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Found 20 results

  1. Hey all, I have a question regarding two KTM's. I have two 08 450's. I have a XCF 450 and a XCRW 450. I love the suspension on the XCF and want to dial the XCRW in to match it. I ride endurocross and trails with this bike. Do you know how much difference there is between the design of the forks and shocks on the two bikes? I can't tell any difference between the shocks but I notice the top of the forks have a slight difference (see pictures). Springs have obviously been changed between the two bikes but I'm wondering if I can just swap forks and shocks. Thanks, mpuvdd
  2. Hey there, I recently bought a 1979 Suzuki PE250 in pretty good condition for its age I'd say.However the fork seals are leaking and after struggling for a few days to get the fork caps open(they were seized) I have now come to a new problem. The Dust seal Holder seems to be stuck, in the shop manual it mentions some sort of special tool for removing the fork seal but I'm not sure what exactly it would do.The thing seems like it should just unscrew. I've tried whacking it with a screw driver and a hammer and I had some minor progress but its painfully slow so I was wondering if any of you vintage motorcycle wizards would be able to enlighten me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  3. zDirtyDeedz

    E/S Model Outer Fork Dimensions

    As the title says. Everywhere I search only gets me the inner fork dimension of 49mm, but I need to know the dimension of the lower portion that the top inner fork compresses into. My best measurements get me 56.6mm. Image showing what I'm talking about. Anyone know?
  4. TheLastByte

    Which fork oil?

    Changing out my fork oil on a new to me 650l. What's generally recommended for stock springs and valving?
  5. Hi Guys, I need to adjust (and probably do some maintenance) front and rear forks on my bike, so they can work better with my weight and height, as the previous owner was much taller than me. It is a 2015 KTM 250 XCW, and I am near Park Meadows Mall, so the closest to that area the better, but still more important to get a good, trusted mechanic, that someone has some experience with already. I thought about Fay Myers, as I assume they do that kind of work, but not sure how good they are. Any recommendations?
  6. So i Recently got my first MX bike a KX250f. When we got it home i notice a puddle under the front left fork. So we took it into the local shop and they replaced the oil and only the oil seal. Got the fork back and put it on and started to ride. three or so days later i looked down and there is a small amount of oil on the chrome part of the fork. So i called the shop and they said that maybe the bushings were bad on the fork so they replaced the bushings and put another seal and new oil. Get it back and the SAME thing is STILL happening. I dont know what to do now so if you have any ideas let me know, thanks.
  7. cookiebox

    Oil Trickling in Shocks

    I just picked up my front shocks from being serviced by Rocky Mountain ATV. I noticed the sound of oil trickling in one of them when I picked it up after it had been inverted. I know there is air in the system, but I do not remember them making that sound before they were serviced. Is this okay? Is it normal?
  8. Hi there, can anybody help a newbie with a KYB fork question. Got a second hand KYB forks and are lost, they ned to be overhauled but I can`t identify the year. According the previus owner they where used on a YZ250 2 or 4 stroke? nor the year or if they belongst to that bike. They appear to be closed cartridge type, means they have to be at least 2005 or newer. All help appreciated!
  9. mritch8

    fork seals on yz125

    I just got back from a weekend of riding and noticed my fork seal leak got really bad and is dripping oil. I am going to replace it but for now is it bad to ride on bad fork seals? For when i replace them how much can i expect to spend on supplies if I do it myself, and how much will a shop charge me
  10. Fabio Balzarini

    honda xr 350 r

    Good morning everyone happy new year, does anyone know or have mounted the 41 mm forks of the Honda xr350 r of 1985 onGood morning everyone happy new year, does anyone know or have mounted the 41 mm forks of the Honda xr350 r of 1985 on the honda xr 350 r of 1983 that mounts the drum brakes? the honda xr 350 r of 1983 that mounts the drum brakes?
  11. Radek Jirges

    1987 kx 125 fork rebuild

    Hello, please could anyone help me with 1987 kx front fork rebuild? For example post some pics of disassembled fork...I know that I have to take out the big bottom screw but it is totaly rusted, any ideas? thanks
  12. lookin to upgrade my suspension on my 06 cr250, curious whats possible with some work.
  13. Moderators relocate if needed I know someone on here has the answer and possibly the parts I need. I bought on Craigslist a WR426 street legal with 17’s and also the stock wheels. I gave $950 for it so you know it needed some work. I have went through most everything on the bike so far and it’s about 90-95% now. I have been trying to find replacement fork caps for it, one cap has been rounded off from wrong wrench or something and the other has a frozen clicker that I cannot free up. I have changed the springs for my weight and bushings/seals ,oil by using channel locks carefully on the outside edge. I cannot play with the settings because of the clicker and the rounded one drives me nuts looking at it. What years/models will interchange? I don’t think they are worth what eBay wants for used ones, like 75% of new, the only fair prices so far have been for only 1 and I want the pair. I have posted here on the classifieds but no response because I think everyone is there looking to buy. So let me know what other models I can look to for replacement, much thanks in advance.
  14. mripka2

    XR600 CRF450 Fork Swap

    Hey all, just finished up a CRF450 fork swap on my 95 xr600 and wanted to share my results and build with everybody in case anybody is looking to do this and needs some inspiration. This is my second xr600 in my 23 years and I love these pigs. Project started when I traded an xr120 build of mine for a project 02 crf450 kx500 swap that was complete but needed a frame repair. Sent it to a conversion specialist and after 5 months of waiting and 500 bucks he told me he couldn't fix the frame and I was frustrated so I cancelled the build. Had no luck liquidating the chassis so decided I wanted those forks on the 600 rather then let them lay. Not wanting to pay almost 200 bucks for a conversion stem, I disassembled both front ends and hit the crf triples and XR steering stem with a micrometer and ordered myself some bushings to fit the XR stem in crf triples. It was really as simple as that. Pressed bushings into both crf triples and "machined" lower bushing to retain press fit of the steering stem. I also took a 9/16 tap and threaded the existing hole in the stem on the bottom end, that way I could throw a retainer bolt with a large flat washer in to hold the stem in the lower triple in case my press fit were loosen up and fail. Finished that with new stem bearings and races and turned out pretty nice! Less the crf forks, I only have about 25 bucks in the swap as I ordered 4 of both bushings in case I had to use some trial and error. This method required to modifications to OEM parts on either bike it can all be switched right back. I am sure there are better ways to go about swap, but I'm just a young snot nosed punk and I'm pleased with my results and wished share. If anybody would like the bushing diameters or wishes to critique my method please feel free.
  15. So yes I did use a torque wrench, yes I did get the spec from the manual, yes I did go slow and listen for the click, no my torque wrench is not from harbor freight. But regardless of all this, while putting my front end back together tonight I snapped a front axle pinch bolt off on my left fork. Aside from crying for a little while what should I do, would a normal motorcycle shop have the ability to fix this? I don't really know if taking it to a machine shop and having them drill it and clean the threads would really turn out much cheaper than buying a new inner fork tube... Open to any suggestions here.
  16. Attempting to change the fork seals due to a leak in one fork on my 1984 Honda XR500R with Showa mg3-771 forks. My dust seals don't look anything like the youtube videos, photos, forums that I have researched. Also researched this specific fork and found nothing. Also I can only find information about models relatively close to my bike(XR350, XR400, XR600), but not exact. My dust seals seem to be permanently attached to the inside of the fork tube, probably some adhesive and has a foam ring underneath it that is deteriorating, hence the leak. Anyone have any ideas how to change the fork seals without removing the dust seal? Also noticed that the foam ring should be under the white plastic washer, not on top of, when compared to my other fork tube that is not leaking. Left Fork: Leaking, foam ring on top of white plastic washer Lef Right Fork: Not leaking, foam ring under white plastic washer
  17. Ktm520sxrider

    damper bushing

    The oem bushings were tight and hard to take off. I took them off to replace them with new pivot works bushings so I carefully expanded the bushing and got it on easy without stretching it at all and now the bushing is not even as tight. Do these need to be tight on there? I put it on the only way it could go and it seems like the gap in the bushing got bigger.
  18. lookin to upgrade my old suspension on my 07 cr250. now the question is which is the latest year for triple clamps that bolt right on, and which is the latest bolt in upgrade for the shock? cheers
  19. Hello all, just found this site while looking for compatible replacement plastics and it looks like a great resource with a lot of knowledge. I recently came into a DR70 for free (in the trash) and started restoring it and of all the parts I needed (and bought already) I cannot find just the top triple clamp which is completely bent beyond repair. Is the triple clamp compatible with any other models? Lifan looks close but can't find any measurements to compare. Trying to avoid replacing the entire tree and save some $ since the rest of the fork is decent. Kinda going nuts here since this is the last piece of the puzzle and it's a very elusive piece to find.
  20. In an effort to redeem myself from dredging up an 11 year old thread yesterday I decided I would contribute some much sought after info to this forum. I am in the midst of a complete tear down and refresh of an '07 WR450. I started with the chassis, bearings, wheels, and suspension--and will work my way into the motor last. I am currently re-springing, sealing, and valving my fork, as the prior owner was much heavier and had it set up for him. All is smooth and easy until I get to removing the base valve (compression) to release the damper rod from the lower fork tube. In the past I had luck just shooting it with an impact and the assembly would be free. Not on this fork.... So I set about ordering the Motion Pro damper rod fork tool (Part # 08-0117) BUT that tool only works on 47 mm and under forks. The WR is 48 mm. And of course there is no chance of a dealer having the OEM Yamaha tool--or me paying the exorbitant amount for that piece of tooling. (OEM part #'s 90890-01494, YM-01494) Then it is off to the forums and Google to try and find some answers. I discover that many, many, bro's have asked about what tool to use, or a DIY trick such that they can remove the damper tube and base valve. Many suggest that having the fork leg fully assembled, with springs and all, then loading the upside down leg and shooting it with an impact driver will release the base valve from the damper tube. I definitely believe this and many report having success with that method, though it often requires an extra set of hands. I aint down with that....especially when it comes time to put it all back together and I am going to want the tool to assure that assembly is torqued to spec. So I set off to Home Depot with a fork lower, and my 2 year old. First to the plumbing aisles. First the kitchen and toilet stuff, no luck there. Then into the pipe aisle, 1-1/4 black, or galvanized pipe looks really close but the OD is too big. Time to get creative. Think about what other applications around the house use tubing, or pipe?.....preferably thin walled. Immediately I head to the closet and storage/shelving aisle....thinking clothes hanger rod. I take the 72" piece of decorative pipe and stick it into the fork leg in my cart, while the 2 year old amuses himself with my vernier caliper. Booyah, lets take this to the register, search over. I am very confident from eye-balling it that I can make the tool from this piece of closet hardware! I take the 72" piece and use a pipe cutter to chop off a 12" section from the end without the label sticker or barcode. (shit, I may just return it doubting the clerk is gonna measure) From that piece I make a trace of the OD of the 1-5/16 closet rod circle end. Then I divide the tracing up into equal parts by drawing a tic-tac-toe, or hashtag #### across it. Mark off 4 of the "boxes" on the end with black marker, and use a hacksaw and cut off wheel to remove all BUT the marked pieces. Leaving me with 4 prongs that resemble a "castle". Clean it all up with some filing, and grinding. Then I bored a 3/8" hole through the non-castle end to pass a piece of rod through to use as my handle. I fish the homemade tool around for a second, and it locks right into place! Then while holding the tool I shoot the base valve, 14 mm allen, with a cordless impact and it comes right out. I can't say for sure...but I do not think it was very tight and a "regular" hex wrench or allen socket would work just fine. Also I decided to take some measurements of the damper tube and its tooling receptacle should anyone ever want them. The outside diameter of the tube that protrudes above the flange for the removal tool is ~28 mm The 4 slots that the teeth of the castle tool will fit into are about ~15 mm The distance between the tool slots, when measured on center of 2 parallel holes is ~30 mm The inside diameter of the lower fork leg is ~46 mm It took me 45 minutes in the Depot to look, 20 minutes to fabricate the tool, and the material cost about $20. I have enough left over closet rod to probably make 7 more of these things! If I don't return the remaining 60" to the store...PM me with your address and like $6.10 shipping and I'll cut you off a piece! LOL I really hope this helps many people, and let me say...I can't believe how easy and well it worked! Check out the pics for clarity. You're welcome...
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