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Interests

  1. I was running the gas out of the carb on my cr125 and noticed no smoke was coming from it, is this normal. Is it a sign that the carb is empty? I’m a bit worried it ran for a little bit without any oil running through the engine.
  2. I can't get my gas cap to come off! When trying to spin it off, it just kinda clicks like it isn't grasping or something. Not a fan of this new seemingly unnecessary gas cap design.
  3. As I get my 2017 300xcw jetting sorted out I got my first estimate on fuel mileage. At a B pace in the woods I'm getting roughly 30 to 35 mpg. With the stock 2.5gal tank that should be good for about 75 miles. This is somewhat limiting in range. I am considering a IMS 3.2 gal (~95+ mile range) and Acerbis 3.0 gal (~90+ mile range) Who has put one of these tanks on their 2017 or 2018 smoker? How was fit and ergonomics?
  4. Considering buying the IMS 4.0 or the Clarke 4.7 fuel tanks for my XR. My stock tank can't go far at all. Anyone care to share their fuel range with whatever tank they're running? I've heard 220 miles with the 4.7 which seems a bit optimistic considering I get 60-70 miles with my stock tank. My biggest concern is whether the tank will impede my movement on tight technical trails. I've also heard horrible stories of Clarke's customer support. Alternatively, I've considered buying a few 32oz fuel canisters and packing them on the back of the bike. But I'd hate to lose the storage space if aftermarket tanks won't impede my movement. If anyone has a used tank for sale I'm likely interested.
  5. I’m struggling to grip with my knees on my dirtbike. Either my jeans or my knee pads are what touches the bike, and they just slip, making it difficult to accelerate and hill climb without getting thrown around. I’ve been thinking of getting rubber grip tape, and this has good reviews. What do you guys think? I ride a 2001 rm125 and was thinking id put it on my gas tank, frame rails, and maybe my air box. https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Way-Traction-Resilient-Rubberized/dp/B00I511BDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=rubber+grip+tape&qid=1605916462&sr=8-4#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div Or this https://www.amazon.com/Core-Prodigy-Fusion-Silicone-Equipment/dp/B072QYQN7B/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=rubber%2Bgrip%2Btape&qid=1605916462&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
  6. I recently have been trying to get into motocross and I am wondering what fuel to run. I just use marine gas on my bike now, but was wondering what would be the best for motocross.
  7. Carb only leaks fuel when bike is running out of the overflow tube inside the carb, which causes the fuel to leak out the bottom of the tube because that is where the tube leads to. The bike does not leak with the fuel on and the bike not running. this means the float is not the problem. Could it be the petcock? Drain screw shouldn't be the problem because if it was the fuel would leak all the time.
  8. Just bought a Husqvarna TX300 and the stock mikuni is giving me the worst gas mileage I have ever experienced on any 2 stroke. There is a little bit of spooge but not enough to seem extremely rich. Also, when I began running out of gas I would shut the gas off and the remaining gas in the bowl seemed to go forever. Perhaps the float if too high?
  9. Not that many things on here regarding fuel and the Yz125 specifically. Locally, I can only get 91 octane ethanol gas, which is not what the manual calls for. It calls for 93 or higher......I have two other options each about 20 miles away....one is 93 octane ethanol gas from the pump, or go to sunoco and get 110 octane ethanol free......Any thoughts? Keep in mind, my engine is stock, and I don't plan to mod it out a whole lot in the near future. Any harm to running the 110 gas?
  10. Yes, I am asking what to buy, I’m sure there are a million other threads with a very similar question, but before bashing me for posting, please understand that although I am talking about the whole topic, I want to focus a large portion of this post on the expense of the two bikes, mostly the repair expense. Now that we’ve got that cleared up, I’m an intermediate rider, bought a brand new 2018 250XC last year and love the bike. I race hare scrambles, but lately I’ve been riding MX a lot and thinking about trying a new 4 stroke and getting something that will handle the track a bit better (suspension-wise). I’ve been told the 350’s are about as expensive as they get to repair when it comes to the engine, but I don’t truly know what the case is. Does anyone have some round-about numbers, any comparisons to the expense of the 450? Yes, I know the 450 costs a few hundred more up front, I don’t care about that, just looking at maintenance. Also, I’m worried that being used to the 250 2 stroke (and I ride with the red spring in, I like an aggressive feel) I will have a hard time getting used to a 350F, kind of like getting on a 250F where I feel like I’m pounding on the throttle to keep it moving. Is this anything to be worried about? In every other way I lean towards 350, being a 2 stroke guy, liking the lighter-weight, more nimble-feeling bikes.
  11. Okay so ever since I bought the bike a few months ago it always started up 1st try as long as I was at TDC (obviously I'd miss it sometimes so sometimes 2-3 kicks). The bike runs perfect is what I am trying to get across. Last night, 5/22/19 bike was running perfectly, and towards the end of the night (30mins before track closed) I went to truck to take a break and jumped back on it and it wouldn't start. So weird... So kicked a few more times, nothing. Waited around 20mins and tried again, still nothing. I dug further and decided to check the spark on the spark plug, spark plug looked like shit for one (see attached images) and I tried to get a spark out of it and I couldn't, bought one from AutoZone for $5 and came back and tested spark, saw a spark, great, put together bike and tried to kick a few times, nothing... So I ended up checking the valve clearances and they seemed fine and in spec Put everything back together again and at this point I was like hm... lets see what happens if I put a little bit of gas, about 1/2 of the top of a water bottle worth into the cylinder. Put the sparkplug back in and kicked it once and it started! Left it on for a few minutes to let it idle / rev it a little then I shut it off, re assembled the rest of the bike then sat back down on it once I was done and kicked it and started up first try again. So my question is, why all of the sudden did it start to seem perfectly fine?? Did that little bit of gas somehow unclog something along the way when it fired up the first time? I was just so confused because I really didn't do anything except replace the spark plug.
  12. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  13. Hey all Thinking about picking up a new IMS tank, but have a few questions first. I have some aftermarket rad guards, could be unibiker but doesn't have the logo on it. Will the tank still fit with the guards? Since the tank is plastic compared to the metal stocker, does that mean you save weight when swapping? I do SM races so if I fill it halfway, does that mean the bike is lighter than before? If I have a gravity fed petcock now, will that still work on the IMS? How is the quality of IMS?
  14. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  15. So i have a 2016 FC250 with the acerbis oversize tank, and it feels very wide. A friend with the exact same bike, only with an IMS tank rode mine and commented on its wideness as well. Anyone know the width of the IMS tank for this bike, so i have something to physically compare mine to? Thank you!
  16. Hi guys, I have EC 250 2008 racing and I have kind of rattle when idling and sticking idle. I set my mixture screw 1,5 turn out from fully closed and idle screw a lot in. Bike idles really fine no matter if cold or hot, but when I blip the throttle idle sticks higher and remains until I put gear and loose the clutch a bit or plug exhaust with my hand, than idle is back at normal speed. Can it be because air leak? I have sprayed chain lube on carb manifold and no change, so there is no leak, but maybe crankshaft seal?? Although I have rattle on idle that I think is normal for 2T but maybe not. I have very similar rattle on Husqvarna WR 125 which is after engine rebuild. Is it normal or not? Maybe rattle from reeds? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIytJVgRp44
  17. So, what type of gas I you use on your 501? where I live we can choose between RON 95 and RON 98. I've been using 95 this far, not really sure if it will be any advantages with the 98. Anyone got any experiences they'd like to share?
  18. I just bought my first 4 stroke which I’m very excited about, but after only owning a 2 stroke for many years I have realized I know next to nothing about storing and maintaining a fuel injected bike. So here are my question: - I would always empty the gas out of my two strokes carburetor, is there a version of that I need to do while storing in between rides? Or do I just let it be. Much appreciated!
  19. Is it alright to run Turbo Blue 110 octane in my 125 or should i mix it with reg? along with Amsoil Dominator of course
  20. Something strange happened with my 16´300rr. In a race with plenty of mud, after 30 minutes racing and accelerating at 3/4 gas, no more, suddenly the bike kept going like if I was full throttle. Scared, pulled the clutch and it over reved, thought it was going to blow. Moved the throttle thinking it was locked but no change. Had to kill switch it to full stop. Fast check, no harmed cable or anything. Started it with no problems, ride OK and 30 minutes later...again, , and then... again... 3 times on a single race! :?: :?: No visible damage anywhere, no locked cable, no locked throttle.... she just "kept going"... The most bizarre part was killing it, and starting like nothing ever happened without touching anything..... May be a spooky carb issue? I really have no idea, tomorrow I´m taking the carb off but I´m intrigued.... 😢
  21. So my friend bought an rm125 with a blown top end, so we replaced everything, got it all put back together and the bike wouldn't start. We are getting strong spark, but that doesn't seem to change anything. The carburetor was leaking a steady stream of fuel from the overflow when the petcock was opened, so I assumed since it was sitting for so long, probably just a stuck or blocked needle valve. Pulled the carburetor apart, cleaned it and put it back together. Same issue persisted. Eventually bought a new carburetor, installed it, and after a few kicks we are leaking gas again. The petcock has some issues, but that wouldn't cause an overflow would it? I would assume the float would still ride and cut off flow. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  22. I've wanted a 300 smoker for a long time, and now I've decided it's the time to do it. I've been already pretty much decided on a 2004-2007 300 EXC, but then I started browsing my local ads and noticed quite a few of these EC 300s for sale. I can get around a 2007-2010 EC 300 for the same money as a 2004-2007 300 EXC, that's why I've been considering it. Does anyone have experience with both of these, preferably these years? It's hard to find head to head comparisons on the internet for these two. Do the EC 300s and pre-2008 EXC 300s have an adjustable power valve? How do the engines and suspension compare? The only thing I've found out from my research is that owners of both seem to love their bikes.
  23. Hey All, This could just be me being a dumbass but I'm 100% sure that the gas switch is on PRI when it is running and it runs great, idols fine. But then I switch it to "on" and will be riding for a little and it the engine stops running and acts like it does when something runs out of gas. Any thoughts? Could the vacuum that sucks the gas be broken? Is it bad to run on PRI? Thanks
  24. I just bought it and it was starting up first kick every time, then all of a sudden when I was riding it, it would just bog down after giving it gas and eventually quit. So I thought it was out of gas and put more in. It wouldn't start up so I cleaned the carb out and tried it and it still wouldn't start. When i tried push starting it, it would start up and run as long as I was pushing it but it sounded bogged down still especially if I gave it gas and eventually it would quit when I got too tired to keep pushing it. Choke makes no difference. Seems like theres a good seal around the air boots, so what could this be??
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