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Found 9 results

  1. I’ll try and keep this simple not drawn out, it’s a KTM, 2014 300xc. It idles great when you start it bud if you rev it up it takes it a while to decrease back down to idle. (1-2 sec) when you put it in gear the bike runs as should. Except when I pull in the clutch the revs increase so much it’s hard to shift into gear. (If im standing still) same if I’m riding and I want to pause and take a break, I pull in the clutch and it revs to the moon. It has a recluse clutch in it.
  2. I recently picked up a 2004 cr85 with a fresh top end, v force reed petals, new crankshaft, and full gasket kit. I just installed a new air filter aswell. The bike seems to be in good running condition except for the fact that when it idles it will idle very high, but rarely it will idle normally by itself but usually i will have to let out the clutch slowly untill it almost dies then pull it back in quick then it will idle fine untill i hit the throttle again. Anybody know what the issue is??? Thanks
  3. Ok, I idolize, worship the new 2018 YZ450F (new for me because I bought it late in the year). Haven't had any starting issues or had to use the new starter plunger until the winter temperatures crept in. I keep it in an off and on heated garage, but in the morning it's cold, and would not start so easily anymore as it did in the summer, where I never before had to use the starter circuit. The F.S.M says to push the plunger all the way in, then hit the starter, and let the engine run/rev at 3000-5000rpm!!! for 1-2 minutes. Then, your supposed to operate the throttle, as the chop throttle direction is supposed to kick the plunger back out to its N.O.T. position. I did exactly this, but, when I operate the throttle, the throttle close direction DOESN'T kick the plunger back out. The engine was revving at about 3100rpm for only about 40 seconds, when, to my dismay, I looked down at the engine & exhaust pipe; the exhaust pipe exiting the cylinder port was glowing so hot I swear it was almost molten! Screaming inside my head, I quickly grabbed a pair of long slip joint pliers to pull the plunger back out (or else I'd no doubt brand myself on the glowing exhaust), and the motor rpm dropped to a more conventional warm/idle up speed. I then had to accelerate the water pump briefly, then cut the engine. I waited a few seconds, and started it up again, and varied the throttle slightly. I repeated this a few times in order to cycle the motor, and safely remove the heat conduction thru the cylinder head. My YZ450F runs great, post incident, and has more power than ever now. My only issue is now I have to always have a pair of pliers when cold starting the powerhouse, because the throttle and starter plunger still don't communicate. I DON'T let it run for more than like 15 seconds on fast idle anymore. My question is, WHY did the pipe heat up so much if that is how long it's recommended to fast idle, AND does anyone else have this issue with their starter plunger sticking, or had their pipe heat up orange hot? I went to the dealership to correspond with the mechanics there and no one was able to give me any information. Please, ONLY 2018+ YZ450F owners need reply on this thread, as it is a BRAND NEW starting device on a fuel injected engine for Yamaha, so other instances or experiences will not apply.
  4. Just picked up an 06 drz400sm with 4K miles. It's bone stock and was running great but the other day it started idling a little high. Now the idle is just way too high and I tried using the idle adjustment knob but it didn't do anything. The idle is so high I actually rode it home using only the clutch and no gas. I have a full fmf system I haven't put on yet since I need to order the jet kit which will probably help the problem but is there anything else in the meantime to fix this?
  5. Hi all. Thanks for looking. Finally registered after all these years of viewing. I am at my wits end with my sons PW50. It starts and idle's fine, switch it to run and it rev's out of control. I have 2 Pw's and so have had the opportunity to swap parts off my perfectly running one. I have so far replaced with new, the left and right crank seals, carb, 2 x Gaskets on the inlet manifold and reeds. Re-bore and piston and rings with gaskets and a spark plug. I have Disconnected the kill switch, swapped the new carb with the perfectly running pw50 one. None of the above has changed anything. Neither has Running it with the exhaust on or off, or the air box connected or not. It still revvs out. The only thing i can think of is the main engine gasket, which means splitting the case.... Any ideas would be massively appreciated. Best Regards.
  6. Hi, I'm new here, I've been searching around here learning things for the last week and though I'd join. I got an 84 xr350 (dual carb) not running for $500 aud (380 usd). Apparently it'd been sitting for 4 years so I took off the carbie and gave it a clean since it was completely gummed up with old fuel I did notice that the primary carb wasn't returning fully and the spring was a little soft. I found that it didn't spark and cleaned up all of the connections with sand paper and got that working. Yesterday I managed to kick it over and get it started. It was a little rough at first, only just idling then over a minute it slowly revved up and was idling fairly high. When I touched the throttle it revved up a lot and stayed there I shut it off then because I had to go to work. Now today it started up after a few kicks and revved up again, I turned the idle screw so it'd idle lower and it worked a little. I then used my fingers to close the throttle manually on the carb. When I did that it settled right down, down enough for it to stall. I re-set the idle needle and made sure the throttle was closed and it started up and idled really nicely. I decided to actuate the throttle by hand directly on the carb and when I did it sounded like it was alright then I did it again and got some exhaust pops and sounded rather lean. I closed the throttle all the way but it was stuck idling high. That's as far as I got, I feel like I might have to replace the throttle return spring, but I might also have an air leak. It's really eager to rev up and is pretty unstable. This is my first bike so I'm not exactly a master but I kinda know a few things, mainly from RC cars and full size cars. Am I on the right track? Does anyone with more experience and the time to read this essay know what's up?
  7. 1985 yz250 at 10,000-12,000 feet Trying to figure out why my bike is running rich at 10,000 feet with all my jets replaced. Ill give you my jetting specs and the stock specs. Im thinking its the reed valves but some people think its crazy that the bikes main jets and everything is so low but maybe theyre used to a different carb with less sensitivity. Also I just did a top end on it and everything looks good. havent peaked at the reed valves though. main-230 stock 290 pilot-46 stock 60 needle clip position with stock needle- top clip stock is 2nd clip position running rich and fouling plugs every ride. REED VALVES?
  8. Ok so i put my rims and tires on for my supermoto conversion and it looks bad ass, i ordered a high out put stator to get rid of the problem i had with the baja designs light kit, so im installing it tonight, im curious as to whether or not i will need a new battery or special kind of battery for the new stator. its a trail tech high out put stator for my 2013 wr250f. i mean i guess ill find out tonight after i install it. i bought a new battery anyway that hopefully works out ok with no problems. but just curious if anybody else has experience with this.
  9. I want to know which headlight to buy to increase the brightness and quality of my headlight. This is my configuration. I just upgraded to a RickyStator dual stator. The previous owner installed a Baja Designs dual sport kit. I successfully installed the stator, the DC system works great working my turn signals, and tail light. As for the AC circuit, I wired the BD Headlight direct to the stock green (ground) and blue (hot AC) wires, and it works. In order to get the high low beam working, I have now ordered a relay switch to allow the light to go high beam and low beam. I've read that I can use a 100 w lamp now, but I don't know if this is halogen, LED, or whatever. I'd really like to know what you recommend.
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