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I just bought this bike and it will not crank up, i have tested it for spark and at first I didn’t have any and then I switched some wires around and i had spark but it wasn’t good, i have great compression and i think it has a good spark. I just bought a new spark plug a week ago and noticed that it was already fouled? What causes that? The bike runs well when i bump start it but it will idle for 3 mins and then shut off. It also bogs out but i have cleaned the carb 3 times now?? This is my first 2 stroke and I don’t really know what else to do. help

Gday guys! I’m new to the site, but am stuck and would really love some input! Recently purchased a 2007 YZ250F - insanely cheap, because the previous owners bought it not running and didn’t know enough about bikes to ever get it working. anyway I’ll cut to the chase it hasn’t been ridden in over 12 months and cosmetically is pretty rough. Bloke told me it was seized… I got it home, put a new spark plug, cleaned the air filter, drained the tank, cleaned the peacock and replaced the fuel hose from the tap to the carby, than refilled the bike with premium unleaded. Started second kick with choke on. Sounds reasonable, abit poppy (but the exhaust needs attention where the muffler slips on is very loose - I assumed causing popping) anyway after about 20 seconds the bike dies. I started it straight back up again and gave it some throttle. If I keep the revs up the bike doesn’t stall, it backfires every now and than, and if the revs go to low it tries to stall. I have just taken the carby off, and it will be getting a clean and rebuild with fresh seals and everything. The rubber manifold gasket thing between the carby and head looks pretty perished - should I replace this whilst I’m in there? What is your opinion as to what could be happening?! also have fresh coolant (the radiators were only half full) and oil filter and oil ready to go in the bike, and am planning to double check the valve clearances this week. look forward to a reply!

Okay im not sure if this is a problem or not but it kinda bothers me. I have a 2004 yz250. I had jetting problems with it but I believe I have fixed it (in a way) the stock main jet was 178 and pilot was a 50. Stock needle at 2 clip position. That jetting ran fine for 2 years at 500ft elevation. Earlier this month it seems to sputter and bog at high rpms ans not hit the powerband and it would bog just riding bumpy trails too and hitting hills it would bog BAD! I checked reeds ans they are fine. I repacked the silencer and I checked power valves for carbon build up ans they seemed fine and it all moved good ans smooth. So I bought a JD jetting kit and the pilot jet i have in now is a 45 and it called for the main jet to be 172 and red needle at 3rd position for my elevation. I took it to the trails and it still was bogging at high rpms and riding bumpy trails. So I changed the main jet to a 168 it had in the kit and the top end power was fine after that it hit the powerband and stuff but low end it wasn't great so I moved the clip position from the 3rd to the first at the top to lean it out and it seemed to help. It doesn't bog low end or anything but it seems the first 1/4 throttle it tends to bog just a tad. So my question is how can I fix that little bog and is my jetting okay for what elevation im at? Is it too lean?? It seems to me some other people run their main jet at 172 for 500 ft elevation. Thank you for reading and your responses! I'll be sure to check here every now and then to get the problem fixed.

Hi there, this is my first bike and I'm having a blast learning about it. Took a spill this weekend and one of the wires going into the clutch housing was severed. Not sure what it does or what I need to order to replace it. I'm able to get the bike started with the electric starter (as long as I'm in neutral) and it seems to run fine, so I'm not sure what the impact is yet. Any ideas? I'm a DIY-er with my Wrangler - this is a new world though, so if I need to take it to the shop, I will. Just curious if its something I can easily fix. Thanks in advance!

Hi, hope you guys can recognize the plastics and tank on this bike and let me know. thanks in advance.

Hello all! Looking for anyone whos experienced similar issues or might be able to lead me in the proper direction! I have a 2008 YZ450F the crank went bad so I have done a bottom end rebuild including crank and all bearings. I tested the tranny bench shifting it before resealing the cases. By manipulating the shift forks while turning the shift drum by hand I was able to get the bike to shift into all gears though it was difficult at some times but I assumed it was because the case was apart and I was trying to shift all by hand but again it shifted every gear. So I got the cases all buttoned up and reinstalled the shift shaft and was able to click into one gear or so before it jammed up? I have checked the roller stopper lever and everything I can see seems to be all in order. However the shift lever on the shift cam is not returning back to its “resting position”(ready to shift in another gear) and I cannot get it to shift either direction no matter how much I spin the shaft around trying to get it to click in a gear or shift nothing happens. The shift lever will move almost halfway inbetween gears in one direction but will not move the other way at all. Its as if the shift cam will not rotate and spin the shift drum like something is binding it up. The tranny shafts still spin freely though so no gears are stuck. Im just confused at the fact the bike shifted fine before rebuild and shifted through all the gears when rotating the shift drum and manipulating the forks by hand but will not do anything now that the cases are re sealed. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Not really good with mechanics and working on bikes bc I’m fairly new to them. But lately my bikes handling has felt horrible. It feels like the steering is stiff and it just don’t wanna lean or corner. Also when I first get on it, the handle bars don’t wanna move and I gotta crack it to loosen em up. I don’t think my wheel bearings are bad bc there’s no play. So I was thinking it could be my steering stem bearing. Another thing is that the screws on top of my forks that I’m pretty sure adjust the suspension are adjusted the complete opposite ways (don’t know if that affects anything) Anybody know what could be wrong?

My 2020 crf250r has about 75hrs on it. Got ready to ride it one day and it just didn’t start. Never had any problems in the past. Have washed it many times and have taken good care of it. Iv put a battery check too it and it’s got power. Maybe thinking it’s a fault with the starter button it’s self. Or maybe the wire that connects to the clutch lever.But still cannot get the bike to start. Curious if anyone knows an easy fix or solution to this. Don’t wanna have to bump start every time.

So I picked up this yz a couple of months back and was just wondering because my buddy said he swapped the engine from a newer yz but didn’t remember the year can some 1 help me find out if this is the ig engine or a different year engine,thanks in advance

Im getting a project bike which will be a KLX 140 but it needs a seat and I’ve been looking for a cheap one but all I can find is 110 so is there any difference in the 140 and 110 seats or could I just use a 110?

Hey guys! I’ve been having an issue with my 2005 cr125 lately, mid rpms are very weak, but at high rpms the bike rips. Here’s the story. I bought the bike in October last year, and the bike had a stutter in 1st and 2nd gear and would breakup above half throttle, but it didn’t bother me so I rode it for the rest of the season. Earlier this year I decided to try to chase down the issue. First thing I did was replace the reeds, nothing happened. At the time I had been looking into a lectron carb, so I threw on my friends lectron carb that was on a kx125 to see how it would run. It fixed the odd sputtering, so I decided to buy one myself. Here’s where this new problem started, I put on the new carb, bike starts right up and runs great. Upon first ride, I encountered the problem where my mid range was weak. I richened the carb quite a bit on the metering rod and power jet, and nothing changed. When I threw on my friends carb, I wasn’t paying attention to the rest of the rpm range. So the problem could’ve occurred then as well, but I couldn’t remember. Previous owner used a lectron on it before he sold it with the stock mikuni. What else should I check? This week I’ll put my friends on again and really pay attention to the whole rpm range. -new reeds, clean air filter, and 30hrs on top end (I don’t ride hard) video will be attatched. it may sound like a slipping clutch but you can feel the power increase dramatically from mid to top. https://youtube.com/shorts/A_16P0LayCg?feature=share Thanks.

Hi there I have a brand new 2018 yz 85 and it has not been starting as of late. It will fire up for a second but then when u try to give it some gas it will bog out and stall while in neutral. The spark plugs won't even last a week in my bike is there something i need too and how can i get it to start. Thank you!!

I guess this is kind of a novice question but may as well ask. Does anyone have any little known tips/ secrets you used to get faster offroad/ enduro races. I find that I mainly struggle with confidence in the wide open type stuff (40-45 mph) and cornering. All help is appreciated? thanks.

I have a 1982 RM250 that was given to me needing a new top end. I apologize for the long post this is my first 2 stroke top end rebuild and I have only done a few 4 stroke top end rebuilds. After installing a new wrist pin bearing, piston, ring, carbon fiber reed valves, and a freshly bored and honed cylinder I decided it was time to fire this thing up! And fire it up I did... I kicked over slowly a few times and then gave about two hard kicks and this thing was ?SCREAMING ! It ran for about 15 seconds wide open before it died I am not sure if me holding the kill switch actually killed it or not I was getting ready to yank the plug boot and it died. Since this happened I have found a lot of useful info online about what causes this, from what I gather the "runaway" is caused by a very lean condition that is normally from a gasket or seal leak in your intake system, or cylinder head or base gaskets. I have owned about five 2 strokes in my lifetime but I never experienced a lean condition with any of them other than running low on fuel, and I never before had to replace or had any problems with reed valves since I usually only keep a bike about a year then sell or trade for something else. So I began trying to find the cause of the leak, I knew that I had brand new cylinder base and head gaskets so I checked for cracks in the intake boot and there were none. When I got this bike the top end was already removed and I had a bucket of various parts, hoses, bolts, washers, gaskets and springs. Checking the inventory of my parts with my Clymer manual it seemed that everything was there but I completely missed the need for a Reed block gasket, the manual is very short about a reed block gasket and I overlooked it entirely ?. So I ordered two gaskets because I thought it would give a little extra seal in case the rubber gasket on the intake boot was not sealing properly, so I have one between the cylinder and reed block and one between the reed block and the intake boot. I made up a pressurizing system with some 1.5" pvc, a leak down gauge and a rubber coupling and cap for the exhaust port. I pressured the system with a bicycle hand pump to 5 psi, I found that without the second gasket between the cage and intake boot it did leak quite a bit more than it did with it. While testing the pressure would hold at 5 psi for about an hour before you could notice a drop after an hour the drop is probably equal to about 0.25 psi after 2 hours the drop is around 0.5 psi, so it is still leaking just extremely slowly. I tested with bubbles and was finding a very, very tiny leak you could barely see still on the intake boot side of the reed cage. So I rtv the gasket and there still was a tiny leak. After taking the reed cage assembly apart about 10 times and cleaning and gasketing and still having this tiny leak eventually I also applied rtv on the outer side of the assembly after tightening it down between all of the mating surfaces, after the rtv dried I am not seeing any bubbles any more anywhere on the reed cage assembly or intake boot. However, I am still losing the same amount of pressure about 0.25 psi an hour. Although the pressure loss eventually seems to stop I left the gauge on overnight and lost maybe a 1lb or 1.5lb. I am posting to see if any amount of pressure loss in any time frame is acceptable, or should I have 0 loss before attempting to start? The last thing I want to do is try and start this thing again and have the Runaway, does anyone think I could experience another runaway with that small of a pressure drop in an hour? I have not found anymore leaks with the bubbles so I suppose that could mean that I have a crank seal that may be going bad. With that being said does bad crank seals, exhaust manifold leaks cause this "runaway" condition or would that type of leak just cause the engine to run poorly instead? Also ive read that pulling the choke and or blocking off the intake air will kill the engine and may be the only thing that kills the engine, does pulling the choke always work or not? If my carb is hooked to the air filter box I cannot effectively stop the air due to the way the box is designed, it has two air entry ports, one on the left side of the box and one on the right making it a challenge to block in a timely manner. Can I try starting the bike without the air filter box and maybe just zip tying a piece of filter around the intake side of carb to help prevent any debris getting inside, or will this cause problems? Again sorry for the long post just trying to give as much info as I can so maybe someone can lend me some personal experience/ professional advice to help me decide if this thing is ready to try to start again or not. Thanks.

i was tightening my intake valve and then all of the sudden it was really easy to move and now when I move to nut nothing happens it just spins! I will show picture of the part I might have to replace what is it called and where do I get it?

I need help with my suspension set up, I just got a 2016 kx450f and the guy I got it from said he had it set up for him weighing 200lb. But me being only 140 its been killing me in the breaking bumps and just stiff as hell. I tried messing with everything. I went back to the stock setting for 155lb and it was still really hard. Any suggestion?

Hi guys, a couple of weeks ago the electric starter on my 05 wr250f quit working after working like a charm for a couple of years without any issues. It still started pretty easy kicking it but I put a brand new battery in it to see if that would fix the electric start but that didn't do the trick. I'm decently handy at working on my bike but i don't want to start playing around with the electric start unit/other electrical components so i decided i want to take it to a shop to get fixed up. While its there I was going to ask them to rebuild the carb since its been sitting for a while and could use a rebuild/re-jetting. Anyways, i want to see if anyone else has had a shop do a carb rebuild and/or fix the electric start on their wr250f, and how much $$$ it cost. I'd like to have an idea of how much it cost for you guys so I can have a good gauge on how the shops will price the job. Any shared experiences will be appreciated!!! Thanks

im looking to uncork my 2017 ttr 230 and I need to know if it has a rev limiter stock or if i have to buy an aftermarket one. Thanks.

Help I can get 0.20 in my intake shims on both sides is this bad ? Do i need change then or thay fine? It's a crf 450 05. What do I need to do if enything

I just picked up a 2008 ttr110. It had no battery, no key, no starter, anything that was extra and wasnt needed, stripping it bare. I was popping wheelies, slipped and the bike fell. Not a bad fall, but when i got up and drove off, only neutral, first, and second gear were available. When your in second and go to shift it feels like your in forth, where you cant shift up. The bike is semi, And i need help ASAP before i overpay to get it fixed (only place near me charges 89$ an hour) or what i need to fix it. If i have to, i will open up the engine.

So today i was running my 2008 Rmz 450 and out the crank case over flow oil started coming out but it seemed to me to be a light brownish color. I drained the oil and the oil was a light brown. i dont know if it could be coolant in the oil i have never experienced it. If it is what should i check first?

Location: Spain - Although I travel to the US often. Dirtbike prices aren't that much different. Weight: 210 pounds/95kg - Have lost 110 pounds/50kg (Random but I feel happy about it since I weighed over 320 pounds) Height: 6 feet 4/2 meters Riding experience: I'm 18 now but used to ride at 10 with a mini Dirt bike. Haven't got a lot of experience and kind of forgot the clutch system but I'm sure I'll pick it up straight away. Was so fun. Riding Area: Mainly around Mud/Mud jumps and Forests. Budget: Would like to spend less than 2k$

I have a 1990 Suzuki 250 RMX I have just got done with a rebuild after sitting for 2years. i have replaced the stator and ignition coil. the problem this still stumps me I can turn the bike over with a drill and I get a 1/4 inch blue spark but if I try to kick it I get nothing even holding the wire with bare hands . The only thing i haven't replaced is the cdi box and wiring harness from what i can gather either the stator is out of time, bad wires ,or cdi box hopefully someone knows more than me i would rather not drop the almost $500 on a new cdi if that isn't the problem. Hopefully i cant get the info i need thanks

Hey guys I'm new to this site. I was wondering if you guys could help me out With my 2005 crf150f. I was wondering if there is an electric start kit for the bike. Is it possible to have electric start and kick-start at the same time? that would be preferable. if anything I need to try to make my bike electric start. I know the crf230f has a lot of the same Parts as the 150f, but could an electric start from 230f be placed into a 150f. I plan on making my 150f street legal and electric start would be nice to have for a daily driver. For now while I wait to accumulate answers, I will be buying a dual sport kit from tusk and setting that up. I hear, however, I might need a stator swap. is this true? does somebody have a link to a stator I can use? thanks for your help in advance guys.

My 2000 Suzuki 50jr was making a clunking sound and quit. Got a compression gauge was able to only get 30 psi. Here is a pic of piston what's going on here. Checked the rod has slack side to side where the piston came off, does not feel like up and down is bad for slack. Was going to rebuild top end but not sure now what are the thoughts about crank bad? The noise was like a popping sound only under load pick up rear tire no noise. My son starts to ride the popping sound returns. New chain front and rear sprocket. Would the piston make that sound only when under load or would it make popping sound all the time, just trying to narrow it down. Need help my son ready to ride his first dirt bike