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Found 47 results

  1. As I get my 2017 300xcw jetting sorted out I got my first estimate on fuel mileage. At a B pace in the woods I'm getting roughly 30 to 35 mpg. With the stock 2.5gal tank that should be good for about 75 miles. This is somewhat limiting in range. I am considering a IMS 3.2 gal (~95+ mile range) and Acerbis 3.0 gal (~90+ mile range) Who has put one of these tanks on their 2017 or 2018 smoker? How was fit and ergonomics?
  2. Not that many things on here regarding fuel and the Yz125 specifically. Locally, I can only get 91 octane ethanol gas, which is not what the manual calls for. It calls for 93 or higher......I have two other options each about 20 miles away....one is 93 octane ethanol gas from the pump, or go to sunoco and get 110 octane ethanol free......Any thoughts? Keep in mind, my engine is stock, and I don't plan to mod it out a whole lot in the near future. Any harm to running the 110 gas?
  3. Considering buying the IMS 4.0 or the Clarke 4.7 fuel tanks for my XR. My stock tank can't go far at all. Anyone care to share their fuel range with whatever tank they're running? I've heard 220 miles with the 4.7 which seems a bit optimistic considering I get 60-70 miles with my stock tank. My biggest concern is whether the tank will impede my movement on tight technical trails. I've also heard horrible stories of Clarke's customer support. Alternatively, I've considered buying a few 32oz fuel canisters and packing them on the back of the bike. But I'd hate to lose the storage space if aftermarket tanks won't impede my movement. If anyone has a used tank for sale I'm likely interested.
  4. I can't get my gas cap to come off! When trying to spin it off, it just kinda clicks like it isn't grasping or something. Not a fan of this new seemingly unnecessary gas cap design.
  5. Yes, I am asking what to buy, I’m sure there are a million other threads with a very similar question, but before bashing me for posting, please understand that although I am talking about the whole topic, I want to focus a large portion of this post on the expense of the two bikes, mostly the repair expense. Now that we’ve got that cleared up, I’m an intermediate rider, bought a brand new 2018 250XC last year and love the bike. I race hare scrambles, but lately I’ve been riding MX a lot and thinking about trying a new 4 stroke and getting something that will handle the track a bit better (suspension-wise). I’ve been told the 350’s are about as expensive as they get to repair when it comes to the engine, but I don’t truly know what the case is. Does anyone have some round-about numbers, any comparisons to the expense of the 450? Yes, I know the 450 costs a few hundred more up front, I don’t care about that, just looking at maintenance. Also, I’m worried that being used to the 250 2 stroke (and I ride with the red spring in, I like an aggressive feel) I will have a hard time getting used to a 350F, kind of like getting on a 250F where I feel like I’m pounding on the throttle to keep it moving. Is this anything to be worried about? In every other way I lean towards 350, being a 2 stroke guy, liking the lighter-weight, more nimble-feeling bikes.
  6. Okay so ever since I bought the bike a few months ago it always started up 1st try as long as I was at TDC (obviously I'd miss it sometimes so sometimes 2-3 kicks). The bike runs perfect is what I am trying to get across. Last night, 5/22/19 bike was running perfectly, and towards the end of the night (30mins before track closed) I went to truck to take a break and jumped back on it and it wouldn't start. So weird... So kicked a few more times, nothing. Waited around 20mins and tried again, still nothing. I dug further and decided to check the spark on the spark plug, spark plug looked like shit for one (see attached images) and I tried to get a spark out of it and I couldn't, bought one from AutoZone for $5 and came back and tested spark, saw a spark, great, put together bike and tried to kick a few times, nothing... So I ended up checking the valve clearances and they seemed fine and in spec Put everything back together again and at this point I was like hm... lets see what happens if I put a little bit of gas, about 1/2 of the top of a water bottle worth into the cylinder. Put the sparkplug back in and kicked it once and it started! Left it on for a few minutes to let it idle / rev it a little then I shut it off, re assembled the rest of the bike then sat back down on it once I was done and kicked it and started up first try again. So my question is, why all of the sudden did it start to seem perfectly fine?? Did that little bit of gas somehow unclog something along the way when it fired up the first time? I was just so confused because I really didn't do anything except replace the spark plug.
  7. Carb only leaks fuel when bike is running out of the overflow tube inside the carb, which causes the fuel to leak out the bottom of the tube because that is where the tube leads to. The bike does not leak with the fuel on and the bike not running. this means the float is not the problem. Could it be the petcock? Drain screw shouldn't be the problem because if it was the fuel would leak all the time.
  8. Just bought a Husqvarna TX300 and the stock mikuni is giving me the worst gas mileage I have ever experienced on any 2 stroke. There is a little bit of spooge but not enough to seem extremely rich. Also, when I began running out of gas I would shut the gas off and the remaining gas in the bowl seemed to go forever. Perhaps the float if too high?
  9. I recently have been trying to get into motocross and I am wondering what fuel to run. I just use marine gas on my bike now, but was wondering what would be the best for motocross.
  10. I’m struggling to grip with my knees on my dirtbike. Either my jeans or my knee pads are what touches the bike, and they just slip, making it difficult to accelerate and hill climb without getting thrown around. I’ve been thinking of getting rubber grip tape, and this has good reviews. What do you guys think? I ride a 2001 rm125 and was thinking id put it on my gas tank, frame rails, and maybe my air box. https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Way-Traction-Resilient-Rubberized/dp/B00I511BDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=rubber+grip+tape&qid=1605916462&sr=8-4#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div Or this https://www.amazon.com/Core-Prodigy-Fusion-Silicone-Equipment/dp/B072QYQN7B/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=rubber%2Bgrip%2Btape&qid=1605916462&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
  11. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  12. I've wanted a 300 smoker for a long time, and now I've decided it's the time to do it. I've been already pretty much decided on a 2004-2007 300 EXC, but then I started browsing my local ads and noticed quite a few of these EC 300s for sale. I can get around a 2007-2010 EC 300 for the same money as a 2004-2007 300 EXC, that's why I've been considering it. Does anyone have experience with both of these, preferably these years? It's hard to find head to head comparisons on the internet for these two. Do the EC 300s and pre-2008 EXC 300s have an adjustable power valve? How do the engines and suspension compare? The only thing I've found out from my research is that owners of both seem to love their bikes.
  13. Something strange happened with my 16´300rr. In a race with plenty of mud, after 30 minutes racing and accelerating at 3/4 gas, no more, suddenly the bike kept going like if I was full throttle. Scared, pulled the clutch and it over reved, thought it was going to blow. Moved the throttle thinking it was locked but no change. Had to kill switch it to full stop. Fast check, no harmed cable or anything. Started it with no problems, ride OK and 30 minutes later...again, , and then... again... 3 times on a single race! :?: :?: No visible damage anywhere, no locked cable, no locked throttle.... she just "kept going"... The most bizarre part was killing it, and starting like nothing ever happened without touching anything..... May be a spooky carb issue? I really have no idea, tomorrow I´m taking the carb off but I´m intrigued.... 😢
  14. So my friend bought an rm125 with a blown top end, so we replaced everything, got it all put back together and the bike wouldn't start. We are getting strong spark, but that doesn't seem to change anything. The carburetor was leaking a steady stream of fuel from the overflow when the petcock was opened, so I assumed since it was sitting for so long, probably just a stuck or blocked needle valve. Pulled the carburetor apart, cleaned it and put it back together. Same issue persisted. Eventually bought a new carburetor, installed it, and after a few kicks we are leaking gas again. The petcock has some issues, but that wouldn't cause an overflow would it? I would assume the float would still ride and cut off flow. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  15. Is it alright to run Turbo Blue 110 octane in my 125 or should i mix it with reg? along with Amsoil Dominator of course
  16. So i have a 2016 FC250 with the acerbis oversize tank, and it feels very wide. A friend with the exact same bike, only with an IMS tank rode mine and commented on its wideness as well. Anyone know the width of the IMS tank for this bike, so i have something to physically compare mine to? Thank you!
  17. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  18. Hey all Thinking about picking up a new IMS tank, but have a few questions first. I have some aftermarket rad guards, could be unibiker but doesn't have the logo on it. Will the tank still fit with the guards? Since the tank is plastic compared to the metal stocker, does that mean you save weight when swapping? I do SM races so if I fill it halfway, does that mean the bike is lighter than before? If I have a gravity fed petcock now, will that still work on the IMS? How is the quality of IMS?
  19. So, what type of gas I you use on your 501? where I live we can choose between RON 95 and RON 98. I've been using 95 this far, not really sure if it will be any advantages with the 98. Anyone got any experiences they'd like to share?
  20. Hi guys, I have EC 250 2008 racing and I have kind of rattle when idling and sticking idle. I set my mixture screw 1,5 turn out from fully closed and idle screw a lot in. Bike idles really fine no matter if cold or hot, but when I blip the throttle idle sticks higher and remains until I put gear and loose the clutch a bit or plug exhaust with my hand, than idle is back at normal speed. Can it be because air leak? I have sprayed chain lube on carb manifold and no change, so there is no leak, but maybe crankshaft seal?? Although I have rattle on idle that I think is normal for 2T but maybe not. I have very similar rattle on Husqvarna WR 125 which is after engine rebuild. Is it normal or not? Maybe rattle from reeds? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIytJVgRp44
  21. Bike: 2002 KTM 250sx. Problem: The carburetor seems like it is having difficulty delivering fuel to the engine. It will start and run for 5 to 10 seconds then die, It then takes about a minute before it will kick again. What's Already Done: I have taken both the carburetor and all of the throttle assembly off the bike and cleaned them. The bike ran a little longer after I did this but nothing more than that. Any suggestions to fix the issue are much needed and apperciated. Thanks -SLR
  22. I recently bought a Yamaha TTR 125. It has some problems, the bike does not idle and spills gas from the overflow in the carburetor. I've taken the carburetor apart several times to try and fix little thing that I believed where the problem. I was able to stop the overflow temporarily by adjust the float, but that started back up again but not nearly as bad. I still cant get the bike to idle and its very tough to start. I'm planning on buying a new carburetor but I wanted to see if there was anything anyone new I should try to get it to run. It also has another problem when it is running, shifting gears it seems to just skip gear 2 and 3, anyone know how to fix that?
  23. Hey all, I just bought a street legal 2005 WR250F. Took it out once three weeks ago. Did about 60 miles on the dirt and 15 on the road, bike ran great. I took it out this past Sunday and was about 75 miles into my ride when the battery died. The battery is cheap, but it is brand new and was on a battery maintainer the whole time while it sat in the garage. I kick started it, and it fired right up. I was on the road for about 5-10 miles in fifth gear when I felt the bike slow down a little bit, and I noticed the sound coming from the bike sounded a bit deeper than usual. About a half mile later the bike started to bog down like it was out of gas. I filled the tank back up and experienced the same problem. The bike began to bog down, then puttered out like it was out of gas. Eventually the battery completely died and I was not even able to kick start it. I trailored it home, hooked it up to the maintainer, waited a couple hours, and the bike fired right up with the electric starter and the choke out. However, it was still puttering a lot when it was idling at this time. If anyone knows whats up, I would appreciate any and all help. Thank you. #Yamaha#wr250f
  24. Hey everyone. I recently got my 2004 rmz250 back up and running however I’m having an issue with the bike bogging when I go over rough bumps, or popping up the front tire. If I’m riding on flat land the bike runs perfect with no issues. When the bike bogs over bumps it feels like a lean bog, engine isn’t firing. Thinking float height maybe? Although the float height seemed fine when I reassembled the bike but I did not look too closely. Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
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