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Found 45 results

  1. rraiderr

    Oversized Tank

    What is the best option for a quality oversized tanks that fits with the least amount of mods for a 2013 SM with FCR39 that already has the high clearance choke. I plan to do the aftermarket petcock at the same time, any issues with fitment of the petcock and oversized tank? Thanks for the help.
  2. dannyrg85

    Should I replace factory jets?

    Hey guys, out of curiosity what are your opinions on stock jets vs aftermarket (jd jetting). I was also considering a 3*3 mod on the airbox. Are both of these things worth the time/money for the performance?
  3. I just picked up a 2012 Beta 400 RR Enduro and I know they have a fairly short range. I tend to ride to the trail so I'd like to have the peace of mind that I'll make it back. I've looked around for larger tanks from makers such as Acerbi and IMS but can only find aux tanks for the bar and rear. Is there another tank out there that works on the newer Beta 400s?
  4. BennyShotaDoe

    What is causing fuel starvation

    Just rebuilt the carb on my 1980 Suzuki TS250 and when I took it apart I noticed the tab on the float that contacts the needle was bent in a way that would force the needle to close. I think the guy I bought the bike from did this in an attempt to stop gas from running all over his garage when he forgot to shut the pet cock off. The problem is that I wasn't getting gas to run down the fuel line fast enough to run the engine continuously. It usually will run for 4ish miles before it starts to chug and eventually die. So I tried to solve the problem... so I bent the tab flush with the rest of the bracket that holds the floats thinking this would allow the needle to separate from the seat and allow gas flow into the carb breaking the vacuum that is preventing the gas from flowing. However this did not fix the problem completely. I know there is no gas because I have a clear fuel filter installed. I am now wondering if I have an issue with the petcock not allowing gas to flow out or the carb is making a vacuum that won't allow gas to flow down the fuel line and reach the carb. The problem isn't the fuel filter restricting flow because there isn't gas getting into the filter. Also, I don't have a vacuum line attached to my petcock. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  5. I have a weekend warrior toy hauler with a 35 gallon fuel station. Relatively new gas tank. Replaced the fuel pump. But fuel trickles out to the hose. Replaced that and still not flowing fuel. The pump sounds like it is working. Any Ideas?
  6. Hi guys! I own a DRZ400s and have a question about taking a different approach to the standard leaky petcock Fix. So, I just ordered the fix a lot of people recommended on here for the leaky stock petcock: The Petcock off of a Yamaha Raptor. I did this after looking for other vacuum petcocks and not finding good alternatives. However, I found a part made by Pingel, and was wondering if it would work in conjunction with the Yamaha Raptor petcock, in order to give me the perks of the Suzuki Vacuum Petcock, without it's shoddy craftsmanship and limited life. Could one of you guys help me out, and tell me if this would work? Do I just place the Pingel Inline Vacuum Valve on the fuel line between the Raptor Petcock and the Carb? Or does the Pingel Valve work as a petcock all on it's own? Thanks guys. Besides hitting the dirt often, I am trying to use my DRZ to zip around Los Angeles and make deliveries with postmates/grubhub/etc, so I would not like have to shut off the manual petcock every time I hop on/off the bike. Thanks again guys!
  7. Charles Mrizek

    for sale 85-87 XR600R Fuel joint set #9

    contact me if you're interested.
  8. So I just installed a natural color oversized gas tank on my drz and now it’s a lot easier to see what’s in my fuel being the light color of the tank , sometimes after I refuel at a pump I notice little amounts of debris in my fuel anyone else seeing this as well ?
  9. I drove 209 from Pottsville to Tamaqua a couple of weeks back. Along the way, there was a small, old-timey gas station with a hand written sign out front saying "ethanol free high test". I could not stop to investigate as I was following a guy and had no idea where I was or where I was going. I am always on the hunt for some 93 octane pure-gasoline. In my last trip to Virginia, I found a lot of low-test pure gasoline for only about $0.30 more than regular ethanol, but no high test. And I don't need to pay $10/gallon for 100+ octane racing fuel (which is at least easy to find). Does anyone know about this station? How much do they charge? Is it for real? etc.?
  10. I love DIY's. Couldn't find one on how to fix the radiator shroud fixing points in the fuel tank so I thought I'd make one. My bike is a 1999 KX250. Materials: - Insert screws - M6 screw and possibly a couple of nuts and washers - Drill - Alcohol cleaner - JB Weld Plastic Bonder - Grease This is the fuel tank. Bought it recently a repair that didn't hold up: Previous repair done with a impact nut, didn't do the job: The answer is insert nuts for wood. Can be bought at hardware stores and on eBay. You also need a M6 screw the same length as the insert. Mine were a little bit to long, fixed it with a couple of washers: 1. Start by drilling out the holes to fit the insert. In my case, that's 9.5mm: 2. Clean out the holes and the inserts with alcohol or similar: 3. Add some grease to the M6 screws and washers, you don't want the glue to stick to them: 4. Mount them together, be careful not to get grease on the outside of the inserts: 4. Use a good epoxy. Fat plastics are not easy to glue, JB Weld Plastic Bonder is the only one I could find that is recommended for fuel tanks. Also available in black. 5. Mix the glue according to instructions and fill half the hole, try to get rid of air pockets. I'd recommend you to do one hole at a time. 6. Screw in the inserts and remove excess glue. Then remove the M6. If you are worried the insert will follow the screw out you could do it like this. Keeping the screw still while releasing the nut will make them easier to remove. Mine came out without any problems: Looks a bit beaten up from the last repair but I'm certain it will hold up! And don't redo the mistake of over torquing the bots
  11. My son's 1983 RM80 has been giving me stress the last few days . it was performing great as it should then out of no where it has no high rpm power , will not hit power band . It starts great , it idles fine , part throttle performance is also good , it will perform as it should until it wants to start revving out , then it just lays down . The low end power feels about right , but will not open up . It acts just like a 4 barrel carb that has the secondaries locked shut ( for us old school guys !! ) Actions Taken : (In no specific order ) 1. Removed carb , disassembled and cleaned out thoroughly , checked all related components , checked float height / drop . all checks out good imo . no debris was found in any passages etc . 2. Cleaned and re-oiled the air filter . 3. Replaced spark plug with new NGK , played with plug gap as a test . regapped plug to OEM spec then reinstalled . 4.The spark plug always seemed to come out looking dry (lack of fuel) Removed fuel tank petcock and checked for a plugged line , but checks out good . Good fuel flow ! 5. Fuel was drained out of tank and carb , replaced with new Premium Shell fuel and proper mix at 25:1 using good quality 2 stroke oil . 6. Removed cylinder , installed new Wiseco piston & rings , fresh gaskets , honed pot . Piston to skirt clearance was a tad out of spec , but still runs and has good compression .Checked the reed valve while apart , looked fine too , no problems that i could see . 7. Checked for bad / leaking crank seals . No indication of leaks were found . Engine idles smooth , when warmed up is very responsive when you blip the throttle . And , so my problem still exits . I'm by no means a 2 stoke tuning wizard , so i'm here to ask for some help . Thanks in advance for any help / input .
  12. I'm new to this form and have a couple of my bikes I have questions on. First bike is my 2003 KTM 450 SX. It runs great and I can run it down the road throttle and on trails no problem without it dying on me. But when I jump it, it spits, sputters and dies. So when I land I need to pop the clutch to get it started again. Any idea what this could be? second question is on my 2003 KTM 125 sx. When I'm riding it it tends to surge around 3/4 to full throttle. But when I let off it will kinda go back to normal. I've cleaned the carb, new air cleaner, fresh rebuild, just can't figure it out. any help would be appreciated. I am a marine mechanic so I usually can figure this kind of stuff out but I've been stuck on these two bikes for awhile. Thanks
  13. Good evening tt! New guy here! I have an 01 yz125 i fully restored and rebuilt from ground up. However i am now hitting an issue with the bike where it is breaking up half throttle, seemingly right before powerband. This occurs on or of choke too.The bike is all stock aside from New top end and bottom end and seals, which are all stock spec. My carburetor and jetting all checks out. My reeds are good. It has a brand new plug and new fuel. The bike has been set up like this for almost 2 years and has been running great until last week. Im thinking it may be ignition related but would appreciate any second opinions. Thank you!
  14. Hi, I jetted my bike today and decided to open up the cable area to lube it up. Not sure when exactly it happened but after I opened it up, sprayed some cleaner in there, then lubed it up the cable started sticking. The only other thing I did was put on the lock nut for the cable on the left side in this photo (it was completely off). Now the throttle just sticks open wherever I turn it too. It seems like it is not being pulled back into position not really like it is dirty and sticking because of dirt. It looks clean where I can see, it has been lubed everywhere, and I had no throttle issue before now. Any ideas? kx250f thanks!
  15. Hey all, so my bike is dying when i give it anything over 1/2 throttle. It is completely stock and I have pulled the carb and cleaned the 3 jets. Not very experienced with bikes so any help would be much appreciated. It was running rough when i pulled the carb now it idles perfect but bogs down under throttle. I have changed the plug and have tried running with no air filter. I also took the carb off again to make sure float wasn't stuck. Here is a clip of the bike https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6FW4yt2Oja3Wks5NDNGNXBiUjA
  16. Just serviced my 2015 YZ250F, noticed the oil looked thinner than normal, and on closer inspection found oil smelt of fuel. Being fuel injected how can this happen? Leaking injector? Anyone had the same problem?
  17. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  18. vince46

    New 2017 RMZ 450 issues

    Hey Guys, I finally updated my old 2012 rmz with a run out new 17. I managed 430 ish hours on the old girl with 3 rebuilds no real dramas. Problem is the new 17 is already giving me the shits that something is not right with it. The very first time I started it it smoked alot, I mean alot. Its my 5th brand new rmz and none have smoked like this. Then with the first oil change post run in there was alot of mater on both the oil filter and screen. Second oil change was after a xc race and trail ride both in the same weekend, 5 hours. That oil smelt like petrol. and it seemed noisy. Then this weekend I went to do the acerbis 4 hour, was going good too 3 hours in and the thing got real noisy I had to pull out sounds like its going to blow up. Thing is it goes like a cut cat. Anyone had issues from new?
  19. I had my CRF250r rebuilt back in may and it hasn’t been ridden since. I decided I might as well sell it so I wanted to make sure it was running and nothing. I drained the gas, put new gas in it, cleaned the carb, and still I can’t get it to kick start. It’ll bump start but it won’t idle, it’ll only stay running if I give it constant low rpm revs and if I go too high or too low it’ll stall out and die. I’ve done all that I can think to do so I’m coming here hoping I might be put on the right path of getting it fixed
  20. ktm_fastguy

    2017/2018 KTM 250/300 gas tank

    As I get my 2017 300xcw jetting sorted out I got my first estimate on fuel mileage. At a B pace in the woods I'm getting roughly 30 to 35 mpg. With the stock 2.5gal tank that should be good for about 75 miles. This is somewhat limiting in range. I am considering a IMS 3.2 gal (~95+ mile range) and Acerbis 3.0 gal (~90+ mile range) Who has put one of these tanks on their 2017 or 2018 smoker? How was fit and ergonomics?
  21. I was wondering if you can run 91 Octane fuel in a 2018 250/300 XC. I see in the manual it shows 98 or 95 octane and the oil mix changes with each. Is it safe to use 91 Octane ? If so what is the best oil mix to use ? And will it effect performance ?
  22. Just tightened my valve lash to spec after having terrible clacking noise when idling. It would start before when cold with no choke at all but would click and clack when idling. But now, with the correct valve adjustment, the engine does not want to start. It will backfire and damn near break my foot so I know that it is definitely getting fuel. What is the best way to adjust the carburetors on these bikes? I know there is the large screw on the right side to adjust both of the slides for idle speed, but where is the air-fuel mixture screw on the carbs? I suspect this is my issue now that the valve lash is adjusted correctly. Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Hi I recently bought a KTM 250sx 2005 and my bike leaks a lot of oil. I made a topic recently asking how to fix this and got amazing answers from everyone! And I asked this question on the other topic, yet to be answered, but I felt it was a different question wholly due to the paragraph it took to ask the question. And if it is answered there, this one can be deleted, but I wanted to know how do I tune the carburetor to run 50:1. It currently runs 32:1 and I believe the carb is tuned for that. I don't know jet specs but I will try to find out. I know you can adjust the jets via the air/fuel screw... I was told to turn it all the way lean and run the fuel, and I understand to adjust accordingly. But I just want to know what I must do to know if I should turn it richer or leaner based on what the bike does. What are the signs to tell to tune richer once I turn it all the way lean? And is there only one screw I must turn? or are there many? someone please explain all of this.
  24. Please help! I recently bought a Yz250f and have not been able to start it, it Has spark, but there are many issues with the carby which I wanna rule out before I leap into a rebuild, ( I want to avoid a rebuild if possible as I’m low on cash). The carby at the moment is a complete mess so the usual steps to fixing it might not work. So here’s the deal with the carb: - It’s leaking fuel from overflow ( really fast! ) and when I mean really fast, I mean it emptied my fuel tank in 2 mins. - It has a slow leak coming from somewhere under the float bowl - the air fuel screw is not adjusted correctly - I don’t know if the electrics work on it either - I don’t even know if it’s shooting fuel into the cylinder or not, as after kicking it a couple times and it’s not starting I remove the spark plug and it’s still dry. ( I tried putting fuel directly into cylinder from the spark plug hole but the bike still wouldn’t start) okay so I know it’s a lot but I’m not expecting anyone to answer every single question themselves. If each person could tackle whatever problem they know it would help heaps. Also just want to know what Order to fix things in as I can’t do air fuel until the bike is running and it won’t run unless I stop the leaking and get it to spray fuel into the cylinder. And buying a new carby is not an option ( I’ve got $40 to my name atm). Please help guys thanks.
  25. Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note:
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