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Found 15 results

  1. Has anyone installed and used a Checkpoint impeller? I see dirt rider had an article about them and I've been curious about them. I've been having overheating problems recently and after spending well over $200 on brand new radiators I've discovered the radiators weren't the problem. So I bought new piston rings since they were out of spec (supposed to be like .15 and they were .5) and then thought about buying one of these aluminum impellers to help the problem instead of keeping the flimsy plastic one. I've read mixed reviews about them. Has anyone had any luck with them or is it basically just paying for the same overheating problems to happen?
  2. Hi all, Looking at an '09 FE570; it's a long way from me but it's what I'm looking for & I'm willing to travel for it. Having a tough time determining if it's an 'S' model (street legal from the factory). In Georgia, it has to be deemed as such from the factory or the DMV folks won't even think about it. Running the VIN, it only shows as an FE570, no other designation. I know that my 2016 Husky FE350 is an 's', but the 2017's all got the 's' designation dropped because ALL offload Husky FE's are now street-legal. Anyone got any guidance? First time Husky / Berg owner here...thanks in advance!
  3. Hey guys, My mechanic says my crank rod bearing is bad on my 2013 Husaberg TE 250. I'm browsing http://www.hotrodsproducts.com/ProductInfo.aspx?item_id=5626 and I see this kit that is compatible with 2008 - 2011 KTM 250 EXC BIKE,2008 - 2011 KTM 250 MXC BIKE,2008 - 2014 KTM 250 XC BIKE,2008 - 2014 KTM 250 XC-W BIKE Is that compatible with my bike? Let me know, thanks!
  4. Hi Guys. I'm in the market for a different bike as mine isn't cutting it for me anymore. I have a 2010 KTM 250 XC and have the opportunity to buy a damn near brand new 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. I've heard a lot of mixed things about the 350, and was wondering what the owners of them have to say about them. I've read a lot about different years but haven't heard much of anything about the 2014. Can someone help me out?
  5. Like the title asks, will a 2014 Husaberg FE350 Clutch & Brake Levers Fit on a 2014 KTM 350 XC-F? I found a great deal on some MSR front brake and clutch levers and was wondering if they would fit on the KTM, as Husaberg and KTM are virtually identical. Thanks
  6. Going to start this off by saying that I am looking for a 300 2 stroke. But I am stuck, as some of you know 2010+ ktm's are still not cheap. There is a 2012 Husaberg up for sale and I tried to do some research but could hardly find anything information about the te300. If anyone can tell me the differences between a 2010+ ktm's and 2012 Husaberg that would be a huge help. Another problem I might have is finding parts for a Husaberg in Victoria, Aus. There is a ktm dealer about 20km away from me but nothing about Husaberg (I know they are under a different name now) Any help would be great Cheers Anthony
  7. So I’m doing some fixing on my 2001 CR 250 R. I’m going through all the issues on the off-season trying to freshen up the bike for this spring. I have watched multiple videos of people repairing radiators that were pretty bent up. Mine is slightly worse than any I’ve seen repaired, it does not leak and does not overheat (haven’t rode it in the blazing summer heat but 60-70 degrees it was fine) I guess I’m wondering has anyone repaired a crinkled up radiator successfully and did it work with no leaks or is repairing something this dented up going to have to be took to a shop? I’m basically just wanting to get it as good as possible without having to put more money in it or take it to a shop and or replace them which is inevitably going to need to be done at some point. thanks
  8. Hello friends, My buddy recently invited me on a ride, and I brought my GoPro along. He has lots of dirt bikes, and we took the YZ426 and the Husaberg FE450 on this particular trail ride. It was a lot of fun and we were both impressed with the Husaberg in all regards. We did several "races" (more drag style) during the ride, and the results were the same every time, even if we swapped riders: the YZ pulls ahead of the FE450 through the gears, but the FE450 tops out faster in 5th gear than the YZ, and still has 6th gear left over. But they are very close...the FE is just so sweet in every possible way.
  9. As I was inspecting my new-to-me bike that I just purchased, I noticed there is a grove on the back side of my front brake rotor that goes completely around it, and you can feel it with your finger nail. I have noticed some poor performance, but I figured it was because of the new pads that the previous owner installed just before I bought it hadn't seated yet. However, I've ridden a couple times and it doesn't seem to get much better, if any better at all. Is that enough to explain why when I pull in the brake as hard as I can, it only slows me down a little, instead of going into a stoppie and over the bars (as I wish it would)? Should I look into buying a brand new rotor? I have no pictures of it, I'll try to post some when I can.
  10. I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. My 2010 KTM 250 XC won't stop peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I've used 3 different radiator caps (two of the oem 1.8 bar caps and one CV4 2.0 bar) and it still continues to pee coolant as soon as the bike starts up. I just recently bought and installed brand new radiators [GPI on eBay for $88 (the seem fine just the welds are a bit crappy and you can see inside of the tubes where the metal from the welds drooped down but there are no blocks)] and silicone hoses (profactory hoses) thinking they were the problem since the old radiators were bent in like bananas. To my dismay that was apparently not the issue. I've had everything apart and looked at. Has brand new base gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, and radiator hoses. I've bled the radiators like the manual says and there are no bubbles like air leaking into the system or being in the system. The jetting is also perfect. The only thing I haven't changed out is the oem impeller in the water pump but it looks to be in great condition. Any ideas on how I can fix this problem before it gets worse? Also, has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to fix it? I ride it in mostly tight 0-10 mph trails and also some 10-20 mph trails.
  11. Hey guys, I was hoping some of you could help me out. Recently my bike (2010 KTM 250 XC) started overheating a lot. As soon as it got up to temperature it would start peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I changed out the stock 1.8 radiator cap for a CV4 2.0 radiator cap. Still continued to pee it out. I went through and checked the head and cylinder to see if they were warped. They are not and I also changed the base gaskets and head gaskets. Still continued to pee out. I bought and swapped out new over-sized radiators, new silicone hoses, and a new billet aluminum water pump impeller. Flushed the system and filled it with Engine Ice antifreeze at about 1/4" above the fins. It still continues to pee out. I've heard different things about how the reeds could be causing it and also my jetting could. My jetting is set up perfectly for my weather and where I ride, and my reeds looked fine on inspection. The only thing I have not checked is my clutch pack. It has some chatter and when the bike is cold it shifts pretty hardly into first gear on the first initial take off. In fact it shifts so hard it lurches forward and wants to die and I have to give it a little throttle or it will. (Also, if the bike is in gear on the trail and I pull in the clutch and try to hit the e-start the clutch doesn't engage until I give it a little throttle). I run what the manual recommends for oil (Motorex 15w-50) and at the right amount. I also changed it about 2 hours ago. Since that is the only part of this bike I haven't really looked at I was just wondering since all of that other stuff didn't seem to work, could my clutch be causing the overheating issue?
  12. Hello all, I am a relative noob to dirt bikes. I purchased a 2004 FE550 Husaberg last August. I have done a few things to it but nothing drastic. 2 weeks ago I went to Death Valley with friends. We rode a couple days and on the final day I started having trouble with my bike cutting out in first gear. It is kinda like its in too high of a gear- it sorta bogs and then just stops. -It seemed at first like a clutch issue, I thought there was some thing not disengaging in the clutch but when I hold the clutch lever in no bog or problem in first (I realized this after rebuilding and bleeding the master cylinder). -I realized after all that that it was bogging a bit in the first 1/4 turn of the throttle even in neutral. I could get going if I really revved the bike but going slow in first would kill the bike. -I have torn apart and reinstalled the carb 4 times, cleaned in the sonic cleaner, checked the jets, put the slide in backwards (fixed), "adjusted the float" which was a BIG mistake because I did it the way I do my kids CRF80 which turned out to be a disaster. -The throttle position sensor has a broken wire so I have unplugged it since reading many posts that this is not critical to have on a carburated bike. Finally got the bike to start again this morning. I STILL have the bogging issue in first gear. I'm supposed to be going with the kids and girlfriend to Ocatillo Wells next weekend. The only guy that used to work on 'bergs in my area retired recently and every shop around here is super busy with spring fever bikes people are getting going for the nice weather. If Dad's gonna fix this its gonna have to be on my own. Anyone known on the central coast of California that knows how to work on these please have them contact me. I'm near Santa Cruz. Thanks
  13. Howdy, I'll start off saying that my question is actually regarding a 2012 Husaberg TE250 but since they have virtually the same engine, I figured there would be more KTM 250 XCW owners that have encountered this problem. I got home yesterday from a race and went to start the bike up via kick. But as I pushed the lever down I could hear the electric start gears turning. Nothing sounds like it is grinding, just gears that are turning that shouldn't be turning. Also, immediately after my race I went to start the bike with the electric start and it definitely took a few extra turns of the motor to get running. It sounded more 'slappy' and rattly than normal as I held the start button down, but I was wiped out by that point so I can't be completely sure of what I was actually hearing(nor do I wish to recreate the noises by testing the electric start). Additional info... I had the clutch basket(which is attached to the gear that is engaged by the kick start) and inner clutch cover removed about 2 weeks ago to replace the shift lever shaft. This process included removing the kick start lever and the gear on the clutch basket, but not much else of the kick mechanism. I know I'm gonna have to open it up again but I just want to get an idea of what I should be looking for once the covers are off. I appreciate any wisdom you can share! Hoosleberg
  14. My 390 looked as though the shift shaft was leaking oil after a couple hours of riding. The shifter got stuck in the downward position and was unable to move or come up. After taking out the screw that threads through the middle of the shift shaft, then putting it back in, i was able to shift fine. I will be checking tonight if the splines on the shift shaft are worn down. Has anyone had this issue before?
  15. Does anyone know how to, or if you can, change your AMA number? The race number, not the full thing.
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