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Found 26 results

  1. Previous owner used some sort of nasty sealer on 2000 KTM 125 headgasket. Razor blade would not touch it beyond this. I had 2 headgaskets out of 5 heads that were stuck this bad. Suggestions?
  2. So I have an 07 cr 125 fouling plugs before the bike even has a chance to warm up, plugs come out wet and oily on the tip. had both crank seals replaced last season because my main drive side seal blew. While it was split I had a new crank put in, we noticed my cylinder plating was pooched so I sent my cylinder off to be re-plated, put a new piston in the shiny new looking cylinder put the old warped head back on and called it a day. then rode it all season having absolutely no idea about the warped head because I overlooked it when I was excited to put my bike back together and ride. Its now winter, snows on the ground. I recently went to go for a put and fouled a plug before I could get to the end of the street and back. I was also smelling coolant so checked the rad while running the bike, lots of movement and tiny bubbes. Pulled the head off and sure enough it was warped to the point where I could rock it back amd fourth on the mirror and see a small gap... so NOW after I replaced the head my problems persisted and I can still see little bubbles swirling around vigorously in the rad if I rev it with the cap off, I've had boiled it down to my cylinder probably being warped then I found a leaky hose by the exhaust that was dripping coolant onto the outside of the exhaust port. Which brings me to what I think may be an incredibly stupid question, could it just be the loose hose sucking in air that is causing my rad fluid to have small bubbles in it? And maybe im just experiencing increadibly rich jetting now that my head is actually sealed properly? over and out.
  3. Alright, so I just got done rebuilding the top end on my 07 KX 450F and as I am getting ready to install the top of the cylinder head I notice I have one last piece remaining that I can't account for. I mark everything and take several pictures so I can make sure everything is put back together perfectly, but somehow this piece evaded me. I showed where I think it goes in one of the pictures I provided. Can someone tell me if I am right or if this piece goes somewhere completely different?
  4. I installed a Cylinder Works 434cc kit a while back that came with all necessary gaskets. I'm now having some head work done and need to replace gaskets. Is the big bore head gasket different from the stock head gasket? What ways can you measure them to know?
  5. Hey I had an exhaust leak where my expansion chamber slips on the manifold on my 97 cr125. so I installed new studs and nuts and bought 2 new seals for the manifold as I pulled two off. I was wondering how many seals are actually supposed to be on the manifold before I put it back together? On manual diagram they show a seal but not how many. There were two on there when I pulled it apart (one on the bottom and one on top of that one)The bottom one is worn i have two new ones just incase and also bought versa Chem exhaust joint and crack sealer (high temp) to make sure nothing gets by ! Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks
  6. So, I have a 1998 Yamaha yz80, and it's had a lot of hours on the top end, so it's time for a rebuild. I have a neighbor who is going to help me with it, so i havent taken it apart yet. I'm trying to figure if my bike needs a whole new piston kit, or a gasket kit, or does it need new reeds? So its lost compression. Way less then what it used to be before. The bike is really hard to start, and it fouls my plugs like none other. It doesen't have too much of a power loss, although, the powerband has become weaker. I just want my bike to be running like how it used to be, and I don't want to spend a lot of money on it. It will start sometimes, but most of the time, it will only bumpstart. I appreciate you viewing this, now, so let me know of what I need.
  7. So my negligence has left me with several hooked teeth on the balancer drive sprocket (directly behind the flywheel on crankshaft). I need some help on replacing it. 1.) The manual states that i need special tool 09917-23711 (ring nut socket wrench) in order to remove the old one and torque down the replacement. I've seen the Suzuki branded tool for $114 - 180. There's also an undbranded one on ebay for $60. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Cranksh ... 2630!US!-1 If I can help I'd rather not have to purchase a tool I'm only going to use once. Does anyone have one they can lend me if I put a deposit on it? 2.) The manual also states that I need a Conrod Holder #09910-20116, I'm guessing that would stop the crank from spinning during removal and reinstallation. Is there any way I could get around this as well? I've seen a youtube video of someone locking up the piston by feeding a shoestring through the sparkplug hole. I'm not sure I trust that not to go wrong and have dirt/fabric in my cylinder. If I put the bike in gear and ratchet strap the rear wheel to the frame or something more stout, like a tree, would that prevent the crank from spinning? 3.) Also part # 12662-37402 Suzuki balancer drive sprocket usually runs about $130 new. Does anyone have a used one in decent condition they'd be willing to cut me a deal on?
  8. I just recently re-installed my White Bros exhaust system on my 2001 Wr250f. It's a two piece (header and muffler). I installed the header, then slipped on the muffler. The muffler fit very loose around the header where they meet. I tried angling the header and muffler at all different angles, yet still very loose. So I went ahead and used some high temp gasket maker, which failed the first ride. Am I missing a gasket or spacer of some sort? If I push the muffler into the header and extra 1/4 inch it fits air tight, but then I cannot bolt the muffler into the mounting brackets. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  9. I've decided to attempt the mid-body gasket replacement on my vintage 2000 slant FCR carb, stock on the DRZ 400 E. If you are like me you have scoured the forums for info on doing this service but found maybe 2 or 3 pictures of a taken apart FCR, dead end threads, and tons of negativity. BUT! Is it really that difficult of a repair to perform correctly? Well I have had my carb on and off at least a dozen times, trying different jets, cleaning, etc. For the last 3 years I've been getting by with the coast enrichener circuit bypassed to at least get enough fuel in the idle circuit to run ok. But it just wasn't working anymore. I could clean the carb out and get it to run for a little while, but after sitting it wouldn't start again. I tried ordering a refurb FCR-MX over a week ago and the guy has gone MIA and nothing shipped. I ordered from keihin-fcr.com. I would advise avoiding... But will update if I hear back and he has a decent reason for the delay. Anyways, it made me seriously look into the "unserviceable" midbody gasket. I mean, you can buy the gasket here: https://www.ebay.com/i/401380298480?chn=ps So today I ripped the carb apart again, but this time to the very last fastener, separating the carb bodies. I even found my smoking gun, in the one picture with the hoop thingy removed you can see the gasket has expanded and spilled into a passageway. This passageway leads directly to the pilot jet, blocking it's flow. Though as you can see every rubber piece inside is completely trashed. Which makes sense, do you really expect these gaskets to last 20 years? Or in this case 18? If you have taken apart your FCR and went, wow that fuel bowl gasket is recked yo! I need a new one! Well you can bet your mid-body gasket looks the same. Really I see no reason I couldn't get this sealed back up with a new gasket and some fuel-proof RTV to replace the epoxy seal around the edge. Why wouldn't it work? Just doesn't make sense to me all the negativity you find toward this repair.... But I haven't finished yet so who knows if it will actually work on the bike. But I think it'll run like new when I'm done. I hope it works out for me and I can inspire some others who would otherwise be forced to buy an 800 dollar carb to do this repair instead. Wish me luck!
  10. Hey guys, long time fan of the forum, but first time poster. I have a 2001 Yamaha YZ426F with what appears to be an aftermarket Keihin carburetor. The numbers stamped on the bowl are 5BE1 01MK02. I cannot figure out what "model" carb this is. It does not appear to be the factory carb due to the lack of a hot start. Does anyone know where I can find this information? I need a new gasket on the bowl, and it's been very frustrating dealing with my local bike shops. I attached a couple of pictures of the carb in question. Thanks in advance for any and all help! This site has been a great resource for many years. If I have posted this in the wrong section please let me know so I can correct it.
  11. 2009 DRZ400SM It's my first time replacing a headgasket so I'm a little perplexed by the parts I ordered. I got the headgasket (not pictured as I don't have any questions about it), but these others I'm not too sure about. 1. Top left is the old cylinder/crankcase gasket, and to the right is the one from the kit. However, the old one is the typical 3-ply, and all I got in the kit is this card-material one. Should I use it? And is it meant to replace the 3-ply one or supplement it? 2. This kit also includes a cam chain tensioner gasket (bottom right), but there wasn't one on the bike before. Should I throw it on there just to be safe, or will that extra material mess with the tensioner's auto-setting? 3. What in the hell are all of the pieces in this little bag? I know kits are sometimes universal and contain unnecessary parts, but I just want to make sure I don't skip anything I should be replacing.
  12. Hello. I just picked up a 1985 Honda XR350R. It's got an oil leak coming from the right side crank case gasket. I haven't been able to find the part anywhere, does anyone know where I can find one? Also does anyone have any experience using gasket sealer instead of a traditional gasket on these bikes? Is that a good substitute if I cant find the gasket? Thanks
  13. Hey all, New ktm owner as of Friday- '16 xcf-w 350 w/ 13 hours. (First real dirtbike too!) To the point- rode it about 30 minutes Sat and 15 minutes Sunday. After each ride (on the next day) several drops of oil were discovered below the engine (dripped from engine case near oil plug due to lean of bike). Bottom of engine revealed gouges from PO riding w/out skid plate. I think the centerline gasket may be leaking laterally to the oil plug. After cleaning well and idling bike for 10 minutes, I could feel faint oil at the gasket while everything else is dry. But I didnt feel it til an hour or so later. Btw, There seems to be too much oil in engine- 5-10 minutes after shutting engine down, oil level was high in sightglass. Seller said bike had just been serviced but couldnt say what all was done. He likes his toys; doesnt work on them at all. Bike looked awesome in the dimly lit garage of seller- shouldve noticed oil level was off and the gouges under engine. Bike looked really good. Oil leak from bash or what? Thanks for any help, John
  14. Before I put my 05 CRF250R away for the winter it was running weird. I noticed it was leaking oil out of the engine cover. It was understandable because i had just put a new stator in. The bike had been running oddly for some time before i realized it was leaking. I just took the bike out for the spring and now it doesn't even start. I bought a new engine gasket to try to fix the leak. I am currently installing it. I am wondering if the low compression could've messed up the top end? I rode it with low compression for about three weeks before it started to bog so bag i couldn't ride it anymore. Will replacing the seal fix my issue or have i created a whole new one?
  15. mcnally21

    Clutch

    I have a 2014 kx250f and I will be stopped and when I go to take off I let out the clutch and it is really jumpy. And every once in a while It almost feels like a grind in the clutch before Im about to take off like when the clutch engages. I think it is the clutch plates and fibers that I could need replaced and I called my near by motorcycle dealer and asked and he said it might be a clutch basket. Any ideas? Clutch basket is about 200$ vs Plates and fibers with heavy duty springs are 60$ on rocky mountain.
  16. Hi all, I've had a gasket perish on the stator cover of my KTM 625 LC4. I originally thought it was the small starter cover above (to the left in the photograph), but now the rubber seal on this has been replaced, I'm sure it can't be this. The image I've attached also shows that the stator cover gasket looks tired, it looks shrunken into the cover and darker where the oil seems to have soaked it. My question is, can the replacement of the cover gasket be done without dropping the oil? Someone with an RC8 has stated that it doesn't need a full oil drain for this... But that's a different bike. Additionally, does the gasket need preparing with any type of sealant? Last of all, many have said that the paper gaskets have a pretty limited lifespan, is there a different type of replacement gasket I should be using that will last more indefinitely? The leak is currently pretty minimal, I'm assuming I have a couple of rides left in it before it becomes more urgent. I do want to address it soon though as anything leaking drives me bat shi- You lot know I'm sure. Image references (blue is wind, shows where it has blown oil onto starter cover and bolt head, orange is line of gasket reference, black is the suspect leak location (dirtier and gasket shrunken, looks soaked in oil). Yellow shows where oil has travelled). Cheers Wilbert
  17. Bike is a 1999 Suzuki RM125. I had the crankshaft rebuilt, so during the install I had put in new crank bearings, new crank seals, new case gasket, new reeds, and a new top end. I also cleaned the carb and put in the recommended jets for my exhaust and elevation/temperature. I run 32:1 fuel mix. I also put in a new primary gear, which is what contacts the oil seal. I put axle grease into the seal before inserting the primary gear. The bike smokes more than it should, and I'm pretty sure the cause is that transmission oil is leaking into the crankshaft area and eventually getting into the cylinder. I would top off the oil and check the level with the little bolt on the side of the clutch cover. After a while of riding I would take the bolt out and I would have to tip the bike quite a bit for anything to come out. I don't understand why it could leak. I also topped off the coolant, and the level stayed the same, so that's not leaking. Do you think its still getting in through the seal? If not, where could it get in from? There was quite a discussion as to the orientation of the seal itself here, but since that post I have installed a new seal with spring side out (which is different than most bikes, but I think that's what the manual says).
  18. Hello, I just installed a full FMF system on my 2008 yz450f. Its a factory 4 slip with the mega bomb header. Had a couple questions. My first question is per the installation directions it states to put RTV high temp gasket maker at the header/slip on connection, my question is if there is suppose to be some kind of the gasket from the header into the motor? I dont believe there is but just wanna confirm. My 2nd question is on the directions it says some bikes dont need to be jetted unless given direction, which mine didnt say to. Just wanted to see if anyone has the same bike or around the same year that had to jet or didnt have to? Thanks
  19. Hey. Just serviced my yz450 yesterday rode it today and white smoke is coming out. Im pretty sure its the headgasket but want confirmation before i tear it apart. Thats the oil after one ride
  20. So I have a 2005 yz 125 that I purchased recently. It has a lot of new parts on it such as brand new exhaust and silencer and many other things. It also has vforce reeds in them. I was just doing some regular maintenance on it and stuff. Drained the old gas out and put new, cleaned the carb, checked the reeds. They were fine however I did notice that the gasket between the valve and the engine was tearing. Part of it actually teared off but I didn't have anything else to fix it with so I just put it back on, trying to seal it best I could. I did some research and saw that some people say these reeds tend to cause air leaks if silicone is not used. I started my bike up and it ran fine but sometimes when I gave it a short blip of throttle it would either die or idle would go down significantly. This was happening before I took the reed valve off to inspect it. There was a bog when I first got it but i set the air screw at 1.5 turns out and it went away. The compression on the bike isn't the greatest either, around 120 psi. It runs fine though, other than at idle its kind of weird. Bike pulls VERY hard though so I don't think it needs a top end or anything but I could be wrong. Just need to know what's causing this weird idle. Plug also is usually wet when I take it out. Jetting is at 141 main and 40 pilot. Taking this all into consideration, what could be the cause? Also some vent hoes are missing from the carb, don't know if that would affect it?
  21. Hi this is my first post hope it’s in the right area - I’m fitting the cylinder after doing piston ring end gaps. The cylinder mating with the crank case has obviously the gasket and there are two locating dowels on the left hand side near the cam chain opening. There is also a larger hole for the water jacket which the manual talks about having a larger dowel with an o ring on it. I don’t remember taking one off. The parts catalogue in Uk 🇬🇧 doesn’t show one in a 2001 model but the manual doesn’t support that theory ? Conflict ensues. Do I need one on WR250f 2001 . It is located at the fwd right of the cylinder/crankcase about 15mm diameter and is for water passage. There is one on the outlet onto the water impeller. I’m thinking the gasket enough will seal and maybe the other models use it for increased water pressure ? I.e the run a ferrule and o ring as well ?
  22. Can you remove the cylinder without replacing a brand new rocker gasket? I recently installed a new rocker gasket when doing the top end on my cr250r I new down pin was coroded but did not have any spare “shameful” I tightened it all up and started the bike once.
  23. I cranked my bike up today and rode it a bit ('06 YZ250F). There was some white smoke when I first cranked it up and it went away shortly. I assumed it was because it was cold outside, as the smoke had no distinctive smell and, as stated, it went away shortly. I'm just adding that in case it has something to do with my issue. Anyways, a few hours after my ride I went into the garage and pulled off my pressure cap just to take a routine look at the coolant. The coolant wasn't even visible at first but after shaking the bike around a bit I could see some at the bottom (THANK GOD). I refilled the radiator and put the cap back on and then started the bike up. No smoke, no smells, and the bike runs mint as usual. The bike had been sitting for 3 weeks before this, if that has anything to do with it. WHY is my radiator running out of coolant? I could see no water on the engine (sign of a leak) and my hoses appear fine. The pressure cap looks a bit dry rotted and is difficult to get off and on. However, wouldn't I notice if it was faulty? ANY help/ideas appreciated. Please let me know why my bike is drinking coolant! I can answer any questions as needed.
  24. Can’t find Ignition / sprocket side cover gasket I’ve looked and looked but can’t find one that looks like this I’ll post a pic it’s ripped tho that’s why I need a new one
  25. Hey guys, just curious as i recently bought an older crf450 and I am doing my first valve replacement myself and as I pulled off the valve cover there was a large pool of oil around the springs. Spark plug is dry. Is oil in the valve cover normal? Trying to find any extra parts I might need to replace while I have the top end torn apart. Thanks!
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