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Found 12 results

  1. Have had my Xr200r for a few years been running perfect except for regular stuff like replacing the chain, air filter, carb clean, spark plug, and oil change. The other day I took her out and just immediately was bogging out and I thought it maybe wasn't warmed up so I just kept playing with the carb and it'd do good but then back to no power and I didn't even think I'd get it home, but I did and before I even kicked it again I cleaned the carb and did the oil and tried to start it and nothing at all, yesterday I replaced the spark plug and still nothing, someone help me out its my daily! Haha
  2. Hey forum, :Just picked up a Honda 1979 XR185 for 300$ and I got some work on my hands, I'm looking for some advice on one of the many problems. The carb needs a rebuild or replacement, I'm not sure if its better: Extract the pilot jet the broke off from previous owner, purchase a rebuild kit, and rebuild. Or buy a cost affective Chinese carb that fits... My question is which is more cost affective, and if I did go the Chinese route would the carb work correctly with this year? I live in Canada so shipping will be expensive. thanks guys!
  3. Hello to all. I just recently bought an XR4 (1st bike ). About a month after I bought it and having already spent some money on the electronics and some simple stuff, I decided to change oil + filter. The guy who sold it to me told me that he had changed the oil about a month before he selling it to me, and according to the oil level readings I figured I was fine up untill the moment I decided to change it. So, for starters, I drain the oil and I only get smth like 200ml of BLACK oil out of the frame, the crankcase AND the oil filter case. Did not look good, yet there was something in there, so i figured I would go on an see if everything is still ok after I was finished with the oil change (everything was running smoothly, even with the few oil the monster had inside it, no smoke, no weird sounds). So, I am about to put the filter case in place and BOOM, the big bolt broke before even fingertight place... I was so frustrated, yet I managed to take it out easily and put everything back to it's place. So, I go on and insert ~1.9lt of motul 5100 10w40 oil, I start the engine let it idle for like 5 mins, take it for a walk to run through the gears, but still get a low reading on the dipstick. It's like I have to do some special ritual to actually get a "proper" reading out of it. On TOP of that, I now have a bunch of white smoke comming out of my exhaust at high revs when hot (not sure if it's there when cold aswell). Hope I'm not going for a top end rebuild, since the white smoke was not there before changing the oil... Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, please excuse my newbieness. ps: I wanna thank the forum for the endless help provided on many thoughts and discussions so far
  4. Recent purchase of a 1986 xr250r and it leaks gas out of the drain tube on the carb but stops once the bike is warmed up was going to order a carb kit, but I think it's a float issue?
  5. Hello everybody. I have a 1973 xr75 that I’m trying to get running. It has no spark, the coil is new and its reading a primary ohms of 00.7 which seems to be at spec. the spec says “0.576-0.704” And then the secondary reads 7.78. The problem I’m having is mainly with the stator. I’m not sure if the specifications of “0.576-0.704” also applies to the stator. So with the flywheel on and the points open, I put the black Multi meter wire on the stater plate and the red in the wire fitting coming out of the stater, with the ohms set the 200. Its giving me a reading of 02.5-02.7. Not really sure what this means. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Its the first time Im doing a multimeter test on a motorcycle to figure out the no spark issue, and it’s great to be working on this old project again! thanks, Tyler
  6. Hi thumpertalk, recently picked up a weird new project, always wanted an xr650r and got this one at a price I could afford.... that being said it’s had some very strange modifications. The motor is stock besides the Mikuni tm40 carb and the odd radiator setup. Previous owner had his way with the body, kindoff a shame, but cool in a mad max way. The bike had been sitting for a year when I bought it but started up fairly easily and idled well, when I checked the oil after it has idled for 5-10 minutes it was milky white, no smoke from the exhaust and ran fine. Considering it starts easily and there’s no smoke, I assumed it was the water pump seal. Installed the new water pump with proper grease, left the drain bolt open and proceeded to flush the cooling system with a garden hose. Flushed normally for about a minute then I noticed water coming out of my crankcase breather tube, also cracked the oil drain bolt and water came out. Did I flush it too hard ? Seems like a bigger issue than that, previous owner said the head gasket is fairly new but who knows. Anyone have a similar experience ? Can’t find any info online and I would love to fix the bike actually ride it. Thanks in advance, Elijah PS (it’s street legal and I have a plate!)
  7. Greetings all, I'm in the process of getting a new to me 1984 Honda xr350r to run right. I've done a bunch of reading about these dual carb'd beasts and hopefully someone with experience can shed some light: I live at about 5400ft elevation (Boulder, CO) and most of my riding will be done between 5000-10000ft elevation. Likely more like 5300-9000. As is well known, these bikes were jetted quite lean from the factory with a #28 pilot jet and a #110 primary jet and a #105 secondary jet (in the second carb). My bike has been rejetted as per the factory specified recommendations from the service manual to accomidate this new altitude and now it's got #28 pilot, #105 primary and #100 secondary jets. I started it up and it ran pretty well with this jetting, however the general wisdom on this model is that it will run extremely hot at the factory recommended jetting. Now the conventional wisdom seems to be that most owners rejet this bike to a #48 pilot, a #130 primary, and a #110 secondary. I bought these new jets and put them into the bike, however when I started it up it was very hard to start (10th/20th kick start on new jetting vs 2nd-3rd kick start on the leaner jetting). The bike also now runs quite poorly with hesitation and sputtering and an overall sense of being too rich. This was all done at 5300ft. My question is, does anyone here have experience jetting these dual carb xr350's for the colorado rockies? If so, and you got it to run well, what were the jets you ended up using? I'm sure there is a sweet spot between performance and heat management and I'm hoping to be able to find it. Thanks for any help!
  8. I’m 5’9 and 120 pounds, the only bike I’ve ever ridden was my 01 XR100 for a year. Loved that bike but I need something a bit bigger and more power. I’ve never ridden a 2 stroke but I love the idea of getting one, I’m thinking either a 125 2 stroke or 250 4 stroke. Please tell me if either of these would be good or if I should get something else thanks
  9. I'm very new to this forum. I recently bought a 1987 XR250R. The bike is absolutely beautiful- maybe 25hrs total on machine (likely less...). It is not perfect however, there is a blem in the top of the seat. The blem is a small "L" shaped cut that is less that size of a quarter. I have been looking for a new seat cover. I would like an OEM Honda cover that is exactly like original (blue with XR250R stamped in white on sides as it came from factory). Probably no surprise to many, I'm having an impossible time finding one. I can find many that will work that are aftermarket (ie. Moose Racing, etc...), but can't find a new OEM one anywhere. I do realize the bike is a 1987 and that OEM for this machine is going to be harder to find given that it's now 2017. I have looked at used seats but the ones I have found are not nice enough to put on the bike. Does anyone have any ideas? Suggestions? Note: The blem is likely from the corner of something sharp (ie. piece of metal- maybe small toolbox corner that was sat on top of seat or something of that nature). The seams are all approximated. Seat foam underneath is perfect. Previous owner has put a bit of glue down underneath to hold seams together in an attempt to prevent further tearing / damage. However, since the bike was only one of many in his collection, he did not feel urgent need to fix it. I'd like to get it rectified before riding season resumes here in the North Country of Northern NY. Here's a pic of my bike. If you see how nice it is, you'll likely understand why I'd want to get seat back to 100%. Thanks in advance for any help / suggestions.
  10. Have had my Xr200r for a few years been running perfect except for regular stuff like replacing the chain, air filter, carb clean, spark plug, and oil change. The other day I took her out and just immediately was bogging out and I thought it maybe wasn't warmed up so I just kept playing with the carb and it'd do good but then back to no power and I didn't even think I'd get it home, but I did and before I even kicked it again I cleaned the carb and did the oil and tried to start it and nothing at all, yesterday I replaced the spark plug and still nothing, someone help me out its my daily! Haha
  11. Ok folks, I've read forum after forum asking this same type of question without any definite answers. I'll try to phrase the question specific to my case. I have a 1995 Honda XR600. I need a new rear wheel (p/n 42650-MAG-305). In the forum's I've read that the Honda XR650L rear wheel isn't interchangeable due to the size of the axle, which in turn would point to bearings, collar and possibly other parts. The forum's have also stated detailed information such as the diameter of the axle, ID and OD of the bearings, the different size of the brake caliper. This information supposedly came from microfiche. I've seen references that the XR650L rear wheels (p/n 42650-MY6-326) are interchangealbe from years 93 - 07. These wheels are abundant on eBay. The XR600R wheels are non existent except 1980's models. Finally my questions. Where can I find definite information regarding the sizes of the various parts for the wheel assemblies ? If the sizes of the inner workings are different, could I canabalize the inner workings from my 600R and fit them to a 650L ? This would also be dependent on the brake caliper dimensions, OD diameters of bearings, and possibly bolt hole patterns of the sprockets and caliper. Thank you in advance for your knowledge and information on this subject.
  12. Hey guys, so i was thinking of buying a set of foot pegs of ebay for my 2015 XR, they seem aftermarket, i was wondering if anyone has ever tried them? Its very hard to find foot pegs for honda XR. These are about 33$ on ebay.
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