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Found 83 results

  1. Any ideas where to buy? It should be: 538078>A50mm slide - 50ID x 20 x 2.5Magnum 50 538077>A50mm guide - 50OD x 20 x 1Magnum 50
  2. I have an assembly question for the forks on my 2014 YZF450 On step 27, When installing the rebound adjuster there is supposed to be a 1mm gap between the locknut and the adjuster. Then in step 28, you hold the locknut and turn the adjuster. When I perform this step I lose the 1mm gap, is this correct? OR should the adjuster tighten down on the rod and the gap remain at 1mm? I am want to get this right because of the note saying, "if installed with a gap out of specification, correct dampening force cannot be obtained" Thanks for your help!
  3. Wow, it's been a few years since I've been on here. Glad to see old farts like greyracer are still on here helping guys out. I recently had an experience that I had to pass along though so I thought I'd log in here and see what's up. I was going through one of my favorite bikes, my "old" '06 YZ450. (I recently rode a couple '17 KTM's and it made me appreciate my YZ even more.) While I was freshening up the suspension, I thought I'd lower it a little bit in the process. I've always been happy with the suspension on that bike so I didn't want to go crazy with big changes, just a little tweaking. Anyway, I needed some shock oil and seals and I wanted to see if anyone local had any in stock. (Something that is getting harder and harder to do. For the local SF Bay Area people, we just lost Zoom Cycles, THE go-to parts and accessories store for the last 45 years.) I do a little google searching and find Dave Johnson of Smart Performance is local to me. I give him a call and sure enough, he has everything I would possibly need for any suspension work I wanted to do. He puts together an order and I drive over to pick it up. I'm greeted by an obviously VERY intelligent, articulate, helpful and nice guy. I show him what I'm doing and he gives me tons of ideas and suggestions. I leave with everything I would need to build the shock and fill it with oil and nitrogen myself. The next day I realize that having a guy that's done hundreds, if not thousands of shock rebuilds purge the oil of bubbles in a vacuum chamber he built just for that purpose would probably be better than me trying to do it myself. I asked him if he would vacuum and charge the shock and he said no problem, bring it down! When I went back to have him do the shock, I also brought my fork parts to ask him about lowering ideas. Again, he gave me a ton of excellent information and some upgrade parts to put into the forks in the process. I left with a filled and charged shock in my hand that I had 100% confidence in it being filled perfectly with all air purged properly. I then spent some time on my lathe making a couple spacers for lowering the forks. Just for the h#ll of it, I thought I'd send him some pictures of what I came up with. AGAIN, he gave me his invaluable input and suggestions and it pushed me to make another set of spacers that I could be absolutely positive would work perfectly and dependably. I'm generally a pretty independent thinker and worker. When somebody influences me to be BETTER than I think I can be or do, that impresses me A LOT. Dave's suggestions and thoughts "pushed" me to do a better job and come up with a better final solution. For that, I wanted to return the favor by letting everyone know my personal experience with Dave and Smart Performance. I know this won't come as a surprise to many here, but I just thought I'd share anyway. I'm a HUGE fan of smart people openly sharing knowledge, and Dave is absolutely one of those people. Thanks Dave! John (aka gmtech16450yz everywhere else on the web. Google search that or "john's sky redline".)
  4. My question is in regards to my front forks for the second-hand bike I just purchased. I have been looking all over the internet for the last three days to find out a similar issue to mine, so I know where to start. When ever the bike is off the stand there is a excessive amount of slack in the front forks from the point where I pull the handlebars up to fully extend the forks to the point where the settled without out my weight on them. The issue is that there is virtually no tension in the process. The vertical free play/slack is far too much. Low oil, Shock springs worn, a need for spacers? I don't see any signs of leaking on the bushings. Compared to my other bike it is nowhere near the same. Im just wondering where to start and to look to help fix this because I can't find any troubleshooting that relates to this issue or has a term for this excessive vertical free play in the forks . The bike is a 2004 KX100. Any Info would be much appreciated. Thanks
  5. The standard front shocking is too soft and making my ttr 230 squirrelly and hard to control. I cannot find any way of beefing up the suspension and I cannot find any companies that offer stiffer springs. I weigh 210 lbs. Any suggestions to improve the suspension?
  6. Hi Folks! I decided that I am tired of my 06 WR250F having horrible damping (i.e. none at all) and so am going to upgrade the suspension. My questions for you are, 1. Is it worth it, given the age of the bike and cost of the parts, to find old 06-07 YZ250F SSS twin chamber forks and shock and rebuild/upgrade them, or just install a gold valve or similar in my single chamber WR forks? I like the idea of bolting on YZ TC forks and shock, but the cost at this point for them both runs about $500-$600 and they are guaranteed to be clapped out and need a full rebuild/upgrade, just like my WR forks/shock. 2. Race Tech offers a compression gold valve available, but not a rebound gold valve. Can you tell me why this is? I would like both, of course. 3. Will YZ450F components work as well? If so, what year range? 4. Ohlins drop in cartridges look awesome, but front and rear would cost the worth of the bike ;-) Thank you for the help!
  7. Great illustration on how to calculate triple clamp offset: http://litetek.co/Guide_TripleClampOffset_Honda_CB1.html
  8. I need to do the forks on: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 Is there a trick to getting the compression damper piece out without that special fork cap tool? Heres what im talking about: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 I rebuilt a pair of AOS forks with no special tools but I think the compression body came out with a 17mm socket. It was off a 2008 KLX450, I'm PRETTY sure top looked like this: Maybe someone can verify that 2008 KLX450R forks have that style of top cap. I cant remember and the bike is not in my possession atm. I dont like buying model specific tools so if there is a trick to getting those compression caps off let me know!
  9. So I purchased a 1999 RM 125 over the summer, and have been riding it weekly on various tracks. I happened to blow both fork seals while at the track one day last week, and decided to give the ol' "Seal Mate" a shot at removing suspected debris. Turns out, the seals are infact blown out. So I purchased a Pivot Works 1999 RM 125 fork rebuild kit off of Ebay (verified seller) and it turns out the seals and bushings are the wrong size. So I contacted the guy whom I purchased the dirt bike from, and he said that he suspected that the forks on the bike were in fact NOT OEM 1999 RM 125 forks. So I have contacted Showa, Suzuki, AND Pivot Works to try and find out what year these forks are from. I have attached a picture of the Fork ID's in this post, any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
  10. Hi, I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot. I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled. I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled? I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock. I must have been made of cheap pot-metal. Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism? Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome! Thanks!
  11. I am going to replace the fork seals on some 05' CRF 450R forks and have 2 different viscosity oils. Since the damper assembly takes X amount of fluid and the fork tubes take X amount of fluid, one quart won't be enough. Since I have heard or observed the oil in the fork tubes is simply for lubrication and not alot more, would it be safe to run the 7w in the fork tubes and the 5w in the damper? Or should I run 7w in the damper and 5w in the tubes, I know manual calls for 5w HP which appears to be 17 @ 40 so the 5w Bel Ray is about spot on. I am not launching off any major sweet jumps like Pedro and Napoleon(more than likely little stuff, maybe some smaller doubles but mostly trail riding) Also some supermoto stuff running another set of wheels and street tires. I am about 150 and have been known to hit 160lbs when I really let myself go. I have 2 sealed quarts of oil. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 5w(17.1 @ 40) - 1 quart of this. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 7w(29 @ 40) - 1 quart of this I also have 2 sealed quarts of 15w Bel-Ray, but its older than 5 years and will have to be tossed out more than likely. I know I could also run some 0-20w motor oil in the outer fork tubes if I wanted to. Was more curious of any advantages or disadvantages on where I should put the 7w, I am thinking with my riding style, surfaces and weight probably the 5w in the damper is what I should run and the 7w in the fork tubes. Thanks!
  12. So I recently bought a used 2005 Yamaha Yz85. The bike is generally in pretty good condition; a few things missing here and there, but nothing that isn’t expected on a used two stroke. One thing though is an issue: the forks. The forks are very hard and barely move a lot of the time. When they do move, they go down with a lot of resistance, but then get stuck were they were pushed to and very slowly come about half way back up. When you push them down they leave a little ring of residue where they stopped. Do the fork seals need replaced, does it need new fork oil, or is it something more serious? Any info is appreciated.👍
  13. Could any body tell me what would be necessary to swap 2019 yz 250 KYB SSS forks to a 2001 yz250. Thanks guys!
  14. Hello, guys I have an issue with my dirt bike, I have an '05 wr250f which has the springs too stiff for me, so I want to put another ones for my weight, the problem is that the previous owner changed the rear shock to an OHLINS one with a spring 596 11/54 030 and the front suspension with something that I do not know what brand it is. I will attach some picture please have a look at them and give an opinion on the brand. Thanks !
  15. Folks, I'm trying to determine why my front forks start undulating forward and backward when I'm in upper gears over 40 mph. Not sure if it's the forks or if the wheel is imbalanced. Forgive any ignorance, it's only my second bike 2012 Husaberg TE 250 and I haven't experienced this before. Thx
  16. I'm helping my son replace the seals on his 2004 CRF250x Showa forks. As per the service manual, We pull the cartridge and drain the tube. We extend the rod, fill with oil, proceed to pump, pump, pump the rod to bleed the air, then fill the oil to the proper level and reinsert the cartridge. At this point all seems right, as the rod extends on its own when compressed. Now, following the service manual, we pump the piston rod to full stroke and drain the extra oil from the oil hole. However, it seems like much more than 17cm3 of oil comes out. And once drained, the rod will not extend on its own more than and inch. Something certainly isn't right. What am I missing here?
  17. New to dirt bike riding and need to service forks and replace fork seals. I have air bleeders buttons on my fork caps. To use the fork cap tool I'll need remove them when I tighten down the cap to the damper assembly. My question is will I have a problem with oil trying to come out the air bleed or air getting in when I have them out reassembling the damper together. Or do I need to buy oem air bleed screws. Thanks
  18. Hi, I have cracked both of the spring guides on my 2017 300rr sachs OC forks. I need any help or suggestions on sourcing the spring guides separately, as you can see from the parts picture I can only buy the complete damper assemblies. Just can't justify about $900 for 2 plastic parts. Does anyone know if any other fork brand (eg WP KYB SHOWA) spring guides can fit into the sachs OC ? Cheers
  19. Anyone know the torque specs for the upper and lower bridge for the forks on a 1994 Honda CR 250R?
  20. Basicly what the title says, I weigh 100lbs and ride a 2002 yz 250 I just bought this bike and its the newest and nicest bike I have ever owned im pretty proud of it lol (upgraded from a 1989 rm 250) Anyways I have never had suspension set up for myself on any bike I have ever owned besides clickers. my forks are leaking and I need to rebuild them so while im in there what all can I do too make this bike ride butter smooth for my weight? any advice on what and how I can set up this bike too ride best for me would be great. I cant seem too find anything with my weight on a bike this big any help would be greatly appreciated also I ride mostly trails roots rocks etc.
  21. Hello. So ive always stalked this page but this is my first post. I recently just bought a 2002 xr100 and the thing is great. I wanted to beef up the suspension so i picked up and installed the BBR front springs and rear shock. Rear shock was a b**** to install myself but it got done. However, the front springs are were im finding an issue. Theu were easy to install, and i added 15w belray fork oil. The bbr springs were about an inch bigger and required some compression to close the fork cap. The front feels stiffer however, it now makes a loud CHUNK when going off jumps or bumps. I dont know much about the science about suspension but id assume The rebound is too fast? Ive looked into and ive heard different things, such as, changing the oil to 20w, (which i will do next) cuting some of the spring off and adding a pvc spacer. I plan to minimoto this xr100 and abuse this bike...but not willing to pay top dollar. What can i do? Does anyone have any idea? Thanks in advance.
  22. One of the major shortfalls of the DRZ400 is the front/rear suspension in stock form. Early non adjustable forks were too spongy soft and later adjustable forks were stiff and tracked poorly. The rebound only adjustable rear shock was a bit better than the front end but still left a lot to be desired. Compared to my Husqvarna 610 it felt downright anemic and dangerous. While you can sink a bunch of money into revalving, respring, racetech, ect. and end up with a nice ride, I was more interested in what I might get with a bolt on swap. If you read through the forums there is ample info about which forks can swap onto the DRZ with the RM forks being the preferred. However, there are lots of variations in offset which complicate which year to buy, it's a little vague what exactly is direct compatible, and there are a ton of opinions on how it will ride better/worse etc, but very few reports back from people who have made the swap. That's why I'm writing this up. I chose to take a less expensive route which I feel looks better and performs to a level Im used to with my 2 stroke MX bikes. I direct swapped the triples and forks from an 05 RM250, reusing my stock wheel, rotor, caliper, and headlight with a DRZ400SM headlight mount, all sourced online for less than $200. All of this was direct bolt on with no modification. This change alone was night and day better in every way. It held a line with much more confidence and less chatter, it handles soft sand more like it's riding on it and less like it occasionally plows, it rides much smoother at higher speeds, and it's less twitchy as opposed to more. It felt much more nimble and lighter even though any weight loss was minimal. With just the front end swapped It immediately felt on par with my Husqvarna. In fact, it feels so much like my 2 stroke MX bike that I was genuinely suprised. This was all with the stock rear shock which now felt too soft and the new limiting factor. For the rear I direct swapped an 06 RM125 rear shock and reused my stock drz spring to help manage my weight. Realistically I should be running a slightly stiffer spring but with the addition of adjustable high speed/low speed compression that comes on the rm125 shock, the rear end management feels again substantially improved. The speed, confidence, and aggression at which I can take obstacles feels like a completely different bike. It does sit higher. By my measurements it has a bit more travel now. To my surprise, it feels better on the road up to 80mph and tracks very well with maybe a tad more brake dive than stock. All this being said, I'm not saying you should make the swap. I'm not saying it handles better than a boat load of money thrown at the stock forks. I'm not saying that my style of Southern California Ocotillo Wells desert riding is directly comparable to your style of riding. What I am saying is there is a lot of erroneous information about how this swap might perform and if it's worth it over stock. I feel based on cost and performance that it hands down is absolutely worth it! Feel free to post up if you want to know more. I would have appreciated some real world experience before I nervously made the leap.
  23. guys i have a 76 rm250 race bike..sorted and is a good bike my question is..... can i put 78 forks on my bike or do i need to put the 78 triples and forks al in one....also i have a 78 swingarm, will that bolt straight on as well... i have a parts bike with motor that is a 78
  24. I am getting back into motocross after a 7 year hiatus. took my bike to the track and the braking bumps almost fractured my wrists it was so choppy. I am 195 lb w gear and the rear spring is a little too soft, I set the sag and now the free sag is a little tight. However in corners its like the front doesn't even work, like I'm riding a bicycle with no forks. Im not a slower rider and I am heavy for the bike so I don't know why it won't absorb more when in turns. Only went out a couple times with this bike. Stock fork springs are 4.8 kg. Called enzo and the tech recommended stiffer fork springs? said I could be riding toward the middle of the stroke creating a tighter more harsh ride since it is more compressed. I honestly don't know if I need stiffer or softer front since I have been out the game for almost a decade. Anyone else getting the same results through braking bumps??
  25. hey everyone, new to forum, i have some questions about setting up my forks. my bike is a 2006 crf250r, im 65kg 175cm, i mostly ride enduro, the suspension has stock springs 0.45kg/mm. so my question is what to do to soften the forks? for my weight the bike's suspension feels waaay to stiff, i got the clickers on full soft both rebound and compression. i just opened the forks to change the oil. should i change the mid/base valve stacks? if yes which shims should i remove? should i aim in getting more float by removing some shims from midvalve? or should i go for softer springs maybe? my shims stacks: base valve: 11 30mmx0.10mm 1 30x0.10 3 30x0.10 1 25x0.10 1 29x0.10 1 28x0.10 1 27x0.10 1 26x0.10 1 25x0.10 1 24x0.10 1 23x0.10 1 22x0.10 1 21x0.10 1 20x0.10 1 19x0.10 1 18x0.10 SPACER 30,5mmx2mm 1 16x0.20 1 11x0.20 1 12x0.10 1 13x0.10 1 14x0.10 1 15x0.10 10 16x0.10 MID VALVE REBOUND: 3 16mmx0.30mm 1 11x0.20 1 12x0.10 1 13x0.10 1 14x0.10 1 15x0.10 1 16x0.10 1 12x0.10 1 18x0.10 2 20x0.10 COMPRESSION FLOAT=0,35mm COMPRESSION: 6 20mmX0.10mm 4 17X0.10 3 10x0.20 Thanks a lot in advise!
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