I can order parts. If someone could take a look at the pics and help me out that would be great. Fork tube is 47mm, top clamp tube is 53mm and the lower clamp is 58.5mm (roughly)
  9. I have a 2011 KX250F but the forks do not seem to be the correct type for this year. Anyone know what year of forks these would have come off of?
  10. Hello, I'm new to bikes, I just bought my first one. I'm getting used to it, but I noticed the fork seals were leaking slightly and appear to be weather cracked, so I ordered a rebuilt kit for the seals. It is an all balls fork seal kit, I read they are pretty good. However I have little experience working on bikes thus far, I was wondering if I would be able to tackle this by myself with the proper tools and some spare time. I am mechanicly inclined enough to learn, and understand what I'm doing so I'm confident but, I'm not sure if there is any difficult parts of the process. Also if anyone has any pointers as far as small things to keep an eye on, this bike runs really mint and starts up first few kicks every time and I'd really love to keep her that way! Thanks in advance guys and gals
  11. I have a yz250f front forks disassembled and the regular little thing that sticks out to remove the base valve is not there. How do I take it out. Does anyone have a link to the tool because I’m pretty sure I need a tool.
  12. Hey, I'm trying to take a couple of inches out of wrf426 forks (going on a different bike, I know there are plenty of opinions about spring rates, pros cons etc so don't start... 😂) The springs are already cut and shaped, a nice job though I say so myself. I can't get to where I think the spacer needs to go. Dark grey ferrule (1st pic) stops you removing the rod to get inside. Rebuild videos of other forks they just slide this through. What am I missing? Many thanks, Sam
  13. Hello, please could anyone help me with 1987 kx front fork rebuild? For example post some pics of disassembled fork...I know that I have to take out the big bottom screw but it is totaly rusted, any ideas? thanks
  14. Hey all, just finished up a CRF450 fork swap on my 95 xr600 and wanted to share my results and build with everybody in case anybody is looking to do this and needs some inspiration. This is my second xr600 in my 23 years and I love these pigs. Project started when I traded an xr120 build of mine for a project 02 crf450 kx500 swap that was complete but needed a frame repair. Sent it to a conversion specialist and after 5 months of waiting and 500 bucks he told me he couldn't fix the frame and I was frustrated so I cancelled the build. Had no luck liquidating the chassis so decided I wanted those forks on the 600 rather then let them lay. Not wanting to pay almost 200 bucks for a conversion stem, I disassembled both front ends and hit the crf triples and XR steering stem with a micrometer and ordered myself some bushings to fit the XR stem in crf triples. It was really as simple as that. Pressed bushings into both crf triples and "machined" lower bushing to retain press fit of the steering stem. I also took a 9/16 tap and threaded the existing hole in the stem on the bottom end, that way I could throw a retainer bolt with a large flat washer in to hold the stem in the lower triple in case my press fit were loosen up and fail. Finished that with new stem bearings and races and turned out pretty nice! Less the crf forks, I only have about 25 bucks in the swap as I ordered 4 of both bushings in case I had to use some trial and error. This method required to modifications to OEM parts on either bike it can all be switched right back. I am sure there are better ways to go about swap, but I'm just a young snot nosed punk and I'm pleased with my results and wished share. If anybody would like the bushing diameters or wishes to critique my method please feel free.
  15. lookin to upgrade my suspension on my 06 cr250, curious whats possible with some work.
  16. I was going to service my forks with new oil and new seals that I had laying around and went to soften the rebound screw like I always do and believe that I went a turn too far. it clicks but doesn’t stop. I’ve taken the inner tube out and used a flat head screw driver to turn the D shaped push rod and it will stop like the clicker is on it going clock wise with the-flathead but going counter cw it does not. Any advice on what happened? I know I need to replace the adjuster screw since it won’t stop on the soft setting but where the push rod sits in the oil chamber or piston type thing is that messed up? Thx in advance
  17. Good morning everyone happy new year, does anyone know or have mounted the 41 mm forks of the Honda xr350 r of 1985 onGood morning everyone happy new year, does anyone know or have mounted the 41 mm forks of the Honda xr350 r of 1985 on the honda xr 350 r of 1983 that mounts the drum brakes? the honda xr 350 r of 1983 that mounts the drum brakes?
  18. Moderators relocate if needed I know someone on here has the answer and possibly the parts I need. I bought on Craigslist a WR426 street legal with 17’s and also the stock wheels. I gave $950 for it so you know it needed some work. I have went through most everything on the bike so far and it’s about 90-95% now. I have been trying to find replacement fork caps for it, one cap has been rounded off from wrong wrench or something and the other has a frozen clicker that I cannot free up. I have changed the springs for my weight and bushings/seals ,oil by using channel locks carefully on the outside edge. I cannot play with the settings because of the clicker and the rounded one drives me nuts looking at it. What years/models will interchange? I don’t think they are worth what eBay wants for used ones, like 75% of new, the only fair prices so far have been for only 1 and I want the pair. I have posted here on the classifieds but no response because I think everyone is there looking to buy. So let me know what other models I can look to for replacement, much thanks in advance.
  19. Hi I have minirocket hurricane pitbike and there are no screws on top or bottom of the forks. There is one at the top witch when i screwed out there was a rubber seal and oil underneath. No screws anywhere else. Is there any way how to adjust the forks without buying new spring ?
  20. Attempting to change the fork seals due to a leak in one fork on my 1984 Honda XR500R with Showa mg3-771 forks. My dust seals don't look anything like the youtube videos, photos, forums that I have researched. Also researched this specific fork and found nothing. Also I can only find information about models relatively close to my bike(XR350, XR400, XR600), but not exact. My dust seals seem to be permanently attached to the inside of the fork tube, probably some adhesive and has a foam ring underneath it that is deteriorating, hence the leak. Anyone have any ideas how to change the fork seals without removing the dust seal? Also noticed that the foam ring should be under the white plastic washer, not on top of, when compared to my other fork tube that is not leaking. Left Fork: Leaking, foam ring on top of white plastic washer Lef Right Fork: Not leaking, foam ring under white plastic washer
  21. lookin to upgrade my old suspension on my 07 cr250. now the question is which is the latest year for triple clamps that bolt right on, and which is the latest bolt in upgrade for the shock? cheers
  22. Hello all, just found this site while looking for compatible replacement plastics and it looks like a great resource with a lot of knowledge. I recently came into a DR70 for free (in the trash) and started restoring it and of all the parts I needed (and bought already) I cannot find just the top triple clamp which is completely bent beyond repair. Is the triple clamp compatible with any other models? Lifan looks close but can't find any measurements to compare. Trying to avoid replacing the entire tree and save some $ since the rest of the fork is decent. Kinda going nuts here since this is the last piece of the puzzle and it's a very elusive piece to find.
  23. Hey guys, Im new to the LA, West LA area, I have minimal tools, street bike is my only form of transportation and the fork seals are puking oil. I am looking to rent a front fork seal tool off someone in the local area, or do the seals in someones shop, throw some cash or work for the use of the tool. I grew up on two wheels, i have lots of knowledge on off road and street bikes, will offer help for help. Whatever it takes, just trying to get these fork seals changed before they bomb out on my way to work. Thank you,
  24. In an effort to redeem myself from dredging up an 11 year old thread yesterday I decided I would contribute some much sought after info to this forum. I am in the midst of a complete tear down and refresh of an '07 WR450. I started with the chassis, bearings, wheels, and suspension--and will work my way into the motor last. I am currently re-springing, sealing, and valving my fork, as the prior owner was much heavier and had it set up for him. All is smooth and easy until I get to removing the base valve (compression) to release the damper rod from the lower fork tube. In the past I had luck just shooting it with an impact and the assembly would be free. Not on this fork.... So I set about ordering the Motion Pro damper rod fork tool (Part # 08-0117) BUT that tool only works on 47 mm and under forks. The WR is 48 mm. And of course there is no chance of a dealer having the OEM Yamaha tool--or me paying the exorbitant amount for that piece of tooling. (OEM part #'s 90890-01494, YM-01494) Then it is off to the forums and Google to try and find some answers. I discover that many, many, bro's have asked about what tool to use, or a DIY trick such that they can remove the damper tube and base valve. Many suggest that having the fork leg fully assembled, with springs and all, then loading the upside down leg and shooting it with an impact driver will release the base valve from the damper tube. I definitely believe this and many report having success with that method, though it often requires an extra set of hands. I aint down with that....especially when it comes time to put it all back together and I am going to want the tool to assure that assembly is torqued to spec. So I set off to Home Depot with a fork lower, and my 2 year old. First to the plumbing aisles. First the kitchen and toilet stuff, no luck there. Then into the pipe aisle, 1-1/4 black, or galvanized pipe looks really close but the OD is too big. Time to get creative. Think about what other applications around the house use tubing, or pipe?.....preferably thin walled. Immediately I head to the closet and storage/shelving aisle....thinking clothes hanger rod. I take the 72" piece of decorative pipe and stick it into the fork leg in my cart, while the 2 year old amuses himself with my vernier caliper. Booyah, lets take this to the register, search over. I am very confident from eye-balling it that I can make the tool from this piece of closet hardware! I take the 72" piece and use a pipe cutter to chop off a 12" section from the end without the label sticker or barcode. (shit, I may just return it doubting the clerk is gonna measure) From that piece I make a trace of the OD of the 1-5/16 closet rod circle end. Then I divide the tracing up into equal parts by drawing a tic-tac-toe, or hashtag #### across it. Mark off 4 of the "boxes" on the end with black marker, and use a hacksaw and cut off wheel to remove all BUT the marked pieces. Leaving me with 4 prongs that resemble a "castle". Clean it all up with some filing, and grinding. Then I bored a 3/8" hole through the non-castle end to pass a piece of rod through to use as my handle. I fish the homemade tool around for a second, and it locks right into place! Then while holding the tool I shoot the base valve, 14 mm allen, with a cordless impact and it comes right out. I can't say for sure...but I do not think it was very tight and a "regular" hex wrench or allen socket would work just fine. Also I decided to take some measurements of the damper tube and its tooling receptacle should anyone ever want them. The outside diameter of the tube that protrudes above the flange for the removal tool is ~28 mm The 4 slots that the teeth of the castle tool will fit into are about ~15 mm The distance between the tool slots, when measured on center of 2 parallel holes is ~30 mm The inside diameter of the lower fork leg is ~46 mm It took me 45 minutes in the Depot to look, 20 minutes to fabricate the tool, and the material cost about $20. I have enough left over closet rod to probably make 7 more of these things! If I don't return the remaining 60" to the store...PM me with your address and like $6.10 shipping and I'll cut you off a piece! LOL I really hope this helps many people, and let me say...I can't believe how easy and well it worked! Check out the pics for clarity. You're welcome...
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