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Found 61 results

  1. I've got a '72 TC90 I just picked up. I'm trying to get it running again. Just rebuilt the carb and I'm following the manual for the stock settings and ran into a perplexing adjustment... Under the initial idle settings it says: "At full throttle adjust play in the throttle cables to 0.5mm-1.0mm with the throttle cable adjuster at the top of the carburetor." I've been looking at this for a good hour now and I can't figure out what the hell that means. The grip will twist until the slide hits the top of it's travel...which is always what I've called full throttle. If you're holding it at full throttle then there's no way to add play into the cable...because you're holding it at full throttle, i.e. at it's full travel. Am I missing something really basic here?
  2. I have a Honda crf50f and its been sitting for 6 years. I just got a new carburetor and it's now running, only 1 problem. It wont idle when the choke is on or up position, it will only idle if choke is in the down or off position. Any help on what it could be? Thanks.
  3. Hi i’ve just bought a CRF150R 2008, and the bike wont idle. When i got there he was having trouble getting it to idle. Anyway i went on it but he said i had to keep on revving it in order for it to stay alive. It was fine didn’t fully open it up so couldn’t identify any other isues but i did give it some throttle but seemed fine. So i bought it and got it home and still my self cant get it to idle. Everytime i start it it will start up and just die, and then when i go to give it throttle it just bogs out. Only the occasional time it will start up and i can keep it going but it will eventually die. So the guy said you have to ‘prime’ it twice before you start it so i do that and it start up a bit longer and dies and then i go to go give it throttle and it bogs out no matter what. So then i put the choke on starts right up but idles high but then as soon as i take it of choke it dies and then i go to give it throttle and it bogs out. Then only way to keep it going is to choke it and then hold the rev and turn choke off and just keep revving it like i did when i first went on it at the guys house. I’ve looked at some suggestions on Youtube and the internet and i can’t find much, people were just saying it could be a clogged pilot jet or needing a need a new pilot jet or to change it or the air/fuel mixture screw, but the problem is i cant find it and i wouldent know how far to turn it out nor how to know what pilot jet size to get. So i was just wondering if anyone out there could help me fix this ASAP. Not really looking to do to much maintenance as i dont wanna break anything before ive properly riden it. Thanks Joe
  4. So I picked up a pretty beat up 2013 gas gas txt 300 raga replica on Craigslist. It had a lot broken on it but ran, although very rich. It has a Keihin carb. I confused the idle screw and the air fuel screw, and turned the idle screw a few times counter clockwise to try and lean it up. I realized the error, but lost track of how many times I turned the idle screw when I tried to put it back where it was. The air fuel mix was at half turn, so I turned it to 1.5 out which is the default, but the idle is still hanging really high and the idle screw doesn’t seem to have much effect. I don’t really know what to do, is there a default idle rpm or position for the idle adjust? Could something have gotten stuck when I turned the idle adjust? Any help would be great!
  5. I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
  6. Mark Woodby

    Proper idle

    How do I know my dirtbike is idling at the proper RPMs?
  7. I recently picked up a 2004 cr85 with a fresh top end, v force reed petals, new crankshaft, and full gasket kit. I just installed a new air filter aswell. The bike seems to be in good running condition except for the fact that when it idles it will idle very high, but rarely it will idle normally by itself but usually i will have to let out the clutch slowly untill it almost dies then pull it back in quick then it will idle fine untill i hit the throttle again. Anybody know what the issue is??? Thanks
  8. Hey everyone, My Idle screw is completely stuck inside the Idle screw hole, The head is completely stripped and I've tried pliers, still wont budge, any ideas?
  9. I’ll try and keep this simple not drawn out, it’s a KTM, 2014 300xc. It idles great when you start it bud if you rev it up it takes it a while to decrease back down to idle. (1-2 sec) when you put it in gear the bike runs as should. Except when I pull in the clutch the revs increase so much it’s hard to shift into gear. (If im standing still) same if I’m riding and I want to pause and take a break, I pull in the clutch and it revs to the moon. It has a recluse clutch in it.
  10. Bike was sitting for a winter before I bought it from my mom. She was the second owner. Was leaking fuel from around petcock, replaced it. Bike now wont idle unless choke is on. It also won't say up to speed upon riding. Took full carb apart and cleaned it. My dad is saying simple float kit for the carb, he says the float is getting stuck and it's dying for fuel. Someone else (the car mechanic that I work with that has worked on his own bike) says it sounds like a accelerator pump. Opinions?
  11. I have a 2018 fe 501. I just installed a JD Tuner on it. I noticed now that when I am idling with the clutch in, if I blip the throttle quickly the bike will quickly die. It seems to run good otherwise. It’s just blipping the throttle at idle. I turned all the settings to “stock” (all 3 across the board) and it still does it, although it is harder to make do it then it did on the “off-road” settings. What gives? Any ideas?
  12. Needing some help after the athena bbk install. Athena 434,TT fcrmx39,3x3,full fmf, e cams, single layer base gasket. Jetting JD: Main 155 Pilot 45 Paj 100 (removed) Main aj 200 Emn 3rd clip or JD. No idle difference (expected) Af screw 2 turns Checked for head and jug leaks, vacuum etc all fine. New carb ran all season and has been cleaned again. So it starts fine, no bog misfire popping etc. Will not idle below 2500-3000 rpm. I've tried 42 and 45 Pilot with and without paj. All vacuum and boots reset several times. I've read every forum post and fcrmx tuning I can find. I'm on day 3 and out of ideas and super frustrated. If I set idle around 2500+ it will run anything less regardless of jetting and between 1.5 - 2.5 af screw turns out it just shuts off like I hit the kill switch. Even around 2300-2500 it will only run for a minute then just turn off. Plug looks rich but hard to be sure because it's on the stand I can't put it under load to get a real plug reading. I'm out of ideas.
  13. Hey all - hoping you can help me with this. I've got a 1974 f7 175 and I'm having issues getting it to run properly. Cleaned the carb out twice at this point, new choke plunger and carb cover gasket. I finally got the thing to idle without any choke after it warms up, but now the thing lags on the throttle. When I rev it up it stays up for awhile after I let the throttle return Is this an air intake leak? Any idea where I would look? I've heard about the crankcase seal and haven't checked it yet. Is there a way to test if that seal has failed before I pull it? Video of bike idling here https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=31&v=W5-U92O0n5k
  14. Finally getting this 05 KX250F up and running. It's kicking over (most times) fairly quickly. However, when it gets going it's Idling at what seems to me to be high or will die out if I start adjusting the idle adjustment. I've done the recommended jetting from 40 to 42. My question is, I know where to start the air/fuel screw but when trying to find to sweet spot for idle where do you start with the idle screw and how do you work back and forth to find a nice idle? TIA
  15. 2015 CRF 450R. 70~ hours did a top end and now it wont idle. After installing the top end and riding bike it wont idle once hot. I can set the idle cold to about where i want it but once i give it gas and its warm it either idles at 3k rpm or dies. WHen i say dies as soon as the throttle is not open the bike goes->0. Even when its cold and you give it throttle it almost hangs at 3k then settles to 2k but once fully warmed it dies. I have cleaned everything in addition to the steps below. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as im without a bike and losing hair over this. It seems electrical as i didnt notice that much of a power loss I have tried: remapped it all sorts of different ways, swapped throttle body from buddys bike that runs(TPS, injector, idle sensor, idle adjuster), checked all sensor and cleaned them, put buddys fuel tank on ( filter, pump etc), gas is not old, checked timing chain alignment( although the factory lines on the cam shaft are not perfect i believe with 98% certainty the cam is aligned properly) , air filters clean, no tlow on anti freeze, IAC sensor changed, sorry if this is in the wrong section, just trying to get some help
  16. the bike starts kindof hard you have to give it a good kick and more than a little throttle. It will not idle and smokes like crazy like it way rich it blubbers and stall and hesitates at low RPM but it clean out in second and third gear then runs great. 1992 RM 250, good compression, good spark. cleaned the carb 4 times - I am sure its good - stock jetting - stock needle center clip, 40 pilot, 370 main, Air screw at 1-1/2 out Timing is on the factory marks exhaust valve 1 turn clockwise, its clean and free moving. Reeds good, very slight air gap at the edge, but very slight. no air filter is on right now gas is older but still smells good - not old smelling the pipe is light and does not seem to have any buildup or blockage ports were polished but not ported you can see the original cast marks at the port edges. so recap on the 5 essentials spark = good fuel = good, air = good timing = good compression = good Carb / Jetting stock and clean HELP!
  17. Long story short, I had to remove the cylinder twice last month on my 2003 kx 250 to work on the KIPs, and it was my first time going that far into working on my bike, I believe I did everything correctly, only issue is that after running the bike really hard (wide open hill climbs) the bike slows to an idle then "surges". Not quite sure how to explain it but each "pop" of the idle is drug out much longer than usual. It runs fine on the low end but I'm scared to ride it hard because I know from previous experience that running lean can result in a blown engine, another long story. But anyways, the bikes jetting was done by a mechanic a while ago and it ran perfectly fine in that sense prior to me taking it apart to work on the power valve. If you need to hear what I'm trying to explain, here's a link to one of my videos I posted where you can see the hills and hear the idle that im talking about. Skip to 1:40 and you can hear it as I sit at the top of the hill. I dont think it is the jetting, so I have researched that air getting into the engine in between the carb and cylinder could be the issue (gasket?) I dont really have any other idea or what gasket or anything, Any help would be great, I dont really want to take the cylinder off again, it could be something completely different than the lean mixture I am suspecting thanks!
  18. Hi guys, I have EC 250 2008 racing and I have kind of rattle when idling and sticking idle. I set my mixture screw 1,5 turn out from fully closed and idle screw a lot in. Bike idles really fine no matter if cold or hot, but when I blip the throttle idle sticks higher and remains until I put gear and loose the clutch a bit or plug exhaust with my hand, than idle is back at normal speed. Can it be because air leak? I have sprayed chain lube on carb manifold and no change, so there is no leak, but maybe crankshaft seal?? Although I have rattle on idle that I think is normal for 2T but maybe not. I have very similar rattle on Husqvarna WR 125 which is after engine rebuild. Is it normal or not? Maybe rattle from reeds? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIytJVgRp44
  19. Hello all, I am having an issue with a 2006 Honda CRF50 and looking for general guidance for troubleshooting tips. The problem I have is the bike will only run when the choke is on. I can turn it almost 98% of the way to off and it will run on idle. When I push the choke to the full off it will die. I have cleaned the carb like it was in a Hospital Clean room and YES the pilot jet is open and clean. The card has been dipped in carb cleaner for 3 days also. As I said the bike will run on choke and if I raise the throttle to a high rpm and turn the choke off the bike will start to bog down and die. I thought that by getting the RPM's up I could tell if the bike would run fine of the main jet. But seeing that it will not run with high rpm running off the main I think I have another problem other than the pilot jet. Does any one have any sound advise as to what to check next and maybe even help explain why it would act this way i.e. vacum leak, too little fuel, too much air, etc. I want to understand what causes the symphony to be a better mechanic. Here is a video of it idling on choke and what it does when I turn the choke off. Notice how little choke is actually on when it runs and just moving the choke lever that last little bit makes the engine die. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4XB9FK7qnI&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share
  20. I recently picked up a 2001 cr85 from a guy who raced it for about a year. He mentioned that he apparently had it on "race carb settings" and that the idle could be easily changed with the idle screw. So I brought it home and tried messing with both the air screw and the idle screw but nothing seemed to work. I have to constantly keep the revs up for it to not die. I took apart the carb and made sure the jets weren't clogged, which they didn't seem to be. The guy said that he's never had problems with reverting the idle back to normal, so I'm not really sure what's going on. The idle screw seems to have no effect at all on the idle speed. I have messed with the air screw aswell but that doesn't seem to be helping with the idle either. I haven't checked the plug yet. The bike runs and rides fine other than the idle. Maybe it could be that the idle screw isn't making contact with the throttle needle?? Any suggestions?
  21. I went with a friend of mine to look at and ultimately purchase a used 2007 CRF50 last week. While originally checking it out, I noticed that the idle would hang a bit after letting off the throttle (basically after the throttle is open and then closed, the engine will stay at a high RPM and not settle back down to normal idle for different amounts of times - sometimes just a few moments, other times up to 8-10 seconds), I figured it would be something minor like the throttle cable or gummed up carb, so I told him it was good and he bought it. I took it to my house to go over it and see if I could figure the issue out, but have been unsuccessful. I changed the oil, spark plug and filter (the filter and interior of the air box were pretty sopping wet with oil when I first opened it up). I also took the carb apart and rebuilt it fully with an all balls kit. None of this changed the mannerisms that I described above. I checked the cable and it seems fine, I also could actually see the slide opening and closing with the throttle tube in the carb. I've been told that this issue might be due to an air leak after the carb. I sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake in an attempt to find a leak, but I wasn't sure if I did. There were a few times that I sprayed and the idle hopped up, other times it didn't. I did set the fuel/air screw and idle screw at the factory setting after the rebuild as well. I feel bad because I went to look at the bike with my buddy and told him it was good, and now I can't get it straightened out for him. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. I can give a better description or put a video up of it if that would help. Thanks!
  22. Hey guys. I am totally new to this forum and to the world of motorcycles (well I've ridden them but never worked on them). I have seen a few similar problems in other threads however I am what you could call mechanical un-inclined. So basically I could understand most of the reply's. So if anyone has a ultra baby step solution to this problem I would be greatly appreciative. Okay so here's the deal. I just bought (yesterday) a 1997 Suzuki DR200 that I planned on using as a get around town and exploring bike as a pretty beginner rider. When I bought it it ran great. When I got it home yesterday it ran just fine. When I tried to start it this morning it wouldn't go. It was turning over but not firing. So I pushed it down the street to a friends house who is pretty good with bikes. I live on a hill so on the way down I was able to bump start it and it ran perfect until I got to his driveway and stopped then it stalled. So we took the Carb off and cleaned the jets and put it back on and it started right up. I took if down the road and back and noticed it idled to low so it would stall if you didn't give it throttle. We turned the idle up but then it was so high that it would basically keep going in second gear with no throttle added. So we turned it back down but once again it died. This time it would not start and we killed the battery. We tried several times to bump start it with no positive results. So we pushed it up the hill and on the fourth try it worked and proceeded to bump start every time after than. But the problem still remained. We drove around and got the battery back to where we could start it with the electric start but it still wouldn't idle. And now it seems like it takes forever to come down to idle, like I will release the throttle and it will keep on going. I am at a complete loss as I have no clue how to work on bikes. Heck I don't even know what half the parts are used for or called when I see them in other posts. Basically can someone explain this so an idiot like me can understand? Also I see that there is a place labeled kick starter but no kick starter. That would sure be nice to have. It there any way that one can be added? Really any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton.
  23. Hey all, new to the site. Looking forward to getting a better understanding of my 95’ XR600R. Its street legal and I plan on using it to commute and also ride all around. Camping etc. its running strong. But seems to have a few common problems I’ve been reading on the forum here. Like the hanging high idle. Possibly the old carb but I did order a new intake boot because it was slathered in rvt. lol Little noisy in the valve cover. Probably cause its running hot and I imagine the tensioner needs replaced. Also have some leaks around the lower cases appears to be vent line on the right side. Good news is I pulled the plug and its burning tan. Doesn’t seem to lean to I think its a idle problem and not an air leak: I plan on pulling the engine this winter. To address these issues and clean the bike and repaint the frame and engine. The xr has acerbis headlight and plastic. The headlight is a bit of a joke. I’m looking to replace it with an led of some sort. Even if I have to retro fit another type of led bar. Any ideas or links to prior post would be awesome if you are follow something similar. Thanks
  24. I have a 2018 Fe 501 with only about 60 Miles on it. I noticed today that at idle, if I blip the throttle quickly and then let off the engine will either bog down or die completely. I thought it may be related to the JD tuner I had just installed last night, but I unplugged the tuner and it is still doing it. Has anyone else had this issue? Please help!
  25. I have a 2004 YZ250f. It has been running completely fine until one day it started high idling when in gear and has been very difficult to start when hot. I went through the carb and cleaned everything out very well, but in the process i lost the original setting on my fuel screw. So i bought the Tusk adjustable extended fuel screw and have been playing around with it and the idle adjustment to find the right balance, but with only a little luck. I can get it to idle right, but after riding for 30 minutes or so it starts to run like crap again. Basically, bike runs fine for a little riding then i turn it off on the trail and go to kick it again and it wont idle right. Gotta start the whole process over again to get it to idle. The idle is very inconsistent, one moment its right, the next it's not. Also now i have to give it a fair amount of throttle to start when its hot. This is the first 4 stroke I have owned so I am a beginner as far as this stuff goes. Any help would be appreciated.
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