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Found 4 results

  1. Hi Folks! I decided that I am tired of my 06 WR250F having horrible damping (i.e. none at all) and so am going to upgrade the suspension. My questions for you are, 1. Is it worth it, given the age of the bike and cost of the parts, to find old 06-07 YZ250F SSS twin chamber forks and shock and rebuild/upgrade them, or just install a gold valve or similar in my single chamber WR forks? I like the idea of bolting on YZ TC forks and shock, but the cost at this point for them both runs about $500-$600 and they are guaranteed to be clapped out and need a full rebuild/upgrade, just like my WR forks/shock. 2. Race Tech offers a compression gold valve available, but not a rebound gold valve. Can you tell me why this is? I would like both, of course. 3. Will YZ450F components work as well? If so, what year range? 4. Ohlins drop in cartridges look awesome, but front and rear would cost the worth of the bike ;-) Thank you for the help!
  2. Hi guys, I'm working on a shock setup for my mx bike. the valving was recommended to me by racetech but the stack is a bit short and will need a second base plate. Racetech said its okay to run a second base plate but do you all see any problems with having 2 baseplates on this shock setup? I also have a rebound separator valve that I could use, but I'm not sure it would help out. COMP .2x40 (6) .15x26 .2x40 .2x38 .2x36 .25x34 .25x32 .25x30 .25x28 .25x26 .25x24 .25x22 .25x21 GOLD VALVE Reb .2x36 (4) .1x28 .3x36 .3x34 .3x32 .3x30 .3x28 .3x26 .3x24 .3x22 I'm running a 5.2 shock spring and weigh 165lbs.... getting old and racing about C class speed.
  3. Hello all. I recently rebuilt my front forks on my DRZ400S, and added the gold valves. There are lots of good videos that amplify the instructions in the gold valve kits, so I will not attempt to duplicate them. Rather, this article is a list of things that I observed that were not covered in the material I found. The forks are from Showa, and are apparently used on other bikes, so I decided to post it here as well, for the benefit of others that may find this useful. Observations from rebuild and gold valve install on Showa forks
  4. Sportsfans, first a big shoutout to “Virginia Motorad” and “MrDuhfactor” for their excellent youtube videos, and my friend and mentor "Jon" for advice, encouragement, and for fabing a tool for me. The Clymer manual and the instructions from Gold Valve are superb, but nothing beats watching the videos (over and over…ha ha) This post is not a how to do it…the above sources of info are superb. This is, instead, a list of things I learned that were not covered in these sources. I have tried to use the correct terminology for the parts to allow anyone that is also doing this, or refers to the diagram for the parts, can visualize what I am talking about. I will go from big to small. 1. Damper Rod bolt (the bolt in the bottom of the fork with the compression setting adjustment on it): this bolt has the valve and shim stack on it and all of this is solidly held in place by a small nut on the top of the shaft that runs through the centre of the stack. During manufacture that nut is fixed in place by “staking” or mushrooming the top of the shaft threads. On both of mine the staking/mushrooming did hold the nut from backing right off….but the nut was loose and could turn by finger ¾ of a turn. On both of the valve/shimstacks I had about 1mm of play up and down!! Given the extreme tolerances on the shims (0.1mm) I cannot imagine what this did to the fork handling. Anyone pulling their forks apart should check this, even if not revalving or changing the shim stack. If no change is desired but the play is like mine (and like the one in the video) then consider a locktite solution. That valve and stack should not have any play. 2. Rebound damperscrew turns endlessly after reassembly: oh my god, the fork cap is screwed and I will have to get a new one!!! NOPE. This explanation became long enough to merit its own post, so see: 3. Damper bolt removal and installation: I had a friend make me the tool to hold the damper chamber from rotating while loosening and tightening the damper bolt: it is simply a piece of pipe with a bolt head (27mm wide) spot welded on. The bolt head had a 11/16 hole drilled in it and the end of the pipe had holes drilled across it to allow for a screwdriver to be inserted to hold it form rotating. Best technique was to lock the screwdriver into a vice, insert the tool into the fork and then put the cross holes in the tool over the screwdriver and hold the fork horizontal and pressed against the tool to keep engaged. This allowed the other hand to operate the impact gun or torque wrench. For removal of the damper bolt…NOTHING beats the impact gun. I did grind the face of a socket to ensure it fully engaged the limited head on the bottom of the bolt. Photo of tool follows. 4. Damper adjustments: ensure you have the dampers all set to the softest limit before assembly/disassembly: if not you can damage them during the assembly process. Be careful when turning dampers to their limits: they are brass and can shear off…the limits are rather subtle, so get used to the clicker force and quit as soon as it gets hard…don’t reef on it. If unsure if you have hit the limit, back off several clicks and go again with particular attention to the force required…stop as soon as it gets noticeably hard when trying for one more click…..be warned. 5. Don’t cheap out: if you are doing a full disassembly, get the orings, seals and more particularly the upper guide bushing and the lower slide bushing. These latter parts are coated brass bushings, and unless you are disassembling a new bike to revalve, they are worn. The extra cost of replacing these additional parts, compared with the labour to do the disassembly/assembly makes this a no brainer. These parts will be worn, and while they may still be “acceptable” why not replace while this is all apart. Have fun.
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