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  1. I have a Polaris sportsman 570 electronic power steering and fuel injected. I’ve gone through two batteries in two years on this thing, I pulled the battery last fall and had it on a tender in a heated garage until it got warm out. It was perfectly fine at first, then after a few times up and down the street it started dying out. I shut it off, and when I went to start it, it didn’t have enough power to turn it over. I put it on the charger for about 10 minutes and now the led screen won’t even show numbers or anything. This thing has 119 hours on it and I don't think it’s the battery, I domt know much about efi and electronics. Does this sound like a connection issue? Maybe I need to get a Honda instead lol
  2. I am having backfire or flame out problems with my fuel injected 2012 KTM 350sxf. I tuned my TPS sensor to as close as the recommended adjustment but I am still having issues. Anybody else have experience with this problem?
  3. Hello everyone. So this is a bike I bought recently, it’s a 2011 KX250F, first of their fuel injected models, it is single port injection. Everything about the bike is fine, start easy, runs amazing, plenty of compression, recently reshimmed valves and fully serviced. But there is one issue with the bike when you’re on it hard, it seems to have a limiting problem. I’ve taken a video and uploaded it onto YouTube, the link is here; In order of sequence, the first rev on limiter is neutral about 4/5ths on the throttle and it limits the way it should. The second is full throttle in neutral, it kind of hesitates and splutters. The third is in gear which clutch pulled in full throttle, limits too slowly, almost like it’s starved of fuel. The 4th is in gear, clutch out, full throttle, limits sporadically, again, like it’s starved of fuel or misfiring. The bike doesn’t seem to limit properly in gear with 4/5ths throttle like it does in neutral either. anyone have any ideas on what this could be?? It has me stumped. Cheers!!!
  4. I'm getting down to the end of working on a nearly bolt on EFI conversion for my xr650l (and maybe yours too!) Our bikes only came with crank sensors so have provisions for mounting them, nbd. Cam sensors on the other hand... I believe I can use what appears to be a very convient casting in the valve cover that with a little milling should accomadate a standard sensor. It lines up almost perfectly with the camshaft. I've already found that there is some variance in how Honda cast these bosses, ie: with or without holes in them. Doesn't matter though, just a few more chips left on the table after the machine work. So what I could use are few quick measurements to make sure this works. Need inner and outer diameter of the two bosses(red and blue) as well as the center to center distance of the two.
  5. Hello. So I just completely rebuilt my 2013 kx450 and the bike started up no problem and I broke it in. Then I brought it up state last weekend the bike started and ran amazing then I blew the water pump seal so I just let it sit and I had no place to put it in doors so it sat outside in the rain and brought the bike home in the rain which is like a 2 an half hour drive, washed the bike off and now it was hard to start and backfiring but I got he going after 20 kicks. So the next day I relaxed water pump seal and checked timing and dots were not parallel with the head so I put them parallel and went to start it and got nothing kicked probably 30 times and still nothing so I put the choke on and have just a little gas and it started but didn’t idle and died so I went to start it again and got nothing. I have absolutely no idea what could be wrong any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Hello everyone. I got a 2013 kx450 that is sputtering, poping and bogging down when I go up jumps or go over bumps. I just very recently put in new valves new piston and cylinder and a new counter balance shaft. If anyone has any information it will be greatly appreciated.
  7. My xcf has a little filter in the fuel line. My carbed crf didnt have this. How important is this little thing? Can it be removed? Should i really replace it every 5hrs? They are like 7 bucks a pop for the oem and i havent seen any after market replacements. Sent from my Z956 using ThumperTalk mobile app
  8. Hi all, My name is Ben, I'm a long time lurker first time poster. First and foremost I would like to thank everyone that has documented their FI conversions and fork swaps. More specifically thank you msiddalingaiah and mxrob for the information and guidance over that last few weeks. Over the years I have owned a few bikes 1985 DR250, 1995 DR250se, '92 KX250, '06 CRF450, and a pumped up 92 FXRS. All of the bike are gone now with the exception of my 1985 DR250, 1995 DR250se, and a recently purchased '98 DR350. At the start of Covid I decided to restore the '95 DR250se. For lack of a better term its since turned into a restomod. First picture is myself with the bike in Rocky Point, MX (2006) The second is the bike in the spring of 2020 (after sitting under my dads Arizona pole barn since 2007) Third, currently as it sits, front and rear rebuilt suspension race tech valving, RM Showa 47mm twin chamber fork swap with heavier springs... And many other rebuilt or updated parts. Here is a link to another forum where I did a semi detailed write up on the fork swap https://forum.nanoefi.com/t/beta-dr350se-with-dr250se-cdi/363/5 Fourth and fifth 250 and 350 next to each other. I would like to build a bike that runs and rides well here in the rockies, down in moab, and extended trips on back country discovery routes. With the ultimate goal of riding the whole pan american highway. Here are my objectives for the build: DR350 topend, crank, balancer, kick starter, ect in the DR250se case 440 kit with a oil cooler and fan (if I can fit the fan) Use DR250se CDI Get a lighter battery than the brick thats in there Use the DR350 rear shock since it has the extra damper (put a RT valve in it). Better skid plate think Ill go with the Australian one from procycle JNS DOT led head light (already on its way) Fuel inject the bike using name brand parts so I can get replacement parts easier. Use MicroSquirt and tunerstudio. I've saved a number of pictures pertaining to the FI conversion. Since theres quite a few I'll be adding them in the next post. Cheers, Ben
  9. Looking for some help and advice.. Rode my yz450f -15 last weekend and in the middle of the training session it started acting weird. I stopped at the side of the track and the bike was bogging and cutting out, ran fine on idle but as soon as i gave it any throttle it "suffecated" had big flames shooting from the exhaust at decel. I thought it may be vacuum in the tank but removing the gas cap didnt help. Couple of days later i started the bike up again at home and i ran fine, rode a short ride up and down the street and everything seemed ok. The other day at the track it was acting up again right from the start, soo i called it a day and went home. Started the bike up again when i came home and i ran good..what da f#ck is going on. I started to check for damage cables and connectors but everything looks fine, i also measure the resistance on the TPS. I later read in the manual that the TPS must be calibrated with the yamaha FI diagnostic tool, damn it! Also changed the spark plug. I read some threads about guys having problem with the TPS and yamaha even changed the parts nr on the tps soo there must have been a known issue with it. After i got the tps back on the bike it ran even worse, ran on idle for like 5 sec them died. Changed the tps 1mm, and tried again. Bike ran better but still not perfect. I emptied the gas tank and checked if there is a filter in the fuel pump, couldent find any filter, but i later found a thread describing how to disassemble the pump and clean the filter. Actually got some sand and dirt in the fuel from my gas tank but it wasnt a lot. Next week im gonna hook up a power tuner to look for codes. I feel pretty sure it either the fuel pump or the tps or maybe the injector. Next time in the garage im going to try the following: - Clean injectors - power tuner, codes? - clean fuel filter in the fuel pump - disconnect tps and see how the bike runs Its obviously running lean and not getting the correct amount of fuel at throttle opening, I dont really have much experience with these FI bikes. Dont have access to the FI diagnostic tool so at some point my dealer have to set up the tps for me. Seems very strange to me that the bike works one day and the next is acting weird, am i missing something? Would really appreciate some help!
  10. My 11 TE 250 has a bog just off idle...kind of a slow throttle snap until the rpm's pick up. Any suggestions where to start/look?
  11. I recently bought a 2020 fuel injected CRF 110 for my son. After a week the thing would not idle after it warmed up. The idle screw seemed to have no effect. I searched all over the internet and couldn't find any info. Finally called the dealer. There is a known issue and it's easy to fix so I thought I would pass it along. There is a 2" black tube at the base of the throttle body that gets pinched because the tube is a little too long for the 90 degree turn. I removed the tube, cut off an 1/8" and reinstalled with the kink facing out. Runs like a champ now. Note: The picture was taken after I fixed it.
  12. Hey, I recently bought my friends 2011 KX250F (efi) because it won’t rev up past around 1/2 throttle without bogging while its under load, he couldn’t figure it out, even a small engine mechanic couldn’t figure it out. I’m just wondering if someone else has had this problem with the same bikes and what the problem was. Thanks!
  13. Hey Guys I thought I would share the placement of my WISECO Fuel Commander. Please subscribe to my channel, share or like it. This video shows the steps needed to install the WISECO Fuel Commander Controller for the Fuel Injection system on my WR250R. This install can be difficult if you don't know what you are doing. But hopefully the video helps you figure out the steps needed to install this thing. If your not comfortable have a Mechanic install for you. I definitely felt a snappier feel along with my No Toil Air Filter Mod. I bought this in hopes to have the capabilities to properly fuel my bike during stock and new exhaust mods. Well When I get it anyhow. SO if you liked the video please check out all my current and future videos on my channel. Cheers.
  14. Hello everyone. I looked around and I couldn’t find anyone that had my problem so I was hoping someone here could help me out. I recently bought a 2017 wr 450 with higher hours but it was well setup with a timbersled kit, Heated bars, thermobob, handguards. Stuff like that. I test rode it with the timbersled kit and it ran great at the 8500’ elevation. Now that I’ve had it around the yard, and in the lower elevation mountains where we live I’ve noticed a serious bog when matching throttle on deceleration, and at low-mid throttle when revving in neutral. But the bike will rev through it if you open the throttle more. There is also a fair amount of soot on the exhaust. Bike has uncorked oem exhaust, K and n filter, Fresh plug. The next step I’m at would be to get the tuner and comp ecu, as well as putting a regular air filter system. Any help will be greatly appreciated
  15. I have a 2012 YZ450 and i did a much needed deep cleaning with a pressure washer and it started fine and ran i put it in the garage and started to polish it for pictures and cleaned and oiled the air filter and let it sit over night like usual and then the next morning i changed the oil and rode it up and down my alley way to warm it up and get it circulated and as i came back to my garage to talk to my neighbor i shut it off while i was moving with the clutch in and as it shut off i heard a odd noise and didn't think too much about it at the time and when i went to start it again,i had found out that my kick starter was not going past half way and the top half had no compression and i tried putting it in gear and moving it but all i got was some metallic noises from the inside of the cylinder and so i put it back in my garage and took the clutch and clutch basket out and there didn't seem to be anything wrong on that side so i took the magneto cover off and removed my flywheel and made sure the key was there and nothing was abnormal i put the flywheel back on and was torquing it down and i had the rear wheel locked up and it would still spin and the flywheel would turn with force and the timing chain would move a link and make a crack/ metallic noise,not sure what is was but i got the flywheel torqued and somehow the crank and everything was moving and i could kick it normally but still not even trying to start. i proceed to take the plug out and made sure it got spark and it did, the plug was a little darker black then normal and it was bone dry so i put it back in and tried to start it,still no luck..So i have come to you guys in need of some help or advice.Any help is much appreciated -TE
  16. Revolutionary New TE 250i & TE300i Machines set to Change Perceptions about 2-Stroke Enduro Bikes April 4, 2017 - (Motor Sports Newswire) - Husqvarna Motorcycles proudly announce the introduction of their next generation fuel-injected 2-stroke enduro motorcycles. Perfectly embodying the brand’s pioneering spirit, the new from the ground up 2018 TE 250i and TE 300i machines will feature engine technology that is set to revolutionise the field of 2-stroke enduro motorcycles. Enjoying over a century of uninterrupted design, development and production, Husqvarna Motorcycles are now set to add another benchmark to their impressive timeline of innovations. Being one of the oldest motorcycle manufacturers, and the first company to ever produce a purpose-built offroad bike, Husqvarna Motorcycles have always been a great advocate of 2-stroke technology. From Rolf Tibblin’s first Motocross European Championship in 1959 to the golden age of motocross during the 60s and the 70s, Husqvarna has remained a dominant force in the segment of high-performance 2-stroke offroad motorcycles. With their new generation of fuel-injected 2-strokes arriving soon, Husqvarna Motorcycles will proudly start a new chapter in their history of pioneering innovation and forward-thinking development. This revolutionary new technology will go into production in June. Additional information about Husqvarna’s MY18 2-stroke enduro models will be released on May 30, 2017. http://www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com/ca/news/2-stroke-enduro/ *** Husqvarna Motorcycles. Tradition on two wheels since 1903. Husqvarna Motorcycles are widely known and respected in the off-road world for a heritage of competition and numerous motocross and enduro world championships. Originally founded in Sweden in 1903, Husqvarna Motorcycles have been designed and manufactured in Mattighofen, Austria since 2013. Source: Husqvarna Motorcycles GmbH
  17. 2017 RMX450 with 2160 miles on it. Riding mainly single track in Arizona. Last time I took her out no issues at all on some crazy Jarvis type stuff with some river crossings. At home decided to grease my linkage bearings, clean air filter and change plugs as the service manual suggested. Completed said services and upon firing the bike up it is running like crap. Missing, stalling, popping and bogging. Hard to get running under a load, me on the bike trying to go anywhere. Full throttle she runs well but mid range and just above idle its terrible. So far I have done the following all per OEM service manual. Another note, Best friend and fellow rider has same bike and same year so I am able to swap parts to see if anything changes, nothing does. Bike has JD FI tuner. Stock snorkel, throttle stop and exhaust baffle have been removed. I have played with TPS adjustment a few times and current setting is .64V. All TPS and wiring associated is in tact and good condition. Bike has a street legal kit with brake light and TS. All that is in working order with no exposed wiring. Other than these changes bike is stock basically. Replaced rear fender do to a wreck the bent it in half, nothing serious just looped it on a big hillclimb. Checked resistance in coil, found to be in spec per manual. Friend tested his coil and found to be identical readings Replaced spark plug cap and spark plug for shits and giggles Tested TPS good voltage and resistance Tested continuity at Stator, no OL ECT sensor checked out Replaced fuel pump strainer filter and swapped tanks with friend, no change IAT sensor good IAP sensor good Swapped ECM with friend, no change Kill button checked Checked all fuses, nothing blown Battery fully charged and holding 12.74V Continuity checked from all sensors back to ECM plug. At this point I am going to clean injector, throttle body and airbox. I also will check valve shims again, last time I checked clearance they were in spec shortly after I purchased the bike with 67 miles on it(dealer demo bike). Other then that I am at a loss. What else can I do and has anyone had a similar issue?
  18. Anyone running a Vortex ignition on a YZ250F 2014-2018, or 450 for that matter? What advantages does it have over tuning FI/IG with the GYTR power tuner, and are there maps readily available for stock or mod and race fuel? I've messed around with the GYTR tuner on one of my bikes- 2017 YZ250F with bolt ons and VP racing fuel, but there is a lack of maps to run and I've heard there is more power to be had with the Vortex Ignition. I'm aware there are other less costly avenues to add horsepower.
  19. Het guys, I've got a 2012 kx250f that keeps fuel cutting in high rpms. I'm pretty sure whenever the second fuel injector activates, but not certain. I've also noticed the bike is backfiring and has some throttle response loss and power loss. Bike is also fine when its in neutral (I hit rev limiter for a sec, no fuel cutting), only when its in gear. I have no idea whats wrong with this thing, please help
  20. Hey I got a 2017 Honda Crf150r that I purchases a few weeks ago. I paid 2900 for it. I rode it around and it rode great. Since then I've ridden it around a lot and its super fun. I realized that once its warmed up that it has a hanging idle and I'm not sure what to do because I want to sell it and would like to fix that problem. I would normally know how to fix this problem on a carbureted bike but fuel injection is new territory for me so I fell pretty lost. If someone would let me know what to do I would really appreciate it. Thank you!!!
  21. Hi all, After some consideration about DRZ400SM carb choices (Pumper vs CV) I decided to that I would like to give fuel injection a go. This has been a project that I have had in mind for a few years thinking that I would be a great way to get the best out of a bike. At the time of inception I didn’t know that it was going to be a DRZ400SM. I did know that I was going to uses a Microsquirt to do the injecting. I have done a couple or car FI conversions – a 77 V12 Daimler Double SIX and a Mitsubishi RVR (4AG63) – Both started out life as FI vehicles making them easy to convert to aftermarket – tuneable ECU’s. Both running MegaSquirt 2’s with outstanding results. Moving along – when I brought the bike I was a little underwhelmed with the performance off the showroom floor. I got a Yoshimura rs2 for a good price 2nd hand – cleaned it up and rejected the SM’s standard CV carb did the 3x3 mod and that was much better. Then I had a ride on an E – pumper carb -super snappy, so I started to have a look around for one to put on the bike. I was a bit overwhelmed with the price of said carbs new. I got to thinking about fuel injection and how good that would be, as well as fully programable ignition and the room for mechanical mods further down the track. It was an idea I couldn’t leave alone. So here we are – the bike is just back together and operational. It is still in need of some tuning but preliminary results are it is a success. It is much more “Stompy” than the CV carb’ed version and at the onset looks to be more fuel efficient. The throttle body come from an injected LTZ400 which is a very close relation in terms of motor to the DRZ. It is made by Keihin and 38mm. It has the same external diameter of the Keihin MX39 carb that it commonly fitted so the boot you buy for that carb conversion also works for the Throttle Body conversion. I made a bell mouth adaptor for the air box side to fit the standard SM air box boot. The throttle body has an integrated MAP and TPS sensors now used by the Microsquirt. Careful bench testing of the sensors enabled a calibration table to be made for each to enable the Microsquirt to read the sensors accurately. I’m not sure of the purpose but the LTZ had an axillary air plunger on a cable system (hot start / cold start?). I found Keihin spares had a choke plunger that fitted with no cable involved – so I now have an auxiliary air knob for fast idle situations. I also brought the LTZ flywheel with the view of fitting it to gain the required triggering for the ECU. The flywheel is subtlety different in too many ways to fit the DRZ, for one it is 1.5mm larger in diameter and has about 200grams more mass and the stator for the injected LTZ is also of bigger diameter. I liked the 18-1 tooth triggering arrangement though. So I had the existing flywheel modified, taken down by a couple of mm - removing the standard trigger teeth for the CDI unit and a ring made with the 18 – 1 triggers machined into it, and had that slipped on. I had considered the LTZ fuel system as they have an out of tank pump, but after a good look I decided that there was no room for the swirl tank / pump combo. Other considerations were the extra plumbing required for fuel, low pressure fuel, return fuel and high pressure fuel also the pressure regulator and fittings. I had a good hunt around and found a fuel pump with integrated regulator, this also helps keep the plumbing to a minimum as the fuel connections to the regulator are integrated in the pump. I designed printed some mounts to hang it in the space where the carb float bowel would normally be. There were a few minor hiccups along the way – the high pressure fuel barb aimed directly at the frame spar, this was rotated on its O-ring with the use of a bracket to become parallel to the frame. The cover for the throttle body interfered with the oil breather box. I split the oil box in two and designed and printed a new side with a scallop in to clear the throttle cover. I’m a firm believer in the right tools for the job too so I have fitted an innovate wideband O2 meter, while the end game is not to use the O2 for day to day use (i.e. have the bike tuned well) I need such a device to complete the initial tuning. The control box for the O2 sits in on the frame just forward of the tank rubber, in the place that the CDI coil used to sit, the O2 Probe can be seen on the side of the exhaust. The control box is connected directly to the ECU to provide feedback on mixture richness ETC. The CDI coil has been replaced with a Nissan S15 Coil on cap item. This has an integrated igniter that can be triggered directly from the Microsquirt. It needed a small amount of modification to fit, I had to cut about 10mm from the bottom of the plug cap so the conductor would reach the bikes spark plug. I also printed a spacer / dust cap for the top to make the system as waterproof as possible. The electrical system I tried to keep simple. One extra relay for fuel pump, injector and spark power and two fuses, one for fuel pump / injector and one for spark. The relay is mounted between the shock body and the back of the air box, the fuses are above it. I selected waterproof items where possible as I do have an 18/21inch wheel combo for off road / adventure riding. Cheers John
  22. Ok fella's here's the story. Bought a 2018 250 XCW TPI in December of 2017 had for 2 weeks and had 3 hours on it, took it back to the dealer with a hard start, no start problem. They had it for a week and couldn't find any problems, even though I had video of the problem. Then they charged me $150 because they couldn't find anything wrong with it. So KTM warranty ain't worth a crap. This problem is now intermittent and getting more frequent. The bike has now produced a new problem. (25 hours) The bike now never gets on the pipe/power band and feels as to be loading up, never cleans out. Called KTM again and all they say is take it to the dealer, yeah right! LOL Over the past two nights I've completely torn the bike apart, EVERYTHING! (just shy of splitting the cases) I have checked and confirmed every sensor, plug, wire, spark plug,connector, timing, crankshaft key, reeds, Air filter, powervalve, fuel pressure, ground, power, battery, piston, rings, filter, injectors, fuel, oil pump, etc..... Has anyone had any of these problems with their TPI? If there is anyone from KTM on here please contact me.
  23. My 2008TE 450 sat for a couple months and now it just cranks and wont fire up. The injector is getting fuel, it has compression and the spark plugs are getting spark. And yes i checked the kill switch I need help badly. I don't know what else to do. If anyone could help it would be much appreciated. I've looked everywhere for a solution and cant find one.
  24. Ok I need some help here I have a 2013 kx450 which I just recently rebuilt top and bottom. When I first started it up it took a few kicks but nothing to be concerned about. Now the problem is getting worse the bike is extremely hard to start hot and cold and doesn’t like to idle when cold, it also sputters at 1/4 throttle. So today I just set the tps voltage to .60 thinking that was the problem but no luck with starting. So I pulled the choke knob and kicked it a few times and got nothing then I pushed the choke knob in and kicked if a few more times and it started then died and wouldn’t start up again. I was also thinking it could possibly be a bad coolant temperature sensor but I do not know. Iam just at a loss of words any help would be greatly appreciated.
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