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Found 12 results

  1. I have a recently rebuilt rmz270. Cylinder works bb kit with stage 2 Hotcams. All new stock valve train. Valves, guides, springs, everything. Shimmed. New spark plug. Running MX4 Renegade fuel with stock rich coupler. Bike is amazing. Pulls much longer and harder in every gear. My only issue is I’m having trouble figuring out is, After I’ve ran the bike and it gets up to running temp, it basically wants to flame out if I come to a dead stop in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Thought I didn’t have the clutch adjusted right and I replaced the plates, steels and fibers, but nothing helped. So now I’m thinking it’s fuel related or mapping issue like it needs to be richer still. But then again if I do the same scenario but I put the bike in neutral then it will sit there and idle and won’t flame out while it’s already hot. Needing some advice or help. Thanks
  2. When the instructions said: "Occasionally on XR 80/100 models the rocker box may need ground to clear the cam lobes" (sic) I heard: "Get out the dremel, you will definitely need to grind some stuff" On the right side, I only had to grind down the "fin edge" part where the cam could hit on the front of the rocker box. On the left side, I had to do a little on the front and the back as well, I think including a bit of the rocker arm itself. I'm not saying get out the grinder immediately, your mileage may vary... but when putting them in, tighten the cam bolts like normal, hand tighten the cam sprocket bolts, then slowly turn the motor over. When you hear a click, and it doesn't want to turn any more, get out the flashlight, slowly turn the motor back and forth, to see which cam lobe is hitting and where; then back off, remove cam sprocket bolts, and put safety wire through one hole (you don't have to remove the sprocket from the chain that way). Then remove the rocker box like normal, loosening in the usual pattern. Take off, dremel what you think you need to, clean very well, put back, repeat. Always check timing, it's easy to be off a tooth. If you find the rocker box sometimes is "picky" about sitting totally flush, and all the shimmy-shaking you're doing doesn't seem to help it want to be "totally cool", and flat and proper... I found that sometimes those metal dowels are harder to put in one side than another. One side might slide into the rocker box easily, but not into the head very easily. So put that dowel into the trouble side first, while you have room to shimmy it in all by itself. Then when trying to press stuff together, it will be more easygoing in fitting the dowel in nicely. That's the big alignment woe you're experiencing, is those dowels wanting everything lined up perfectly, sometimes they get too picky on one side. Good luck!
  3. Im planning on adding some power to my 15 rmz250. The idea so far is High compression piston(not super high still want the option to run 91oct), and hot cams, and full exhaust, and getting it re-tuned on dyno. Im just wondering if anyone has had success making these motors faster how they did it.
  4. Any thoughts or experience with this 434 big bore kit with hotcams? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/232438817365?chn=ps&dispItem=1 -Charles
  5. Hi All, This is first time I have ever used a forum, thought I would give it a try to see if anyone else has come across this. I know it's becoming quite an old bike now the 426 range, but I never had the opportunity to own one until now. I had some issues starting it (as everyone who doesn't weigh more than 14 stone) so I brought a Hotcam from the USA. Fitted it no probs, until it came to running it up. Now it will not throttle up. I'm tempted to throw the old cam back in it to see what it does. It's great at starting now throttle it a couple of time and then kick, but open the throttle slowly or fast and it wont rev past about 3000 rpm (estimated). I'm a BMW bike mechanic, So I'm pretty clued up on this. I have checked the valve timing twice, and the carb just incase it is because I left it for 6 months, valve clearances are all spot on and re-shimmed but still feels odd, like the ignition trimming is retarded. Throttle it and it makes that horrible induction roar could also be lean mixture or air leak. Obviously I have checked all of these, except putting the old can back in it (which is probably a good option) But I just don't want to. I like being 9 stone and able to kick a 426! Any help would be amazing please guys! Thanks in advance
  6. I currently have a 2015 DRZ400S with 5k miles on it. I have the 39mm FCR carb installed, the airbox mod, and the MRD exhaust. I am looking to do the big bore kit with a set of hot cams to probably finish off the mods that I plan to do on the bike. My question is, with this bike at this mileage, is it necessary to replace or change anything else when doing a BB kit and cams? or is the bike still new enough and low mileage to get away with just bolting the kit and cams on? I just want to do it safely without risking anything, but also do not want to waste money on things I dont need. Thanks in advance for the input!
  7. Have anyone used wiseco center intake valve with the four rest beginning OEM? How does it turn out in terms of power and reliability?
  8. Hello tt members I'm not new but I'm new to posting had account for I would say I'm well over 2 years anyways I have a 2011 rmz450 and looking to and alil more hp👍 or speed to it so I currently have a full fmf 4.1 to mega bomb rct pipe on it and trust me sounds great so my first thing I want to do to engine is hot cams stage 2 now I here it adds more mid-top end power I want to know have anybody had this done to thier bike or similar and want to know does it make a big noticeable difference and next I want to add a pc5 and also wanted to know if this make a good difference I know alot of people say Suzuki s have like the slowest 450's but I see that it has potential to be faster than what it is thank you so much all the advice would be great
  9. Hey everyone.... sooooo this is what happened today, I was taking off the valve cover to install a stage one hot cam when one of the long 8mm head bolts snapped off at the bottom of the cylinder(pic below) after inspecting the piston and thinking how hard it would be to drill out the broken bolt Im thinking I should just get a new cylinder and piston. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think I appreciate any opinions!
  10. I need to know if i buy the stage 1 camshaft if I'll need to take the autodecompressor off the old OEM camshaft and install it on the new cam. Or if I can just put the cam in without it and if I do that how?
  11. I recently purchased this bike about 3 months ago and have put about 30 hours on it. I have noticed that it has had a pretty considerable amount of valve noise, and I had issues starting at about 10 hours adjusted the valves and found the timing chain had jumped or been installed wrong so it was put back in time as well. It ran for approximately 10 minuits before jumping time again so it was put back in the shop and had a new tensioner and chain installed and haven’t had any issues since and it has preformed flawlessly, however the valves seam quite loud is there any reason to be concerned or are these valve trains just loud. (My first 450 as well so it may be a common thing among them and I may just not be used to it.) thanks, bronco boy
  12. I’m having an issue of my cam chain jumping time everytime I go to turn the engine over 2 times as stated in the manual. I’ve counted 14 pins between my marks and the cams start out in the correct position. It seems as if around 1 to 1 and a half turns it just slips and then my timing is all out of wack. I install My chain tensioner and reset it everytime I’ve tried. Getting aggravated maybe iM missing something. Any help would be appreciated. Bike is 2008 rmz450 , oh and pros and cons of manual cam chain tensioner? I was thinking that may be the problem here? Idk. Help!
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