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  1. Would you please help me find a place to buy a 52 or 53 tooth, cheap, steel rear sprocket for my 1991 XR250R? Sunstar online catalog only shows up to a 48 tooth for the pre-1996 XR250R's. ebay/amazon wants to sell me 48 tooth. I'm running 12/48 now.
  2. I have a 1989 RM250 that I just finished rebuilding and I have some questions about the gearing and torque. First off, I am 6'2 and 225lbs if that makes a difference. Right now it has a very good top speed and decent acceleration with the 50/13 or 3.84/1 gearing ratio it has right now. As a track bike it feels OK but because I do a lot of trail and enduro riding and need to be able to pick up the front end a bit easier to get it over logs and such. I prefer to stay away from clutch wheelies if I can so even if I crack the throttle in 1st the front wheel only likes to raise a few inches off the ground and I cant sustain a wheelie like I can on my 83 KDX175. I was planning to re-gear the bike with a 54 tooth on the back. I am hoping this can be changed with the gearing ratios and its not a power valve or carb problem. I am hoping that this would up the torque a bit but I am new to re-gearing and I don't know If it would be a big enough difference on the trail. If anyone knows anything about the topic I would appreciate any information.
  3. Hi I've got myself a KXF250 2017 that I'm looking to change the gearing on, currently running 13/50 and the bikes got a huge hit of power off the bottom end and I'm looking to smooth out the power so I don't get that big hit all at once. I've been doing a bit of research and I'm thinking of dropping to a 48 rear, with only going down 2 teeth will this really make that much of a difference? I've also been toying with 14/48 to really try and smooth it out, what's people take on this? Long winded one but all advice is appreciated just can't seem to find answers to these questions anywhere Thanks
  4. In my search to setup my DRZ and XR as I wanted, I found endless topics on what gearing and handlebar setups are the best. Not only on the DRZ and XR forum, but all of them. There is really great advice but it always depends on what the other rider prefers, which is sometimes hard to gauge. While looking for my perfect setup, I found these websites, that helped me a lot. I am not affiliated with them or anything like that, they're tools I found that work really well. I haven't seen these linked on this forum yet, so I thought I would. The first is www.gearingcommander.com. It is a calculator for you gearing, obviously, but is has so many options and an enormous database of models. It lets you compare three setups, where you can change pretty much everything and gives info on top speed, rpm in gears at a certain speed, what -1 or +1 would mean for speed or rpm, but also the number of chain links needed, chain speed and number of chain contacts with the sprocket. For the DRZ you can even change the actual ratio for the gearbox, if you have an ACT box installed, to see what the effect is. The other is www.cycle-ergo.com. A calculator for riding position. After choosing a bike you can adjust handlebar, foot peg and seating position, seat height, and body posture. There's an option to view with a pillion, and to the enter your inseam and have the feet on the ground to see if you will reach. None of this info says anything about how it will feel to ride, but it lets you compare your current setup to what is suggested and get an idea of what to expect. The perfect setup is wholly subjective, so it can be hard to decide what advice to follow and this lets you see it with your own eyes. Saved me ordering a bunch of wrong parts. For the Japanese brands, if you're looking for high quality parts fiches, OEM parts numbers or OEM parts that are hard to find, www.cmsnl.com is a good spot to look. Again, not affiliated, just helped me out a lot. It is easy to find the part number for something you need, then look for that part number to what bikes have it. Sometimes the same part is much cheaper if ordered for a different model. They even stock the ball and spring that lock the passenger pegs on the DRZ-400S and SM to give you an idea of their selection. They consolidated all Japanese motorcycle parts dealers in the Netherlands, to make finding parts easy. They've been expanding into Europe ever since. The non-Japanese selection is growing, but isn't as big yet. Finally, a good reference is www.motorcyclespecs.co.za, which a database with all the basic factory specs for pretty much every bike ever made for every model year and variation, including a review on many models. I found it useful to see the differences between model years and variations, when ordering parts. Hope this helps someone with setup, riding comfort and parts!
  5. Hi all, Looking at changing the chain & both sprockets on my 2002 200 exc. Currently running 14 f 42 r sprockets (this is what came with the bike) I ride green lanes with occasional easily ISH hill climbs and I was wondering if anyone would suggest a different gearing for the 200 exc? Cheers
  6. I have a stock 2009 KTM XC 200. I use it mainly for woods riding - singletrack, some doubletrack - and plan to start racing recreational harescrambles. Ideally I would have picked up an XCW version, but got a great deal on this XC. Lots of my buddies are riding KTM/Husky 250/300 TTs, and most of the time they are 2nd gear in the tight stuff. I find myself needing to be in 1st gear in similar situations, due to 2nd gear feeling too high sped, therefore stalling a lot. For me stalling is extra shitty because I have kickstart only. Sure, my buds have bigger bikes with tractor-like low end power. Yes, I am a new rider and need to improve my clutch work. Yes, I could try a heavier flywheel. No, I do not want a Rekluse clutch. So here's my question: I currently have the stock 14 tooth front sprocket and stock 48 tooth rear sprocket. Wondering if there's a better sprocket combination I could try to dial-in my bike for riding tighter/tougher singletrack in 2nd gear? I realize I'll have to potentially sacrifice some top-end speed, but that's okay, I rarely ride open stuff. Thanks for any ideas!
  7. Hello this is my first post and I just had a question. I have a cr85r and I am looking to get more top end speed out of it. I have stock sprockets on it but plan on buying knew ones. Just don’t know what tooth amount I should get on either of em. I am getting about 60ish out of it and am looking for like 65-68, just a little push. I am a 125 pound 14 year old if that helps anyone. Also the bike is being driven on usually flat pavement. Thanks!
  8. Appologies for the book but bare with me here, in need of some input... Ok, so i bought a wr250f it wasnt street legal i made it legal and got plated through south dakota. I did a baja designs enduro lighting harness kit with the stator modification. Put an fmf slip on exhaust on it and jetted the carb. I forget what jets i used and i put an air fuel mixture screw in it. Problem1.After my baja kit i put on it wouldnt start. Turned out that the solenoid under the seat was loose or something i pushed down on it when it was clicking and it started running again. Problem 2.Went riding, it ran great on the trails. Went riding for a day or 2 on the street, after a while the electric start stopped working and it became a bitch to kick over. It started making the same click noise like when the battery is dead under the seat. Idk whats up with that. Then on the street i was riding and the bike stopped having power in the throttle i would pin it full throttle and it wouldnt take off like it usuallt does. I pulled over, let it sit for 5min and kicked it over again and the power i had came back in the throttle. It did that 2 more times durring the ride and i went home. Do you think this is a computer issue, a carb issue, fuel air ratio issue. Im going to do an airbox mod on it thiss weekend maybe thatll help. Problem3. I ordered some rims and stuff from warp9 so i can sumo it out and i was curious on what size sprocket would make my gears longer and better so im not maxing my rpms out at 40mph. I can do a solid 65mph on the bike but thats like pushing it and im in 5th gear as soon as i hit like 30mph, id love 6gears but im trying to avoid regearing the bike and using a smaller sprocket in the rear and maybe a tooth or 2 bigger in the front i guess, i still wanna be able to pull wheelies. I feel like im gonna blow the motor if i leave it alone and just ride street with it. Mind you this was the wr250f=for off road use only. not the wr250r=street legal from factory, i live in nj. I should have just got the street legal one or a supermoto already done but i wanted to build one and make it custom for me. I already put alot of money in to it and dont even own it 100% yet so im not trying to get rid of it anytime soon. Im not even done with it yet.
  9. Would anyone know the best gearing for desert, long ranges, I have 13/49 and I feel I can go faster, anyone know what I should use for more top speed?
  10. I've done a little bit of searching and I can't seem to find a reliable source for the stock sprocket set up for my bike, 2008 KTM 250 XC-F. I bought it second hand with 13/50 which was great to learn with, lots of torque to the rear wheel and it lugs well with the 280cc Big Bore kit. My issue now is that I am beginning to advance in my riding skill and constantly find myself needing more speed. I top out at about 38-40 mph and in hare scrambles (straight open sections) and even on big MX tracks (XL double features) I need more speed at times. I am open to suggestions about what works for others but would also like to know what came stock on this bike. Thanks y'all! Mark
  11. Hi guys, I'm currently using a 2017kxf250 at my local MX track for fun and fitness, but plan to race cross country next month with the same bike. When out trail riding in similar conditions yesterday i noted especially the very low top speed in 5th, perhaps 90kph ,With stock 13-50 gearing. Has anyone done much riding on a 250f mx bike with higher gearing, say 14-48 or 13-46, i am also weary of not having a low enough 1st cog for the odd ugly section. As it sits now i can predict me getting demoralized on the straights plus i hate holding bikes flat out . Any experience appreciated.
  12. eddster500r

    DRZ400 Mods

    2009 DRZ400sm I bought this bike with a little less then 600 miles. I have since put down more 60000 miles on the bike. I thought I would share a little about my bike and the modes i have been able to do. 1. Gearing I Run a 16 tooth front sprocket and a 37 tooth rear. And you can go all the way down to 35 tooth if you wanted to slightly modify the rear hub. I would advise against this. My opinion, a with mildly modified DRZ(exhaust and 3x3 mod) I would not go with taller gearing than 16-39 or 15-37. 2. Rear Tire, You can run up to 160/60 R17, My opinion 150/70 R17 is the best handling. 3. Rewiring Charging cable, by shortening and using a thicker gauge wire that is routed from the battery over to the starter relay and then back into the loom. As well as bringing down the Fuse AMP down to 15amp. 15amp is enough to operate 100 watts of light. 4. 4mm Stroker, Can be installed using the stalk piston and 91 pump gas. 5mm stroker needs to modify the crank case and replace the piston.
  13. Let me start off by apologizing if this is a duplicate thread, at the time of writing the search function seems to be unavailable. When riding on road (the DRZ is my only transport) the bike seems to really hate 50 zones. Seems that 50 is right between 4th to 5th shift point, unreasonably busy in 4th and and borderline lugging on the flat in 5th, is this normal for the standard gearing? How do you guys get around this? I have messed around with jetting and mixture in an attempt to try and get just a little more power to cruise in 5th at 50 but it just either isn't to be or more likely I am not experienced enough to get what I am after. Extra relevant info. I'm a bit of a large fella, 110kg (240lb) riding an '08 E model, 3x3, rejet, standard 14:47 sprockets, 130/80-18 rear.
  14. Hi Folks, I have a 2005 Honda CRF250x with standard sprocket gearing of 14/53. It's time to change my chain and I found a DID 520VT2-114 Gold Narrow X-Ring chain on Amazon that I wanted only to find out my bike takes 116. The problem is this chain is unavailable in 116 is paractically unavailable (are they phasing it out??) I finally found it in one place and unfortunately they are charging $35, more like $50 with shipping. Apparently those two extra links are SOLID Gold ? It occurred to me that if I could shorten my wheelbase, enough, I could invest a little on sprockets (front one needs replacing anyway) and buy the 114 from Amazon and would save a lot of money on future chains ( assuming I like it)and the gearing. However , I would like to keep a either a 14/53 or 13/53 feel as I am more interested in low end acceeleration/torque than top speed. I'm assuming I'd have to drop 1 tooth in the front and at least a few in the back to meet the 114 requirement. Is this feasible options... or am I out of luck here? If yes, what are the required front/back sprocket tooth counts?
  15. Hey everyone, I have a stock 2018 crf250l and Im ready to dump money into it. I’m thinking of FMF exhaust with mega bomb headers, seat concept seat, warp9 wheel and tire setup, and a EJK. Just wondering what the best sprocket setup would be? I just want the most out of the bike I can get for fun street, wheelie stuff. Also, do I need to stiffen the rear shock?
  16. Not sure if this will help anyone but I researched incessantly for an answer and didn’t find what I was looking for. I have a 91 XR250L and my chain and sprockets were wore out from previous owner. The gearing on it was 12 front and 42 rear. Stock is 13/40. I simply wanted to know how much different the bike would perform at stock gearing vs what I had on it. The answers I kept finding was for much different gearing that is far from stock. I just couldn’t get an accurate account on how stock runs. The 12/42 had a lot of low end punch and good enough top end for what I use it for which is trails and dirt roads. I couldn’t get sprockets locally in any size but stock. I already had the stock sizes that came with the bike and they are new. I bought a chain and put the new stock sprockets on and it is different but not in a bad way. Less low end but still plenty for any trails you would ride unless it gets very technical like climbing rocks or other stuff you see the red bull hard enduro guys do 😂. It’s less snappy but 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear are still very useable for trails and the last 3 gears seem endless. So if anyone is wondering how stock gearing performs on the 250L.... it’s fine and it’s useable. I’ll report back after a more in-depth ride this Friday!
  17. So I was just curious about other peoples experience with using multiple different front sprockets on their street legal dirtbikes (My 2007 CRF450X is PA legal) for getting to and home from trails. My idea would be to carry a "highway" sprocket and a "trail" sprocket in my tool kit and swap back and fourth when going to/leaving the trails I would need to take highways to get to. I live in a redneck little city in NE PA and have to ride about an hour or 2 to get to any good trails. What I'm trying to figure out is since I ordered nearly the maximum length chain to fit my current off-road gearing with the adjustment on the swingarm having barely anything left but enough to compensate for chain stretch, what would be the maximum size sprocket I could fit on the front end (even if I have to remove the chainguard/case saver) just for highway/road use to keep RPM down and MPG up? I'm not interested in trying to remove the rear sprocket every time since not only are they hella more expensive but also a more time consuming process compared to swapping out front sprockets. Have people done this before? My biggest concern is with my trail gearing the bike is around 7.5k rpm at 65-70 mph, I don't feel like holding the bike at that high of an RPM range for 2 hours straight to get to a trail, that's just cruel xD
  18. I am hoping to get some tips and advice on my recent purchase of a 2008 yz 250f. Before this bike I had an 02 wr426f. I switched to get a lighter bike that would be better suited for tighter trails and the track, and can definitely notice the obvious differences between the wr and yz. I am a novice at best, and am not an adrenaline junky either. I plan to do another hare scramble next year with the yz 250f after I get used to this bike. There is obviously a huge difference from the 426, and am wondering if i can close the gap between the two while maintaining some of the feel of the yz. Does this make any sense??? Do you have any suggestions on gearing or anything else that would help "smooth" out the low end power? I realize its already less intense than the bikes 2 stroke counterpart, but still wondering if there is anything that can be done? I do not need instant ripping power simply based on my riding style, but at the same time am not looking to putz through the trails and track. I was thinking of going up 1 tooth on the front sprocket, but from what I have read am now slightly concerned about that on the tighter trails that I ride. I don't feel the need to be the fastest rider on the trails or under any illusion that I will be getting "discovered" by anyone lol. I am 35 years old and weigh about 170lbs. I had considered dropping down to a 125, but think it wouldn't handle my weight well or might not hang in some of terrain that I occasionally ride. I appreciate any constructive advice!
  19. My 2014 KTM 500 EXC is pushing 510cc, but it's not making the perfect hill climbing bike. My brother's motocross 2013 KX450F is much better. His first gear is nice and fast, his second gear can be run quite slow but also very fast, and his 3rd gear can be run pretty slow and super fast. My bike can't achieve this no matter what sprocket combo I try. My bike wants to keep the range of the first gear so short that it is almost unusable and the same goes for 2nd. Then when it is time to shift into 3rd that gear is too spread out. I can be on the rev limiter for 3 seconds and when I grab 3rd gear it will bog on me. If you are wondering I really don't think anything is wrong with the motor so let's please try avoiding answers like - "get your motor checked out". So far the best combination I have found for the purposes of hill climbing are a 15T on the front and a 47T on the back. This makes first gear somewhat usable, and 2nd gear has a ton of power, but it hits the rev limiter almost always and then grabbing 3rd gear just causes a complete loss of power. What is going on in a transmission that is causing this problem? Is there any hope to altering something to get what I want? I am willing to spend big money to get it. Let's just say that I am willing to spend $2500 at the drop of the hat for a solution. And no...I don't want a motocross bike because I want the advantage of the bigger motor 😉 In the attached photo I hit the rev limiter about right there. And at that spot my brother is still accelerating in 3rd gear. It just doesn't make any sense.
  20. First post on here. I bought a 2020 YZ450FX I absolutely love everything about the bike except the gearing sometimes. I ride a ton of different terrain but I mostly ride with people who have 450f or similar bikes so we never end up in anything more technical then they can ride. I definitely have an edge in the woods but it’s not worth it too me because on the track 1st gear as people have mentioned is way too low. It also makes it difficult to work together on speed for jumps they’ll tell me oh I’m hitting it in 2nd wide open and for me I’ll have to be in like 3rd 1/4 to get the same result ect. Is there a good solution in changing the sprocket at all? Should I go up and use second as first or down and how many? Mostly would just like 2nd and 3rd gear to match up better with the Race model
  21. I have a 2002 cr103 with a open bottom end adding 23 cc to the engine but hope for a little help I want to go wide ratio but I’m not to sure what parts to get etc
  22. Got about 250 hours on my 18 EXCF-450. I've got my suspension dialed in- im a big rider. 1st gear wheelies effortlessly in any situation -as it should. 2nd - 4th gear cant wheelie at all, which is where I need it (mostly 2&3). Its utter shit. My 16 XC-f 350 would wheelie if a light breeze caught the throttle tube in any gear. I ride singletrack/Enduro. I only do practical wheelies to get the front up over logs, small pits, jumps-kickers etc... Dam thing flames out on quick throttle blips. I went down on the front sprocket from 14 to 13- Not much help, but 1st does respond quicker. Looking for advise to get the front end up with a blip and zap. -Praying that the $1000 Vortex ECU isn't the answer. HELP!
  23. Hi guys I have a question I wanna buy sprocket , chain and I choose to go 49-13 I know the size of my chain needs to be 114 (rm 125 2004) but can I choose a standard chain or I need x ring , o ring blablabla...?? Im not doing anything competitive I just go casually in woods and tracks thanks in advance
  24. anyone who has converted a 250 dirtbike to supermoto knows the stock gearing with sprockets and everything sucks for road use, this being my first conversion i had no idea until i actually took it on a street ride on the dirt tires and stock gearing... i havent yet gotten my smaller sprocket but how much will going from the stock 50tooth sprocket to a 43tooth sprocket help for street riding so im not rev limiting the shit out of my bike at 50mph. also debating on going a tooth or 2 bigger on the front... im already stuck with the wr250f model not the wr250r model and ordered rims and everything for it and put mad money into it so anything to help and words of wisdom would be appreciated.
  25. Hey there dudes and dudettes, Got me a pw80 to mess around with and I'm having a problem with it. It idles fine, runs in first pretty decent but as soon as it's shifted into 2nd the acceleration drops. It feels like I have a one speed bike. Any ideas what it could be? I have already done the clutch mod, i'm running 6 ball bearings instead of the standard 12. Thanks!
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