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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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I was running the gas out of the carb on my cr125 and noticed no smoke was coming from it, is this normal. Is it a sign that the carb is empty? I’m a bit worried it ran for a little bit without any oil running through the engine.
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Carb only leaks fuel when bike is running out of the overflow tube inside the carb, which causes the fuel to leak out the bottom of the tube because that is where the tube leads to. The bike does not leak with the fuel on and the bike not running. this means the float is not the problem. Could it be the petcock? Drain screw shouldn't be the problem because if it was the fuel would leak all the time.
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Hi all, I have a 2004 honda crf250r and it wont start hot at all. The motor was just rebuilt with a new cylinder and piston. The valves were just adjusted. It will start cold in 1 or 2 kicks with choke but as soon as it gets hot it wont start. If you bump start it the motor will just turn over without starting. sometimes it will start. It runs great until you shut it off. im thinking its either a fuel issue or an electrical issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
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As I get my 2017 300xcw jetting sorted out I got my first estimate on fuel mileage. At a B pace in the woods I'm getting roughly 30 to 35 mpg. With the stock 2.5gal tank that should be good for about 75 miles. This is somewhat limiting in range. I am considering a IMS 3.2 gal (~95+ mile range) and Acerbis 3.0 gal (~90+ mile range) Who has put one of these tanks on their 2017 or 2018 smoker? How was fit and ergonomics?
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Not that many things on here regarding fuel and the Yz125 specifically. Locally, I can only get 91 octane ethanol gas, which is not what the manual calls for. It calls for 93 or higher......I have two other options each about 20 miles away....one is 93 octane ethanol gas from the pump, or go to sunoco and get 110 octane ethanol free......Any thoughts? Keep in mind, my engine is stock, and I don't plan to mod it out a whole lot in the near future. Any harm to running the 110 gas?
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Bike was sitting for a winter before I bought it from my mom. She was the second owner. Was leaking fuel from around petcock, replaced it. Bike now wont idle unless choke is on. It also won't say up to speed upon riding. Took full carb apart and cleaned it. My dad is saying simple float kit for the carb, he says the float is getting stuck and it's dying for fuel. Someone else (the car mechanic that I work with that has worked on his own bike) says it sounds like a accelerator pump. Opinions?
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Please help! I recently bought a Yz250f and have not been able to start it, it Has spark, but there are many issues with the carby which I wanna rule out before I leap into a rebuild, ( I want to avoid a rebuild if possible as I’m low on cash). The carby at the moment is a complete mess so the usual steps to fixing it might not work. So here’s the deal with the carb: - It’s leaking fuel from overflow ( really fast! ) and when I mean really fast, I mean it emptied my fuel tank in 2 mins. - It has a slow leak coming from somewhere under the float bowl - the air fuel screw is not adjusted correctly - I don’t know if the electrics work on it either - I don’t even know if it’s shooting fuel into the cylinder or not, as after kicking it a couple times and it’s not starting I remove the spark plug and it’s still dry. ( I tried putting fuel directly into cylinder from the spark plug hole but the bike still wouldn’t start) okay so I know it’s a lot but I’m not expecting anyone to answer every single question themselves. If each person could tackle whatever problem they know it would help heaps. Also just want to know what Order to fix things in as I can’t do air fuel until the bike is running and it won’t run unless I stop the leaking and get it to spray fuel into the cylinder. And buying a new carby is not an option ( I’ve got $40 to my name atm). Please help guys thanks.
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Hey all, i'm from Australia and i've been putting 98 Premium into my bike but its going off pretty quick and im only getting 120ishKM per tank and i was wondering if i put a different kind of fuel in my bike would i get more KM per tank? thanks
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Hi I recently bought a KTM 250sx 2005 and my bike leaks a lot of oil. I made a topic recently asking how to fix this and got amazing answers from everyone! And I asked this question on the other topic, yet to be answered, but I felt it was a different question wholly due to the paragraph it took to ask the question. And if it is answered there, this one can be deleted, but I wanted to know how do I tune the carburetor to run 50:1. It currently runs 32:1 and I believe the carb is tuned for that. I don't know jet specs but I will try to find out. I know you can adjust the jets via the air/fuel screw... I was told to turn it all the way lean and run the fuel, and I understand to adjust accordingly. But I just want to know what I must do to know if I should turn it richer or leaner based on what the bike does. What are the signs to tell to tune richer once I turn it all the way lean? And is there only one screw I must turn? or are there many? someone please explain all of this.
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I was wondering if you can run 91 Octane fuel in a 2018 250/300 XC. I see in the manual it shows 98 or 95 octane and the oil mix changes with each. Is it safe to use 91 Octane ? If so what is the best oil mix to use ? And will it effect performance ?
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Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note: -
Just tightened my valve lash to spec after having terrible clacking noise when idling. It would start before when cold with no choke at all but would click and clack when idling. But now, with the correct valve adjustment, the engine does not want to start. It will backfire and damn near break my foot so I know that it is definitely getting fuel. What is the best way to adjust the carburetors on these bikes? I know there is the large screw on the right side to adjust both of the slides for idle speed, but where is the air-fuel mixture screw on the carbs? I suspect this is my issue now that the valve lash is adjusted correctly. Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Ok so i know there aren't many snowmobile guys on here but its more so an motor based problem, and their are lots of motor experts on this. So i have a 1998 polaris 488 indy super sport. Its a 2 cylinder 2 stroke motor(air cooled), no power valve system and about as basic as it gets. I got the sled not-running for free and the compression was too low to start, i wanted to keep it cheap so i put new rings in it and now the compression is back to where it should be. After the rebuild it fired right up and the first time i took it through the yard it barely had enough power to make it around. I ended up thinning out the gas mixture with the needle and clip in both carburetors, and it decided to run very well. I took it up and down the yard a few times and it ran perfectly. I had it running perfect for about 45 minutes and then i parked it. i came back a week later, i was about 10 minutes into my ride when it started bogging and running like crap again. Its hard to describe how it runs but i will attach a video to demonstrate. It is very boggy at low rpm, very little throttle response. But if you let the rpms rise and get to powerband, it sounds like it should and has good throttle response. keep in mind this is in a neutral position. it will not idle without me applying little pressure to the throttle and even then it runs boggy. When you try and drive the sled here is what happens, first it bogs down until you hit medium rpm range, then it hit power band and speeds up for about 5 seconds, then if you keep holding the throttle it bogs down until it will eventually kill. It reaches close to max rpm and powerband is decent. If you don't get it started right away it eventually floods itself, it will also not run or start with the choke on. I've ridden many of these sleds with the identical motor so i have an idea of how they are supposed to run. I'm just looking for a head start of what might be wrong so i don't throw unnecessary parts on it. here are the things i have done with it since then: Cleaned the carbs, adjusted fuel/air screw, cleaned fuel pump, new rings/seals/oil lines and filters/ spark plugs are brand new and gapped Here is what i suspect is wrong: To much gas is getting to it, reason being is i can see gas actually shoot backwards out of the carbs sometimes, wont start with choke Let me know if you need more info or you have an idea, Thank you I can’t put the video on this apparently but if you want it I can dm it*
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Hello all, just picked up an 07 cr250r! I plan on keeping this bike nice, and only taking it out a few times since I still have the 450. What’s the best fuel for them CR’s? I’ve heard people talking about detonation from pump gas and that I need 110? Is this true? I’m no racer, just looking for the best for the bike. Thanks!
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I have a 2019 Kx100, completely stock. I am looking to put an Fmf fatty expansion chamber as well as an fmf shorty silencer. Stock from the factory, the Kx100s come slightly rich, which is true on my bike. Spark plugs are black, and I have fouled one already. I am waiting to put the pipe on to mess with jetting, but the real question is that if my bike is rich already, and I add a new chamber and silencer, would that possibly make the bike leaner, or would I still have to go down in jets or needle clip? If so, recommendations on what jets or needles I should change to? All jets are stock, with stock NAPF needle. Thanks -
Buckle in this is a long one. Any advice is appreciated! I have a 2011 RMZ 250 that has done me very well for 4 years. Has been a very reliable bike with lots of power. Last year it started to act up a bit, slightly less power & became more difficult to start, especially cold (side note: it’s a Suzuki so it’s never started great cold but usually 3 or 4th kick was the case). Still ran okay though & fiddled with the fuel screw a bit which seemed to help with the starting/power issue for the rest of the season. This past winter we pulled it apart, put a brand new piston in, checked the valve clearances, moderate amount of carbon build up on the valves which we cleaned off, and put in a new spark plug which is also in spec. Bike still wouldn’t start great cold but was starting on about the 8-10th kick and power seemed to be improved although not 100%. I’ve take it for quite a few rides now and broken the new piston in and am having more issues: -won’t kick over cold at all but bump starts just fine -will kick over first or 2nd kick when warm but NOT when the bike starts to get even slightly hot -very little top end power. Bottom of the gears seem to be full power and the hotter the bike gets the less power I have in the top end -bike began to backfire quiet a bit when hot -won’t idle in gear when hot Any advice on what to replace/trouble shoot next? I had a buddy tell me it could be a worn out injector so that’s what I’m looking at replacing next. Thanks!
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Was wondering if anybody knew a place I could get a petcock that has reserve for my 1998 Honda cr125 looking to do hare scrambles and want reserve for if I run out of gas on the trail somewhere
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So I picked up a 2016 DR-Z 400S last week. Only 4200 miles, and in good shape. My first DRZ and first dual sport, actually. I ride an R1250GS most of the time but I will ride the DRZ with my son on Saturdays, 90%+ in the dirt. The only visible mod is an FMF Powercore 4 muffler. The ladies I bought it from had only owned it a year and it had FMF on it when they bought it. They had no clue whether it had been re-jetted. First question: am I right that the white nob shown in the picture is an aftermarket fuel/air screw? If so, that's a pretty sure indicator somebody had the carb off and re-jetted it, right? Before you answer that and presume whoever did it knew what they were doing, check out the holes drilled in the air box and in the air box cover! I'm guessing that was somebody's attempt at a 3x3 mod! The oval on the top of the airbox is untouched. How concerned should I be about the hole in the air-box cover?! I'm thinking I need to find a plug that size!! One other question: the bike starts right up with the choke off, but not with it on. Doesn't want to take much throttle until warm. Any diagnoses? Thanks in advance! The Jed
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I recently have been trying to get into motocross and I am wondering what fuel to run. I just use marine gas on my bike now, but was wondering what would be the best for motocross.
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Carb has been cleaned, fuel is good. Plug is good, compression is good enough to run. Anybody got any ideas? YouTube link It won’t idle and won’t get over a certain rpm no matter the throttle
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Can anyone tell me if these are the same parts? Air fuel adjustment screw? In rebuilding carbs. The head on the old one was stripped and it was also impossible to remove work left hand drill and extractor. I end up having to drill all the way through the threaded section and then pick out remaining brass threads. The old piece is not tapered, line the new piece. Just I suspect it was over tightened by previous owner, and the taper was pushed through the carb body orifice. My jet kit instructions say to screw all the way in and screw out 3 turns. The new adjustment screw seems very loose that far out, like it'll just fall out from engine vibration if left at the setting. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
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Hi I'm thinking of buying a 2018 KTM EXC 500 six days to use as a long distance offroad tourer / enduro but I'm concerned about fuel range. the one I'm looking at currently has a 12L tank on it which from what I can tell will give 200-240kms but this is based on online info not sure if it's correct. I'm aiming at 400km range or more ideally The best options I've found so far are from rebelxsports.com 17L Tank - https://rebelxsports.com/product/17-lt-fuel-tank-ktm-exc-2017-transparent/ 5L Aux Tank - https://rebelxsports.com/product/ktm-exc-sxf-rear-5-liter-tank/ They also make a 14.5L Aux tank but it costs a lot of money €2,700 which I think is a bit much for what it is. Can't find any IMS or Acerbis that are larger than these. I would really like to be around the 30L mark with fuel capacity, anyone know of a good solution for this model? Also from what I can tell fuel consumption is approx 5L/100km does anyone have first hand experience? Thanks
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Scrolled through lots of pages. Don’t want to repeat a question. Log time xr400r owner and just picked up an 05 250x. Apparently is sat for a year and supposedly had a carb rebuild before I got it. Freed up a stuck open hot start and got it running pretty good. Wondering about Seafoam or other additives to help clean things out. I know the crf is a lot pickier than my old workhorse and don’t want to kill the thing. Thanks in advance
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The bike has a BBR 120cc top end kit and I cannot get it to run right on the pilot circuit. When the throttle is wide open (main jet territory) it revs out well and runs fine. First off: Throttle needle is set to stock adjustment, 38 pilot jet, 105 main jet. I’ve tried a 40 pilot but it was waaay to rich and at even a 1/2 turn out, it would want to die when I came to a complete stop and would heavily bog when the throttle was snapped. However, the 38 seems to be of the other extreme. At 1/2 to 2 turns out, it will have a hang idle( extremely lean? ) From 2 to 4 turns out, it will have the same low end bog experienced with a 40 pilot. I’ve done the fuel screw adjustment procedure, and from 2 turns out to 4 turns out the idle doesn’t change at all, AKA I have been unable to find the sweet spot. I currently have it set at 3 turns out with a 38 pilot jet, but it still wants to bog on me on the low end. I’m scratching my head, any ideas?
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