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Do you use fuel additives? I used AmsOil Motorcycle octane booster in my 4 strokes and I could definitely tell the difference especially on my carbureted bikes. I’m moving into the 2 stroke world and I was wondering if this holds true? Can I use the same product in my 2 stroke TPI bike? Does it improve idle and performance or are they just selling us a product? Is the product pictured safe to use in my TPI 2 stroke?
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There's been a lot of conversation on the different ways to put fuel into the engine, which is great, but it has become a little scattered across several topics. I thought I'd bring it all together, so it is easy to find info for everyone and the other topics don't get hijacked. I'm not innocent on that part, hence this topic. Also because I find this a very interesting topic, lots of physics going on. I'm not here to rally your support for a specific type, everyone has their own needs, mods and end goals, which all can be achieved in multiple ways. There are some very strong opinions on this subject, so post as much technical info as you have, to get as close as a comparison as possible. In the end it's always an educated guess with all the variables, but it might add something. My build is originally an '05 SM, but now a stuck-in-project-hell, 462cc big bore stroker with cams and an ACT box. When the engine got finished, life stabbed me in the back and took my money, so I had to put the whole thing on hold. It'll get a CVK40 for now, as I have one and just want to ride, but will get EFI in the end. I'll be using @roleyrev's proven concept, as I don't want to go through a bunch of R&D for now. I have an engine in parts that I want to do some experiments with down the line. My motivation for EFI is not max power, because the FCR does that very well. I'm not experienced in tuning carburetors, but have a lot of experience with computers and electronic hardware, making this a more logical choice in terms of tuning. The 02 sensor will tell me what is actually going on when and I can easily tune accordingly. Someone who is experienced with a carb can do this as well of course. As fun as max power is, this was my daily and will be again, so I need some level of fuel consumption that doesn't mean stopping at every gas station, also because it's close to €1,90/L ($10/gallon) for premium. Stock it would do close to 25km/L (58mpg), I'm at sea level, so it runs lean and I have 15/39 on it. I'm aiming for somewhere in that area, and hopefully will have decent power.
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So now that my TTR250 is running, I have a few other things to sort out. My killswitch(left) is broken, do I need a new one or can I just use the start/stop switch(right)? My carb is dumping gas out of the overflow. I rebuilt the carb yesterday, the needle valve and float are both good. What could it be? How easily should be gas cap vent? Blowing into the vent tube there is a lot of resistance. My front master cylinder looks pretty rough. Is there any easier to obtain alternative/upgrade part I can use? Can I remove the evap canister system?
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I have a 2022 CRF250RX. Its been ridden maybe 5-6 times. A couple hours per ride mostly fields or woods. The other day while on a trail i stalled, went to start the bike back up and nothing. After waiting roughly 30 min the bike fired up and idled just fine. I got back to my truck and killed the bike. It won't fire up since. This is what I've done/checked so far. First i detailed the bike New Plug (old plug wasn't bad, new plug is wet) Checked/tested fuel pump Took kill switch off (Make sure its not a faulty kill/mapping switch) still wouldn't fire Reattached the kill switch Checked injector Checked wiring harness for loose wire or short (Need to check again) Check for spark, which leads me to where i'm at now. While doing my testing i decided to ground the plug on the frame, with the plug ground to the frame, the plug with spark once then blank while the bike continues to crank. Every time i press the start button it does this, quick spark and nothing. I cannot figure out what the issue is at all. Any information or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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Hello everyone, first time on the thumper talk forums, and first bike, hope someone can help! So i'll explain this in detail. For reference, the bike has got a Keihin FCR MX 39 Carburetor. Thoroughly cleaned, checked every passage and jet, dissassembled the whole thing, gave it a bath. Petcock is cleaned as well. I've bought this (first) bike (110 hours) about 1 1/2 months ago and have been having trouble since I got it home. When buying it was running fine. But while looking for the choke I probably turned the idle speed adjusting screw and once I got it home I had trouble kicking it so I started playing more with the screw. Realising I wasn't getting anywhere I ended up deciding to buy an adjustable fuel mixture screw, as even with the smallest tools I couldn't get to the one already in there. Installed it, got the idle running alright but when blipping the throttle, it would just starve. Did some research and figured it was my accelerator pump that had to much play in it. Adjusted that, and now I can blip it without issues. Following this I thought I could finally ride it, but the bike's behaviour was still strange. Sometimes it had and has absolutely no issue and sometimes the bike ends up not getting fuel for a short while and picking up again or just ends up diying when opening the throttle. (Video links underneath). So I decided I'd clean the carb entirely. Issue persists. I shall describe, what's happening exactly: I open the throttle, bike accelerates and once I get past about half throttle, sometimes, not always, randomly I'd say, it just bogs and if I don't let the throttle go it dies. Sometimes same thing, but it bogs for a brief moment and picks up again. And sometimes it just works. One thing I haven't checked is the spark plug, but I don't see how that could explain my issue, especially because I didn't notice anything while test riding it. Another thing I noticed on the recordings I made, is that the rear light seems to be randomly flashing although I haven't got my lights on. Another mystery I guess. Any answers to this are welcome too. P.S. I can't find a manual for the Keihin FCR MX 39 anywhere, would be greatly appreciated if someone knows where I can find it. Thank you in advance for any help and answers, Nick Links: -Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1o_tWabQLroipedGMvxrAesi9xEcuYEe8?usp=sharing - Youtube: Idling: https://youtu.be/SEikgVuRRVM No issues 1: https://youtu.be/HWZEKqs9Bek No issues 2: https://youtu.be/99M3ulpSFyk No issues 3: https://youtu.be/frKyv5VWJmE Issues 1: https://youtu.be/dOfqxxSyPkY Issues 2: https://youtu.be/_f3-wd099NU
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Am I the only one without a fuel mixture “screw” on my carb? Bike rides rough, doesn’t idle well and backfires like it just ate the spiciest butter chicken. See pic of carb attached
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Hello, Out on my 2021 KTM 150 XC-W and the option to carry extra fuel came to mind. Any suggestions out there? Not interested in adding a bigger tank, looking for suggestions to carry some fuel. Thanks!
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I was running the gas out of the carb on my cr125 and noticed no smoke was coming from it, is this normal. Is it a sign that the carb is empty? I’m a bit worried it ran for a little bit without any oil running through the engine.
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- carberator
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Hey guys I just wants to come on here to ask a question about my bike I own a 2000 yz125 and it ran great everyday for about 3 minutes for 3 days because that’s how long I’ve had and it and I just let it run but then I went to warm it up one day and it was bogging down I would rev it it would hesitate then rev up anyone’s input would be much appreciated.
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Hi I recently bought a really really clean 2011 kx250f that was completely rebuilt by a mechanic. I took her to the track and it ran absolutely perfect and sounds awesome, but we had the common oil leak problem from the sparkplug weep hole on the right side of the cylinder so we took off the valve cover and put sealant on the top o ring right below the valve cover (the only thing we did) and we think it fixed the oil leak problem without having to take off the cam caps to get to the second o ring, but after reassembling and putting the gas tank back on we started it up and it ran horribly almost sounds like a misfire and is blowing white smoke out the exhaust, which is neither coolant or oil being burned for sure, so it has to be fuel? Also my timing is perfect we never did anything more than taking the valve cover off and now its running so off and wont idle, you have to play with the throttle to keep it running. I'm so stumped any ideas? Fuel injector problem? Spark problem?(I never did end up changing the sparkplug, and oil did leak into the sparkplug chamber cause the leak) Also here is a video of how its running with sound. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I take this thing to a shop.... TLDR: Bike ran amazing, Wanted to fix easy oil leak, took off fuel tank completely, took off valve cover and nothing else, added sealant to o ring right below valve cover to prevent oil leak from weep hole, reassembled fully, doesn't run right, misfire? didn't change/mess with anything to cause a problem like this but here we are.
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Can someone please explain just how the "Starter Plunger" operates ? This is a 2012 year bike. Bike is new to me and has sat for years. After an extensive carb clean the bike will run but dies when the choke or "enricher" is released. I would also like to know just when the carb heater comes into play. I may be wrong in thinking this is a cold climate requirement.
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Hey i just put in a Jd jet kit and used the blue needle in the middle position with the 25 and 155 jets. I just need to adjust the fuel air mixture with the screw. I just don't know how to reach it and was wondering what people use to manipulate it. I obv. don't want to have to pull the whole carb out if I can help it. Thanks. Edit: The bike is a 2008 drz400sm with a stock carb that I just rejected. The bike start but the throttle is sticking. As in I can turn the throttle and let it go, and it will stay there. I still need to adjust the fuel screw but don't want to take the carb out. Is there a tool that can reach up and adjust the fuel screw at a 90 degree angle?
- 2 replies
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- Jdjetkithelp
- drz400
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TL;DR at the end 1987 Kawasaki KLR 250 (9.3k miles showing) Symptoms: Cruising during a ride, the engine speed dropped instantly and without warning as if someone cut the throttle cable. It was able to start right back up after coming to a stop, but would die if any throttle was applied. Observations: Will start again consistently, but will not rev up. Any movement of the throttle's butterfly valve kills the engine. Modulating the choke with the throttle closed will increase engine speed from ~900 RPM - 2100 RPM. Idle is smooth and consistent. No knocking, pinging, or overheating issues have been noted. Analysis: Fuel Carburetor cleaned with liquid injector cleaner and sprayed out with aerosol carb cleaner. Serviceable jets (main and pilot) replaced. Diaphragm slide moves freely (with spring return) in its slot. Movement during normal operation is unconfirmed. Fuel-to-air ratio adjusted, but it has been noted to start easily at all ranges of available adjustment. Fresh fuel and fuel filter installed. Fuel lines are open and the carburetor's float is operational. Confirmed by opening the drain on the float bowl. Spraying starter fluid into the air-box will increase engine speed slightly (+1k-1.5k RPM), but only after the butterfly valve has been opened. The amplitude of the opening does not seem to matter. No backfiring has been heard except after liberal amounts of starter fluid have been put in the air-box. Air Subjectively, it sounds like air is being pulled into the air-box side of the carburetor when kicking the engine over. Spraying starter fluid near the junction of the engine and carburetor does not affect engine speed. The air-box is open and clear. The air filter is clear and clean. No excess of oil was noted. Compression Testing with the automatic compression release engaged reached 60 psi (with flickers on the analog gauge up to near 80 psi). Service range is 60 - 114 psi. Testing with the automatic compression release disabled reached 120 psi. No leaks were audible anywhere during either test. No blue smoke or blow-by is noted in the idle range noted above. Spark The spark plug grounded outside the engine during compression testing consistently made sparks. Resistance of primary and secondary coils of the ignition cord were checked. The secondary was 5kOhm above the service limit of 9kOhm, and the assembly was replaced. Resistance values between pins on the CDI box were checked with an analog multimeter, and the source coil negative pin appeared disconnected (>100MOhm), so a new CDI box was swapped in. The new box had ~40kOhm resistance on the same pin, well above the recommended range, but was at least measurable. Resistance of the trigger/exciter circuit was measured and found to be perfectly within the acceptable range. The gap between the magneto and pickup point was also within tolerance. No deformities, lost magnets, or any other such physical abnormalities were noted on the magneto or stator. All wire connections are continuous and have not been found to be shorted to ground. Timing Timing of the cam lobes was confirmed in relation to the camshaft. All joints are sufficiently torqued, lubricated, and not worn beyond service limits. Valves Diameter service limits of valves and valve stems have not been checked due to results of compression tests. Intake springs were removed for inspection. No physical abnormalities noted. One set felt like it was weaker than the other while in the machine, but it felt just the same as the other as soon as it was out. Nothing about the seat in either spring's location seemed different than the other. General Kick-starting does not feel restricted or as if the engine is binding at any point. All other electronic components operate as expected. Very little vibration is noted while the engine idles. Temperature of the coolant system rises within an acceptable amount of time (~4 minutes while held between 1500-2000 RPM). TL;DR I can get the bike to start just fine, but it will die as soon as the throttle is opened even a little bit. Moving the choke will increase engine speed. The carb has had a rebuild and a good clean, the spark is good, compression is fine, and air is no problem. Valve springs and timing have also been checked. Where should I look or recheck next?
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I recently rebuilt the top end of my bike and got it buttoned back up. We are sure timing and valve clearance are correct, the bike seems to have a fuel issue. When it kicks over (usually 5-10 kicks) it runs for a split second and dies. When I keep on the throttle it runs well, but dies any time I let off. Really stumped here, can't find the harnesses for the FI check light, not sure what our problem is. Though it seems like it's not getting enough fuel, it smells very rich. Any help is appreciated.
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Hey guys so I have a 97 kx 100 that I bought used and since I’ve had it the most I can ride on it is 5 miles before it runs out of gas. I’ve had several people look at it and have rebuilt the carburetor , put new Jets in it , messed with the sizes and settings as well as followed what’s in the service manual for recommended settings etc and Its still a mystery & at ill runs out of gas quickly. It doesn’t idle AT ALL and the clutch isn’t very responsive other than that it runs GREAT I just really wish I could get to the root of the issue. I’m new to the mechanics of dirtbikjng so if I sound uninformed or some of these things aren’t related that’s why but I’m very eager to learn and understand so anything helps. Thanks in advance
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Was wondering if anybody knew a place I could get a petcock that has reserve for my 1998 Honda cr125 looking to do hare scrambles and want reserve for if I run out of gas on the trail somewhere
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Hey Guys/Gals, Newbie here and currently have a bike project that I'm working on to keep me busy during the "lockdown". Anyhow, just wanted to know what ya'll done with the stock vacuum tube that comes from the Mikuni carb to the factory stock gas petcock after installing an upgraded Acerbis fuel tank that comes with its own petcock mechanism that has no vacuum tube insert port on it. I understand the vacuum is used for allowing fuel to flow from tank to carb. On the other hand, the Acerbis uses gravity it seems. What I would like to know if this vacuum port is crucial to the carb's performance/functionality or can it just be left d/c with the new fuel tank in place? Thanks in advance! Cheers!
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My 2015 XT 250 (Fuel Injected) bike had sat for the past 2 years (with ethanol fuel in the tank). Battery was dead. Replaced battery, turned over and started once, would idle at low rpm but raising the throttle would start to die, then it died after giving too much throttle. Now it turns over, but won't start. Any advice on where to start? Here is what I've done so far: - Replaced Battery, - Replaced Plugs, - Drained Tank replaced with 93 Octane, - Check Fuses (all are fine), - Ran Diagnostic Mode D36 for Fuel Pump, Hearing the 5 clicks as it cycles the FI on. - Fuel Pump runs fine. I've never removed the fuel injector before, but is that my next step? Thanks in advance! Jake
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2017 KTM 450 EXC-F Six Days Cold Start Fix/Mods
TrippleD posted a topic in 250-530 EXC-F/XCF-W/XCR-W
Looking for some input from those who have had all the same issues with cold start problems. Bought my bike new in may of 17, only mods are FMP muffler and i run a Reklus. I am now learning that the bike is probably running leaner than it should be. I just turned 56, my racing days are behind me. I am interested in only making modifications to this bike to make it start and run more reliable for years to come. I have been reading up on TT and other sites to figure out what to do. To start, i have ordered a pigtail from TPSTool. My question to the experts out there, what are the mods you would suggest without going crazy to make this bike start and be reliable? I also run a snow track 1 or 2 times a year. Any suggestions would be great! -
I was thinking about running VP race gas in my stock 2019 125sx. Currently I just run regular 91 non-ethanol pump gas at 60:1 ratio. It runs fine but I'd like to try higher octane race gas like 110 VP. Is it worth anything besides the great smell? Will it run any better or faster? Since it is technically a race bike from factory does that mean higher octane will make for better performance? I'm not too concerned about the price just performance really.
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Looking at longer rides where 2.5 won't reach to the next gas station. I've got the stock tank on my 2004 and don't want to switch out with an Acerbis 3.2 because I want to be able to keep the bike light for shorter rides, so I'm looking at external options like the rotopax, maybe a 2 gallon-er? Are the 2 gallons too big, or are there other options I don't know about? Thanks in advance.
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Hi. I am looking for a replacement fuel tank for my son's XR100R Honda bike. Its a 1997 and the tank has been discontinued. I am looking for a used one or one sitting on a shelf somewhere. Any ideas where to look. I am in Canada but can ship from anywhere if necessary. Thanks
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I recently have been trying to get into motocross and I am wondering what fuel to run. I just use marine gas on my bike now, but was wondering what would be the best for motocross.
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Hey guys - sorting out my XR400R before hitting Pikes Peak, Telluride, etc. I did double check the jets and needle clip setting but also wanted to double check about octane. I am from NH and always used 91 octane gas in my toys. I also know that sometimes too high of octane can hurt some like older small engines. Just verifying that it’s ok to run 91 in my XR400R at those higher elevations??? Seemed fine at 9-10k feet. Thanks in advance !!!