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Found 37 results

  1. hey guys, Recently acquired a 2004 KTM 250 EXC. I'm looking for more power, better response. I've searched, but can't find an answer. What year heads and CDIs from 250SXs will fit my 2004 250 EXC? thanks for the knowledge.
  2. Hello. I recently bought an 08 crf250r out of Colorado and it's having a lot of problems. The previous owners raced it and installed lots of aftermarket parts but didn't maintain it near as well as they should have. I just put in a high compression cylinder and piston thinking it would fix my compression problem after re shimming twice and figuring out that the rings had been installed wrong and rubbed a groove in my cylinder. I am now thinking I need my head fixed up but I'm on a limited budget. Anyone have ideas on who is good but won't send me into the poor house. Thanks Hayden
  3. I've been doing research over week now. Bought a 04 crf250r for $900 on terms it needed a cam chain. Come to find out the cam chain tension failed and the chain was shot. However there was a surprise. the left cam lobe closes to the cam wheel (in the head) destroyed the heads housing around the valve. Yes destroyed. Chucks of metal were found and the cap above the valve (under the cam lobe) was also destroyed and chewed up. The bike did run before i opened it decently well but did make noise (2nd 3rd kick). I didn't want to blow it up so i torn it apart. Now i have a new cam chain and tension valve cover gasket and flywheel stator (left side engine gasket) also new head is on its way. PROBLEM- Guys at the motorsports store said valves looked good and jug looked fine along with the piston (valves were still in head and he just glanced at them). QUESTION-Do i reuse the old valves in my new head (probably not) so if i order new valves can i use the old springs with the new valves? Last question, since ill have a new head and (if need be valves,springs,locks,seals) what size shim (referring to the small metal circles under the lifters) do i use since it'll be OEM. Please get back with me asap. Thank you!!
  4. So I have an 07 cr 125 fouling plugs before the bike even has a chance to warm up, plugs come out wet and oily on the tip. had both crank seals replaced last season because my main drive side seal blew. While it was split I had a new crank put in, we noticed my cylinder plating was pooched so I sent my cylinder off to be re-plated, put a new piston in the shiny new looking cylinder put the old warped head back on and called it a day. then rode it all season having absolutely no idea about the warped head because I overlooked it when I was excited to put my bike back together and ride. Its now winter, snows on the ground. I recently went to go for a put and fouled a plug before I could get to the end of the street and back. I was also smelling coolant so checked the rad while running the bike, lots of movement and tiny bubbes. Pulled the head off and sure enough it was warped to the point where I could rock it back amd fourth on the mirror and see a small gap... so NOW after I replaced the head my problems persisted and I can still see little bubbles swirling around vigorously in the rad if I rev it with the cap off, I've had boiled it down to my cylinder probably being warped then I found a leaky hose by the exhaust that was dripping coolant onto the outside of the exhaust port. Which brings me to what I think may be an incredibly stupid question, could it just be the loose hose sucking in air that is causing my rad fluid to have small bubbles in it? And maybe im just experiencing increadibly rich jetting now that my head is actually sealed properly? over and out.
  5. Can anyone tell me the physical difference between a 03 & 06 head? I have a 05 and I'm looking to put a 06 on it to try and get away from the valve issues of 05. Long story but I was sent a head from a 06 and it has a hole on the right side which my 05 doesn't I then tried to put an ex valve from my 05 spares kit and it was to big to fit in the stem??? From what I can see of the parts fiche the hole has a cover (metal with a black circle) on it. Have I been ripped off and sold a 02, 03 head? I can't find much info on it but it looks like the extra hole might be for the decomp arm/lever.
  6. This has been an ongoing issue, as I am sure some of you are beginning to notice.. sorry for the somewhat repetitive posts in advance. My valves were out of spec, I was only getting 85-90 PSI of compression. I shimmed my valves to the correct clearance, and I got the compression up to 150 psi. Now after riding my bike for 15-20 minutes, it will start doing the same thing it did before - it will idle super low and eventually bog out. I had the idle adjustment turned up very high, when I gave it a little throttle the idle would kick up for a couple seconds, then it would settle back down to extremely low and bog out. To me this sounds like something with the idle air circ, or jetting. Could something with the valves cause this as well? Want to get a second opinion before I send the head in for the $500 rebuild and still have the same issue. Thank you all again!
  7. I have got the head off my 85 ytm 225 to replace the valve seals and cannot get the rocker pins out. Anyone have any tricks or something I’m not doing right??
  8. I have a drz400s with a +4mm stroker kit. I was running a 4 layer base gasket to lower the compression bit ended up blowing a head gasket anyway from not tightening down the head enough ( did the 34.5 from the factory manual saw on here it was supposed to be 43). Now when the head gasket blew the head warped slightly so I got it resurfaced. When I got it resurfaced the machinest said he had to take .07 inches off which seems like a lot to me. Now with a stroker and that reduction in clearance I'm worried about where the compression ratio is. Has anyone in a similar situation got any insight? Should I be alright with a 4 layer base gasket or am I sitting on a ticking time bomb. Thanks.
  9. I have this spark plug o ring left to install, and I cannot for the life of me figure out where to put it and I don't want to chance it and install it the wrong way. will someone please tell me where this thing goes.
  10. I installed a Cylinder Works 434cc kit a while back that came with all necessary gaskets. I'm now having some head work done and need to replace gaskets. Is the big bore head gasket different from the stock head gasket? What ways can you measure them to know?
  11. My CRF450R was hard to start, so I took it to a shop for Valve inspection They found the valves were way off, and they have now been set to: 222 on Top 2, 179 on Bottom 2 But they warned of a very big problem - the Upper Right Cam Tower bolt is stripped in the threading, and said that would require a new Head replacement They also said the Tensioner has no tension So I am wondering how serious of a problem the Stripped Threading is on the Head, because it seems to be very expensive fix. But they also said when the Cover is on, the bolt cannot escape. Some Question: 1) If I do ride it like this, can the problem get any worse - or has the damage been done and I may as well keep riding until it stops running if an entire head is to be replaced anyways 2) What parts will I exactly need in the replacement - because if I search for CRF450R HEAD, there are multiple parts packages and they are so pricey I want to ensure I get only what I need - seems like I may want to replace Valves too if they are close; and is the Tensioner a part of that package? 3) Should I try to get a Big Bore kit or something, so the large expenditure of time and money at least puts me to a point of better than stock? Thanks in advance - let me know if any pics or anything can help - really a sad day
  12. Wondering if I can reuse the head bolts for this bike or if I have to get new ones every time i rebuild the top end? its a 2008 CRF250R
  13. Hi iv been looking at the forums for a few years and finally decided to make an account. I just took apart my 91 xr200r for the first time because of low compression (60-70psi) and i was scraping off the head gasket and some of it went into the stud/bolt holes. Im worried it will block the oil passage ways. Can anyone tell me how i should go about cleaning these out or can i just leave it as is (does not seem like a good idea). I also have some marks on the cam journals if that's the correct term and should i be worried about this. The surface is still smooth and i cant see it causing any friction. Any help or tips on reassembly or just any tips in general are greatly appreciated,thanks. Here is a diagram of the oil passageways i thought others might find help full .
  14. I'm thinking about using high heat powder coating (rated up to 1200F) to powder coat a XR600 engine. To powdercoat, I will have to bake the side covers / head / cylinder at 450F for 20 min in an oven. Will this warp and permanently damage the head / cylinder? I'm not too worried about the side covers because I can actually use normal low temp powder coat and thus bake them at 375F. But I am worried about the head and cylinder because I will have to get them to 450F. What do you think? Will this warp the cylinder/head? Its an old beat up XR6 that I'm restoring, not to worried about it, but would rather not buy new parts. Thanks.
  15. Brandano


    Ideas of how to get stuck piston out of cylinder? Engine is out of bike. 2000 yz250 2 stroke. Have put oil on top of piston it does leak down and out. Lightly tappend on top of piston with wood and hammer while pulling up on head. Got bolts off, rod looks good and moves well from lifting and putting down block. Can't get piston to budge. Shavings and nice metal on top of piston. Seems tight at one side and not as much on other. Scrapes on cylinder wall. It's about halfway in cylinder. Thanks
  16. So guys, I need some input from someone who has suffered a debilitating head injury, or TBI. A mild concussion doesn't count. TBI is essentially a concussion, but far worse. To put things into perspective, I was in a coma for five days after my motorcycle accident (this was on the street). Am I saying that you need to have gone through the same thing? No. However, I would like some input from someone who has suffered a debilitating injury, maybe just an injury of any kind, and had to make the decision about whether to ride the following year. I'm twenty-one years old, and have raced motocross every summer since I was fourteen. It makes me feel... well, I'm not really sure how to describe it. My life is rather mundane, but when I get on that bike and race, I feel alive and in control for however long I'm riding it. I live in Alaska, by the way, so summer is like five months max. Point is, the injury will not be the hardest thing I've ever had to go through, if I do indeed decide to stay off the dirt bike this summer. The hardest thing, guaranteed, that I will have gone though, is to have stayed off the bike this summer. It is one of the very few things I truly love in life, and I fervently look forward to it every year. I do nothing in the winter. Buuuut, and this is a big but, I'm also not an idiot. My brain injury occurred in very late September of last year. If you all think it's more than just wise, but critical, to stay off the bike this year, just like my doctor thinks (but you know doctors... always over-protective of your physical health, like parents), then I will stay off of it this year. Looking up at that bright sun, experiencing the peak of summer greatness, it will undoubtedly be monumentally difficult to put riding into the back of my mind, but I can do it. What do you think? Thanks!
  17. so i have made template for xr6xx heads - single and dual carb versions. planning to have them water jetted, but unsure what aluminum to use - my thoughts lean toward: 3xxx Series Alloys – (non-heat treatable – with ultimate tensile strength of 16 to 41 ksi) These are the aluminum / manganese alloys (manganese additions ranging from 0.05 to 1.8%) and are of moderate strength, have good corrosion resistance, good formability and are suited for use at elevated temperatures. One of their first uses was pots and pans, and they are the major component today for heat exchangers in vehicles and power plants. Their moderate strength, however, often precludes their consideration for structural applications. These base alloys are welded with 1xxx, 4xxx and 5xxx series filler alloys, dependent on their specific chemistry and particular application and service requirements. but i think the non-heat treatable is a knock esp if you are doing cloverleaf heads that really should be heat treated before surface finishing and machining... so does that point to: 6XXX Series Alloys – (heat treatable – with ultimate tensile strength of 18 to 58 ksi) These are the aluminum / magnesium - silicon alloys (magnesium and silicon additions of around 1.0%) and are found widely throughout the welding fabrication industry, used predominantly in the form of extrusions, and incorporated in many structural components. The addition of magnesium and silicon to aluminum produces a compound of magnesium-silicide, which provides this material its ability to become solution heat treated for improved strength. These alloys are naturally solidification crack sensitive, and for this reason, they should not be arc welded autogenously (without filler material). The addition of adequate amounts of filler material during the arc welding process is essential in order to provide dilution of the base material, thereby preventing the hot cracking problem. They are welded with both 4xxx and 5xxx filler materials, dependent on the application and service requirements. i am not conversant with solution heat treatment. i always thought the al in heads had a fair amount of silicon... so anybody got thoughts of what alloy best to use? i am thinking that maybe this should become a group buy. let me figure out the yield from a sheet of aluminum and the cost of waterjetting and then we can see if this is something TT members want in on. i can't imagine it will cost much - no upcharge, just share the cost of material and jetting - i would think the more we cut, the cheaper it gets per unit. neil
  18. Hello first post on here hopefully this question will be useful to others. Time for new valves on my 2017 yz250f, after shimming the intakes I was only able to get roughly 8-10 hours out them before they zeroed out again leading me to the conclusion the intakes are shot. I've done a bit of research on SS vs Ti and will stick with titanium valves. I'll be buying all my parts online and do all my own work except for having the seats cut. Here's the nitty gritty Kibblewhite titanium intakes, Pro-x, delwest or Wiseco or any other suggestions? I've found reputable sellers on ebay that I trust for most of my parts the pro-x are around 40$ each and the kibblewhites are about 60$ to 70$ each, delwest were 80$ each while the wiseco were 100$ each any suggestions based on price and quality which will be best through experience? I know pro-x is made in the same factory as oem so they can't be that bad?
  19. Hey all, tore into the bike today. Noticed “JAC 29” etched into the back of the head. I am the 2nd owner of 3 years, and contacted the original owner. He stated the bike was original and any work had been done by himself. I took it in for a valve job years ago, just don’t know what that stands for. Anyone know?
  20. Got an old cr80. The cylinder has a scratch towards the bottom 1/3 of the cylinder on one side. Could kind of feel it woth your nail. Any idea ideas instead of getting a new cylinder? Parts are limited.
  21. I’m new here. im doing a build on my 86 cr250 and I was wanting to shave the head for more compression. I was thinking, would it work just to put the head on the cylinder without the gasket and keep shaving it till it touches the piston, and then put the gasket on? What are your thoughts?
  22. So here's my question... My feeler gauge slides in hard at first but once it passes the first part of the feeler gauge, it slides easily while in between the lobe and bucket. It's also hard to take out but easy to slide back and fourth while between the two surfaces. Why is it not even resistance sliding in at the beginning and throughout?
  23. I see a lot of posts suggesting to have your head done by RB Designs and others suggesting buying an RK Tek head. Economics aside (I can factor any cost difference myself), I’m curious if anyone has direct experience on performance differences? I confess not needing to do a squish test and not having to go without a head while I wait for mine to be returned to me are factors, but I’m curious if any perceived performance differences weigh in. Or if either require more or less jetting adjustments? Thanks!
  24. Hi all, i shipped off my 04 crf450r valve head to FastHeads to get it repaired, unfortunately the bill was quite a bit more than i can afford (800$) I'm looking at just buying a used head as long as it passes inspection for the most part. My main question is, can I drop an 07 head on a 04? I've heard the 07's are superior to the 04's just didn't know if i could drop it in. Thanks
  25. Sorry if this is not the right forum to post this, but I've recently started taking apart the top end on my 2008 ktm exc-r 450. I was able to loosen 3 out of the 4 bolts that hold the cylinder head on and when I got to the last one (front right shown in the picture) the inside rounded out. As you can see from the picture its pretty close to the side of the engine so nothing can fit around the outside of it. I tried using a star-head to get a little more grab on the inside of the bolt head but no luck. I'm trying to figure out what my options are before I make anything worse. I've been told I could cut the bolt head off, but if I do wont the threads inside still be holding the cylinder head down?? Maybe a stupid question, since from looking on the oem parts finder it looks like the threads dont start until their into that bottom part of the engine. I've also head of tack welding a bolt on top to remove it, but not sure how hard thatd be to do with such little space. Are there any other tools or tricks to getting this thing out before resorting to those last ditch efforts?
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